This blog shares random highlights of our journeys on M/V Exhale, a slow moving trawler. From April 2016 through April 2025 we enjoyed the comfort of a 49 North Pacific trawler, launching from our home base in Fort Myers, Florida. Navigators on the 49NP include Capt Rick, Mary, and Miss Maddie Sue, our beloved boat dog who crossed the rainbow bridge in 2021.
The first big adventure was a 6,000 mile journey, completing America’s Great Loop over the course of 9 months (in 2018); escorted by dolphins, the trip required an overnight crossing of the Gulf of Mexico. We also braved the North Atlantic Ocean to explore the Bahamas twice (2019 and 2022). In 2021 we slowly traversed the eastern seaboard, destined to the cool waters of Maine. In 2023 we navigated the Down East Loop with Tonto’s Reward, a spectacular journey visiting Ottawa, Montreal, and Quebec City – along the St. Lawrence Seaway – traveling east to New Brunswick, Prince Edward Islands (home of PEI mussels!), Nova Scotia, and other parts of northeast Canada.
A new journey begins in 2025, aboard a 52 Kadey Krogen, also named Exhale. The crew includes Admiral Buttercup, a peanut butter colored Cavichon [Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and Bichon].
A dog’s life. A tribute to Maddie Sue. (2009 – 2021)
ex·hale
eksˈhāl,ˈeksˌhāl/
verb
breathe out in a deliberate manner.
“she sat back and exhaled deeply”
North Pacific YACHTS is based in Surrey, British Columbia, CANADA.
The Chesapeake Bay touches six states – New York, Pennsylvania, Maryland, Delaware, Virginia, and West Virginia – plus Washington, D.C. Over 18 million people live in the area, because it’s spectacular!
Although Rock Hall was introduced in the last post, here’s the Crab Cakes from Sandy – DELICIOUS.
Sandy Grosvenor, crab cakes extraordinaire
Introducing a new safety protocol – the Mount Gay Life Jacket!
Pirates be ware, Admiral Buttercup “aka Killer” is on Guard.
Osprey for the bird watchers.
Chester Town
One of our favorite spots in the Chesapeake. Incredible historic properties with great local restaurants. It’s fun to photograph the old brick buildings,
but, beware of those uneven sidewalks with shifty attack bricks – you know the kind, they “jump up” and make you “fall down”!
Here’s a Hydrangea for Mija.
This is for Commodore Greg Rocque – for the remodel plans, of course!
Custom House, 101 South Water Street, Chester Town; built in 1746.
One of Capt Rick’s favorite historic sites, situated at one of Maryland’s many active and trans-national ports, the three-story brick house consisted of a spacious warehouse on the first floor used as a Chestertown’s custom house; living quarters were located on the upper levels. Rear section added in 1771.
What is a custom house? Typically found at ports, it is where customs officials processed and collected duties and taxes on imported goods (including slaves). The original owner was Thomas Ringgold (1715-1772). Ringgold and his business partner Samuel Galloway III – reminds us of a certain wealthy family in southwest Florida – operated the largest slave trade operation in the Chesapeake Bay. Not cool.
The structure was restored and donated to Washington College in 1993 and is now used as a cultural education center. Now, that’s cool.
This classic MGB is for my little sister, Frances. I know, Scott Taylor’s sweet ride was butterscotch.
Oxford
There’s nothing like the shade of a mature tree, overlooking the waterway; right Ryan Mendoza?? When walking about, take the time to appreciate their beauty.
Stats: Oxford Population is shrinking, with only 611 perm residents as of 2020. As of that census, the median age in the town was 61.1 years. Only 8.1% of residents were under the age of 18 – in other words, it’s a retirement community, not a family town.
Watermen’s Mural – Hey Miss Morgan, do you see the boat with your name on it?
This tiny house is for Ynot!
Solomon’s, Maryland
We stopped, again, at Solomon’s. Sorry no pictures this time. Goodbye Maryland, it was a wonderful visit!
Tangier Island, Virginia
First, to get in the mood, click here to listen to Gravity – by John Mayer, found on the award winning album, “where the light is”
The first line of the song goes like this, “Gravity is working against me, and gravity wants to bring me down.”
Spoiler Alert – the following true story may be cringe worthy to some. Here we go.
Visualize a heavy current, with fixed docks; for non boaters that means it is a challenge to get on and off the boat as the tide continues to change. Thankfully, Tonto’s Reward docked first, so the Bernsteins were standing on the dock, poised to assist with the lines. I smoothly tossed a bow line to David B, who adeptly wrapped it around a piling. Unfortunately, we needed to bring the bow closer to the dock to safely tie up. So, I planned to quickly remove and relocate the bow line from the forward hawse pipe to one farther back. Tragically, I tripped on a hatch in the process, then, gravity did it’s thing – I fell, hard, on the deck of the boat.
Next thing I knew, the Tangier Volunteer Fire Department had arrived, to extract my wounded self from the boat, onto the fixed dock via an Emergency Evacuation Stair Chair Lift, similar to this:
It was NOT an easy task. The men carried the heavy chair down a long narrow dock, followed by a gravel path, before finally reaching a paved surface where they could transfer me to an ambulance gurney. It is possible the entire department showed up, including but not limited to Rob, Gary, Andy, Wes, and Lucas – with assistance from Inez and Jerry; a great opportunity to perform a rare drill!
As it turns out, the ambulance ride was less than a mile to the clinic. Good grief.
Quite the surprise for an island population of less than 400 people, the Riverside Tangier clinic is modern, spacious, and equipped with XRay equipment!
David B Nichols Health Center, photo by David Bernstein.
Ms. Inez Pruitt, PA-C, is phenomenal. Born in Tangier Island she is the primary medical officer of the Riverside Tangier David B Nichols Health Center. Pictured here with her father, waterman Capt Jerry Frank Pruitt, owner of Pruitt’s Boatyard.
Jerry and Inez Pruitt, photo by Capt. Rick
Since they were not equipped to handle ortho surgery, with Capt Rick single handing Exhale for the first time ever (SandyG, you would have been proud), off to Onancock we went!
Onancock, Virginia
We got real familiar with Onancock (prounounced oh-nan (like nancy)-cock (like rooster), a sleepy historic town with a full service hospital.
Prognosis: fractured tibia plateau. Yes, Mayer fans, gravity brought me down to my knees!
Waiting in Onancock
Remedy: Ortho surgery – realigning the bone and stabilizing with a plate, screws, and other hardware, plus a bone filler to lift my knee and help me walk again – scheduled tomorrow (Friday, Sept 5).
Next Steps: wait two more weeks for a “green flag” from the surgeon – hopefully by Sept 19. Meanwhile, Exhale is highly visible at the Onancock Wharf. So, if you are in the neighborhood, stop by. Visitor’s Welcomed!
Once we have approval to “go”, with the help of Tonto’s Reward, Exhale will traverse to Norfolk where this blogger will reluctantly get off the boat, destined to Fort Myers for PT – most likely beginning the week of Sept 22.
Moving Forward: Since the surgeon is requiring three months of non-weight bearing hobbling around, Capt Rick will be single handing the boat from Norfolk to Savannah, then from Savannah to Fort Myers.
Unique Boater’s Invitation – anyone interested in an adventure as co-captain of Exhale PLEASE reach out to Capt Rick. Short stints welcomed. Dates flexible, subject to Florida hurricane season. First Dibs belongs to Sideways, followed by Craig Adford.
Chesapeake Summer Recap:
We close with a recap of the many fabulous places we explored in the Chesapeake this summer, MOST for the first time. This map includes most of the stops – zoom in to see where we went.
In no particular order – Potomac River: Washington DC, Alexandria, Colonial Beach, St. Mary’s City; Rappahannock River: Urbana; Chesapeake Bay: Reedville, Deltaville, Rock Hall, Onancock, Tangier; Choptank River: Cambridge, Oxford; Eastern Bay: St. Michaels, Wye River; Chester River: Chester Town. Plus a few more stops I forgot to mention.
Boater’s Tip – in the past we may or may not have bemoaned these waterways; now we highly endorse the journey!! Just watch out for Gravity :-)
Celebrating Milestones: Birthday September 5, Susan Merritt (so very sorry to you and Jim for your loss); September 9, Connie B; September 15, Tony Rodriguez.
Delayed thanks to LibbyMcGuire, who hosted dinner my last night in Fort Myers, and who took me to the airport! Thanks Libby, you are the BEST neighbor. See you VERY soon.
The Gov. William Preston Lane Jr. Memorial Bridge spans over 4 miles! When it was opened in 1952, it was the world’s longest continuous over-water steel structure. Now, there are numerous bridges worldwide that beat that record.
The bridge name honors the former 52nd governor, who launched the construction of the phenomenal connector. But that’s a long name, even for a loooong bridge. Instead, you might call it the Chesapeake Bay Bridge or just the Bay Bridge.
Chesapeake Bay Bridge from Annapolis to Maryland’s Eastern Shore. Stock Photo Wikipedia
Notice the guard rails are low, and the bridge is relatively narrow. No wonder Susan Jellen is not fond of driving across this scary bridge.
stock photo, Wikipedia
From the water it was sweet to see this sailboat passing smoothly under the bridge.
A brief Florida visit
This week I flew to Fort Myers, FL for a brief visit, happy to reconnect with several friends. First, let’s check in on our wildest neighbor, Ollie, the Burrowing Owl!
Curious about the local critter? Here area few Burrowing Owl stats: typical adult height 8-10” / Wing Span 22”. Although they can dig for themselves, they often let other animals do all the work, taking over burrows of prairie dogs, skunks, and other digging animals. In some cases it is a revival of an abandoned site, but in other cases the smaller animal was “evicted” unfairly, without notice.
Fun fact – These owls are not great fliers, with relatively short wings and tail; instead they have long, skinny legsso they hunt mostly on foot, and they are fast runners when chasing prey.
Another fabulous fact – the sexes are identical in size and color, they both guard the nest and they both hunt. Thus, gender equality is real in this part of the animal kingdom! Whooo. Whooo.
Friendly Visits
A planned stop at St. Charles Yacht Club (SCYC) was intended to be brief, to retrieve a few club burgees for David B. Lucky me, the timing was perfect as I was invited to sit with the Commodore and his wife for dinner! Say hello to Greg and Paula Rocque. Special thanks to the GM Justin Fleming for preparing an exceptional steak with sautéed mushrooms (pictured here!) Kim H, wish you were there! And thanks to Madi for spoiling me, again!
Say hello to another friend, Dr. Joe Occhino (ret. dentist), you look great, Joe!
Wittman neighbors, Morgan and Pamela,
Steven with a “v” Hunt and Donna Wallace,
and it was great to see Caryl Moulder (not pictured). Here’s Caryl’s cat, the observer, Brock-a-lee; keeping a close eye on yet another DIY project from Sideways!
The talented Mr. Brock – a – lee above the cabinets
Rock Hall, Maryland
After a short flight from RSW to Dulles International, on Sunday Exhale and Tonto’s Reward departed Annapolis (Madi’s special place!) to Rock Hall, yet another small town in Maryland known for it’s seafood.
Watermen’s Mural.
We had lunch at the Harbor Shack Waterfront Bar and Grill, just a short walk from the marina. Absolutely delighted to spot this meaningful authentic Alaska license plate from Seward, Alaska, where I went to high school, for real! Blaine and former mayor Jean Bardarson, did you give them your plate? Seems plausible!
Zoom in. Issued from late 1997 through late 2004, the design commemorates the Centennial of the 1898 Alaska Gold Rush, featuring prospectors climbing the Chilkoot Pass trail.
Rock Hall is such a cute town.
Family Time
We close with a photo from our granddaughter Pristine Bleu. Our great granddaughter Juliette Bleu Martinez is turning 4 in November; as you can she loves to read! Bravo Pristine!
She is so excited to go to school soon!
