New York skyline

Traveling south, the New York skyline was breathtaking under a blue sky. 

traveling south on the East River

Like a boomerang, Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder have returned!

Platinum Loopers Ray Houle (Sideways) and
Caryl Moulder with Maddie

You may recall we began the Maine Event with Craig and Maureen on board, connecting with Ray and Caryl on the waters of the Caloosahatchee River on our very first day.

First a little boat name history. At one time Caryl and Ray had a Nova called Houlegan. When we met, their Mainship was named “Houlegan, again.”  Now they have a Rosborough, called Lit’l Houlegan. Thankfully, the person who customizes their embroidered shirts and hats manages to keep it all perfectly straight.

Lit’l Houlegan

Brick, New Jersey

To our delight, they trailered their boat from Cape Coral, Florida then launched her at the home of renowned looper authors George and Pat Hospodar, giving us the chance to rendezvous in Brick, NJ.

Curious about Boomerangs?

New resource:, check it out! Curious folks might wonder, 1) do boomerangs always come back, 2) what are they used for, and 3) how old are they?

Other folks, might skip this section and move on down to the photos.

really old boomerang

First, you have to throw it correctly for it to return. What do you call a boomerang that doesn’t come back?  A stick.  Primary school humor.

Second, the natives of Australia used the boomerang to hunt animals in trees and bushes. Now the most popular use is sports leisure.

Australian hunting boomerang

Finally, when were boomerangs first used? Dating back over 10,000 years; originally the Aussie’s carved the hunting tool from bone or wood.

Bonus factoid, Guinness world record for longest boomerang throw is 1,401.5 feet. Held by an Aussie of course.

Brick, New Jersey

Back to our story. It was so much fun connecting with snowbirds George and Pat for a delightful evening of music and good food in their lovely home.

George and Pat

Dessert included cannoli and chips, thanks to Joey P.  It was decadent. 

Caryl and Ray

Manasquan River

Tied to the fuel dock we had the perfect vantage point of the official fish scales. This is a Sushi Grade Blue Fin Tuna, 189 lbs.

that’s a lot of sushi

The Largest Bluefin Tuna Ever Caught: 12 feet, 1,496 lbs., caught off Nova Scotia in 1979. Also impressive – the bluefin can swim 25 miles per hour, that’s 3 times the regular speed of Exhale.

Full Moon shining bright 8:24 pm, Manasquan River

Red Sky in the Morning – it was 6:35 am when we left the dock.

Red Sky – Sailor’s take warning

Havre de Grace

The red sky did not lie. It rained heavily in Havre de Grace.  Thanks again to Ray and Caryl who made this soggy stop delightful.


With Ray and Caryl on board we ventured to Annapolis, staying at one of the nicest marinas on this journey. 

Docked next to us was Noel. The family on board included 5-year-old James, and his 7-year-old brother, Troy William.  Both were extremely articulate, capable young fishermen.

James could be found fishing at the end of the dock by 7:30 am, with a life jacket over his dinosaur pajamas.  Clever layering since the pjs look pretty warm.

James age 5

Annapolis meant a lot of boat cleaning, in preparation for the Baltimore boat show.

Capt. Sideways, cleaning at the waterline

Thanks Ray for the boat scrub

Sandy – Best Blue Crab Cakes!

So what was the best part of Annapolis? Visiting with Sandy!!

Yes, this is the same Sandy who was on board Tonto’s Reward in Maine! She is also a beloved North Pacific owner, Road Trip is a rare 42.

She promised if we came to her home in Annapolis she would make us crab cakes. Let the record show her cakes were the best we had in Maryland, bar none.  Grilled to perfection. Generous lumps of crab, her secret ingredient was fresh basil.  Sooo delicious. Sandy really spoiled us!

Crab cakes, fresh corn, asparagus (for David B)
and london broil. courtesy of Chef Sandy.

Oh and Thanks for introducing us to OIB, the original iron bear.

Original Iron Bear (OIB) and Sandy

The next morning the boys were fishing again

James (5) and Troy William (7)

On the topic of crabs, thanks, Capt Rick, for passing on your cherished crab trap – those boys will put it to good use! We were touched when the handwritten notes were delivered to Exhale; these boys have exceptional parents.

