On March 1, 2018 the M/V Exhale, a comfy North Pacific trawler, departed Fort Myers, Florida, commencing on a 6,000 mile journey on the America’s Great Loop. On board were two “almost retired” baby boomers, Rick & Mary, and one faithful boat dog, Admiral Maddie Sue. This blog shares random bits and pieces of our journeys on Exhale.
breathe out in a deliberate manner.
“she sat back and exhaled deeply”
The trawler: North Pacific is based in Surrey, British Columbia, CANADA.
In the St. Augustine Muni Harbor we picked up a Mooring Ball in the north field, easy peasy. Thanks June and Tim, Subject to Change, for teaching us the tricks in Annapolis. We can’t wait for you to get back on the water.
With a fabulous view, the Dolphins dropped by to say hi to Tyler.
St. Augustine, FL
Hello Tonto’s Reward! It was great reconnecting in St. Augustine. Maddie felt VERY privileged when she was invited on board their Fleming. Dinner at Meehan’s Irish Pub & Seafood House with David and Gail B. was deeelicious. Salivating yet? We recommend the shrimp and grits.
St. Augustine is a walker’s paradise; wide sidewalks and abundant trees offer a welcomed respite from the hot sun. The temp on Cinco de Mayo was 94, breaking a record. Maureen said it felt like more than 100 degrees; I agree.
Traveling again with Treble in Paradise, we headed to Fernandina Beach. Enroute we were mesmerized by the military ops.
Fernandina Beach, Nassau County, FL
Built in 1891, Italianate style, the unique courthouse features a bell in the tower that served as the city’s fire alarm until the mid 1930’s.
Sunrise or Sunset?
Did you guess correctly? Thanks for all the fun comments we received! Those of you who have traversed on the water with Capt. Rick have the advantage, for sure! Special Kudos for the most exquisite detective report from Maaack, celebrated author of “Volcanic Winter” (available on Amazon in Hardcover, Paperback or Kindle). Yes, BushRanger, the Stuart photo from our last blog was a sunrise! Now here’s a few more sunrise and sunset photos.
Google Maps versus the Real-World
I really appreciate Google Maps, but, it gets a little confused when your starting point is on a boat, on the water. When I requested a route to the local tavern, the result required a ferry, destined to Georgia. Not kidding, the joint was only a few blocks away, but google was certain we needed a water rescue first, then took a circuitous walking route, totaling 126 miles, complete with a warning “may not reflect real-world conditions”. You can’t make this stuff up!
Amelia Island Brewing Company (AIBC) – Amelia Tavern
A “repeatable stop” in Fernandina Beach. This one is for Sideways – a refreshing variety of local beers that you would have enjoyed.
My Flight: Canary Cross, Laura Joe (for Mom), Dolores, and Smok’n M’rtha, for my cousin. Loved it. And the pretzels were insane.
Palace Saloon – Florida’s Oldest Bar. Cute on the outside, but, it smells like it’s the oldest bar. Enough said.
St. Simons, GA – Morningstar Marina
Welcome to Georgia! It’s not easy to explore St. Simons, and it was quite breezy. We left the dock at first light. Treble in Paradise waited patiently for me to release the lines, and take this photo.
NEXT STOP: Kilkenny Marina, Richmond Hill, Georgia … on my mind.
Happy Birthday Danielle Ginsburg (May 8)
Happy Mother’s Day tomorrow (Sunday, May 9). Thank you, to my grown up kids, who make it a true privilege to be your mom. I am SO proud of you. CW just announced the renewal of Stargirl! Season 2 releases on August 10, and filming for Season 3 begins this fall. BRAVO!
We leave you with this visual aid from my cousin, Martha. Thanks Muffin! Ponder 10cm for just a little while …
We left LaBelle with Treble in Paradise and Lit’l Houlegan following close behind.
It all seems so familiar, cruising with Capt. Sideways. Platinum loopers, these boaters are extremely experienced in the locks.
Early to Rise
If you followed our blog in the past, you know that Capt. Rick is an early riser. That means we often start our morning on the water with the sunrise. Good morning from the Clewiston Lock.