Celebrating Milestones
Birthdays: August 23, Matt Jackson; August 24, Patrick Mager – who says, “don’t let the old man in” (you are as old as you believe, so keep strong and live long)!
Up Next: – tonight the Bernstein’s and us will be spoiled with Sandy Grosvenor‘s infamous crab cakes, cooking and dining on her North Pacific, Road Trip.
For Tyler: Ohio is almost 4 times the size of Maryland, at 44,826 square miles. Let’s also compare Maryland to my home state, Alaska, which measures in at 665,384 square miles or 54 times bigger than Maryland! How does your home state measure up? Click here
Annapolis Regatta
Annapolis is well known for Spectacular Sailboats! These are for Gail B.
Wye River, Maryland
Thank you again to Bob and Susan Jellen for introducing us to their oasis, Wye River. We anchored out near their home with Tonto’s Reward; it was their first big journey on their new boat.
photo by David Bernstein
In the early morning we were surrounded by fog, the perfect fishing conditions for this hearty waterman.
SFYC minyan! Orchestrated by the Jellens, we had a fabulous dinner at the Fisherman’s Inn in Kent Narrows.
10 friends from Southwest Florida Yacht Club (SFYC) gathered together for dinner – clockwise from the bottom – Susan Jellen, Laura Magers, Patty Letzler, Patrick Magers, David Bernstein, Bob Jellen, Tom Letzler, Rick Ginsburg, Mary S, and Gail Bernstein.
A proper Maryland Crab Feast
Bob and Susan Jellen generously included all 10 of us in their annual crab feast at their home on Wye River. Buttercup appeared to be the guest of honor – spoiled with the best chair in the house.
We relaxed poolside at the Jellen’s – it was time for the BIG bottles of wine :-)
Left to right, poolside gathering – Bob Jellen, Susan Jellen, Patrick and Laura Magers, Patty and Tom Letzler.
Susan shared her technique to crack and pick whole crabs. It doesn’t get any fresher than this!
Not pictured: Fresh Shrimp, Grilled Alaskan Reindeer Sausage (provided by Capt. Rick – from Costco in Anchorage, AK, thanks Finny), and LOTS of paper towels.
Really Sorry, the video of Susan was too big to upload, although not as fun, here’s a page from the Annapolis tourist guide with similar instructions (thanks Jamie and David).
Old Bay is the BEST seasoning on crabs and shrimp. Note to novice pickers – although it’s very, very messy, it’s sooo worth it!
After a perfect evening of amazing food and great friends here’s a view of the Queenstown Clouds – reflecting on the water at our Wye River anchorage.
From the anchorage back to the Jellen’s home, time for a Dinghy Ride on Inhale with the Bernsteins. Buttercup is sitting pretty!
Wye River Lighthouse – sharing the beauty.
Visitors on Board – Hendry Celebration
We went back to Annapolis, again. This time it was to meet up with Jamie, David, and grandson Tyler who drove from Cleveland, Ohio to Annapolis to climb on board for a long weekend. Tyler is 9 years old. Grandpa Rick let him steer the boat with his big feet.
In St. Michael’s those big feet found the original Watermen Boots, as well as Grandpa Rick’s favorite reclining chair.
Tyler also found the Penguin Mascot – nothing like a fluffy pirate companion.
Tyler and David discovered a blue crab near the boat, which David swooped up in a net.
A few days later they caught two more. For the trained eye, yes, the top crab is a female! All of the crabs were to puny to cook and eat. Catch and Release.
Tyler really liked the breeze on the fly bridge – it felt like he could fly.
Along the water way we spotted Navy Yard Patrol 686. Used for midshipmen’s training, this vessel was outfitted for oceanographic research.
Celebrating Milestones – Birthdays: August 19, Alisha Silverstein and Julia Goral; Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson; August 24, Patrick Magers.
Next Up: Exhale is docked in Annapolis until August 24. If you are in the neighborhood, please visit!!
Can you say that three times, real fast? The river is downstream from Washington DC; beginning at the Chesapeake Bay, the river runs a total of 195 miles with a plethora of beautiful homes along the shore. The name may be very familiar if you love oysters!
Urbanna, VA
Exhale and Tonto’s Reward stopped for one night in Urbanna, or “City of Anne”, named after Great Britain’s Queen Anne. Year round population as of 2000 = 543 persons :-)
Urbanna, supporting Ukraine
We stayed at Urbby Boatyard and Marina – once 4 neighboring marinas, it has since merged into one colossal marina, covering 7 acres and offering 172 wet slips. Owned and operated by Andy and Amy Anderson it was a wonderful spot. Boater’s Tip: We highly recommend you stay there! Check it out.
Andy and Amy Anderson – photo from their website
The full-service marina now includes a phenomenal New York deli with the freshest ingredients imaginable. I suggest you order the Hot Pastrami or my favorite, the Rueben; you won’t be disappointed!
Exhale was tied up at the one end of the marina, adjacent to the bridge, on a floating dock. Insuring lots of extra steps for all of us, Tonto’s Reward was berthed at the extreme opposite end.
Boater’s Tip: the adorable town of Urbanna is easy walking distance from the marina. A very walkable little village, this photo is for Ray Houle, who loves trucks and classic stuff.
Zoom in, it’s a Mail truck.
Here’s one more pair of Watermen Art Project boots, found in Urbanna! I love the authentic grass clippings on the toes of the boots.
Reedville, VA – a quaint fishing town
In 1874 fisherman Capt. Elijah Reed founded the village of Reedville, obviously naming the community after himself. Today Reedville claims to be is one of the major commercial fishing ports in the United States, second to Kodiak, Alaska. Let’s be real. You can’t really compete with Alaska since it produces about 60% of the nation’s commercial fisheries – including salmon, crab, Pacific cod, shrimp, herring, sablefish (black cod), pollock, and one of my personal favorites, halibut. Yum.
The wealth generated from the fishing industry supported the construction of several Victorian mansions.
The 1909 Reedville Gables Victorian Mansion is now a lovely bed and breakfast.
Gail Bernstein and I strongly recommend a visit to the Reedville Fishermen’s Museum; if the building is closed don’t leave too quickly, make the time to walkabout (for Heather Rutherford), and enjoy the outdoor exhibits!
And now, a new word (new to me, that is) found on the transom of this tiny boat located at the Fishermen’s Musuem.
Okay, readers, what is a Spat?
You are right, Alisha J, spats are footwear; for some it is also the past tense of spit; and for seafood lovers, it is a mollusc reference; essentially, it’s a baby oyster that has found a place to attach and grow. Here’s the official life cycle of an oyster, from FSU. Cool lesson!
Sorry, Capt Rick, Chitterchats Ice Cream Parlor was closed – open Thursday thru Sunday only.
Chitterchats Icecream, Reedville, VA
Small towns have the most beautiful sunsets!
Reedville sunset
Spring Cove, MD, again
Exhale returned to Spring Cove for one night. The flowers and the grass in this location are stunning, attributed to the rich soil and rainy conditions. No brackish water here!
Cambridge Yacht Basin, Maryland
Founded in 1684 on the beautiful banks of the Choptank River, Cambridge, MD is one of the oldest colonial cities in the nation.
Choptank River Lighthouse
The original lighthouse at the Choptank River Station was built in 1871 in Baltimore. Keep reading – the lighthouse has a unique story to tell.
Tragedy Strikes – Bizarrely, the lighthouse was walloped by ice not once, but twice! The first collision was in 1880, cracking three pilings. The second time, in 1918, 30-foot high ice flows severely compromised the structure, causing it to topple into the raging river a few weeks later.
The freak loss was a tragic natural disaster. During an era of heavy steamboat, sailing and fishing traffic, it was the only manned lighthouse inside the Choptank River. Critical to safe navigation, the lights and fog bells helped to guide ships to Cambridge, and farther up-river to Secretary and Denton.
Unique Collaboration – In 1921, not long after the lighthouse crashed into the Choptank River, officials in Maryland reached out to officials in Virginia, striking a highly unusual agreement – to relocate the 1858 Cherrystone Bar Lighthouse from Cape Charles, VA (click to learn more) to Cambridge.
Cherrystone Bar Light, City of Cambridge stock photo.
The VA lighthouse had recently been mothballed and placed in storage, replaced by newer technology – with an automated fog bell. Unfortunately, it was another example of automation replacing a human.
Towed by barge about 100 miles up the Chesapeake, the VA lighthouse was successfully relocated to Choptank River, MD, labeled as the “original site” in the map below.
Fun facts for your Thursday night trivia teams – it was the only lighthouse to be transplanted and re-activated, and, it was the only one commissioned to serve in two states! Did you know that the fog bell in each lighthouse has a different sound pattern, so mariners could navigate in the fog?
Fast forward to modern times, the Cambridge River Lighthouse Society carefully rebuilt the Choptank River Lighthouse at the “replica site” shown in the map above – in celebration of the town’s rich maritime heritage.
The Choptank River Lighthouse replica was completed in 2012.
Now it is a popular museum located at the Choptank Wharf.
Reposting a photo from my Instagram feed – say hello to Juliette, she’s our great granddaughter, also Tony and Alisha’s granddaughter, and of course Pristine Bleu’s beautiful big girl! A statement of fashion at 3 and 3/4, she’s so adorable.
Instagram photo from @pristinebleu
In closing we share this lawn sign, found at the edge of a well manicured lawn in Maryland. You probably know, the official motto of the United States, adopted in 1782, is E Pluribus Unum, translated Out of Many, One. The motto reflects the formation of the United States from the original thirteen colonies, which united to become a single nation. Diversity and unity can coexist. While the nation is comprised of many individual states, it is also one united entity.
The official motto appears on common symbols of the U.S. government, including the Great Seal and the Dollar Bill.
Celebrating Milestones:
Birthday August 10, David Hendry; August 11 Romeo and Ruby
Anniversary August 12, Mike and Sue Gillespie
Next up: St. Michaels; Tyler, David and Jamie Hendry arrive soon!
Roughly 15 miles south of Washington, D.C. you can find George Washington’s Mansion – Private vessels are welcome on a first-come, first-served basis. Fortunately for our pupster, you can tie up to the ferry dock for a few hours, allowing plenty of time for her to water a tree.
Restoration is ongoing at the mansion, proof that tourist traffic supports the facility.
Washington’s Tomb is easy to find. Rather modest in size, I was shocked to discover the tomb is beyond CROWDED. In fact, George, Martha and 25 close relatives are buried together. Not a big fan of tight quarters or over-crowded spaces, I say no thanks on the family snuggle.
As you can see, the view from Mt. Vernon is serene.
The museum was well air-conditioned, a welcome respite from the record heat. This musical tribute is for Ynot.
Within sight of the Mansion, we anchored out. It was a quiet night, with little wind.
sunset over Mt. Vernon
We returned to Colonial Beach – this sunset is for Dave and Holly Lubs.
St. Mary’s College
First, a throwback to our prior visit to St. Mary’s in 2018. Say hi to Lorrie Swink, M/V Reality, and our original boatdog, Maddie Sue, taken 7 years ago.
– and here are some young sailor’s from St. Mary’s.
Kilmarnock, Chesapeake Boat Basin, Indian Creek
The quaint litte town was founded in 1650, yes, it is named after Kilmarnock, Scotland. Year round population is about 1,500. Immediately adjacent to the marina you find the Perdue Grainary (seen below). Today it is used for storing and processing corn, soybeans, and wheat.
Boater’s Tip: The Chesapeake Boat Basin marina has a loaner car; take a short drive (about 3 miles) and you will find lots of delicious restaurants and local shops, worth the visit!
Watermen’s Way
Watermen’s Way is a public art project honoring the Watermen and Waterwomen of the Chesapeake Bay and its tributaries. It turns out the project was inspired by a certain pair of boots you might recognize from an earlier blog post – found outside the marine museum at St. Michaels.