Baltimore – Here We Come

Next Up – Baltimore Trawler Fest sponsored by Passage Maker – come visit! We will be in Baltimore from Sunday September 26 through Sunday October 3!! Slip A-31

Milestones: Birthdays – Bruce Peck, September 23; Lenore Bigsby, Sept 24; David Floyd (aka #8), Sept 27; Roger Berardinis;

Aussie Invasion

Heather and Mark Rutherford

We met Heather and Mark Rutherford, award-winning sailors, not too long after they acquired their trawler, the M/V Bushranger, a sturdy 38 foot Marine Trader.  Featured numerous times in our Great Loop posts we were VERY excited to reunite with our friends from Sydney, Australia.

First, what is a Bushranger?

Fun facts:  Thanks again to Wikipedia, we learned that Bushrangers were originally escaped convicts in the early years of the British settlement of Australia who used the bush as a refuge to hide from the authorities. In 1835, Charles Darwin recorded that a bushranger was “an open villain who subsists by highway robbery, and will sooner be killed than taken alive”

M/V Bushranger, Port Washington, NY

Better a “ranger” than a “whacker”

Similar to the common mashup of Tonto’s Revenge in the place of Tonto’s Reward, marinas tend to rename Bushranger, mistakenly calling her bushwhacker.  It’s not a good thing,

“Bushwhacker” was a Civil War term that designated the lowest and meanest type of guerrilla fighter, particularly the Confederates, who often hid in inaccessible places and ambushed Union troops.

Let the record show, our Aussie friends are neither “whackers” nor “gooses”, a popular Australian reference to anyone who is rude or behaves badly. Of course in Port Washington, there are plenty of Canada geese to be found.

They are salty Great Loop adventurers,

Red and Green Channel Markers

Heather captains the boat quite well, rarely running aground,

Heather Rutherford

and she makes the most delicious of breads (onion pull-a-parts).

Port Washington

The folks in Port Washington are very friendly, and the scenery is sweet.

Port Washington

Indian Food

We were delighted to return to Diwan. The food is fresh and flavorful. The owner remembered us (Gail and David!), noting we had returned with new friends.

Diwan, Port Washington

The renowned author of Volcanic Winter,

Get your copy of his book here:  Yes, Capt Rick is a character in the book!

Mark Rutherford, Penfold Chardonnay, Australia

Mark Rutherford, has great taste in wine and has mastered garlicky shrimp.

Before departing, Rick took Maddie for a morning stroll – look for her in the lower right corner of this photo.

As the geese fly overhead, Rick and Maddie walking at sunrise

Sadly, with geese flying overhead, we knew it was time to say goodbye to our sweet friends and head south.

Thanks for the Royal Wave!

Be on the lookout, they are, currently exploring the Long Island Sound.

Next Up: Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, ‘Lil Houlegan at Hoffman’s Marina – East (not west)!

Connecticut connections, Hail Yale!

Essex, CT

Essex Island, CT

Following Tonto’s Reward, we stayed at the tiny Essex Island (13 acres).

Essex Island Marina

An on-demand foot ferry (no vehicles) crosses the waterway to Essex – ride time: roughly 5 minutes.

David and Rick wait for the ferry

Essex, CT

Birdhouses are prevalent in Essex.  In an area where real estate taxes are excessive, it is benevolent to provide such exquisite housing for our feathered friends.

Hello Anders from Griswold Inn. 

Rick talking to Anders (zoom in!)

Clinton, CT

Thanks to the staff at Cedar Island Marina

Approaching Cedar Island

Sadly, it was our last night with Tonto’s Reward. They are heading back to Florida. We MISS you!

New Haven, CT

The marina staff failed to answer the radio. Under a heavy current we gingerly approached the dock. When a friendly boater yelled out – “would you like help with your lines?” I replied “yes, please!”  In my headset Capt Rick said, “plan to jump onto the dock, they won’t arrive in time”. To our shock, a speedy little dinghy whirred into our section of the dock.  Much smoother than I could have managed alone, Joey Piccerillo, had our lines securely in hand.