It is such a pleasure, boating with our friends on Lit’l Houlegan. It was hard to say goodbye in Clewiston. Maddie said thanks for all the cookies, Ray, we trust you will trailer that sweet little boat somewhere fun this summer! Join us again, anytime.
We also parted ways, briefly, with Treble in Paradise. We plan to reconnect with them around St. Augustine.
In a COVID world, it’s extremely common to work remotely. For all our clients and colleagues, who were wondering if we really work on the boat – rest assured, this highly productive office opens with the sun!
Stuart – Manatee Pocket
One of our favorite places to visit is Stuart, where we reunited with MeAnders. Marty and Anders are the REASON why we bought our first North Pacific. We absolutely fell in love with their boat (and with them) and could not wait to have a NPY of our own. It was great seeing them. THANKS for the ice bucket!
Sunrise or Sunset?
Here’s a fun test – leave a comment with your guess. Answer in the next blog.
We typically run the boat from the pilot house (inside); heading to Melbourne it was a perfect day to run from the flybridge – for Tonto’s Reward.
We spent the night in Melbourne, dining at Ichabod in the familiar marina. Took a nice long walk to stretch our legs. Note to self, next time we visit Melbourne we should eat in the vibrant historic district, the options are abundant!
Yes, it’s common for Capt. Rick to leave at first light
Anchored out near New Smyrna Beach
We anchored out, surrounded by sailboats – it was actually a little crowded. Since the WiFi was a problem (for future reference), the office closed early. Better than any restaurant, a charcuterie feast, prepared by our Chef. It is such a treasure to cruise with our dearest friends, Craig and Maureen. We are very spoiled!
With a departure at 7:15 am, it felt like we finally slept in!
Useful stuff: Bowline Knots
It turns out, Craig is really good at tying a bowline knot. Confession time – I thought they were called bowling knots. But as I see the correct spelling of the nautical term, I realize a “line” (definitely not a rope) makes more sense. BushRanger, what do you think, can you can use the same knot on the stern? Just wondering. For those of you who want to master this useful knot, here’s a great visual aide.
Next Stop: St. Augustine Mooring Field – See you tonight Tonto’s Reward!
On Thursday, April 29, 2021, the new adventure began – destination Maine! We departed from Fort Myers with our North Pacific friends on Treble in Paradise, Capt Tom and First Mate Faye Turke.
At the helm is Capt. Rick. Crew on Board includes the Admiral, Maddie Sue; First Mate, Ms. Mary; beloved Master Chef, Craig; and Chief Petty Officer, Maureen (officially responsible for promoting and maintaining a high sense of values and standards).
First watch – navigating the popular Caloosahatchee River, where we met up with Lit’l Houlegan. It’s great to travel with Sideways again! First Destination: City docks in LaBelle, FL.
When travel options ground to a halt by the pandemic, an over-whelming number of pent up, testosterone-filled idiots opted to buy boats in Florida. Bizarrely, unlike an automobile, driving a boat does not require any proof of skill or knowledge. So, just imagine – countless small, crowded, boats – aggressively zig-zagging through narrow channels, as if on a racetrack. To us, the inexperienced boaters are a dreadful blend of “annoying” and “dangerous”.
For us, cruising at a slow pace is a lifestyle choice. We enjoy the water, and often anchor out. We can travel for months without refueling. Seriously. With 920 gallons of fuel on board, we have a range of 3,500 miles running at 1600 rpms, or roughly 7 knots per hour. Slow and steady, tortuga style.
Unlike the NOISY guzzlers with 4 outboards off the back. To be fair, with a high performance boat you could easily run at 70 mph, and if money is no object, you could exceed 180 mph. In exchange for excess speed you would have to spend a LOT of time at the fuel pumps, supporting the economy.
Our boat is slow and QUIET, like a turtle (tortuga).
Here’s a little Turtle Trivia: Most sea turtles walk at the speed of 2 MPH, and swim at 10 MPH. The fastest variety is a Leatherback Sea Turtle, which can weigh around 1500 lbs and averages 22 MPH. Did you know the Russians sent a turtle to space in 1968? That rocket turtle set a world record when it traveled 24,790 MPH.