The oversized fiberglass boots, measuring 3 feet tall and 4 feet wide, are iconic representations of the men and women who make their living on the water.
In real life, the sturdy boots are used by the seafood industry across the world. This blogger wore such boots working in more than one smelly fish cannery in Alaska. In the Chesapeake Bay the sturdy boots have nicknames like “Guinea Slippers,” “Tangier Tennis Shoes,” “Red Balls,” or “Bubba Boots.”
She’s color coordinated! Kilmarnock, VA
Designs from 15 local artists were selected by Virginia’s River Realm. The vibrant boots are on display in Irvington, Kilmarnock, Deltaville, and Urbanna.To learn more, click here :-) Each fiberglass sculpture is unique, drawing from themes that reflect the lives of the watermen and waterwoman who work on the waterways. Popular themes include harvesting crabs, oysters, and fish.
Irvington, VA; Tides Inn – Church Prong
The resort is surrounded by serene scenery, such as this.
More boots – the chosen artist from Irvington selected oysters and fish as her theme.
Soybeans – crops in VA
We have seen numerous fields like this in VA. After a little research, we confirmed the crop is in fact soybeans. Bravo Capt. Rick.
Soybeans are Virginia’s number one cash crop, bringing in $165.7 million to the state, grown from the Eastern Shore to the Shenandoah Vally.
Did you know that soybeans are used in over 1,000 industrial products, such as plastics, paints, soaps, and crayons. They are also a key ingredient in animal feed, cooking oil, bakery products, and even biodiesel. If you want to know more, here’s a link to the Virginia Soybean Association Uses of Soy. You can’t make this stuff up!
Proud Mama
Congrats to Dream House Press! My phenomenal son-in law has officially opened a new printing business in Huntington Park, CA. We are so proud. Bravisimo, Ynot!
Tony Rodriguez, co-owner, Dream House Press
Celebrating Milestones – August 3, Andrea and Carly; August 4, Weston Wayne Sumpter Straley is 12; August 6, Morgan Wasmuth is 8, and Tanja Elliott; August 10, David Hendry.
Up Next – Rappahannock River, home of the BEST oysters. Headed to Urbanna, VA; Since it’s less than 9 nautical miles from our current location (Irvington, VA) I got to sleep in on a Sunday. Whoo Hooo.
First let’s resolve this common spelling question. Capital spelled with an “a” refers to the city, to uppercase letters, or to money; Capitol spelled with an “o” is the building in DC, pictured below :-). Whether you visit the city – spanning 68 square miles, or just the famous building, it’s a busy area! In fact, Washington DC brags 27 million visitors a year to the capital, including roughly 2 million international visitors.
US Capitol, Washington, D.C.
DC now holds the title of the “Worst Traffic in America”, surpassing LA. Click here to verify! BUT don’t blame traffic congestion on the tourists – that’s a local commuter problem. Good news, slow traffic equals very few automobile accidents!
Capitol Building History
Most likely you have heard of the War of 1812, but did you know in 1814 the British army pillaged and torched the capitol building? The British occupation of Washington, D.C. lasted for roughly 26 hours; the attack was motivated by revenge for the American looting of York in Upper Canada, the provincial British capital.
US Library of Congress: The History of England, from the Earliest Periods
Local Celebrity Moment
When in DC, don’t be surprised if you bump into a friendly celebrity. On the docks of the Capital Yacht Club, Rick and Craig met the retired US Senator (D) from West Virginia. His yacht, “Almost Heaven”, named for the official W. VA state song, was just two boats away. Worth the listen, click here for the 50th Anniversary CMA awards video – the fabulous Forever Country version with too many artists to count.
Craig Adford, Joe Manchin, Rick Ginsburg
Touring the Capital City
With Craig and Maureen on board for our week in DC, we took turns identifying a tourist highlight for the day. There are so many Smithsonian Museums – most are free to the public, but some require a time slot reservation, so plan ahead. Thanks Maureen for picking the International Spy Museum.
Stock Photo
Opened in 2002, the museum documents the history of espionage with a plethora of fascinating spy stuff from the Ancient Greeks and the Roman Empire to modern day. Located at 700 L’Enfant Plaza, the 32,000 square foot building reportedly holds the largest collection of international espionage artifacts on public display.
And, it is home to Bond in Motion. The favorite exhibit of our group, by far.
Smithsonian Hirschhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden
I selected the delightfully air conditioned museum, although there was only one Banksy on display – for Steven with a V.
The exhibit entitled Osgemeos: Endless Story was impressive. With over 1,000 pieces on display, the museum brags it is the largest US exhibition of work by identical twin brothers Gustavo and Otavio Pandolfo (note, the translation of “twins” in Portuguese is “Osgemeos”).
stock photo
Known for urban art and graffiti traditions, the displays were both thought provoking and whimsical. Highlighting a few photos taken for mijos, Zach and Ynot.
for Zach
Other World Music for Tony
US Holocaust Memorial Museum
Rick chose the informative but depressing memorial, a reminder of the human suffering that should have been quelled sooner. It was “a sobering journey through the rise of Nazi Germany, the Final Solution, and the impact on Jewish people.” Sorry, no pictures. Nearby was a reminder of a beloved genuis who wisely left Berlin in 1933, during the early phases of human annihilation, to relocate to Princeton, New Jersey.
Photo by Rick Ginsburg: Einstein
Alexandria, VA
A sidetrip on the dinghy took us to Alexandria.
In honor of a familiar tattoo, we toured the torpedo factory.
Built in 1918, the factory manufactured MarkXIV torpedos during WWII.
In 1974, it reopened as the Torpedo Factory Art Center, a vibrant co-op space for artists and educators. While we were there it was fun to watch the artists in action.
Walking around town we found numerous shops and restaurants, with a pedestrian section (no automobiles) that encouraged a lovely walkabout.
Arlington Cemetery
Boater’s Tip: Hop on Hop off is a nice way to see a LOT in a single day. After a full week in DC in record heat, we barely scratched the surface. Included in the Hop On Hop Off tour is a visit to the Arlington Cemetery.
Once you are at the cemetery, spend the extra $$ for the tram – the place is beyond massive.
Sadly, there were over 20 burials the day we visited. So far, gravesites number around 430,000.
We were surprised to discover the variety of sizes and shapes of gravestones, a well hidden secret. No longer an option as of 2017, now only standard issue white headstones are allowed – a change implemented as of Trump’s first term.
Under a grove of shady trees we found the final resting place of my idol, Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg (1933-1920) and her spouse, Martin David Ginsburg (1932-2010). Marty was an Army Veteran.
Ruth was a trailblazer who challenged and over turned discriminatory laws and practices, leaving a lasting impact on legal and social landscapes. It is unknown whether Capt Rick Ginsburg is actually related to Martin Ginsburg – that would be a proud discovery.
photo by Gail Bernstein. Justices Thurgood and Ginsburg, Annapolis, MD.
Burgee Exchange
Thanks to the Capital Yacht Club Vice Commodore who exchanged our St. Charles Yacht Club (SCYC) Burgee.
Closing with a picture from my brother Sam Straley, taken from his home in Girdwood, Alaska. His rustic abode faces a glacier, yes, the fireweed are spectacular!
Perhaps you already know, the beautiful flowers bloom from the bottom up, with the peak bloom often occurring in mid-July to mid-August. When the blooms reach the top, it’s a sign that summer is nearing its end.
Celebrating Milestones:
Birthdays – July 26, Barry Hildebrand; August 3, Andrea Davis and Carly Lennon Maurer.
What’s Next: anchoring out at Mt. Vernon, VA – exploring President George Washington’s mansion. Then a return to Colonial Beach, VA followed by an anchorage at St. Mary’s College of Maryland.
The run from Annapolis to Spring Cove is roughly 6 hours. Boater’s Tip, the marina offers a courtesy car (nearby grocery) to be returned by 6 ish. We opted to eat dinner on board. Sorry, no photos.
Colonial Beach, VA
Thanks Patrick and LauraMagers for the suggestion to stay at the Boat House in Colonial Beach, VA. About 8 hours from Spring Cove, the town is so adorable we stayed two nights.
Permanent population hovers around 3,600, this sweet beach town is a VERY popular stop for a summer vacation rental. Small beaches like this are plentiful, extending 2.5 miles along the Potomac River banks. A rare find!
On our second day, we were surprised by a visit from Florida friends Tom and Faye Turke, who are exploring by automobile this summer, rather than cruising the waterways in their lovely North Pacific Yacht, Treble in Paradise. Thanks for making the journey!
Local Restaurants in Colonial Beach were wonderful. We strongly recommend the Sunflower Cuisine (click here) – Sushi Thai fusion with French flair. Worth the walk. Flavors are extraordinary, and presentation is elegant.
Washington DC
From Colonial Beach we cruised up the beautiful Potomac to Washington DC. Exhale is spending a total of one week in our nation’s capital. Boaters, we recommend the Capital Yacht Club (as suggested by Ray and Caryl). We booked the marina reservation about 4 months in advance, note there are very few transient slips. Zoom in, Exhale can be seen on the left, notice the Washington Monument in the near distance. Within walking distance of the monuments, the location is superb.
Craig Adford and Maureen O’Gara flew in from LAX, to join us in Washington DC for a week of exploration.
July 20 is National Ice Cream day – put it on your calendar!
soft ice cream preferred
Lincoln Memorial
One of my favorite photographs of my mother, Laura Jo Straley, dates back roughly 80 years ago. She is relaxing at the reflecting pool, with the Lincoln Memorial in the background.
Visiting DC for the very first time, we attempted to reenact the photo. Thanks Craig Adford for the black and white photo.
The Lincoln Memorial Reflecting Pool was designed by Henry Bacon, completed in 1923. It is approximately 2,030 feet long and 167 feet wide.
You may recall that heartwarming scene when Forrest Gump and Jenny reunite in the pool (click here) :-). For those of you who don’t swim, don’t worry, the depth is only 18 inches on the sides.
Here are a few fun facts about President Lincoln and the memorial
The Lincoln Memorial was dedicated in 1922, 58 years after Lincoln’s death. My mom was there in the 1940s.
The statue of Lincoln is 19 feet tall and weighs 175 tons.
The memorial has 36 columns, each representing a state during Lincoln’s time.
There are 87 steps leading to the memorial referencing Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address (four score and seven years).
More Fun Facts about President Lincoln – he was the first bearded US President, the first to hold a patent and the first to be in an inaugural photograph.
Did you know – The bill to create the US Secret Service was on the President’s desk the night of his assassination? One of the principal purposes of the Secret Service is to protect national leaders, such as the President. Would their presence have saved Lincoln’s life? Unknown.
Washington Monument
The opposite end of the reflecting pool faces the Washington Monument. Completed in 1884, the phallic obelisk was built to commemorate President George Washington, like Lincoln, was dead when his memorial was created.
According to Wiki, it is the world’s tallest predominantly stone structure and it is the world’s tallest obelisk, standing 554 feet 7+11⁄32 inches tall [how’s that for precise!] , according to U.S. National Geodetic Survey measurements as of 2014.
The tallest building is found in Dubai (right, Craig?). The Burj Khalifa is 2,717 feet tall; the New York One World Trade Center ranks 7th, at a meaningful 1,776 feet high.
Vietnam Women’s Memorial
Thank you Danielle Ginsburg for sending me this historic book, “The Women” by Kristin Hannah. It is a perfect explanation to the real story behind the Vietnam Women’s Memorial on the National Mall.
It was a common misogynist perception that there were “no women serving in Vietnam.” Tragically, the VA denied benefits to women who served in Vietnam, refusing any form of help. But as stated in “The Women”, if you served in Vietnam, and did not see a woman, you were one of the lucky few who never needed medical care.
The Vietnam Women’s Memorial is dedicated to the US nurses and women who served in the Vietnam War. The emotional memorial depicts three uniformed women with a wounded male soldier. Dedicated on Veterans Day in 1993 by Vice President Al Gore.