Joey Piccerillo and Hilary Tomko

To Capt. Rick’s delight, Joey and his sweet girlfriend Hilary invited us to an outdoor picnic, an ice cream social, at the yacht club. We made some new friends, introducing Beverly (Carol) Carr and Scotty.

Capt Rick, Beverly (Carol) and Scotty Carr

New Haven was a slice of heaven – where else could an ice-cream social lead to a private tour of Yale? The ultimate IVY league school, alma mater of my sweet amigo, REM.  A dream come true.

Hail Yale


If you have been there, like David and Gail Bernstein, you know the campus is extremely special.

Founded in 1701 as the Collegiate School, then renamed as Yale in 1718, in honor of Jewish benefactor Elihu Yale, the private IVY league was chartered well BEFORE the American Revolution.

School of Law

As we walked the campus with Joey and Hilary, we continued to remark how the architecture seems flawless.   


The university logo, with Hebrew characters, was devised in the 1800s by then University President Ezra Stiles. Stylish, graceful, refined, elegant.

With one shocking exception. The School of Architecture. Why the Face (WTF)?  What a disgrace!  How is it possible, in the most prestigious school we found Brutalist Architecture?  

Simple answer:  The department Chair hired himself as the designing architect. Yep, the client and the customer were one and the same!

Introducing the ugliest building on campus.  We learned that brutalist architecture is characterized by exposed, unpainted, raw concrete. Often referred to as cold and soulless – truthful and accurate.

Nothing about the 1963 Paul Rudolph design made sense. Although only 7 stories tall, the building has a complex floor plan with over 30 interior levels. It was absolutely hated by its occupants – students and teachers alike.  With ribbed, hammered concrete throughout the building the walls, guaranteed to snag and scrape both skin and clothing whenever it made contact.

Oh Ryan, if I had toured Yale sooner, I would change 7th & C …

Silliman – te amo tanto, Ryan!

Thanks to our Connecticut hosts for the private tour of multiple local Italian joints! Best CT pizza for sure!

Capt Rick, Beverly, Mary, Hilary, Scotty and Joey

Goodbye, Connecticut – yes, the best lobster roll is Connecticut style.  My favorite was from a roadside stand, thanks Rick and David!

Port Jefferson, New York

Port Jeff Yacht Club. Welcome back to New York.  Thanks, Tonto, for the suggestion to stay at PJYC.  It was easy walking distance to the little town of Port Jefferson.

Connecting with DougAndDanaAndABoat!

Doug, Dana, Rick and Mary on Tumbleweed

Tumbleweed (NP 4906 formerly known as Exhale) arrived in Port Jeff for a rare gathering of the sister ships!  It was absolutely marvelous spending time with the Belknap family!! Yes, our adventures included some ice cream and some exceptional food at Ruvo’s. 

duck extraordinaire

Follow the Belknap’s blog @DougAndDanaAndABoat, where there might be an allegation of breaking and entering … 

Evidence, or not.

Interesting that the only scrape was on Doug’s forehead, unsubstantiated to his role as an accessory to a crime that may – or may not – have happened.

Next Up – Bushranger, in Port Washington – Aussie reunion time – oh yes!!

Milestones: Birthdays – big boy Mason, September 18 – MO, I can’t believe he’s already three!

Something Fishy

Welcome to Provincetown Harbor

We traveled with Tonto’s Reward to Provincetown from Boston. The entrance to the harbor is easy to locate, courtesy of this 252 foot Pilgrim Monument. It’s the tallest all-granite structure in the US.

Provincetown or P-town, MA

For your American history buffs, the Mayflower set anchor in Provincetown Harbor in November of 1620, eventually settling across the bay in Plymouth. Actually, the pilgrims were headed to the Colony of Virginia, but the strong seas caused them to turn back to the safe harbor in Massachusetts.

Apparently the Mayflower’s captain missed the memo: boating season ends on Columbus Day (October 12) – for a reason.

Summer population ~60,000; Oct – May under 3,000.

Main Street P-town

Most recently P-town was the center of a nation-wide media storm as thousands of people, driven indoors by the rain, gathered to celebrate 4th of July.  In response to the well-publicized Delta COVID outbreak, the town instituted a mandatory mask mandate, still in effect in September.