Next Stop: Clewiston – home of the Bubba Burger! Special Message to Tonto’s Reward – we can’t wait to catch up with you.
It’s been a long time … 2020 was a year like no other. A year of great loss and personal reflection. Yes, we are among the very fortunate. Persistent caution has been rewarded after canceling travel plans, avoiding human interaction, wearing a mask with diligence, and washing our hands until they ache; YES we are VERY thankful to be alive and well.
You may have heard, in December of 2019, before COVID19 spread into a global tragedy, we sold the original Exhale in anticipation of her replacement – the exact same sized boat – with a fresh design. Well, the waiting is finally over!!
After more than a year on dry land, Capt. Rick and his first mate are now fully vaccinated (thanks, Moderna!) and ready to travel with our beloved friends on Tonto’s Reward (Fleming) and Treble in Paradise (another North Pacific). IF you want to know more about our friends, take a look at the 2019 Bahama adventures in this blog.
YES! Blog posts will begin soon … the new M/V Exhale plans to navigate the waters from southwest Florida to northern Maine, and possibly into Canada if it opens up. We have no firm plans, but we expect to be on the water from late April through October (tbd) of 2021. On board for the first leg of our journey will be familiar crew, Craig and Maureen! Life on the water is great with a private chef – YOLO! We hope you will follow us.
But first, here’s an introduction to the new coastal beauty. Yes, that’s her, the first North Pacific 49 euro style, cruising on the cover of the April PassageMaker! Click here for more pictures (be sure to check out the Gallery of photos in this link). Thanks, Andrew for the great story!
With significant input from the captain, North Pacific Yachts designed the new 49′ pilot house trawler with state-of-the-art navigation and operating systems, including a water maker and gyro stabilizer for long journeys. And for the first mate – LOTS of natural light from those gorgeous windows.
Yes, Maddie Sue approved the numerous interior upgrades!
Curious to learn more about the journeys of the original Exhale?
As you approach the Canadian border by water you are supposed to fly a yellow quarantine flag, signaling you have not yet cleared customs. Once you are processed by the authorities, you are allowed to lower the yellow and raise the cherished maple leaf!
We anchored out one last time. Little Shark Anchorage in the Everglades National Park.
A spectacular sunset, a fitting tribute on Laura Jo’s birthday.
Out of cell phone range. Surrounded by peace and quiet. We finished the final episode of Longmire. Thanks Ray and Caryl for sharing.
And I finished another book, the captivating tale of a young woman’s fight for survival in a remote village in south central Alaska. An exciting page-turner, the author successfully depicts the enchanting rugged existence in my beloved home state. Thanks Celeste!
Naples Bay Resort
Thanks to Ron and Jan Austin who stayed in close contact during our journey. Thanks for inviting us to join the southwest yacht club cruise in Naples, where we connected with:
Back To Chicago
Thanks Ron and Bob for securing front row seats at this intimate concert. We enjoyed the exceptional 8-member tribute band, Back To Chicago; best of all, the Trumpet and Trombone players are local band teachers! What a fabulous final stop on our journey.
May 20 thru July 15, 2019. Nautical Miles = 1,136, Engine / Running Hours = 164, Fuel consumption = 681 gallons diesel, Generator (running at anchor) consumed 120 gallons of fuel over 240 hours = AC for Maddie.
Number of stops = 35, Days on the Hook 22 (39%) / Marinas 34 (61%)
Guests on Board: Dale Morgan and Ann Hughes
Thanks for another great adventure!
Next Up: Tween Waters with Houlegan Again. Guests arriving: Jamie, David, Tyler, Danielle, Sandra, Abby and Leo. 💕
Chubb Cay was more than elegant. Seemed like a great place for a destination wedding, with a cute little chapel and lots of private villas.
Spectacular service and delicious food.
The view from the infinity pool was breath taking You might like this pool, Eric.
Bimini – Alice Town
Departure at first light with Tonto’s Reward, we headed to the Biminis.