Closing with an exquisite sunset from Capital Yacht Club.
Celebrations and Milestones: Birthday: July 22, Ray Houle; Julie Hildebrand; July 26, Barry Hildebrand; July 28, Diana Giraldo;
Anniversary: July 22: Matt and Michele; July 26, Larry and Laura Straley
What’s Next? We will continue to tour the DC area and the Potomac River with Craig and Maureen until Saturday, July 26
Ten years in the making – It’s official – Tony Rodriguez and Alisha Silverstein got married on July 12, 2025. That announcement is worth the fireworks!!
Fireworks from St. Michaels, Maryland
Rick and I, along with Gail and David Bernstein, flew from Annapolis to CA for the sweet event. We started the weekend with Maureen O’Gara and Craig Adford (thank you!), in their beautiful home in Moorpark, CA. The monarch butterfly from their yard is for Alisha.
Wedding Magic – Mixed Tape
It is estimated that 150 people made the journey for the destination wedding at the secluded Pine Rose resort in Twin Peaks, CA [near Arrowhead]. Friday night was a casual mixer at the Strawberry Lodge, with roughly 60 people; a relaxed introduction of family and friends from both the bride and the groom, including childhood pals from Alaska, and special folks from CA, Oregon, Washington, Texas, Ohio, Nebraska, Kansas, Florida, New York and more!
Elizabeth preparing Moose steak
Long-time friend from Alaska, Elizabeth, brought fresh Moose Meat, recently killed by her handsome hubby. Now that’s truly organic! Photos offer just a small sample of the happy faces who joined us.
Carly, Tony, Alisha, Mary S, Zach, Julia, and Elizabeth.
photo by Maureen O’Gara
On the stairs Mo captured some (not all) of the Alaska Family: Austin, Kingston, Ella, Millie, Mary S, Julia, Tony, Alisha, Elizabeth, Joe, Brandon, Ruby, Carly, Zach and Elke.
Here’s one more from the stairs:
Zach Silverstein, Mary S, Alisha and Tony – photo by Maureen O’Gara
On the outside patio we found Alisha, Tony and Elke.
The Big Event
Saturday, 7/12/25 at 3:37 pm the magic commenced. If you are a fan of the epic Christmas movie, Love Actually, you must recall the wedding scene – go ahead, click on it, as a full choir and hidden band members surprise the bride immediately AFTER their vows, magically performing “All you need is love”.
To the delight of EVERYONE, the Big Event’s bridal procession began with live music, a marching band, with a trumpet and a drummer. The procession was accompanied by Alisha’s cousin, Joe Buckendahl, expertly performing on saxophone. Alisha’s cousin Kingston, and Tony’s business partner Joey, were strategically positioned in the audience on electric guitars.
Then the big surprise. Alisha sang, with confidence and skill, as she entered the venue. The procession song was Ray Lamontagne’s finest “You are the Best Thing”. Click here to listen to the original version – but you should know that Alisha did it BETTER. As she sang to Tony, there was not a dry eye in sight.
To keep the magic flowing, we are sharing some of the love witnessed that evening, with the help of many friends and family members who sent photos. Instagram captions give credit to the photographers.
Tony‘s vows resulted in uproars of laughter as he shared his deep appreciation of Alisha – who was caring for a well fed cat when they first met. When he realized it was a community cat, not actually her cat, he knew what she really needed – “not 1, not 2, not 3, not 4, not 5, not 6, but 7 furry babies”who are now spoiled members of their family. Beloved critters include three dogs – Jocey, Tilly, Mookie; and four cats – Taco, Belle, Luka and Jac.
The 100-year old wedding veil has been passed along in the Silverstein family, I believe it has been worn by eight women (is that right Wendy and Elise?). Thanks Grammy (Norma Silverstein), you were there in spirit every moment of the day.
Enjoying the magic with Craig, Maureen, Gail, David, Rick and yours truly.
Father of the Bride, and the bride, singing the Otis Redding classic, “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay“ . They both know all the words :-)
Alisha Silverstein and Steven Silverstein, photo by Tanja.
Yes the late night chicken was this good!
So Proud
Rick Ginsburg and Mary Silverstein, photo by Carly
Closing with an exquisite photo of the new Mr. and Mrs. on Sunday morning! Zoom in, Alisha’s t-shirt reads: “eat your heart out, I’m Married.” Mazel Tov and Congratulations to Alisha and Tony.
Special update: Tony’s beautiful daughter, Pristine, gave me a warm hug as we were checking out on Sunday. She seemed happy to enlighten me – since Tony is my son-in-law her two sweet babies, Juliette (age 3) and Penelope (age 1) are my great grandbabies! Pristine is truly beautiful, inside and out, and I am beyond thrilled to be a great grandma. Wow. Congrats again everyone.
The happy Mr. and Mrs. – photo by Mary S.
Next Up: Traveling Chesapeake Bay, a slow journey to Washington D.C. See you soon Craig and Maureen.
Joseph Christian Chestnut is the weiner king of Nathan’s Hot Dogs, again!
On Friday, July 4, Chestnut, 41, scarfed down 70.5 hot dogs [with buns] during the annual Coney Island Mustard Belt, winning for a record 17th time. The feat was close but not close enough to beat his own record of 76 franks set in 2021.
For me, the thought of eating even one dog is a barf moment in my book, but hey, Joey is fun to celebrate, he’s famous without a scandal!!
4th of July trivia [according to wallethub.com]: 150 million hot dogs are consumed each July 4th. With or without ketchup!
St. Michaels, Maryland
We ventured to St. Michaels for the long weekend, docked in tandem with Tonto’s Reward at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. The marina is at the edge of the very walkable town.
Traveling buddies, Exhale and Tonto’s Reward
St. Michael’s Parish
Are you wondering, was the church named first or the town? Originally a trading post for tobacco farmers and fur traders, the church was founded in 1672; so, yes the town is named after the parish :-)
St. Michael’s Parish, Christ Church, Episcopal.
We were surrounded by blue skies,
and colorful flowers.
Fun facts on the 4th of July:
Authorized by Congress [remember when that was a thing…], 1777 was the first year fireworks were used in an official Fourth of July celebration {marking the one-year anniversary}. China is credited with the invention of fireworks, while Italy made fireworks bright and beautiful by using metallic powders to create spectacular colors. Bravisimo!
On July 4, 1776, there were an estimated 2.5 million people living in the 13 colonies. By 2024, the population of the US was around 340.1 million.
Fourth of July became a federal holiday in 1870, thanks to Ulysses S. Grant.
FRESH tomatoes and basil.
Tomatoes and basil growing on the back deck of Exhale provided a delicious caprese salad. Look at the deep red! It was soooo yummy. Thanks Linda P.
Another lighthouse for Caryl at Navy Point
The Hooper Strait Lighthouse, now standing on Navy Point, was originally built in 1879 to light the way for boats passing through the shallow, dangerous shoals. Now it’s just a fun museum, without the shoals.
In case you are curious, the year round population of St. Michaels was 1,094 in 2023. As you walk around town you might conclude there are more trees than residents. Enjoy the magnificent White Oak, Eastern White Pine, American Beech, Black Cherry, Hickory and Maple; among others.
Gail and David Bernstein, July 4
Look closely for the bunny rabbits.
Breathe deep and look for fireflies
Standing strong
We close with a little Local Humor.
Celebrating Milestones
Birthday: July 5, Gail Doyle; July 7, Reality Rodger Swink; July 10, Jamie Hendry.
Next Stop – returning to Annapolis for a few days and then we fly west, to California :-)
See you VERY Soon Ynot; oh yes, it’s time to “tie the knot”!!July 12 at 3:37 pm
Willis Carrier (1876-1950) was an American Engineer who was the inventor of, drum roll please, the air conditioner. Oh yes!! Carrier was from Buffalo, NY [that’s for you, Holly!]; in 1902 he invented the first electrical air conditioning unit.
Stock Photo
It all traces back to Carrier’s place of work, a printing press at Sackett-Wilhelms Lithographing & Publishing Company of Brooklyn, New York. It was so humid in the summer – especially indoors – that paper grew and shrank, a mess for the color printing process that involved running the same piece of paper up to four times, each with a different color ink.
Carrier’s invention stabilized the ever-fluctuating humidity. Eventually, his invention was applied to modern day homes and work places. So, when you adjust the HVAC in your home, up or down, you can thank Willis Carrier.
Yes, we are still in Annapolis, a rare occurrence for us to hold still so long. In the midst of a heat wave across the north east, we appreciate Carrier’s brilliance.
St. Anne’s Parish
This week there have been a plethora of boat projects completed. And a few good naps taken.
Road Trip – Cambridge, MD
Thanks to David and Gail Bernstein we have been exploring by land. On Friday, the heat was quelled for one day – giving us a great reason for a road trip without the need for A/C in the toasty rental car! Today’s stops included Cambridge, MD plus a few other towns. We will provide more photos in the next post.
Here are just a few introductory photos, beginning with an early tiny home.
tiny house, with an addition in the back.
Cambridge Waterfront
Local flowers with pollinators, for Alisha. See you soon, Mija.
Dorchester County is the proud birthplace of Harriet Tubman.
Born Araminta Ross, Harriet Tubman (1822-1913) was a brave inspiration to many, and a beacon of hope. Tubman was her married name.
As shown on the map below from National Geographic, the Underground Railroad spanned from the Gulf of Mexico (an official map) to the Great Lakes of Canada, relying heavily upon good souls who hid, protected, and fed the passengers (enslaved persons).
National Geographic: Underground Railroad Map
People’s homes or businesses, where fugitive passengers and conductors could safely hide, were known as “stations” along the railroad.
Fun Fact: Enroute to Canada, there were stops in New York, including a special place in Albany, where one good samaritan couple was none other than William Henry Seward (1801-1872) and his wife Frances Adeline Miller Seward (1805-1865), who constantly pressed Seward to support the immediate emancipation of all slaves, even going so far as to instruct him to quit Lincoln’s cabinet if anything less was settled on.
Stock Photo: Frances Seward
Bravo Frances!!
In case your Civic History is a little fuzzy, Seward was the former Secretary of State under Lincoln – the brilliant guy who orchestrated the purchase of my home state, Alaska, from Russia in 1867!
former US Secretary of State William H Seward, 1863. Image courtesy National Archives.
Thanks to Linda Palmer, one of our tomatoes ripened beautifully. Do these tomatoes remind you of running lights? One is now bright red while the other seems destined to be a fried green tomato. True colors, there are no filters on this photo.
Thanks to a major transplant to a larger container, plus a little gardening trick from Capt. Rick, we will soon have more tomatoes to share. Watch for updates :-)
Celebrating Milestones:
Anniversaries June 27, Jamie and David Hendry; July 3 Capt. Rick and Mary; July 4, Tanja and Jason;
Birthdays July 1, Becky Weaver Browne; July 2, grandson Leo Perez is 16! July 5, Gail Doyle
What’s Next: St. Michaels, MD for the long 4th of July holiday.
For the first time on this journey we are holding still, it’s time to chill, time to unwind.
Buttercup says thank you!
Annapolis is the capital of Maryland. For many, it is a lovely, walkable, historic district.
It is also the home of St. Mary’s High School in Annapolis, Maryland. The Catholic co-ed school has a total enrollment of ~500; it’s known for its rigorous academic program and its phenomenal 100% college acceptance rate for graduates. BRAVO!
Annapolis is also home to the United States Naval Academy.
Stock Photo by Roy Frankiz
But, did you know the academy isn’t the oldest college in town? That distinction belongs to St. John’s College, a private liberal arts school founded in 1696 – originally known as King William’s School.
Inquiring minds ask, who was King William?
The school was probably not named after King William I, also known as William the Conquerer, since he was better known for bastardly stuff [son of the unmarried Duke Robert I of Normandy and his mistress Herleva]. Oh, and he died in 1087.