Fish N Chips trivia

Let’s talk about fish! Capt. Rick often asks the question – what type of fish is in your fish and chips?  The answer varies widely depending on your location.  At the Showcase Lounge in Seward, AK (my dad’s old hangout), the answer is fresh halibut, beer battered!

Halibut, Thorn’s Showcase, Seward AK

Did you know the British tend to add carbonated “sparkling water” to their batter to make their crispy crust?  

In Boston, at the infamous Legal Seafood, the response to Capt.Rick’s question was “a local fish called Tillop”. Well, for all you Floridians, if it sounds suspiciously like Tilapia, a cheap, shallow-water scruffy-looking fish, you order anything else.


At the fabulous Tin Pan Alley in P-Town – where outside seating is prevalent – in response to the standard inquiry our waiter chuckled and said, “Since you are in Cape Cod, the fish is DELICIOUS Cod, of course!” And he was right – it was some of the very best Fish N Chips on this adventure! 

Cape Cod, Fish and Chips
Cod, Artist Rendering,

So where is Cape Cod? In 1602, Bartholomew Gosnold, after catching a “great store of codfish”, named the outermost tip of land “Cape Cod”.  Initially, the area referred to what is now known as Provincetown.  Over time, “Cape Cod” extended from Provincetown in the northeast to Woods Hole in the southwest, and is bordered by Plymouth to the northwest. Today, the Cape is divided into fifteen towns, several of which are in turn made up of multiple villages.

Cape Cod region

Thanks, Emily!

It was a pleasure to meet Emily O’Connell, longtime friend and advisor to the Bernstein’s, in P-Town. Thanks for the private tour, and for introducing us to the magnificent local food.

Pope’s Island, New Bedford – Hello Bella!

We returned to New Bedford, to connect with extended family.  Say hello to Tyler’s cousin, beautiful Bella Beales (David Hendry’s niece). 

Nicole and Bella
Waffle Cookie
Nicole (Hendry) Beales, Dan Beales and baby Bella.

It was spectacular seeing the Beales family. Thanks for making the drive!

As long as we are talking about fishy stuff, within easy walking distance of our marina we found Tuna Sashimi! Yes, it was as delicious as it looks.

Tuna-licious, Fathorm’s Waterfront Bar & Grille

Jamestown RI – Conanicut Island

Our next stop was Jamestown. Population 5,500 ish. A walk to the main town took about 7 minutes. Look at that BREATHTAKING blue sky! No filters!

Antique firetruck for Tyler

Tribute to 9/11

In Jamestown we found a precious tribute, with an actual section from the New York towers.

Tribute to 9/11, actual section from the towers.

Nearly 20 years have elapsed since the horrendous tragedy in New York. We all have stories of where we were on that day. The memories remain too vivid, the loss too great, leaving a permanent hole in our hearts. Together, we shed a few tears.

In honor of those we have lost, we hope you will take the time to watch and listen to the live performance by The Eagles – Hole in the World. Released in 2003, Click Here for the video.

Thank you, Uncle Larry, for the magnificent structure you created to commemorate those who lost their lives and those who were left behind.

photo by Derek Fulford

Fisher’s Island, NY

Nine miles long and one mile wide – the island had a great vibe, a small, quaint little stop. 

For Mike Gillespie – fishing for crabs with mini hotdogs.

Pequot – where the locals seemed freakishly tall. Maybe the ceilings were a little low in this fabulous gem, but it felt like the patrons – especially the women – could have been members of a basketball team. Reminds us of Copper River, AK – a TRUE local hangout, complete with never ending 70’s music.

Pequot fully stocked bar
Photo by Capt. Rick
For Craig – Flying Piglet

Power Guards – We were amused by the Hello Kitty and Invincible critters on guard. If you don’t recognize these characters, just ask your kids – that’s what I did 🙂

We leave you with the t-shirt of the day – from P-town

Inspired by Every Breath you Take, The Police (Sting), 1991.

Milestones: Birthdays: Eileen Pitel, September 10; Tony “Ynot” Rodriguez, September 15.

Shana Tova – (Have a good year) Thanks again, Megan, for the apple!