Our last stop in the Bahamas. Another perfect water day.
The infamous Radio Beach, proclaimed the most popular in Bimini. With a year round population of 300, not sure how many folks were surveyed.
Not a good day for this boat.
Hello to my little sister, Alice!
We decided the contest was for a Hemingway look a like. This Capt is Definitely a contender.
Parting is such sweet sorrow
Another early departure with Tonto’s Reward, our last morning on the water as boat buddies. Thanks Bernstein’s for an amazing Bahama adventure. See you in Fort Myers. Hope your journey to Stuart is enjoyable.
The water crossing the Gulf Stream was not smooth. Heavily tossed in the Straits Of Florida, Sadly, there was a tragic loss – Rick’s electric toothbrush fell in the head. Super Yuck.
Anniversaries: Miss you Mom and Dad. You would have loved the Bahamas.
After enjoying the gentle pace of the provincial lifestyle in the islands, the manic activity in Nassau Harbor was an adjustment.
Here’s a little data. In 2019, the Bahamas has an estimated population of 389,000. By comparison, Wyoming, the least populated US state, is about 580,000. Currently about 266,000 live in Nassau. I’ll save you the math – that’s 68% of the country’s population in one small city.
We walked with the Bernstein’s from the Nassau Haven Marina to historic downtown. Along the way we found colorful murals.
For Mike Gillespie. Save water. Drink rum
To Sir, with love
It was exciting to discover the bridge to Paradise Island was officially named after the globally renowned Bahamian, beloved Oscar-winning actor Sir Sydney Poitier. My favorite of his movies are Guess Who’s Coming To Dinner, and, To Sir, With Love. Born in 1927, yes, he’s still alive. 💕
Nassau Parliament Square
Officially draped for Independence Day. Forward together, upward, onward. One people united in love and service.
The flamingo-pink buildings in Parliament Square were constructed in 1815 by the Loyalists.
This fish tank is for Tyler. And Eric. Sushi time!
Atlantis – Paradise Island
Background of Atlantis. The property was originally part of the Paradise Island Hotel and Casino, which opened in 1968. It was owned by Resorts International, a Merv Griffin company. In 1994, Merv sold to Sol Kerzner. Kerzner created Atlantis on the site over the course of the next four years, spending over $800 million to build the massive resort. The resort was expanded in 2007.
This craft looks like it belongs in either a Bond film or a sci-fi movie. I imagined it could rise into the air, at warp speed. To my friends with security clearances, can you shed some light?
Zoom in. Look closely at the stern of this craft. Is that a Machine gun or dinghy lift? You decide.
Fun factoid – Paradise Island was formally known as Hog Island, until savvy developer, Huntington Hartford renamed it in 1962. He successfully convinced parliament wealthy tourists would prefer to spend money in paradise, rather than on an island for swine.
The historic lighthouse retained its original name, the Hog Island Lighthouse.
Built in 1817, this is the oldest surviving lighthouse in the West Indies. It is located at the western tip of Paradise Island, marking the northwest entrance to New Providence and the Port of Nassau.
Allen’s Cay is one of the few places where you can still find these fearsome looking creatures, which are protected by law. Accustomed to visitors, rather than hiding, the iguanas appear at the sound of human footsteps.
I think the critters might have been disappointed that we only brought cameras.
Highborne Cay Anchorage
Acquired in Canada (we miss you Craig and Mo) this violet is celebrating a full year on Exhale.
Thanks for joining us on our anniversary, Gail and David. And thanks for the crew hats, Bert and EJ. Sorry you missed out on the champagne. To celebrate, Rick grilled filets, with blue cheese crumbles, local veggies, and baked potatoes; paired with an exquisite Zin from the Bernstein’s wine cellar. The perfect meal with wonderful friends. Happy Anniversary my love.
New Providence, Palm Cay Marina
After nine nights in a row on the hook, when we arrived in New Providence we tied up to a slip in Palm Cay, and basked in the luxury of AC. Such a marvelous invention.
The Marina is situated on the south eastern part of New Providence, away from the hustle and bustle of Nassau. The expanding community is still under construction, but seems to have lots of potential.