Another unlikely namesake was his son William II, aka Rufus (seriously!), who died in 1100 – shot in the back with an arrow and killed while hunting in the New Forest in Hampshire. The incident was probably an assassination, orchestrated by the king’s younger brother, Henry, who promptly seized the English throne as King Henry I. Brutal family history.
Most likely the school was named after William III, aka Prince of Orange, who died in 1702 – not long after the school was founded. Winner, winner, chicken dinner. By the way Number 3 was married to his cousin, Queen Mary the II. If you have too much time on your hands, here’s a Britannica link to history of William III, King of Scotland, England and Ireland.
Don’t feel bad if you have never heard of the school, recent student enrollment was only 450. Fun facts: Four of the college founders signed the Declaration of Independence in 1776, namely Charles Carroll of Carrollton, William Paca, Thomas Stone, and Samuel Chase. George Washington visited the school in 1791, and Abraham Lincoln walked the grounds in 1865.
Happy Juneteenth.
On June 19, 1865, Union General Gordon Granger arrived in Galveston, Texas to enforce the Emancipation Proclamation issued by President Abraham Lincoln as of January 1, 1863. His action freed more than 250,000 people in Texas, officially ending slavery. It is scandalous that more than two years had elapsed.
Now a Federal Holiday, we hope you get out and enjoy the local parades and festivities. Here are a few shots from Annapolis (thanks, Gail!)
Annapolis parade
Let there be purple!
marching band
Something fun, and personal:
Comments Encouraged: Shoe Survey – How often do you replace your shoes? Do you write a start date (or perhaps a retire by date) on your shoes? Roger B?
For everyday shoes, a good rule of thumb is to replace them every 8-12 months, or when they show signs of wear and tear. For walking shoes, you might want to replace them every 3-6 months or 500 miles. Sort of like an oil change.
Worn soles? Look for flattened or uneven wear on the outsole. Inconvenient holes in the sole – that invite small pebbles – are also a very good clue …
Capt. Rick has a tough time letting go of his shoes, but he finally said a sad farewell to well worn friends.
photo by David Bernstein
Celebrating A Legend:
If you read our post about the Alaska Legend, Dan Seavey, consider joining in on a Zoom Event to honor his family.
June 21 – Celebration of Life for Alaska Legend, Dan Seavey – Join the Zoom call today (Saturday) at 1pm AKST/2pm PST/5pm EST
Who:The Seavey family invites all members of the Iditarod Nation to join online in honoring Dan Seavey’s life and legacy.
What: A celebration of life to honor Dan Seavey, recognizing his deep love for sled dogs and his passion for the history of Alaska’s Last Frontier. His contributions to the sport, culture, and the Iditarod are described as immeasurable.
When: Saturday, June 21st, 2025, at 1:00 p.m. AKST / 5:00 p.m. EST.
How to Join: The event will be held online via Zoom.
Founded in 1752, Portmouth, VA is home to the oldest, continuosly operating, naval shipyard in the US, the Norfolk Naval Shipyard – originally known as Gosport Shipyard. Established in 1767 under the British flag, it was scorched (shelled and then burned to the ground) during both the American Revolutionary War and the Civil War, then rebuilt, twice, shortly thereafter.
During World War II employment at the shipyard surged to nearly 43,000 workers – mostly women – as the navy built and repaired numerous war ships. Thank you ladies for your service! And Thank You Ray and Caryl.
Stock Photo by US Navy: Rivet heaters and passers.
Today the yard specializes in repairing, overhauling, and modernizing warships, including nuke subs. When you visit by boat or in person, look closely – as destroyers, oilers, cruisers, subs, frigates, aircraft carriers, and even an amphibious assault ship might be found in the Naval Station Norfolk.
Stock photo by Shelby West: USS Toledo (SSN 769)
As we floated by at 8 knots we saw aircraft carrier USS George H W Bush (CVN77) and USS Harry S. Truman (USS75).
Stock Photo by Shelby West: USS George H W Bush CVN 77
Stock Photo by Shelby West: USS Harry Truman (CVN 75)
and to give you perspective, that’s Slip Away approaching the USS Carter Hall (LSD50).
We also saw a training Rescue Operation with a very skilled helicopter pilot.
photo by Pat Clough, Slip Away.
Tidewater Yacht Marina, Crawford Bay, Portsmouth
Construction on the docks at Tidewater is done! In celebration of the annual Harbor Fest, we got to enjoy a low country boil. Sorry I did not take the photo sooner – the grill was originally overflowing with fresh corn, potatoes, sausage, crawdads, clams, shrimp and so much more. Boater’s: Click here to learn more about the Marina .
Low Country Boil
Port Haywood Lighthouse – Wolf Trap
We enjoyed smooth waters on our run from Portmouth to Deltaville.
Deltaville, Norview Marina
Found at the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, year round population is a paltry 1,100, yet, Deltaville has over 25 marinas!
Stingray Point
Ready for a fishy fable?
Sometime during the 17th century the english explorer Captain John Smith was fishing off a shoal at the tip of Deltaville. Yes, it was the infamous dude who reportedly loved Pocahantas; but not all historians agree on that report.
A young Pocahontas. Photo by Angela L. Daniel.
Sidebar – John and the Indian Princess met in 1607, when she was only 11. At 14 the Princess married Indian warrior Kocoum. In 1614, Pocahontas was kidnapped in a power move to end the first Anglo-Powhatan War, her husband Kocoum was murdered. Raped by her captors, the pregnant princess was later married to Englishman John Rolfe. Here’s a link to more of her story.
Notice it was the “first” war; just 8 years later the second war begins.
Continuing the Deltaville fish tale, Capt. Smith caught a large ray, that promptly stung him. Turns out a Cownose Ray has a venomous sting, leading Smith to believe death was imminent.
Miraculously, after the application of a “snake oil,” Smith survived – and then ate the offending ray, most likely sauteed in more oil. And that’s how the location earned the moniker Stingray Point.
Thank you to Tom and Pat for spoiling us at your summer respite, Norview Marina in Deltaville.
Norview Marina
The dinghy ride was fun! Thanks for letting Capt. Rick relax as a happy passenger. Here are a few photos from our ride.
We spotted another Sea Trek for B and B! This boat is in rough shape, but the name is very special.
Wondering what an Oyster boat looks like? This is Wolf Trap.
Lighthouse time!
Oyster Heaven
Roughly 30 minutes from the marina you will find Topping, VA. the location of the Merroir Tasting Room. This time we ordered double the oysters for the 4 of us – two dozen! Half Rappahannock River Oysters and half Olde Salts Oysters. Pat and Mike you were right – it was the Best oyster bar, so far! Curious where the oysters are from? Check here.
Virginia is the top oyster-producing state on the East Coast. 2023 was a record year, with over 700,000 bushels harvested. A little easy math: a bushel is about 100 oysters, so that’s 70 million oysters! The Rappahannock River in the Deltaville area is a key oyster-producing area; oh so delicioso.
Fun Facts: The maximum daily limit per commercial vessel is equal to the number of registered commercial fisherman licensees on board times eight bushels, with a cap of 24 bushels per vessel, per day, or 200 dozen oysters – far more than Tom and Pat and Rick and I could consume – although I think Mike, or Michelle might be willing to try! Apparently they also have limited fishing hours from Monday through Friday; giving the innocent oysters a relaxing weekend without the fear of being chilled and consumed.
Solomons, MD – Calverts
This stop was new to us.
The family run marina is BY FAR the best docking rates we have experienced. Ready? Transient docks are $1 per foot per day (yep) and power is $10. For our 52 KK, that was a total of $62. Hey Dave Lubs – the monthly rate is $14 per foot, plus power! I think that is better than Crisfield, MD.
There is a lovely pool, that appeared to be empty, until you zoom in to see one user enjoying the clean water :-)
There are fun places to visit nearby Calverts, like the Annmarie Sculpture Garden and Art’s Center, plus numerous other spots on Solomon’s Island, easily accessible if you launch your dinghy. We will explore more on our return journey.
A special Lighthouse for Caryl
Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse was built in 1875 and is still an active Beacon of Navigation. 150 years strong, it’s the only screw-pile lighthouse still standing at its original site. Isn’t she a beauty!
As we approached Annapolis I noticed this cargo ship – from this angle it appears a collision with the bridge is imminent. Capt Rick says it’s an optical illusion …
Given the history of this area, it gave me pause. Remember Baltimore, where the Francis Scott Key Bridge collapsed on March 26, 2024.Click here for an update on that fateful event, one year after the crash.
Annapolis, MD, finally!
Nearly ten weeks have elapsed since Tonto’s Reward departed Fort Myers – Reunited at last, Buttercup was VERY happy to see Gail.
After a long slow journey from Southwest Florida to Annapolis, Exhale will be decompressing in Annapolis for a short while. It’s also time to look for a dog groomer for Buttercup.
Looking a little shaggy, Peanut Buttercup
Celebrating Milestones
June 14, Happy Anniversary Paul and Celeste – Celebrating 50!
June 15 – Happy Father’s Day
June 17 – Birthday Harrison Wilder Bishop is two!
And now a word from the Captain:
Our previous travels on the Chesapeake have been rough [2018 once, 2021 twice and 2023 twice], souring our impression of this area. Each time, weather was NOT our friend, thus we did not experience the “magical allure” of the Chesapeake, as touted by so many of our boating friends.
To our surprise, the last three days of travel on the Chesapeake have been delightful, with calm waters and no more than the lightest bit of rain. We did have a bizarre “hatch” of ticks launch a full scale attack on the boat, but the ever vigilant efforts [of Capt. Rick] won out – as the pests were banished by a strong stream of water.
So far, our 2025 journey on the Chesapeake has softened our perception of this area. Perhaps there is a valid reason there are sooo many boaters here. Here’s to Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing.
Did you know the term “tar heel” was originally a literal reference? The phrase stems from laborers in the naval stores industry who distilled turpentine – from the sticky sap of pine trees – and burned pine boughs to produce tar and pitch. Many of the workers went barefoot during hot summer months, collecting tar on their heels. However, back then if you called someone a “rosin heel” or “tar heel” you were being less than nice.
Moving forward in history to the Civil War, Robert E. Lee turned the tide as he dubbed the North Carolina soldiers “tar heels” – making it an expression of pride. The term quickly spread, and North Carolina became widely known as the “Tar Heel State.”
Sometime around 1880, when the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill began competing in intercollegiate sports, the school adopted the now beloved “Tar Heels” as their official nickname. There you go Gary Ralph! So proud!
Carolina Beach, NC
Located at the north end of Carolina Beach, we tied up across from “The Barge.” Open 7 days a week from noon to 9, the very popular floating bar is actually 3 recycled cargo containers, riveted together on a barge! Made in the USA.
Inside the ground floor cargo container you find yet another recycled beauty – once a gorgeous wooden boat named “Myralu”, it is now brilliantly repurposed as a bar!
Fun Fact: You can buy a 20 foot, 30 foot, or a 40 foot container, fully equipped as a tiny house, available on Amazon. For real. check it out!
Wrightsville Beach, NC; Bridge Tender Marina
This is the BIGGEST fresh water lobster! This young man was a proud lobster dude.
Hello again to Linda and Mark Cardone – thanks for the tomato plant!
Swansboro, NC; Church Street Town Dock
In the past we stayed at the Casper marina (hello to Craig Adford and Sideways). That marina is convenient but it has dreadful fixed docks. Thanks to a tip from a new friend this time we enjoyed the floating docks at the Swansboro town docks!
Boaters Tip: Transient Boaters – 26 ft. or larger have priority at the Church Street Town Dock.click here for more from the city dock page; Beware: During tidal transitions, a strong current runs parallel with shoreline, making it a challenge to dock.