Next stop: Essex Island, Connecticut

Make Way for Ducklings

Make Way for Ducklings

First a little something for Rebecca Hill. The Nancy Schon sculpture in the Boston Public Garden, a tribute to Bostonian author Robert McCloskey. Installed in 1987.

Boston, MA

Faneuil Hall, Boston

Maddie enjoyed our stay in Boston – surrounded by exquisite public parks, luxuriant architecture, splendid history, and abundant food options.

Mija – this is for you! We LOVE this city : -) Alisha was in Boston, starting a new project, when COVID changed the world. This resilient city is thriving again.

Boston city scape – for all you Boston Legal fans.
Poinsettias for Caryl

We found the best Chinese food, maybe ever, at Billy Tse, Chinese and Pan-Asian Cuisine. It was so good, we went there twice. Check it out for yourself! Capt Rick tried to talk Billy Tse into opening a restaurant in Florida, no dice. And yes we enjoyed Italian cuisine, again, and again and again. Of course the family owned restaurants, with tables in the streets, were the best!

Boston Aquarium

The Aquarium was spectacular until throngs of unruly children and disrespectful adults – who refused to properly mask up – arrived.

Shark for Tyler

And now we are excited to share there are LOTS of Friends for Waddles

Penguin Mania for Megan

Midnight Ride of Paul Revere – A little fact check

The story of Paul Revere is often debated, bizarrely, dating back to the moment of his birth.  The infamous Bostonian was born on December 21, 1734, according to Wikipedia. BUT, disagrees, reporting his birthday on January 1, 1735.

Historians do agree the prosperous silversmith was one of the ringleaders in the 1773 Boston Tea Party. Scandalously disguised as Mohawk Indians, Revere and his cadre of vandals utterly destroyed the cargo from three ships (valued at nearly $2 million today), creating an immediate shortage of tea. Ironically, when the reality of unmet demand followed a dramatically decreased supply, the price of tea rose higher than the tax they were protesting; that’s the fickle finger of fate – for @DougAndDanaAndABoat.

Paul Revere’s House – seems to be glued to the adjacent structure.

The “Midnight Ride of Paul Revere” was first published in 1861 in The Atlantic Monthly. To provide some perspective, Revere died in in 1818. We are all familiar with the phrase “ … one if by land, two if by sea …” But did you know that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow took great liberty with his poem, re-writing the actual events for the sake of clever syntax and a Hollywood ending. 

Let’s revisit a few details of that infamous April 1775 horse ride, beginning with who really lit the lanterns in the Old North Church. A visit to the historic church revealed the descendants are still fighting over that claim to fame!

Old North Church

As pointed out by our hop-on-hop-off tour guide – the horse ride was not at midnight, the ships would have landed much earlier.

We also heard Revere didn’t even own a horse, he borrowed one from a neighbor.  Is that like borrowing a Hinckley sailboat?  Just curious.

Finally, Wikipedia confidently reports no one actually yelled “the British are coming” Why? Most of the Massachusetts colonists considered themselves British – meaning the British were already there.  

Boston Waterboat Marina

We stayed in Boston for 4 nights, the location was superb, within easy walking distance of downtown. This was the magnificent view from our boat.

Boston Waterboat Marina

On our final day in Boston we said goodbye to Gail’s sister Carol Mayo. Thanks for exploring with us, and for sharing your fabulous stories, Carol Lee!

Waterboat Duck House – for Carol Mayo
Good night, Boston

Journey Stats

The new Exhale has journeyed 3,550 nautical miles since December 22, 2020 – when Donna and I met Capt. Rick and Steven with a “v” in New Orleans. That’s where our slow boat came off the BIG ship from China. Rest assured she was fully sanitized – and Rona free – upon arrival.

That includes a total of 2,450 nautical miles traveled since we left Fort Myers – accompanied by Craig and Maureen – on April 29, 2021.  A lifetime ago. 

Be Safe Out There

With the Delta variant rampant in our communities, we wish everyone good health. Be safe, be smart.

Ducklings, masked

Mask up America!!

Milestones: Birthdays: Susan Merritt, Gypsy, September 5; Connie B., September 9.

Next Up: Provincetown or P-town