Open for only one month, the staff at the Palm Cay Restaurant were great. Given a little time, we are confident they will work out the few kinks in the kitchen.
We make a practice of asking the marina staff for suggestions of places to explore. Miss Abby told us of a local treasure, not heavily frequented by the overwhelming cruise ship traffic. An important detail there were 4 massive ships docked in Nassau.
Lovers Tree, at the edge of Fort Charlotte. A sweet local tradition.
One of the best forts we have ever experienced, the limestone fort was constructed in the late 18th century by British colonial governor Lord Dunmore after the end of the American Revolutionary war. The fort has never been used in battle. How convenient that both the Queen and Dunmore’s wife were named Charlotte.
Cricket Club Restaurant and Pub
Best of all we got a recommendation for lunch – oh my!
Serving British and Bahamian specials, it was the best local cuisine we have experienced in the Bahamas.
Food photo for Sarah O. Clockwise from top left: Sheppard’s pie, Bahamian shrimp, curried chicken, and minced lobster.
An experience worth repeating. By the way, we were the ONLY folks, in the pub, that were not locals. Delicious. Here’s their website: https://bahamascricket.com/
It’s a must stop for sure. Special note for Ray, the draft Cricket Ale was Sideways worthy.
Don’t be fooled by the open tables, they were full before we left!
Thanks Abby for the courtesy car!
Hey D Floyd (aka #8), to date we have been on the hook a total of 20 nights in The Bahamas 😊
The pilgrimage to Boo Boo Hill is an adventure best timed at low tide, since the trail is completely washed out at high tide.
Tourists from around the world leave carved driftwood at the top of the hill, in memory of the souls lost at sea, or, to commemorate their visit.
Rick said the pile would make a heck of a signal fire for the lonely park staff stuck on the remote island.
The view was spectacular
Limestone cliffs above boo boo beach.
Thanks, Gail and David, for taking us snorkeling, several times, around Warderick Wells Cay, we even saw a hog fish Tom and Faye!
Tragically, this 52 foot Sperm Whale was found dead on the beach, with plastic in its lungs.
What a magical day! Climbing, and snorkeling, followed by a flash rain storm – also known as a fresh water bath for the boat. Gail suggested we have rum cocktails on the beach – with submerged beach chairs and umbrellas in the water. Best of all, Gail made her Malaysian style seafood fried rice for dinner. Special dessert was Chocolate covered pretzels. Wow! Wow! Wow! Life is good.
We anchored out at Norman Cay with Tonto’s Reward, the most notorious island in the Bahamas.
A member of the infamous Medellin Cartel, Carlos Lehder began taking a shine to Norman’s Cay in 1978. Remote enough to remain relatively inconspicuous, while also still within close proximity of the U.S.Within short order, he purchased large portions of the small island, drove off the local population, and effectively took over.
In the late 1970’s, drug kingpin Pablo Escobar erected a fortress in Norman Cay, protected by armed guards and surrounded by attack dogs, most notably constructing a 1000m-long runway, at a strategic point for drug runners to rest and refuel on their way to the United States from Colombia.
Today the anchorage at Norman’s Cay is best known for the Curtiss C-46 Commando that landed well short of the runway in 1980. Now a popular snorkeling site, the sunken WWII-era military transport plane was used to fuel Escobar’s expanding cocaine trade to the USA.
Yet another magical day
Welcome to the world Tate Merritt Michelson.
Happy Birthday Leo. Can’t believe you are 10!!
Next stop: Highborne Cay, maybe. Subject to Change, for sure.
Who needs sunscreen when you have awesome looking UV rated clothes? Always looking great, Ann.
Black Point Settlement, population 414, is the home of Club Scorpio, serving the best rum drinks on the island.
Celebrating Pride Week, thanks Michael Gillespie for the rainbow umbrella. It provides good shade on the back porch.
Another serene evening, Anchoring with Tonto’s Reward is so peaceful. Life is good!