Incorporated in 1783, the small town was originally spelled Swannsborough, named after politician Samuel Swann who was a Speaker in the North Carolina House of Commons. Sometime later – presumably well after he died – the name was changed to Swansboro.
This adorable city is known for it’s fishing tournaments. The most famous is the Big Rock Blue Marlin Tournament. In 2024 there were 302 boats participating – you read that right!! Fishing teams were competing for a staggering total purse of $7,562,700. By the end of the tourney the top three teams each won over $1.8 million! The winning marlin was 516 lbs. Look at this crowd – OMG.
internet photo lifted from TheBigRock.com
The 67th annual tournament is scheduled for June 6-15, 2025 (happening now!)
Here’s a fun project – artsy manhole covers for Caryl.
We made new friends, meet retired pilots Tom Matovich and Pat Clough.
That’s one dozen fresh oysters – about to be consumed.
They run a beautiful Selene 53, Slip Away.
Oriental, NC
Yet another quaint town on the ICW
Hello Capt. Rick, enjoying a familiar shady tree.
Belhaven, NC
Belhaven is one of my favorite stops. If you stay at River Forest the marina provides free golf carts. First come, first serve, you can take a spin around the town, get provisions, and go to the one of the many nearby restaurants.
– we found a new coffee shop on the main drag. What a great name :-)
Make your reservations early, they quickly fill up. Call, or Text your request to this Phone: (252) 945-3899
A unique opportunity for wine enthusiasts, instead of a wine list there is beautiful temperature controlled room; just pick out your bottle and take it to your table! You can also buy a few bottles to take home.
Spoon River Wine Room
for Alisha and Holly
Coinjock, NC
We pulled away from the dock at 0605. Moan. The run was ten hours, a total of 76 nautical miles. For us, that’s a long day. We were meeting up with Slip Away and a gaggle of boats. As Pat Clough said, apparently the migration is NOT over!
If you are familiar with this stop you know they serve prime rib, which we typically enjoy. This time, to my absolute delight, the dinner special was soft shelled crab – possibly the best I have ever had! For Donna Wallace – the side was a baked sweet potato. Also delish.
Celebrating Milestones:
Birthdays: June 9 – sister Frances; Sandy de Heer; June 10 – cousin Debra McGhan
Speedy Recovery wishes to Holly Pilato-Scharnweber
Anniversary: Paul and Celeste Amish celebrating 50 years!
June 7 – National Donut Day; go ahead and indulge! Fun Fact: National Donut Day or National Doughnut Day – celebrated by the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and the UK – is on the first Friday of June of each year. The Salvation Army established National Donut Day in 1938 to honor the organization’s Donut Lassies and Donut Girls who served donuts and other snacks to soldiers during World War I.
It was a delicious Charleston Bloody Mary – the perfect breakfast on a rainy sunday morning! Look at those yummy olives! We recommend the Blind Tiger! 36 Broad St, Charleston, SC 29403; check out the critter friendly patio dining.
Fun historic trivia from their website: The term “Blind Tiger” was coined in the late 1800’s to describe the illicit drinking and gambling establishments rebeliously opening their doors as temperance legislation swept across the country. The first “Blind Tigers” in South Carolina sprung up in 1893 as a defiant rebuttal to the “Dispensary” laws.
Welcome to new boater friends, Hilary and Duane Steinroeder on Rightview, yes, you can find her on AIS now!
Thanks to Hilary, we found Rainbow Row. It was worth the walk, although it would have been nice to skip the drenching down pour!
Spanning from 79-107 E Bay St, Charleston, SC, Rainbow Row is famous for the longest intact stretch of 18th-century Georgian row houses. The houses are joined by common walls, but the roof lines – and the colors – vary. Local Legend suggests the bright palette was intended as an aid to navigation, to help drunken sailors determine which house they were supposed to sleep in!
We tied up at Leland Oil, excited to connect again with Tiki Queen. We have been friends with Karen and Leland McClellan since we did the loop in 2018. Thank you both for inviting us to your sweet home, designed by the ever young, ever talented Leland.
This brick treatment is called weeping mortar. Zoom in and you can see the bricklaying technique that intentionally allows the mortar to seep out. More than just aesthetic (yes, I think it looks REALLY cool), the method prevents water from infiltrating the foundation and basement – you are very clever Leland!
Check out their garden – with an abundance of amazing veggies and fruits.
Thank you Karen and Lee for spoiling us with an unbelievable shrimp dinner.
FRESH McClellanville shrimp, prepared by Karen McClellan. Yummy.
Ready for more shrimp stories? Did you know that McClellanville was one of the many back drops for the 1994 oscar winning Forrest Gump – including the devastated shrimp fleet that smashed ashore? Click here to watch the very short but very memorable Bubba Gump shrimp scene from Forrest Gump (1994) – brilliantly based on the true story of Hurricane Carmen (1974), which destroyed every shrimping boat in Bayou La Batre except for one boat – the Jenny [YES, the surviving boat was really named the Jenny!!]. Forrest Gump fans remember the lovely Jenny (Robin Wright).
Georgetown is quaint, with fun local stores and excellent restaurants. Looking for customized embroidery? Try the Harbor Shop in Georgetown, where K.K. whipped up these hats for us.
We are happy to report the George Hotel is finished. We heard the food is amazing, but it’s a little pricey.
Wacca Wache (WW) Marina
Outriggers Bar & Grill (at the edge of the marina) is under new management with a delightful upgrade in the menu as the kitchen offers a nice selection of fresh fare.
You can sit inside, or bring your dog(s) and sit under the massive tree.
Boater’s Tip – Marina prices (per foot) and fuel prices (per gallon) at WW are OFTEN the lowest in the region. Call ahead and check! The staff is skilled and their banter is amusing – all good clean fun. If you time it right, there is live music under the majestic shade tree. We strongly recommend this stop.
Myrtle Beach Yacht Club
Finally, a lighthouse for our subscribers. This stop reminds us of loyal crew member Craig Adford and fellow looper Bruce Peck, SeaTrek. Sorry Bruce, no lemon drop martinis this time.
Southport Morningstar
Well hello Tra Sea! Thanks, Tim, for meeting up on the one whistle.
Tim Harris, Tra Sea, named for Tracy Harris (not pictured)
Southport, NC
photo by Linda Palmer
Say hello to Mark Cardone, Rick’s very FAVORITE neighbor, who used to live across the alley from us in Belmont Shore, CA, lovingly referred to as his “brother from another mother”.
After escaping the hustle and bustle of CA, Mark and Linda have created a serene oasis
surrounded by deer, which Linda definitely feeds!
Although Buttercup wasn’t too sure about the cats
we enjoyed the Friday (usually Sunday) gravy.
Mark Cardone, Mary S, Capt. Rick, Linda Palmer and Buttercup
Celebrating Milestones: Birthdays – May 29, Joe Solari (80 young) and Doug Belknap; May 31, Pamela Ledward; June 1, Craig Adford, Mark Marlow and June Bug Skyllar Gill; June 3, Lorrie Swink
We stopped at our final Florida Council Club – located at the northern tip of Oyster Bay Harbor, in north east Florida – Oyster Bay (OB) Yacht Club. True to their name, we confirmed OB serves Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc.
But no, Gail, we did not get to enjoy one of our favorite white wines since the yacht club was closed to visitors and members – reserved for a wedding. A big thanks to OB club members from M/V BadLad, Kemper and Anne Harr, who gave us a personal tour of the community. Congrats on your new Sabre!
At some point, the wedding party came to us! This photo is for Phil, our favorite wedding crasher.
Georgia on my mind
We said goodbye to Florida, for the summer, followed by a sweet hello to Georgia. This is for Mark C, a perfect fit for his smooth voice. Go ahead, sing along.
Ray Charles – Georgia on my mind.
Jekyll Island, GA
Some of our boater friends (DB) prefer to blast past GA. Not us. We enjoy the slow journey of the ICW, preferring to stop along the way. Just look at that smooth water! Full disclosure, this Jekyll Island photo was taken shortly after a formidable thunder and lighting storm.
Boater’s Tip: Zachry’s Riverhouse is found just above the marina, tucked between the trees. The food is good, and the beer is cold.
Zachry’s taxidermied critters are often dressed for the season. Not entirely sure what they are celebrating this time …
Driftwood Beach, Jekyll Island
At the end of the island we discovered ghost crabs. This little character was roughly 3 inches in total.
The ghost crab has phantom-like moves. Their pale coloration, which matches the sand, makes them difficult to spot, and they can quickly disappear into their burrows at the slightest disturbance, capable of moving at speeds up to 10 mph – that’s faster than Exhale at her best speed!
Thanks to Samantha (boss lady at Jekyll) we took the courtesy car to Driftwood Beach, aka the boneyard. Notice the massive trees compared to Capt. Rick, who is slowly walking by!
She was a Massive Tree!
The beach’s apocalyptic landscape made it a unique filming location for the long running (2010-2022) TV show “The Walking Dead”, and it was the backdrop for a plethora of movies, like “The Tomorrow War” 2021 with Chris Pratt, “X-Men:First Class” 2011, “Red One” (2024), and more.
Here’s a shimmering moon photo for Dave Lubs from my new iPhone.
taken with an iPhone Pro 16
Brunswick, Golden Isles, GA
The marina was very quiet. Just a short run from Jekyll to Brunswick, time for a fun boat name. Embracing Diversity with our critter lovers, this is for Ynot!!
CatDog, look at the hybrid logo!
Boater’s Tip, when you check in tell the dockmaster the number of passengers on board to get a $5 coupon per person for the adorable Coastal Coffee shoppe, where they serve a delicious chicken salad croissant sandwich.
Kilkenny, GA
This is for Tracy Harris, and Lola, who have a love hate relationship with this stop. A few sections of the dock have recently been repaired, but it’s still a wobbly walk from our boat to the shore.
A little history: Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Kilkenny plantation dates back to 1733; once known for summer fishing vacations, the property changed hands many times. The main house is still standing! Overlooking the river, she’s located directly above the marina.
Kilkenny Plantation
The magnificent structure was neglected for decades, until Henry Ford acquired it in 1930 – properly restoring it as a private home. Click here if you want to learn more. No worry, speed readers – it’s okay to skip the Wikipedia history lesson and just enjoy the photos.
Sunset over Kilkenny, GA
Isle of Hope, Savannah, GA
Traveling north to Savannah, the sky is befitting at the Isle of Hope. Sit back, relax, enjoy the beauty of Georgia.
Boaters Tip: This family run marina provides two courtesy cars – making it easy to explore and provision. Enjoy the food at several nearby restaurants, or drive to the magic of Savannah!
These whimsical critters can be found at at the Driftaway Cafe
for Caryl
Here’s a garden sloth for Alisha,
and some googly eyes for my birthday boy, Zach Silverstein.
Hello Beaufort, SC!
Beaufort (with a view) is a preferred stop! Boaters – tie up securely with sturdy lines, the marina gets a little rough. Kudos to Capt Rick and Tom Matovich who rescued a certain boat that tried to escape.
Within easy walking distance from the Safe Harbor marina is a quaint town. With a lovely array of boutiques, there are numerous retail options on Bay Street – and on the various side streets – including a great spot for a relaxing pedicure :-) Nail Bar on Bay. Walk ins accepted, or book on line.
Old Bull Tavern, Beaufort, SC
And, Beaufort is home to Capt Rick’s all-time favorite restaurant along the ICW. Located at 205 West St, Old Bull Tavern is a must!
We were thrilled to see Ashley Moore again, our fav – thanks for remembering us – you look amazing! Can’t believe your little one is approaching 5. Congrats.
On the topic of amazing, introducing McDreamy eyes Derek (for all of you Grey’s Anatomy fans), co-owner and host extraordinaire; thanks for the amazing strawberry corn cake!
Who else has been there: definitely Jeff and Dr. Patty North, Trevor, Tim and Tracy Harris, and Gail and David Bernstein; any others?
