We met Heather and Mark Rutherford, award-winning sailors, not too long after they acquired their trawler, the M/V Bushranger, a sturdy 38 foot Marine Trader. Featured numerous times in our Great Loop posts we were VERY excited to reunite with our friends from Sydney, Australia.
First, what is a Bushranger?
Fun facts: Thanks again to Wikipedia, we learned that Bushrangers were originally escaped convicts in the early years of the British settlement of Australia who used the bush as a refuge to hide from the authorities. In 1835, Charles Darwin recorded that a bushranger was “an open villain who subsists by highway robbery, and will sooner be killed than taken alive”
Better a “ranger” than a “whacker”
Similar to the common mashup of Tonto’s Revenge in the place of Tonto’s Reward, marinas tend to rename Bushranger, mistakenly calling her bushwhacker. It’s not a good thing,
“Bushwhacker” was a Civil War term that designated the lowest and meanest type of guerrilla fighter, particularly the Confederates, who often hid in inaccessible places and ambushed Union troops.
Let the record show, our Aussie friends are neither “whackers” nor “gooses”, a popular Australian reference to anyone who is rude or behaves badly. Of course in Port Washington, there are plenty of Canada geese to be found.
They are salty Great Loop adventurers,
Heather captains the boat quite well, rarely running aground,
and she makes the most delicious of breads (onion pull-a-parts).
The folks in Port Washington are very friendly, and the scenery is sweet.
We were delighted to return to Diwan. The food is fresh and flavorful. The owner remembered us (Gail and David!), noting we had returned with new friends.
The renowned author of Volcanic Winter,
Get your copy of his book here: Yes, Capt Rick is a character in the book!
Following Tonto’s Reward, we stayed at the tiny Essex Island (13 acres).
An on-demand foot ferry (no vehicles) crosses the waterway to Essex – ride time: roughly 5 minutes.
Birdhouses are prevalent in Essex. In an area where real estate taxes are excessive, it is benevolent to provide such exquisite housing for our feathered friends.
Hello Anders from Griswold Inn.
Thanks to the staff at Cedar Island Marina
Sadly, it was our last night with Tonto’s Reward. They are heading back to Florida. We MISS you!
New Haven, CT
The marina staff failed to answer the radio. Under a heavy current we gingerly approached the dock. When a friendly boater yelled out – “would you like help with your lines?” I replied “yes, please!” In my headset Capt Rick said, “plan to jump onto the dock, they won’t arrive in time”. To our shock, a speedy little dinghy whirred into our section of the dock. Much smoother than I could have managed alone, Joey Piccerillo, had our lines securely in hand.
To Capt. Rick’s delight, Joey and his sweet girlfriend Hilary invited us to an outdoor picnic, an ice cream social, at the yacht club. We made some new friends, introducing Beverly (Carol) Carr and Scotty.
New Haven was a slice of heaven – where else could an ice-cream social lead to a private tour of Yale? The ultimate IVY league school, alma mater of my sweet amigo, REM. A dream come true.
If you have been there, like David and Gail Bernstein, you know the campus is extremely special.
Founded in 1701 as the Collegiate School, then renamed as Yale in 1718, in honor of Jewish benefactor Elihu Yale, the private IVY league was chartered well BEFORE the American Revolution.
As we walked the campus with Joey and Hilary, we continued to remark how the architecture seems flawless.
The university logo, with Hebrew characters, was devised in the 1800s by then University President Ezra Stiles. Stylish, graceful, refined, elegant.
With one shocking exception. The School of Architecture. Why the Face (WTF)? What a disgrace! How is it possible, in the most prestigious school we found Brutalist Architecture?
Simple answer: The department Chair hired himself as the designing architect. Yep, the client and the customer were one and the same!
Introducing the ugliest building on campus. We learned that brutalist architecture is characterized by exposed, unpainted, raw concrete. Often referred to as cold and soulless – truthful and accurate.
Nothing about the 1963 Paul Rudolph design made sense. Although only 7 stories tall, the building has a complex floor plan with over 30 interior levels. It was absolutely hated by its occupants – students and teachers alike. With ribbed, hammered concrete throughout the building the walls, guaranteed to snag and scrape both skin and clothing whenever it made contact.
Oh Ryan, if I had toured Yale sooner, I would change 7th & C …
Thanks to our Connecticut hosts for the private tour of multiple local Italian joints! Best CT pizza for sure!
Goodbye, Connecticut – yes, the best lobster roll is Connecticut style. My favorite was from a roadside stand, thanks Rick and David!
Port Jefferson, New York
Port Jeff Yacht Club. Welcome back to New York. Thanks, Tonto, for the suggestion to stay at PJYC. It was easy walking distance to the little town of Port Jefferson.
Connecting with DougAndDanaAndABoat!
Tumbleweed (NP 4906 formerly known as Exhale) arrived in Port Jeff for a rare gathering of the sister ships! It was absolutely marvelous spending time with the Belknap family!! Yes, our adventures included some ice cream and some exceptional food at Ruvo’s.