Wild pigs – Big Major Cay
The feral pigs are said to have been dropped off on Big Major Cay by a group of sailors who wanted to come back and cook them, but never returned. Another legend has it that the pigs were survivors of a shipwreck and managed to swim to shore.Others suggest that the pigs were part of a business scheme to attract tourists to the Bahamas. Given the number of shore excursions to the beach everyday, it appears to be a highly profitable venture for tour operators.
Swimming with the Piggies
Rick and Dale took Maddie on a dinghy ride to see the Pigs. Poor Little Maddie was completely terrified by the pigs, who aggressively tried to climb onto the boat. The plan to swim with the piggies was abruptly abandoned.
Don’t be fooled. These are not domestic pets. On the beach you will find more than 40 pigs, of all shapes and sizes. The pigs eat, swim, produce tootsie rolls, scrounge for more food, swim again, sleep, repeat.
Swim at your own risk. We stayed inside the boat.
We enjoyed a very Special dinner with Tonto’s Reward at the stunning Fowl Cay resort.
Rick, Mary, Gail, David, Ann and Dale.
Stunning view from Fowl Cay.
Thunderball Grotto – Staniel Cay
If you are an old school James Bond fan, you might recall the magnificent underwater caves. More amazing than we could have ever imagined, we snorkeled into the spectacular caves at low tide 🐟. Sorry we don’t have any pictures from inside. You have to experience this natural wonder!!
Surrounded by calm waters it was Paddle board time.
Thanks Steve Hunt.
Good night Piggies.
Happy birthday Joe Occhino. June 26
Happy anniversary Jamie and David. June 27
Today we are super sad to say goodbye to Ann and Dale. The concert was much too short.
Next stop: somewhere between here and there. Anchoring out in the Bahamas. Everything is good.
On Sunday you will rest. Translation – the stores and restaurants are closed. Closed. Closed.
Solution – Rent a car to explore the Island. Drive from Rokers Point to Georgetown – where there are more shops and restaurants – a lovely country drive, but everything is closed. Wait a minute – That parking lot is full. Yep, it’s the local church.
A tiny sign read “open”, but there were no cars.
Augusta Bay was open! Sunday special was a delicious lamb chop.
The church crowd arrived shortly after us, filling up the joint, and scarfing up the daily special. Sorry, Gail, it was delicious.
The recipe for conch salad is … a secret. Or a mystery. We have experienced some really delicious versions, a few that were more than memorable. Key ingredient – fresh conch.
Local beers. Cold and delicious.
Beautiful sunset. Repeat
While Dale was running the boat, Rick was enjoying the smooth seas.
Farmer’s Cay Yacht Club. Total slips = 4.
4 boats. The marina is full.
Ann and Dale. Time for a dinghy ride.
The conch men told us the island population is 46, maybe it was 55, they weren’t sure.
Remnants of yet another tropical storm.
Hello? hello? Anybody out there? Has anyone seen Maddie?
Dinner at the Farmers Cay Yacht Club was cooked by the dockmasters wife.
Dale and Ann went to bed. Maddie could NOT believe she was not invited.
Sad to say goodbye to Karen and Rick Smith, guests on Tonto’s Reward. So nice spending time with you.
Next Stop: Black Point Settlement, Great Guana Cay.
Abundant in Cape Eleuthera, Nurse Sharksare slow-moving bottom-dwellers and are, for the most part, harmless tohumans.
In the early 1970s the very tip of the Cape Eleuthera peninsula was a favoured playground of the Kennedys, boasting its own 6,500 ft-long airstrip that could facilitate them flying directly to and from New York.
Vivid in color, Royal Poinciana trees line the rural roadways.
This world-renowned blue hole, an inland ocean/swimming hole, is located on the southern edge of Rock Sound.
A seemingly bottomless natural limestone formation, it is said to have been explored by Jacques Cousteau.
Rock sound international airport. That’s it. The whole airport.
Hello Ann and Dale!
Maddie. Sleeping with Dale. When he wasn’t feeling well she never left his side.
New Bight – Cat Island
Were you pondering, “What’s a bight?” Wikipedia says it’s a gentle curve in the coastline, with water more shallow than a sound.