We left the dock today at 06:15, as the sun was gently rising. Unexpected bonus for the early start time – on the VHF radio we heard a distinguished, familiar voice – shout out to Lorrie and Rodger Swink on Reality, ships passing at first light!
Next Stop: Charleston, SC
Happy Memorial Day everyone. A sad thank you to all those military men and women who we have lost. Here’s a little photo of my father, who served during WWII.
Lawrence Straley, circa 1945
Celebrating Milestones:
Anniversaries – May 25, Gail & David; May 26, Jeff & Dr. Patty North; May 27, Carly & Brandon
Birthdays – May 25, Zach Silverstein; May 28, Scott Ginsburg; Brennyn; May 29 Doug Belknap; and May 31, Pamela Ledward.
During our slow travels on Exhale we love spotting marine life. We have seen awe-inspiring whales, playful dolphins, resplendent turtles, formidable alligators, flying fish, and splendid manatees.
Over the past 9 years we have stayed at the Manatee Pocket marina in Stuart so many times that we have lost count. BUT here’s what I can report, with full confidence: number of manatee sightings in Manatee Pocket = zero, zilch and nada.
On a positive note, at low tide, Buttercup found a new vantage point, she’s sitting on the tv shelf (the tv lowers behind the couch).
Buttercup, keeping a close watch, as the world goes by.
Boater’s Tip: Mariner’s Cay Marina is often windy. With fixed docks, be prepared to tie up without assistance. Consider using Sunset Marina, which is easy walking distance to the bustling little downtown of Stuart.
For us, a visit to Stuart equals time with Marty and Anders, fondly referred to as Meanders! Because of them we purchased our first trawler, NP4906, delivered in April 2016. Keeping with our special tradition, we enjoyed a fabulous Thai meal, at Krua Thai (click here) including the best curried duck ever!
Hey Caryl, are you familiar with Big Fred, the staghorn fern? Located in Titusville FL, he measures a total of: 88.5 inches in diameter (that’s almost 7.5 feet) and 278 inches in circumference (That’s 23.16 feet around). For more random details about Big Fred, click here.
Not sure if this Stuart fern has a name, but thought you might appreciate the photo of this healthy, mega fern.
Vero Beach Yacht Club
Shout out to the general manager, head chef and head bartender at Vero Beach Yacht Club for the friendly chatter and bubbly on Mother’s Day. Boater’s Tip, if the yacht club cannot accommodate your vessel, we recommend you stay at the adjoining Vero Beach city dock where you will find plenty of lizards. This multi-colored lizard is a Peter’s rock agama, also known as a rainbow lizard.
Eau Gallie, Melbourne FL
Melbourne is well worth the stop, although the Eau Gallie Yacht Club is closed on Mondays. We enjoyed reconnecting with consummate sailors Brenda and Phil Spletter – another day of spoiled attention for Buttercup!
Brenda Spletter and Buttercup
After hours of heavy rain, it was a quiet evening as Exhale sat all alone on the south dock. Sorry, PhilS, unlike our adventures in Rockport, there was no opportunity to crash another wedding in a certain yellow slicker. We can try again the next time we meet up!
Eau Gallie south dock
Red Sunset for Finny
This is for you, little sister.
Smyrna Yacht Club
How old is this club? Dating back to 1928 it is fast approaching a 100-year milestone!
Smyrna Yacht Club made history in 1932 as the host of an international sailing regatta with participants from the US, England, France, Germany, Italy, Sweden & Cuba. The grand prize was the tall silver Lipton Cup Trophy, designed by Sir Thomas Lipton, which is now permanently on display in the Club’s trophy case, it is the only one in Florida.
History Lesson: Lipton® Tea traces back to Sir Thomas Lipton (1848 – 1931). After opening his first grocery stores in Glasgow in 1871, he saw the profit potential in this deliciously aromatic beverage and bought a number of tea fields in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka). His key to overwhelming success was direct sales – pissing off the Brits when he refused to sell through their middlemen at “tea auctions.” Lipton’s trademark slogan was “Direct from the Tea Gardens to the Teapot” which also meant a significant $ gain into his Lipton bank account.
Fun architectural detail about the club, I like the “mushroom” accent found in the grand entry-way!
The club logo, a signature sideways “S”, is for Ray Houle, fondly referred to as “Sideways” for a certain boating maneuver, without thrusters, that he absolutely mastered!
Admiral Buttercup liked this stop!
Halifax River, Daytona Beach
And now a photo for the Aussies – look at that light in our salon! The stowaway is ever present. Come join us!
We had an exceptional evening at Halifax River Yacht Club. Capt Rick was very excited to be served liver and onions, for our subscribers it’s one of those menu items that makes you smile, or, very likely it makes you cringe; thus it’s not easy to find! It’s also a dish that is not easy to prepare – be assured, the chef at Halifax got it right!!
Thinking of Carol Lee. Rest in Peace.
Camouflaged Tesla tank. Starry Night wrap makes it almost tolerable. Almost.
Palm Coast Marina
And now for a well disguised Yuengling, aka PPW, according to David Hendry.
Boater’s Tip – the 5th Element serves up fresh, delicious, authentic Indian food. Disregard the never ending bollywood dancers streaming in the background. Worth the walk to the European Village Palm Coast.
Beach Marine, Jacksonville.
Boater’s Tip: Windward, The Wharf is so unremarkable I did not take any photos, but we DO appreciate the floating docks at Beach Marine, finally.
These fire red flowers are for Alisha, Holly, and Zach – just because. And that’s a wrap for this week!
Celebrating Milestones:
Happy Birthday Chris Moles! 63 on Monday, May 19;
Celebrating Life: Carol Lee Mayo. You are loved!
Next Up:
Oyster Bay Yacht Club, at Fernandina Beach. I don’t expect to find the Oyster Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc that Gail and I enjoy, so much, since the grapes are grown in the Wairau Valley within Marlborough, New Zealand. But one can hope!
Dan Seavey – the Patriarch of the Seaveys – passed away this week. A young 87, he is already missed.
Dan and Shirley Seavey
Words cannot express the loss of this great man. Deepest condolences to my high school friends – Dan and Shirley‘s three children – Mitch, Tracie and Darian Seavey.
Dan’s greatest pride was his family. His son Mitch is a 3-time Iditarod champ; he holds the Iditarod race speed record of 8 days 3 hours 40 minutes and 13 seconds to cover 1049 miles by dog team, from Anchorage to Nome. His team’s running speed averages about 8 miles per hour, very similar to our trawler speed. Mitch also holds the Iditarod record as the oldest winner, crossing under the Nome arch at ages 45, 53 and 57!
Mitchell Blake Seavey
Dan Seavey’s grandson Dallas (Mitch’s son) holds the record for the most wins, a total of 6 as of 2024!
Dallas Seavey
In the words of the great patriarch: “Take care of your dogs, and they’ll take care of you.”
In 2016, Dan was inducted into the Iditarod Hall of Fame for his work as a patriarch, a pioneer, and a preservationist for the Iditarod. Racing the Iditarod was more than a hobby for the Seavey family, it was their life. Dan was instrumental in getting the race started. By 2025 there were 4 generations of Seaveys involved in the great race.
The Iditarod provided the following in his honor.
Personal Connection: Dan Seavey was my favorite teacher at Seward High in Seward, Alaska. To pass the final exam of his “Environmental Ed” class we had to build our own shelter, start a fire without matches, melt snow for water, and then spend a frigid winter night on the snow pack! It was a memorable experience under the stars. Although some of us were actually within walking distance of home, no one dared to leave, so everyone passed!
In 2015, during an extended visit of my AK family {3 of this bloggers 4 siblings, plus numerous offspring, still live there}, Susan and Mike Gillespie, Capt Rick and I had the privilege of spending time with the Iditaride dogs in Seward. We also spent time at the homestead of Dan and Shirley, his sweet wife of more than 59 years; I recall Shirley served us her amazing lemon cake! Shirley passed in 2017.
A truly iconic steamboat, the original African Queen is docked in the Marina Del Mar Marina in Key Largo, FL, which is part of the Holiday Inn Complex at mile marker 100. Yes, she could use a coat of paint!
No, the classic movie was NOT filmed in Hollywood or in Florida, it was in fact filmed in the Belgian Congo also known as German East Africa. The boat was transported to Key Largo in 1982. A few years ago we blogged about spotting her on the waters, in the distance. This time, we were able to get up close to take a proper photo.
RANDOM HISTORY LESSON: Curious about the boat? The Congo African Queen was a 30-foot steam boat built of riveted sheet iron in 1912 in the United Kingdom for service in Africa on the Victoria Nile and Lake Albert – where the African Queen was filmed in 1950/51. Originally named Livingstone, she was built for the British East Africa Railway and was actively used from 1912 to 1968.
In 1951, the classic movie won 4 oscars [a special year for more than one subscriber], and, the film left an indelible print in the minds of many. We are curious, what’s your recollection? Do you smile with approval at the feisty courage of Kate, or do you recoil from the thought of leech infested waters? I relish in the memory of watching the movie with a special someone. Comments are encouraged!!
If you have not seen it yet, it’s well worth streaming (try Amazon Prime or YouTube). Here’s the IMDB description of African Queen, loosely based on actual events: In WWI East Africa, a gin-swilling Canadian riverboat captain {Humphrey Bogart} is persuaded by a strait-laced English missionary {Katherine Hepburn} to undertake a trip up a treacherous river and use his boat to attack a German gunship.
Key Largo American Legion
Post #333 is roughly 500 yards from the PilotHouse Marina. Open to the public, we stopped in for a very inexpensive delightfully cold beer. On the wall were post plaques from every state, including Alaska. Stepping inside the old post was a nostalgic moment for me because my dad, a WWII vet, belonged to American Legion Post #5 in Seward Alaska. It was easy walking (or stumbling) distance from our house. Do you remember, little sister Finny?
While drinking a cold beer I wondered, was it a good time to learn the NATO phonetic or Pilot’s alphabet? If you are a pilot, like CraigAdford, or a SeaBee, like Sideways, using the pilot’s alphabet is standard radio chatter. For others it’s a way to sound cool. Let’s be cool together.
Post #333 tribute to the Air Force.
A heartfelt thank you to all of our Vets for their service, and for their sacrifice.
Kentucky Derby Time
On Saturday, the Run for the Roses reminded us of our Kentucky based friends. This year the race was a mud-filled track, what a mess! Congrats to Jockey Junior Alvarado and Sovereignty for your first win!
A Blast from past Derbys, hello Gail Bernstein, Dale Morgan and Ann Hughes
F-1 Races in Miami
Do you favor the racing team of Red Bull? McClaren? Mercedes? Whoever your prefer, the Formula 1 Miami Grand Prix was projected to have around 284,000 attendees, a record high. We often follow the races on F1-TV, typically cheering for a certain team – that did not fare well in this race.
Why did we really care?? because of the massive influx of boaters for the three-day event – think LOTS of mega yachts – the Miami marinas were booked well in advance and well after the May 2-May 4 event. That means we had to skip staying at Miami for now. Tip for boaters – research the local events – to either join in or avoid.
Key Biscayne
We spent one night in Key Biscayne, where the sunsets are spectacular. This is for Finny.
Miami Skyline
AFTER the crowd cleared from the Miami F-1 race, we slowly traversed to Lauderdale, enjoying the familiar city skyline.
Lauderdale – exquisite family time!!
Buttercup was eagerly awaiting dinner guests at the Lauderdale Yacht Club!
Dinner Guests – soon come!!
Special guests included the insanely talented Alisha Silverstein and her highly-skilled genius brother Zach Silverstein (this blogger’s A to Z), who are working on a new tv show based in Miami. The exquisite Holly Pilato-Scharnweber, loyal Buffalo Bills fan, and former Commodore’s Ball escort, is also on the crew.
