Exhale on the Water

Born and raised in Long Beach, CA, Piper has been on the water most of her life.

Frankfort

The quaint little town of Frankfort was full of delightful surprises, well worth the stop!

We reunited with Gypsy for a delicious impromptu barbeque.  The best kind.

Another delightful surprise, a nice small world moment – Hello Carrie!

At the local grocery store, Rick realized he knew the lovely woman in front of him. Carrie Hessler-Radelet and her husband (Rick and Carrie met in California, of course), live in small town Frankfort during the summer.  Carrie’s father and two wonderful Michigan friends joined us on board Exhale for a relaxing glass of wine.

Manistee

The public docks are under renovation, after an aggressive storm surge. The marina building was spectacular, and the staff was delightful.

Crew Change – Introducing Matt & Piper

Matt and Piper Jackson joined us on Exhale in Manistee. By the way, we definitely missed you, Michele.

Piper and Maddie grew up together in California, and are very similar in age (Piper is 10).  Piper swims competitively, sails (solo) better than most men, and is a trained youth lifeguard.

Ludington

Matt, Piper, Capt. Rick and Maddie ran the boat from Manistee to Ludington (roughly 3.5 hours) while I got to drive Matt’s rental car along the country roads of Michigan.  Matt and Piper did a GREAT job without me on board :-)

Ludington is home to S.S. Badger, the last coal-fired passenger steamship in operation in the United States.  If you want to learn more click here. 

It’s also home to Brenda’s Harbor Cafe. Adnerb, is this part of your retirement plan?

Pentwater

Well versed in nautical lingo, from Ludington to Pentwater (roughly 2 hours) Piper adeptly set the lines, handled the fenders, and kept the captain well informed as we were docking.

Pentwater Yacht Club

Piper made herself very comfortable, hanging out at the yacht club.

Piper was the first to spot the familiar Long Beach Yacht Club burgee (Jacksons and grandparents Barry and Kathy May are longtime members).

And it was our first Burgee Exchange (Southwest Florida Yacht Club and PYC).  We miss you, Commodore Ron Austin!

Thanks for visiting, Matt and Piper

It was sad to see Matt and Piper drive away.  We heard she played the ukulele – pretty much nonstop – on their 4-hour drive to Chicago :-).  It turns out Piper is a VERY talented actress and musician, with an uncanny ability to recite LONG excerpts from Hamilton. It was very impressive.  We hope you come back again soon. Next time, bring mom and the grandparents!  

Pentwater to Grandhaven

After closely monitoring the weather for days, it appeared there was a break in the storm. Only after Peter and Rick rode out into the swells in a dinghy to check on the sea conditions, we agreed to leave the dock with Peter and Jeannie on Tortuga, with an expectation that the water could be a little rough, but knowing it would be worse the following day.

Departing Pentwater at 12:30 pm, unusually late for us, once we got away from the shore we had 42 miles of 2-3 foot following seas (think of it as a gentle push).  What a pleasant surprise.  Inspired by our discovery of calm waters, Gypsy and Miss Hattie braved the journey as well.  We arrived in Grand Haven around 7 pm, enough time to enjoy the sunset and a delightful evening cocktail with Lenore and Bob from Miss Hattie.

Grand Haven to Holland – No Photos, Please.

Let’s just get it out there, I wasn’t mad, I was just plain scared.  For me, the run from Grand Haven to Holland was my all-time worst 2 and a half hours on the water this year.  Rick said the waters might be a little rough, but we also knew it was a relatively short trip (only 12 miles). And, based on the previous day, I thought the waters would calm down, more or less. I was wrong. 

When the beam seas (water aggressively slamming you from the side of the boat) kicked in, the boat rocked enough that I put on a life jacket.  My mind was racing with fear, imagining how we might capsize.  When Rick realized the dog was shaking, and saw that tears were rolling down my face, he offered to go back.  Fear is irrational and hard to shake, but I trust Rick, and I knew the best answer was to proceed.  Of course, we all made it safe and sound, albeit a little rattled.

Holland

It was really exciting to visit De Zwaan – Dutch for the swan. The last windmill to leave the Netherlands, it’s still an active grain mill, grinding roughly 12,000 pounds of locally grown corn and wheat every year.  To learn more click here.  The miller is Ms. Alisa Crawford.

We enjoyed walking the grounds of Windmill Island Gardens, Holland MI.

Saugatuck

We left Exhale docked in Holland and took a short vespa ride (~ 8 miles) to reunite with Bruce and Beverly Peck, Sea Trek (they said hi, Craig!)

Vespa Ride

We don’t use the Vespa often enough.  Even in a light rain, what a great way to visit nearby communities, especially when there is no Uber or Lyft nearby!