Exhale anchored out with Tonto’s Reward and Rejoice at Cat Island.
Rejoice anchored at New Bight.
The Hermitage on Mt.Alvernia
Monsignor John Hawes, known to Cat Islanders as Father Jerome, was a skilled architect and sculptor. Using local stone, he built The Hermitage on the peak of Mt. Alvernia in 1939, a small medieval monastery where he could get away from the world.
Technically it should not be a “mount” since it is only 206 feet above sea level; the official sign reads Como Hill, the highest point in the Bahamas.
The way up the hill to the monastery is via a winding trail, terminating with a hand cut stone staircase on a steep rocky incline.
Thanks Gail B for introducing us to The Hermitage! Bucket list item checked. Well worth the walk in the sun, with Tonto’s Reward and Rejoice, all 10 of us survived the historic trek.
Ann and Dale
Capt Rick staying cool in the shade.
Conch Salad time – it’s doesn’t get any fresher. This Local vendor caught and prepared the Local delicacy.
Capt Rick is fishing for dinner. Life is good!
Happy Birthday Ann Hughes (June 22). You are our Star. Wondering, What’s for breakfast? Bahamian Coconut French Toast. 😎
We anchored out at Hatchet Bay, a well protected “pond” that was opened up to sea – courtesy of tons of dynamite that blasted open a narrow cut in the limestone cliffs.
Maddie just wanted to know if she could have some of that well chilled arrival beer. Sorry little girl.
Eleuthera’s capital is a little village dominated by a Marriott signature resort, strategically situated with a magnificent view.
An enterprising mixologist from The 1648 Restaurant (a clever reference to the birthplace of the Bahamas, dating back to 1648) encouraged our three dinghy’s to dock, followed by a scenic visit to the stunning Marriott property.
According to David, once upon a time there was an up scale Club Med at this spot, enjoyed by Claude and JoAnn more than three decades ago. At some point the Club Med was abandoned. At this point in the story David shrugs his shoulders and says, “It is no surprise the beach is now called the French Leave.”
Note to self – if you let the Mixologist chose your cocktail you should not be surprised when the result is something you would not have ordered on your own. Although electric blue is one of my favorite colors – for house paint.
Another marine life visitor. A Giant Ray
A short dingy ride to shore with Be Glad, Governors Harbour consists of roughly five city blocks, easily walked by all.
The grounds of St Patrick’s Anglican church, dating back 170 years, were well maintained.
Harbour Island in the Bahamas was originally inhabited by Arawak, a tribe of the Lucayan Indians. Shortly after Christopher Columbus discovered this area in the Bahamas’ Out islands the entire tribe of Lucayans was wiped-out by the Spanish Conquistadors. By the middle of the 16th century Harbour Island was desolate, it remained uninhabited for over 100 years.
Presently, it appears there are more chickens on the island than people. Population as of census 2010: 1,762 residents. Number of chickens: growing daily.
The Marina office provided a good introduction to the colorful island, the six foot metalwork is a fitting tribute to the abundance of roosters wandering aimlessly through the streets.
Today, the island is a wedding destination, known for the long pink sand beaches stretching along its eastern shore.
Remote Island Life
Cargo for the island arrives by miniature commercial ships.
Resourceful recycling – these repurposed wine bottles now serve as a retaining wall.
Yes, Mike Gillespie, you would have enjoyed the hot dogs on the beach.
Narrow winding streets are the island standard since the main mode of transit is a golf cart.
Tourists hale from far and wide. Can you find your home state plate?
Local pubs are the best!
Stairs to a waterfront pub, where the electrical work is “creative”. This photo is for Dale and Ann. Can’t wait to see you on the 19th!
It’s raining again, but Maddie doesn’t seem to mind too much.
This boat should be called Darwinian. The passengers are drinking and swimming in those underwater blue lights. Potential Shark Bait?
Reminiscent of our trip on the Great Loop, we pulled up anchor at the break of dawn, for an early morning departure. With roughly nine hours running ahead of us we were greeted by a spectacular sunrise. This sea day was completely surrounded by water, with no land in sight. The water was gentle, with slow rolling waves, and, we arrived in full light.