We were very excited to host dinner on board: grilled steak (perfectly rare), Alaskan smoked salmon, roasted potatoes, fresh veggies, and a yummy salad.
Zach Silverstein, Alisha Silverstein, Holly Pilato; dinner on Exhale
MORE family stuff, just in time for Mother’s Day. Proud momma plug: In December of 2024 Alisha, Holly and Zach wrapped an incredible movie – filmed in Morocco. Last year, this blogger witnessed the phenomenal setting first hand.Final Production efforts are now underway by Angel Studios. In Theaters beginning Dec 19, 2025, let’s go see Zero A.D.!! Here’s the trailer. https://youtu.be/vWVQYdAUvb8?feature=shared. Before kings and empires feared Him, a tyrant sought to erase Him. Click here for a Special Cinema Moment, introducing Zero A.D.
Thank you to all three for making the drive to visit us in Lauderdale! Buttercup said, “Come Back again soon”.
Wishing someone would come play.
North Palm Beach Safe Harbor – If you travel inside on the Intracoastal Waterway, “ICW”, there are 21 bridges between Lauderdale and North Palm Beach. No surprise, Captain Rick efficiently analyzed the opening times and the distance between each bridge. With a 25-foot air draft, we needed 18 openings.
bridge scheduleCareful
Note, if there is a tug with a commercial barge the bridge tender will open on demand, off schedule. Thanks to the calcs from Capt Rick, we only had to wait for one bridge. Was it a lazy operator, or was it because of a tug – we don’t know.
Hope Sound bridge opening
Boaters Tip: listen up on VHF Channel 9!
If you opt to stay “outside”, aka along the ocean shore, you are subject to wind and waves – but there are NO bridges. You might already know, Tonto’s Reward greatly prefers to rock ‘n roll on the wild side.
Stuart – Manatee Pocket aka Mariners Cay
We have stopped here, many times, to visit Meanders. Delightful friends, easy stop, worth the trip.
MILESTONES: Birthdays – May 8, Danielle Ginsburg; May 11, Michele May Jackson; Anniversay – May 7, Ray and Caryl celebrated 21 years!
Congrats to Pope Leo. Cool name (same as our oldest grandson!)
Feels like a Willy Wonka moment when you go backwards to go forward. Strike that. Reverse it. Or maybe it’s a Paula Abdul occasion “two steps forward and two steps back, because opposites attract.”
As Tyler Hendry would say, “ACTUALLY”, the decision to traverse south was driven by the US Army Corp of Engineers, as they intentionally drain Lake Okeechobee, eliminating the option to travel from our home port in Florida in a more direct, linear fashion – to go north.
Wondering how to pronounce Okeechobee? For Brenda – it sounds like one of your mom’s favorite songs – Okie from Muskogee – another classic for Tumbleweed! As one fan quipped on the YouTube website, “Today’s country music stars are not even qualified to shine this mans {Merle Haggard’s} boots”
HERE’S A LITTLE FLORIDA HISTORY: Why do they drain the lake? In 1928 the devastating Okeechobee Hurricane overflowed the lake and drowned 2,500 people! To date it was the WORST hurricane in Florida’s history.
Under the direction of President Herbert Hoover, the feds rapidly stepped in to make sure Lake Okeechobee never overflowed again. Completed in record time, prior to the Wall Street crash of 1929, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built a huge earthen dike around Lake Okeechobee.
Herbert Clark Hoover (August 10, 1874–October 20, 1964), mining engineer, humanitarian, U.S. Secretary of Commerce, and 31st US President.
Now the Lake is drained, each year, in anticipation of the rainy, hurricane season. Seasonal drought in Florida plays a major role in the water levels, but, the annoying engineers are generally in control of the navigational depth.
Relevant boater data: There are two charted courses for boaters, the shortest path cuts across the lake, the second runs along the rim. In the past we have successfully taken both routes. As of April 29 the navigational depth of Route 1 was 5.26 feet; Route 2 was a mere 3.46 feet. The draft of Exhale is almost 5 feet – so that means our boat could dramatically run aground in the rocks. Not a good day.
When we can’t cross Lake O, we take the long way around, heading south from Fort Myers, along the west coast of Florida to eventually go north, along the eastern seaboard.
Fun facts: Lake Okeechobee is the largest lake in Florida (it covers over 450,000 square acres, or 730 square miles) Not so fun fact: Lake Okeechobee is the most polluted lake in Florida. Why? Agricultural runoff, fertilizer in particular, and urban stormwater, leading to algal blooms and high levels of phosphorus. When the lake is drained, the algae thrives in shallow, sun drenched waters.
is there any Good News? Sure – the Lake is home to over 9,300 thriving alligators, some estimates run as high as 30,000 gators in the peak season. Random fact: Herbert Hoover’s son (Allan Henry Hoover) had a gator as a pet.
Boater’s Tip: Check the depth before you go … Here’s the official website from US Army Corp of Engineers https://w3.saj.usace.army.mil/h2o/currentLL.shtml. The Navigational Depth changes daily! And, when the weather is rough, the trough of each wave is dangerously low.
Let’s Travel South!
St. Charles Yacht Club “SCYC”, Fort Myers Florida
Our first stop was maybe an hour in transit, to St. Charles Yacht Club. It’s a place where the lovely Miss Madi Mitchell, SCYC Food and Beverage Manager, delivers Rick’s favorite drink before he has sat down. Cheers to you Madi – best of luck as you finish your studies!
Hello Ray and Caryl – Thanks for joining us at our first stop! It is always a pleasure to spend time with both of you! Buttercup appreciates the attention.
Ray Houle aka Sideways, Caryl Moulder and Buttercup at SCYC
Marco Island Marina
The Marco Island club renovation is done! About those gators – here’s a clever boat name from that marina.
Sea U Later, alligator!
Cape Sable Anchorage
We love to anchor out, especially when there are no other boats around. Cape Sable is highly recommended for a star-filled night.
Serene and Quiet!
Safe Harbor Marathon
Boaters take your swim suits – the pool is Capt. Rick’s favorite! Shout out to Donna Wallace and Rebecca Hill who have been known to enjoy the refreshing walk-in bath.
Inspired by David Bernstein’s long walks, we hiked to the Marathon Yacht Club as a tribute to members George and Pat Hospodar. Dinner was fantastic – followed by a spectacular sunset.
Sunset over Marathon
This is for Tyler and Morgan.
Shark attack!
Pilot House Marina, Key Largo
We will be in Key Largo for three days. The marina restaurant is good, the Happy Hour menu is popular! Don’t be fooled by the open stools, by the time we left the place was full.
It’s also a popular spot for fishing charters.
CELEBRATING MILESTONES:
Birthdays: Belated birthday April 26, Andre Walker; May 8, Danielle Ginsburg
Anniversary: May 7, Caryl and Ray
NEWSFLASH. NEWSFLASH. NEWSFLASH.
Morse Code test: . . . – – – . . .
USCG – Pon Pon, Pon Pon – Urgent Need for Assistance
Typically the blog ends after milestones – but THIS is a really important update from Soundings magazine.
The Coast Guard has proposed removing hundreds of buoys and navigational markers from the Northeast.
The proposal for Maine: over 150 buoys are to be removed or altered!
PLEASE TAKE QUICK ACTION: Send an email to the Coast Guard today!
They will be accepting comments on the proposal until June 13. All comments must be made in writing. Refer to Project No. 01-25-015. Your E-mail must be sent to: D01-SMB-DPWPublicComments@uscg.mil.
To make it easy for our subscribers, here’s the email we sent, PLEASE feel free to cut and paste and resend:
Don’t be fooled by “budget cutting” excuses. Removing the buoys and navigational markers costs manpower time and money you don’t need to spend!
It’s simple – buoys and navigational markers prevent collisions, grounding and human tragedy. They save lives.
It is true there are lots of apps out there that boaters use – BUT the red and green markers are the ultimate guide.
The Coast Guard has seven basic missions: Search and Rescue “SAR”, Aids to Navigation “ATON”, Ice Breaking and Ocean Science, Marine Inspection, Law Enforcement, Military Readiness, and the seventh, Semper Paratus-Always Ready for the next mission.
Follow your mission! Protect the mariners on our waterways today. The great Jimmy Buffet understood, and warned his boaters to “make sure to keep it between the navigational beacons”.
Now it’s up to you, USCG, to keep the beacons in place.
In 1963, The Rooftop Singers got it right with their No 1 single:
Walk right in, sit right down Daddy, let your mind roll on
Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout a new way of walkin’ Do you want to lose your mind? Walk right in, sit right down Daddy, let your mind roll on
This YouTube clip is for David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward and for Doug and Dana Belknap, M/V Tumbleweed :-)
How is this folksy song relevant? Drum Roll please … Exhale now has a walk-in engine room! Feeling dazed and Confused? Yes, Dave Lubs, we are still married, and yes, contrary to what I told you repeatedly – we sold our magnificent 2021 North Pacific 49 Euro Pilothouse. New subscribers – if you are not familiar THIS is/was our boat, https://northpacificyachts.com/boats/49-e-pilothouse/
Backing up a little bit in time, selling was a difficult decision but, drastic action was prompted by Father Time – you see, Capt. Rick cringed every time he merely contemplated the hot yoga required in the 40-inch high engine room. The captain was tired of crawling around on his knees to perform the daily engine room checks, it was just too much pain for those achy knees and hips.
One night he sighed deeply as he announced – it was time to give up boating.
Buttercup was in shock – what about those sunny days on the water, most important she did not want to lose out on the dog treats and belly rubs from Gail Bernstein! I was dismayed at the prospect of losing our floating home. For the past 8 years we have escaped the muggy summer heat of Florida, spoiled by the splendid respite of cool northern waters.
So, I asked Capt. Rick one simple question – why don’t we buy a boat with a walk-in engine room???
Kadey Krogen 52 walk in engine room. Buttercup approved.
After several months of searching, Capt. Rick found the perfect fit. Similar in size and amenities to the North Pacific 49, BUT with a walk in engine room. Oh Yes!
We are proud to announce our boating adventures will continue (WooHoo!) since we now own a lightly used 2019 Kadey Krogen 52, formerly known as Papa Whiskey.
After a purging and renaming ceremony to appease Poseidon and the four wind gods (thanks, Gail and David), we enjoyed a brief shake down cruise to my all-time favorite waters – Pelican Bay – with Tonto’s Reward and Knot Dreaming (thanks Gary for bringing the delicious old fashioned!).
Knot Dreaming NP 44, Capt. Gary Ralph; Pelican Bay
Anchors Away! Introducing the new Exhale!!
Departing our home dock on Saturday, April 26, we are heading somewhere north for the summer months. For the first time in our boating career, we do not have a float plan – we will meander (that’s for you, Marty and Anders) at a turtle speed. Keep an eye out for our travels.
the new Exhale anchored in Pelican Bay, Florida – March 30, 2025.
Here’s the view from the pilothouse – looking great!
Capt Rick at the helm of the new Exhale.
CELEBRATING FRIEND AND FAMILY MILESTONES
April Birthdays: Ryan Mendoza, April 7 (the Big 50); Grandson Tyler J. Hendry, April 8 (9 years old!); April 10, Dale Morgan; April 13, Piper Jackson sweet 17; April 14, Meghan Reese; April 19, Cousin John Gill; April 22, Katrin Ericson; and April 27, Monica Babich.
Congrats on your new home, Caryl and Sideways! Join us soon.
Rest in Peace, Pope Francis.
Post Script – Don’t worry North Pacific family, the NP49-11 is in great hands. Soon to be known as Above Expectations, the new owners, Ron and Dr. Karen Oldano, are amazing people you should get to know!
New Owners: Ron and Dr. Karen Oldano
Finally, WELCOME to the new subscribers. If you like our whimsical blog, please give us a thumbs up, offer comments, and feel free to share with your friends!
Exhale on the Water 