Happy Birthday Alisha, Happy Anniversary Danielle and Sandra

Next Stops: Southeast Lake Michigan

Following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, we are slowly headed to the Illinois River. So far, in Michigan, we have stopped in DeTour Village, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Ludington, Pentwater, Grand Haven, and Holland (with a side trip to Saugatuck on the Vespa).  Next up: South Haven, or thereabouts.

Next Guests – Not sure :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

The magnificent splendor of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island makes you feel as if you have stepped back, somewhere in time …

Blue Waters of Michigan

You asked – “how blue are the waters, really?”  Well, Susie Q – the waters are sooo blue you can see the marina boulders, more than 15 feet down!

St. Ignace

Mike & Sue Gillespie drove from Cleveland to northern Michigan, joining us in Upper Peninsula (called Yooper). On their first night aboard, the sunset at St. Ignace was breathtaking.

Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox

One of my favorite childhood stories was the tall tale of Paul Bunyan a giant lumberjack with superhuman strength. Big as a mountain and strong as a grizzly bear… his trusty companion was a legendary blue ox. His likeness is displayed in several statues across North America, including this one in Michigan.^[7][8]

There are multiple Paul Bunyan statues in Michigan, for more info click here.

Mackinac Island

You can only get to Mackinac (pronounced Mac-in-aw) by water or air.  When you arrive you feel like you stepped back in time.

Thanks for the private cruise from St. Ignace to Mackinaw aboard Gypsy!

Grand Hotel

If you are looking for a decadent wedding destination: Grand Hotel (click here)

We will never forget the spectacular views from a rocking chair overlooking the Straits of Mackinac, from the world’s longest porch.

Somewhere in Time

Grand Hotel is rich in history, a place where time moves slowly.  The perfect setting for a favorite romantic classic starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour, “Somewhere in Time”. 

Happy Anniversary Mike & Sue – 33 and still counting.

To celebrate – we watched Somewhere in Time (of course you can buy the movie in the gift shop!!).  Actually, Sue and I watched the movie, Rick and Mike went to bed early.

Mackinac Straits Bridge

Petoskey

It was a privilege to spend time with Tom & Nancy Rea (captains of Meanders), who live in Petoskey. Thanks again for introducing us to Charlevoix, where we joined Don & Barb Cavin (Cavara) for dinner, celebrating Barb’s birthday.

Charlevoix

Although mushroom house architecture didn’t really “catch on”, it is a fun vacation concept. If you are looking for a unique rental opportunity, click here. Over the course of his fifty-year career, Architect Earl Young designed twenty-six residential houses and four commercial properties. His works are made mostly of stone, using limestone, fieldstone, and boulders that he found throughout Northern Michigan

Leland

Leland, MI is a quaint little town reknowned for it’s smoked fish.

Next Stops: More of Lake Michigan

Exhale will continue to traverse south, following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, heading to the Illinois River. So far we have stopped in Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix and Leland.  Next up: Frankfort and Manistee. After that, only Mother Nature really knows.

Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

We finished the North Channel this week with our buddy boat, Gypsy.  Still following the itinerary from Robin (Queen’s Cove Marina), together we found a secluded anchorage in the Benjamins.

Anchored in the Benjamins – Crocker Island

Anchoring and Rafting Off

Once we agreed on a gunk hole (anchoring spot) Exhale dropped her anchor. With fenders in place, Gypsy scooted in close, and tied off.

It seems like we are a little close to the rocks, right?!?  But the Captain was confident in water deeper than 10 feet and no wave action.

The Merritts suggested we leave the Mother Ship (Exhale) to “hold our place” at the rocks, and took the Super Shuttle (Gypsy) to tour the Benjamins, anchor out, and eat a little picnic lunch.  What a treat!

Weathered in – or not?

The rain came and went.  Just another free boat wash.

Gore Bay

This sleepy little town is in Lake Huron’s north channel. Quick Facts from Wikipedia: Population 816.  Average age, 56. 

We joined up with Houlegan, again in Gore Bay, home of the Split Rail Brewery. The marine forecast was thunder, lightning, and choppy waters. The captains agreed it was likely we would be in Gore Bay for two or more days, until the weather cleared.

We heard the rain and thunder in the darkest hours of the evening. Awoken to a quiet calm around 6 am, Captain Rick checked the forecast again.  Waves of three to four – inches.  What?!?  Rise and shine everyone, Gypsy and Exhale are going, going, going!

Mother Nature cut us some slack as we enjoyed 9 solid hours of smooth waters. Unsure how long the weather would hold, we skipped Meldrum (the “planned” final stop in Canada), opting to clear US Customs a day early.

Smooth Waters

The water was soooo smooth the Captain and his dog took a little snooze.

What a view!  Perfect weather, perfect water.

Crossing the Invisible Line – did you see that?

For all the football fans out there, we thought you might appreciate a super-imposed 10-yard line, I mean border crossing line, as Gypsy and Exhale said goodbye to Canada and hello to USA.