Starbucks served here.
Sashimi courtesy of Rick C.
He caught A Rainbow Runner!
Spanish Wells is an adorable seaside village.
Now that’s a great boat name, Radar Love.
To navigate the Devils Backbone it is local tradition to hire a “pilot” to lead your boat through the windy route, well known for shoaling. It turns out, with modern charts and gps you could safely navigate the route on your own, but we were happy to support the beloved local grand daddy, aptly named Bandit.
Bandit leads the way for Tonto’s Reward, followed closely by Exhale and Rejoice.
Originally named Pirate Cay, after female pirate Anne Bonny from the 1720’s, the island was renamed “Parrot Cay” so it would not frighten away tourists. Hey – Ho! Wait a minute, that’s the story of the island in Turks and Caicos.
But we did see a pirate ship
With three little boats in tow, bounty perhaps??
Marsh Harbour was a good place to get provisions, once the rain let up. A free boat wash. You would be proud, Rodger, we walked to and from the grocery store. Got our steps in!
Dinner at Wally’s with RickC, Deedy and Linda was exceptional. The bread pudding, shared by all, got a 10 from Rick C, not to be taken lightly. We were very thankful for the magic of this small sterno can, since the flies disappear immediately.
The Conch Marina in Marsh Harbour was a good stop, excellent staff and a delightful stay.
Tilloo Cay Anchorage
This “Chain silencer” was invented by Loopers, Reality. Thanks 🙏 so much Rodger and Lorrie.
We enjoy anchoring.
Maddie was exhausted from another day in Paradise
Scout and Inhale explored Tahiti Beach again, finding Thirsty Cuda buzzing with activity.
At Cavern Cay we found a castle, the dock said “Far Side”, we are on the lookout for Gary Larson.
Maddie was happy to visit Cracker Ps, another dog friendly bar.
At anchor with Tonto’s Reward, Exhale hosted a relaxing dinner with the Bernstein’s.
We were sorry to say goodbye to Linda Moynahan, Rick Crossland’s sister.
Happy Birthday Finny!
Next Stop: Lynyard Cay, anchoring out with Rejoice and Tonto’s Reward.
One of my favorite childhood stories is Marcia Brown’s “Stone Soup”. Three hungry soldiers convince the villagers to work together, each contributing the perfect blend of ingredients, to make a feast!
Let me just say, the feast we enjoyed in Hope Town was award winning.
Thanks to Chef Rick C who orchestrated the perfect menu of fresh conk and snapper, caught by Treble in Paradise; heavenly corn and edamame succotash, from Rejoice; delicately prepared Bahamian fried rice, from Tonto’s Reward; and fresh steamed broccoli from Exhale.
The delectable seafood was prepared outdoors by the men, highlighted by Rick Gs infamous slap yo mama beer batter – perfectly coated on the snapper! The conch was beyond tender, best ever. Thanks again, Treble!
What a feast 🙏.
A dink ride to the beach for a relaxing swim with Be Glad, Inhale, and Scout (photo by Linda)
It was a popular beach, with abundant talent. Bob Marta, you were right.
Exquisite, brilliant colors – these flowers are abundant in Hope Town.
Hibiscus for Jamie.
Orchids for Gail
Electric Blue House for Mija. N Street colors!
The views are stunning
A new Project?
The ultimate tree house. What do you think, Capt Rick – a new project? We think this house plan has lots of potential, with natural shade, and the beach nearby.
For my little brother, Sam.
Local artist, Chaka Blatch, created a customized shoe basket for Exhale.
With only a ten mile run (enough to make 60 gallons of water!!), to the next island, we elected to tow Inhale for the first time. Yes, I was stressed. Imagining all sorts of silly tragedies including swamping the little girl.
Although docking with the dinghy was a little more challenging, with a patient captain, it all worked out.
This is a quaint little island renowned for its bars.
A local institution worth the visit.
jenga game in progress, these boards were begging us to play
The water is so gentle, With the help of Rejoice and Be Glad, you can portage for miles.
Push me, pull me, it easy in less than one foot of water.