Exhale was in Canada for sixty days.  The time seemed to pass very quickly. In many ways it reminds me of the summers in Alaska, where you can spend the season in pristine country, with a new adventure everyday, knowing there is sooooo much more to explore. Captain and crew (including short-term swabbies) agreed, the journey was splendiferous – definitely worth repeating.  Au revoir beautiful Canada, until we meet again!

Clearing Customs – Embracing Technology

Thanks to the new Reporting Off-shore Arrival Mobile app, clearing customs was fast, and smooth. Launched in 2018, the ROAM app allows small boaters the flexibility of reporting their arrival into the U.S. from any location! Apple and Android friendly, enter your passport and travel data in the app, submit, and then “video-chat” via your smart phone or iPad with a friendly customs agent.  It was super easy.  To learn more click here. 

De Tour Village, Michigan

We officially re-entered the US with Gypsy at this gorgeous new marina.  For those of you still looping on the water, we strongly recommend this port of entry.  It’s a friendly town, with good local food (hooray for US Beef) within easy walking distance.

You were right, Gonzo, the waters of Michigan are really blue! Now I know why the University of Michigan chant is “Go, Blue!” If you want to learn more about the winning Wolverines, click here.  Go Blue!

 

Next Stop:

Lake Michigan – Grandpa Says, “Go Blue!”

Mike & Sue Gillespie – see you in Mackinac Island.  Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Windswept trees, with branches permanently pointing south, stand as a reminder that weather conditions can be harsh. A stark contrast to the calm, blue waters.

Wright’s Marina

Wright’s Marina took great pride in their landscaping.

Parry Sound Fire

The fires in Ontario covered 11,000 hectares (a metric unit of square measure, equal to 100 ares (2.471 acres or 10,000 square meters).  We planned our route carefully to avoid the fires, omitting stops in the Bustards, among others.

Beaverstone Bay – Collins Inlet

Along with Gypsy, we found a perfect anchorage in Collins inlet, which included another delicious meal prepared by Rick and Jim on the boat.  Yummy Fresh Fish!

Red Sky at Night, Sailors Delight

The rest of the saying goes, “red sky at morning, sailors take warning.”

The distant fires caused a spectacular sunset

Our careful planning was foiled by Mother Nature, again. The winds shifted while we were sleeping, and we awoke to the smell of heavy smoke.  Don’t be fooled by this photo, the boat was NOT surrounded by fog.  Photo by Gypsy

Killarney

Killarney was a popular refuge from the fires, including a rendezvous of boaters from Gross Point Yacht Club, that made Exhale look like a toy boat.

What a magical little place to watch float planes come and go.  We loved the strategically placed red chairs at the end of every finger pier – a great little place to enjoy a nice glass of wine on the dock

Dinner with Friends

Possibly one of the best meals we have eaten on this journey was at the Mountain Lodge in Killarney.  Thanks, Gypsy captains Susan and Jim Merritt, for an amazing evening.

Shelter in a a Storm

While we were out and about, there was yet another flash thunder storm.  It turns out, Maddie is very resourceful when it comes to seeking shelter. She successfully moved her little bed from the side cabin into the hallway – logically the most protected area of the boat!

A fabulous dinghy ride

Exhale spent a second night in Killarney, a three-mile dinghy ride from Covered Portage, where Gypsy was anchored out.

Otters, ooooh so cute …

We watched a pair of happy-go-lucky otters playing in the water nearby, wishing they would get close enough for a clear photo.  An ominous growling noise meant not one, but, two otters were climbing onto our dingy.  When one of them slid onto Gypsy’s swim platform, bearing snarling teeth, my thought was “danger, danger, Will Robinson.”  Well, at least the fat critter brought his own dinner.

Baie Fine (Gaelic translation “a fine bay”) 

Traveling with Gyspy, we anchored out at Baie Fine, then hiked back to Topaz Lake. Thanks for pushing us Jim and Susan, it was well worth the climb.

Rick finally tried out the homemade bobber action, to neatly mark the location of our anchor.

Anchoring Challenges

Anchoring in Florida is predictable – sand and more sand.  In Canada, sometimes it’s mud, sometimes it’s rocks, and sometimes, well, it’s something else.  As we pulled up the anchor, look what came with it!

Little Current

Our visit to the marina at Little Current coincided with the annual Haw-eater Festival, highlights included antique cars (this GTO is for my Bear-Bear) and a parade that lasted roughly 12 minutes, well, maybe slightly longer.  My favorite was the excuse to sample yet another delicious craft beer. Loved this Split Rail Hawberry Ale (yep, another red).

Hello, again, Hawaiian Shirts

Reunited with Houlegan, again, we watched the fireworks on Civics Day.

Found: One Elusive Unicorn.  This is for Rick.

ANOTHER MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: Thanks to those of you who reached out this week (especially Craig). You are right, the blog postings have been rather irregular.  As we journeyed the north channel of Georgian Bay we were completely out of range, for multiple days. Ah, yes, it is good to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Finishing up the North Channel, Clearing Customs, then on to Michigan – Go Blue!

See you real soon, Mike & Susie :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

With the repairs all finished, and fresh provisions, “it’s good to be back on the boat”, said Maddie.

Thank you, one and all, at Queen’s Cove Marina in Victoria Harbour, Ontario for the exceptional service.  We were very excited to see Exhale gently lowered back into the water! Without a doubt, Robin and her team are beyond compare. Thanks, Robin, for the amazing lesson on the navigational routes along the Georgian Bay. We now have an exciting route mapped out for the northern channel – subject to weather, of course.

Penetanguishene with Houlegan, again.

It was a pleasure to begin our Georgian Bay travels with our good friends, Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, Houlegan, again.  Our first stop is known locally as “P’tang” (cuz Penetanguishene is waaay too hard to say). Caught in very heavy rains, we found refuge at the historic Discovery Harbour.  Fun times!

Discovery Harbour

When it rains, find a museum, or a pub, or both.  We opted for Discovery Harbour.  We got drenched by the rain, but it was in the midst of good company.

Discovery Harbour traces its roots back to the original British naval and military base in Penetanguishene, built to safeguard access to Upper Canada after the War of 1812. To learn more click here.

While Houlegan, again is on a brief solo expedition via the southern route of Georgian Bay (those guys are rebels, you know), we moved on to the northern route.

Henry’s Fish Camp

A popular spot in Georgian Bay, we found over a dozen looper boats at Henry’s.

At Henry’s Fish Camp we docked again with Gypsy. Fellow loopers Miss Norma, Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away joined us for picnic table ‘tails.

Parry Sound

The Georgian Bay is absolutely spectacular!  Bucket List Item in Progress.

In Parry Sound we docked with Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away.

Canada Model A’s on Tour

What a treat to see twenty-six Model A’s parked at our dock!

Anchored out in Tiny

Traveling with Gypsy, we anchored out in Hopewell Bay (did we mention, Jim Merritt took a very brief break in Queen’s Cove for a root canal – oooowwww)

Small Craft Advisory

When the weather gets rough – stop, stop, stop.  Thanks to Captain Rick and Jim, they did not hesitate to find a safe little cove for us to take refuge when the water got really choppy.  With a little help from the Nebo app, we found more loopers in the cove (hello again Viridian and Dash Away).  A spontaneous dinner aboard Gypsy was an unexpected bonus.

Hang Dog – Alexander Bay

Another “first experience”. In a small protected cove, Exhale dropped her anchor, then Gypsy rafted off (tied herself to Exhale). The stern of the boat was snuggly secured to a tree about 150 feet away.  With zero risk of swinging towards the rocks, we all enjoyed a VERY peaceful evening!

Signs along the way – “Safe Passage”, or, “Rum found here”

Brilliant advertising for the local pub at the next port? You decide.

A MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: We are sorry the blog postings have been rather irregular.  Unfortunately, (or perhaps we mean fortunately), cellular service and wi-fi connections continue to be hit or miss on this great boat trip. Although a tremendous inconvenience and source of frustration when we need to meet a deadline for WORK, most of the time we are just forced to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Enjoying Georgian Bay, with no pre-scheduled stops.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Tyler’s favorite book is “Go Dog, Go!“, written and illustrated by P.D. Eastman.  One thing for sure, the author fully tapped into the energy of a two-year old – like the dog in the 1961 classic child’s story, Tyler likes to go, go, go!

What do you love to eat when you are two? Pasta, hashbrowns and peanut butter – especially if you can double fist it!

Graham grackers taste better one nibble at a time.  Equality is key – all four corners are gone!

Lions and Basketballs!

Do you want some milk with your coffee, Papa?

 

This fashion statement is beyond comment …  thanks for the hat, Uncle Scott.

Thanks Aunt Cindy and Uncle Scott for a fun day swimming, and for letting Maddie stay at your house!

It was also great seeing Mike and Sue Gillespie for a relaxing day at their pool, with Scott and Cindy.  Thanks for the pizza and libations. Looking forward to seeing you guys on the water!

Jamie and David‘s return flight to Cleveland was cancelled, delaying their return by roughly 24 hours. Meanwhile Nona and Grandpa Dan got another chance to play with Tyler! Thanks again, Dan & Rita (Tyler’s other grandparents) for spoiling us.  Without a doubt, the VERY BEST bagels on the planet are made by D & R Bagels, click here for their website.

Cleveland to Queen’s Cove, Ontario Canada ~ 350 miles

Before driving back to Canada, WWRD?? Stock up with groceries from Costco. After 8 full days in Cleveland, Maddie was one exhausted dog.

Repairs in Progress – Reunited with Friends

While we were in Cleveland, Trevor helped expedite the imported parts from China (Thanks so much, Trevor!), the prop was re-shaped, the custom nuts arrived, and now we are crossing our fingers the repairs will be completed by the Marina on Monday (tomorrow) so we can get back on the water …

Meanwhile we are thrilled to be reunited with our friends Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, Houlegan Again.

Cheers everyone, the Georgian Bay awaits.

 

A Damaged Prop

Perhaps you already heard the Captain successfully “reshaped” the prop back in Merrickville. Details remain a little foggy, something about an early morning departure, a navigational beacon, and a bed of rocks that was not at all like the sand in Florida, you get the idea.

You might be asking, to solve the problem, WWRD? Rick’s Answer: “if you travel slow”,  just how slow can this slow boat go ?? – “you won’t feel much vibration”. Meanwhile, Maureen and I cleaned the boat, again, to make sure nothing could wobble its way to the floors. The Plan: find a qualified mechanic to fix the boat, hopefully in Queens Cove.

Normally, one does not look forward to being elevated out of the water, with one very special exception – the Big Chute!

Lock 44 – The Big Chute Marine Railway

Under the masterful direction of the Parcs Canada lockmasters, up to 100 tons of watercraft, in various sizes and shapes, float onto an 80-foot wooden cradle.  Captain Rick says Exhale weighs 25 tons, more or less.

Once the flotilla is stabilized and secured, the passenger laden vessels are lifted out of the water and gradually elevated roughly 60 feet.

Via cables and dual railroad tracks, the railcar traverses dry land, then gently drops its cargo into the lake waters below.

To learn about the Big Chute, click here.

Hello Gypsy

We first saw Gypsy at Osprey Marina, early in March.

It was such a pleasure to reconnect with Jim and Susan Merritt, captains of Gypsy.  They seem to be testing capacity as it appears 8 or 10 guests joined them for the day long adventure on the Marine Railway. Thanks guys for the great photos from the Big Chute!

Good Bye Trent Severn Waterway

We waived goodbye to the TSWaterway as we completed Lock 45. To see the official Parks Canada photos of each lock (1 through 45), click here.

Port Severn, is the smallest lock on the waterway.

Lift: 3.7m Width: 7.0m Length: 25.6m

Hello Georgian Bay

While it was quite the adventure to complete all the locks in the Trent Severn, we were excited to see the majestic Georgian Bay.

First stop – Queens Cove Marina in Victoria Harbor.  The boat was lifted out of the water, again, this time to assess the extent of the prop damage.

So far, it appears the prop just needs to be reshaped by the local “black smith” equivalent. Crossing our fingers that is true.  

Murphy’s Law – we ordered another prop to be delivered soon, so there will be a spare part in stock, hopefully never to be used. BTW – the prop weighs about 400 lbs; it required a massive wrench, heat, and a cutting torch to be removed. Unfortunately, replacement bolts meant a special order from China … meanwhile, we are hanging out in Cleveland.

With the boat out of the water we embarked on a pre-scheduled side trip, traversing back to the USA, via New York’s Peace Bridge, destined to Cleveland, Ohio.

Yet Another Side Trip

A belated Happy Anniversary, Jamie and David, and a special Happy Birthday, Jamie.  It is a privilege to hangout with our grandson, Tyler, while you take a little break to a resort in Mexico.

Thanks Aunt Cindy and Uncle Scott for letting Maddie hang out with you in Cleveland, a welcome respite from the Energizer Bunny two year-old.

Next Stop:

Georgian Bay, with no pre-scheduled stops, for the very first time on our journey!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [April and July], Craig [April])

 

The Trent-Severn Waterway spans a distance of 240 miles, with 45 locks along the way.  Beginning in Trenton, Ontario (Lock 1), the waterway leads to Port Severn, the entrance to Georgian Bay. If you want to learn more about the canal, click here.

Let’s just say, it’s a lot easier to do those locks with Craig and Maureen onboard.

Reminiscent of one of my favorite childhood books, “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn“, this hearty little tree is made of stern stuff.

Trent – Celebrating Canada Day

We celebrated Canada Day (July 1) with Caryl, Ray (Houlegan again), Maureen & Craig.

Campbellford – the Red & White celebration continues

Yep, those refreshing drinks are red and white.  Do you know the secret ingredients?Thanks for taking this welcome photo, Maureen, you are right, the icons include martinis!

Signs along the way

It’s always fun to notice the customized signs along the way.

Peterborough – Wednesday Concert – The Trews

Summer concerts at the Peterborough Marina – on Wednesdays and Saturday – are free, attracting thousands of folks.  Upfront seats to a Canadian favorite, The Trews, the music was exceptional!  Check it out for yourself here.

Peterborough Lift Lock – 65 ft above the Trent Canal

Breath taking views.  Engineering at it’s finest.  Powered by gravity, the highest hydraulic lift lock in the world lifts two counter-balanced bathtub like chambers.

Buckhorn – Infamous, World Renowned

Words cannot adequately describe our adventures in Buckhorn.  Craig and Maureen were there.  That’s all you need to know. The night included campfire songs from Key Largo musicians, the Sunshine Band.

Ken and Carol Schryver, fellow Loopers from the Voyageur.

Fenelon Falls – Best Men

Somewhere, somehow, Exhale snagged a line. Retired Canadian firefighter, Rick (such a great name), from Knots Buoy, dove under the boat – reporting back a sturdy line was wrapped around the prop, about 8 times. When diver Rick couldn’t cut the line free, Captain Rick hailed a boat across the channel; successfully coaxing one of the able bodied young men to give us a hand. We later learned there were roughly twenty of them, headed to a Bachelor’s Party.

Mark, the “Best Man” from the Bachelor Party, dove, no less than 20 times, slowly cutting away the stubborn tangled line!  His reward, a Carbon by Design t-shirt (thanks, Dominick!), a random Florida hat that fellow boater Tania found, and ice cold beer!

Lock and Roll! BobCaygeon

When we reached the top of the lock, Craig and Maureen hopped out.  The lock attendants were amused as they realized our crew was jumping ship, it helped they brought minimal luggage … thanks for the memories guys – celebrating another fun filled Miami Vice holiday!

Next Stop:

STILL Navigating the Trent-Severn Waterway.  Coming Soon: side to visit Tyler!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

Canada Day is July 1.  Today we are in celebrating with Craig and Maureen in Trent, reunited with fellow Loopers HMS Vagabond, and Houlegan again. Surrounded  by Red and White, tonight there will be fireworks!

Fish on! Rick & Craig

Life is good when you are fishing! And there is nothing like a good old fashioned competition – especially when it’s the smallest fish that wins!

Changing Signs – when it is critical that you stay between the navigational beacons, we appreciated the reminder that the colors had changed, in other words it was NOT red right returning.

Rideau Canal

We continue to travel with Ray & Caryl, Houlegan Again, awesome boating buddies!

When Exhale finished the Rideau Canal we had completed 79 locks (Fort Myers, Florida through Kingston, Ontario).

Some of the locks reminded us of filling-up and draining a really really big  bathtub!

Smiths Falls – the walls of Smiths Falls were truly daunting!  

These bugs tried to hitch a ride, without permission, of course. They ended their journey in a unique, tidy pattern …

Pictures taken at sunrise by Rick, the happy early riser.

Next Stop:

Navigating the Trent-Severn Waterway with our most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen still on board! And, YES, Craig has been cooking us some splendid meals.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

 

Is it Ottawa or Awatto?

A palindrome reads the same way backwards or forwards (such as kayak, mom and pop); a reverse gram or a mirror word is the formation of a new word when you flip the order of the letters, like lap and pal. Although Awatto has a FaceBook page, it’s probably not a valid “word”.

Lock 13

Many of the canals in Canada allow a few transient boaters (usually about four, depending on size) to tie up on the wall near the locks.  Surrounded by a pristine view, Lock 13 was a restful haven.

Ottawa – Museum of Fine Art

The Spider Art at the entry of the Museum was daunting, now I know why Rick has a healthy fear of spiders, and he insists on bringing in the shoes every night!

 

It was a treat to see one of my favorite pieces from Van Gogh inside the Museum!

Chateau Montebello – celebrating Father’s Day

Thank you to Ray and Caryl for encouraging us to enjoy the Father’s Day brunch at the Fairmont Chateau Montebello.  In Rick’s opinion, the meal was ranked in the Top 3 brunches of all time, over the course of six decades (yep, he’s that old).

For all of you dad’s out there – hope you had a wonderful Father’s Day!

Canadian Museum of History

We highly recommend the Inuit Art Gallery – reportedly the largest totem pole collection in the world.

Rideau Canal

Ottawa marks the beginning of the Rideau Canal, a 125-mile canal system connecting natural lakes and rivers, in a combination of dams and locks, to Kingston. Completed in 1832, there are a total of 45 locks at 23 stations located along the canal, beginning with a stair step of 8 locks  to learn more click here.

In winter, a section of the Rideau Canal passing through central Ottawa becomes officially the world’s largest skating rink

Changing of the Guard and Parliament

At the top of the hour we heard the traditional bagpipes during the changing of the guard at the Memorial Park.

Hello Craig & Maureen!

Craig and Maureen joined us at Hurst Marina in Manotick (Ottawa), Ontario. Together we traveled to Merrickville, where Craig handled the locks like a pro, while Mo took over cookie duties (dock trash).

Thanks, Parc Canada – we are truly enjoying the journey in your canals.

Thanks Houlegan again for navigating, and traveling with us, you are the very best buddy boat!!  MOST OF ALL thanks for hanging out with MS in Ottawa while Rick made another side trip to LA.

Dogs of all Sizes love Ray!

Canadian Geese

We reported earlier about Coyote lawn art – these Canadian geese were not fooled.

Next Stop:

Heading towards Kingston along the Rideau Canal with our most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen! And, YES, they brought lots of fresh coffee beans.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontaria.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

 

The water was smooth as glass at daybreak (4:30 am).  We traveled from Saurel to Montreal with Houlegan again and Vagabond, leaving well before breakfast, again.

Friday Sand Bar

Perfect blue skies attracted countless small boats that were intentionally beached on a shoal; think of it as a local sand “bar.”

 

Montreal, the City of Mary (really!!)

Alongside Houlegan and Vagabond, we docked at the Old Port of Montreal, surrounded by a plethora of historic buildings dating back to the early 1400s.

Originally called Ville-Marie, or “City of Mary”, Montreal is named after Mount Royal, the triple-peaked hill in the heart of the city.  Archaeological evidence demonstrates that First Nations native people occupied the island of Montreal as early as 4,000 years ago.  To learn more, click here.

Playground – SOS Labyrinthe

More than just a zip line, next to the port was a popular entertainment venue that offers numerous ways to walk a tight rope.  No, thanks.

Historic Montreal

It was a spectacular weather day in Montreal, prompting us to walk over 15,000 steps :-)

Notre-Dame Basilica – La Basilique Notre-Dame

Saint Joseph’s Oratory

Gay Village Montreal

Hydro Dam, floating dock locks

Although this lock resembled a guillotine, there was a floating dock inside, perhaps making it the easiest lock we had experienced so far!

Quebec Scenery

The scenery in Quebec is pristine, at the least.

Canadian Rules – Rafting Off – Size Matters

To maximize the number of boats that lock through the Canadian commercial locks, larger boats tie off to the walls, and smaller boats raft off. Houlegan again was a pro!

Canada Transit – Cars, Boats & Trains

Transit in Canada is extremely efficient.  Notice two train tracks immediately above Vagabond in the locks!

Currents against, and in our favor – setting two speed records.  

When the current is pushing against the boat, at 2800 rpms her top speed was 1.76 knots – Yes, Trevor, that’s about 0.1 mpg.  After a u-turn the current was in our favor causing us to break a new speed record, running 15.3 knots at only 1200 rpms. WhooHoo!

Doggie Salon 

Maddie’s hair was getting a little wild and crazy until she spent the afternoon at the Spa Doggie Style in Gay Village, Montreal where a lovable French groomer successfully transformed her back to a little princess.

Next Stop:

Heading to Ottawa to pick up Exhales’ most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen! And, YES, they are bringing fresh coffee beans.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)

 

The northern end of the Hudson River is bordered by Vermont and New York. At Fort Henry, Dave Floyd noticed a hilltop cannon on the Vermont side – strategically pointing across the river …

Port Henry, New York was one of the cleanest marinas we have ever experienced.  The manager, Dave, even gave our Dave, #8, a ride to the train station so he could join up with a dear friend in New York, to enjoy the Big Apple for a few days before returning to Fort Myers.  Thanks again, #8 for spoiling us with your great cooking, again!!

Otter Creek

We took a breathtaking side trip along the windy and picturesque Otter Creek  – 7 nautical miles to Vergennes, VT.  The creek was bustling with life.

Purple martins on the hillside, surrounded by bird feeders.

These guys were getting ready to do some serious bbq action

Vergennes, VT

Docking at the City Wall meant 50w power, water and a short walk to the village, all for a small donation.  We will be back!!

 

 

Maddie was very happy to find a field of soft green grass

Otter Creek Falls – from Shipyard to Hydro Dam

Vergennes was settled in 1766; incorporated in 1788, it is the oldest city in Vermont. During the War of 1812, nine military boats were built in the Vergennes Shipyard, vital to the American victory over the British Royal Navy.   The fleet included the 26-gun Saratoga and the 17-gun schooner Ticonderoga. After the War, from 1815 until 1916, Lake Champlain Steamboat Company offered both passenger and freight service from Vergennes. Now the falls are the source of hydro power for the county.

Historic Vergennes

Vergennes was worth the detour; friendly folk, family owned boutiques, and great restaurants within easy walking distance.

Lake Champlain

Delighted to see deeper waters, we marveled at the blue sky over Lake Champlain.

Deep waters measured over 410 feet!

 

Ohhhh Canada!  

When approaching the Canadian border by water mariners fly a yellow quarantine flag, signaling you have not yet cleared customs.  Once processed by the authorities, you are allowed to lower the yellow and raise the cherished maple leaf!

 

 

Clearing Customs in Canada with Vagabond.

 

Champlain Locks – over the course of two days we traversed 13 locks with our travel buddies, HMS/Vagabond and Houlegan again.  

 

 

Sometimes it was a tight squeeze, as you can see there was no room to spare between Vagabond and this Canadian boat.

 

 

Marina Saurel

We found a retreat at Marina Saurel. Here’s a link to the marina – in French, or English  Not speaking French is a handicap for us, but the Canadians are sooo friendly, and surprisingly forgiving if you just try, a little, and, they love it when we leave cookies and Vagabond leaves a bag full of candy at the locks!  It turns out, Rick’s high school French was very helpful. So glad you were surrounded by French at a young age, Looper buddy, Ray!

 

Special thanks to the staff, we appreciate both your humor and your kindness.

Here’s a special photo for Scrapman Mike

Next Stop:

Heading to Montreal, with a few locks in between.  Merci!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)

 

 

We arrived at a fork in the road.  For months we had agonized over the better route, “Erie or Champlain?” The challenge: several fixed bridges on the Champlain route (bucket list preference) restrict access, causing most loopers to opt for the Erie Canal route (Plan B).

In 2017, the Erie canal celebrated its 200th birthday! Originally 4 feet deep and 40 feet wide, it successfully floated boats carrying up to 30 tons of freight.

 

 

 

If you want to learn more about the Erie Canal, click here.

The original canal runs along side the enhanced canal which is now 70 feet wide and 7 feet deep.  Now it can handle boats carrying up to 240 tons of cargo.

The “air draft” (height) is measured two ways – first with all the electronics in place (Exhale is 19’3″),  second with everything you can possibly remove lowered from the hard top –  radar, radio antennae, wifi, you get the idea. The measurement changes slightly when the water and fuel tanks are full as well as when there are people and provisions on board – don’t worry Maddie, you and your food won’t make much difference, Donna’s luggage on the other hand might have …. Our air draft was 17’2″ after we took everything off the hardtop. 

Many of our boating friends were avoiding the Champlain route, frightened off by a 17′ fixed railroad bridge near Whitehall.  During the AGLCA rendezvous we heard the water levels were low, making that bridge height more like 17’4″. If it did not rain heavily we just might make it. Not a lot of room for error.

Plan B was to take the Erie Canal. We docked on the wall at Waterford, gateway to either route, planning to measure the boat, again, to consider our options.

WWRD? So glad you asked, Rick successfully connected with the NY Canal Section Superintendent, Timothy McInerney. He’s the guy who gives direction to “raise and lower the water pools” :-) We were shocked when Tim arrived at our boat in Waterford, and elated when he said, “Go for it!” We would reach the lowest bridge by mid-day tomorrow, worst case we could turn back.  We were even more impressed when he not only was at the first lock of the day, but he drove ahead to all of the low bridges, to monitor, and cheer, the nail biting journey!    Traveling with loopers HMS/Vagabond and Houlegan Again, we took off early in the morning.

The first low bridge

Our trusty crew member, Dave Floyd, aka Almost #8, is 6’2″.  He volunteered to monitor the hardtop. We nervously drifted under the bridge, down below Capt Rick was prepared to throw it in reverse if there was any danger of getting stuck.

Railroad Bridge #2

Houlegan (We call them hooligans and shenanigans) decided to measure as well.

It was smooth sailing under the second low bridge, again, nearly two feet to spare!

 

In between bridges we went through a total of 12 locks in the Champlain Canal.  Our Guardian Angel, Pilgrim HMS/Vagabond, stayed close all day.

In Fort Edwards we were surprised to discover the flood control gate was not fully raised to it’s normal height of around 25′.  We think it was closer to 18′, and it looked like a deadly guillotine.  Yet another nerve racking moment.

Along the Champlain Canal we noticed a growing trend of lawn sculptures – apparently to detour pesky geese and other critters.

We were happy to see Canal 8, brought to you by #8.  Yes, Mo, the little paper bag on the shore is special dock trash.  This one contained a mini bottle of Titos and a granola bar – breakfast of champions.

Testing the Air Draft

There she was, the infamous 17′ Railroad Bridge.  With Houlegan Again and Vagabond slightly ahead of us, we took it really slow.  They told us later they were all going to jump on our boat, for extra weight, if we got stuck.  Photos from both boats show how close it really was –  we made it!!

Thanks, Tim – for lowering the water pools – and for escorting us all morning, you are one in a million!

Electronics Reinstalled

Thanks to the handy work of Rick and Dave, we were back in business.

Champlain Bridge – what a welcome sight.  Now that’s a comfortable clearance!

Blue Skies Ahead

Next Stop:

Heading towards Burlington, VT.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Vermont (9).

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)