Follow the Belknap’s blog @DougAndDanaAndABoat, where there might be an allegation of breaking and entering …
Interesting that the only scrape was on Doug’s forehead, unsubstantiated to his role as an accessory to a crime that may – or may not – have happened.
Next Up – Bushranger, in Port Washington – Aussie reunion time – oh yes!!
Milestones: Birthdays – big boy Mason, September 18 – MO, I can’t believe he’s already three!
We traveled with Tonto’s Reward to Provincetown from Boston. The entrance to the harbor is easy to locate, courtesy of this 252 foot Pilgrim Monument. It’s the tallest all-granite structure in the US.
Provincetown or P-town, MA
For your American history buffs, the Mayflower set anchor in Provincetown Harbor in November of 1620, eventually settling across the bay in Plymouth. Actually, the pilgrims were headed to the Colony of Virginia, but the strong seas caused them to turn back to the safe harbor in Massachusetts.
Apparently the Mayflower’s captain missed the memo: boating season ends on Columbus Day (October 12) – for a reason.
Summer population ~60,000; Oct – May under 3,000.
Most recently P-town was the center of a nation-wide media storm as thousands of people, driven indoors by the rain, gathered to celebrate 4th of July. In response to the well-publicized Delta COVID outbreak, the town instituted a mandatory mask mandate, still in effect in September.
Fish N Chips trivia
Let’s talk about fish! Capt. Rick often asks the question – what type of fish is in your fish and chips? The answer varies widely depending on your location. At the Showcase Lounge in Seward, AK (my dad’s old hangout), the answer is fresh halibut, beer battered!
Did you know the British tend to add carbonated “sparkling water” to their batter to make their crispy crust?
In Boston, at the infamous Legal Seafood, the response to Capt.Rick’s question was “a local fish called Tillop”. Well, for all you Floridians, if it sounds suspiciously like Tilapia, a cheap, shallow-water scruffy-looking fish, you order anything else.
At the fabulous Tin Pan Alley in P-Town – where outside seating is prevalent – in response to the standard inquiry our waiter chuckled and said, “Since you are in Cape Cod, the fish is DELICIOUS Cod, of course!” And he was right – it was some of the very best Fish N Chips on this adventure!
So where is Cape Cod? In 1602, Bartholomew Gosnold, after catching a “great store of codfish”, named the outermost tip of land “Cape Cod”. Initially, the area referred to what is now known as Provincetown. Over time, “Cape Cod” extended from Provincetown in the northeast to Woods Hole in the southwest, and is bordered by Plymouth to the northwest. Today, the Cape is divided into fifteen towns, several of which are in turn made up of multiple villages.
It was a pleasure to meet Emily O’Connell, longtime friend and advisor to the Bernstein’s, in P-Town. Thanks for the private tour, and for introducing us to the magnificent local food.
Pope’s Island, New Bedford – Hello Bella!
We returned to New Bedford, to connect with extended family. Say hello to Tyler’s cousin, beautiful Bella Beales (David Hendry’s niece).
It was spectacular seeing the Beales family. Thanks for making the drive!
As long as we are talking about fishy stuff, within easy walking distance of our marina we found Tuna Sashimi! Yes, it was as delicious as it looks.
Jamestown RI – Conanicut Island
Our next stop was Jamestown. Population 5,500 ish. A walk to the main town took about 7 minutes. Look at that BREATHTAKING blue sky! No filters!
Antique firetruck for Tyler
Tribute to 9/11
In Jamestown we found a precious tribute, with an actual section from the New York towers.
Nearly 20 years have elapsed since the horrendous tragedy in New York. We all have stories of where we were on that day. The memories remain too vivid, the loss too great, leaving a permanent hole in our hearts. Together, we shed a few tears.
Thank you, Uncle Larry, for the magnificent structure you created to commemorate those who lost their lives and those who were left behind.
Fisher’s Island, NY
Nine miles long and one mile wide – the island had a great vibe, a small, quaint little stop.
Pequot – where the locals seemed freakishly tall. Maybe the ceilings were a little low in this fabulous gem, but it felt like the patrons – especially the women – could have been members of a basketball team. Reminds us of Copper River, AK – a TRUE local hangout, complete with never ending 70’s music.
Power Guards – We were amused by the Hello Kitty and Invincible critters on guard. If you don’t recognize these characters, just ask your kids – that’s what I did 🙂
We leave you with the t-shirt of the day – from P-town
Milestones: Birthdays: Eileen Pitel, September 10; Tony “Ynot” Rodriguez, September 15.
Shana Tova – (Have a good year) Thanks again, Megan, for the apple!
First a little something for Rebecca Hill. The Nancy Schon sculpture in the Boston Public Garden, a tribute to Bostonian author Robert McCloskey. Installed in 1987.
Maddie enjoyed our stay in Boston – surrounded by exquisite public parks, luxuriant architecture, splendid history, and abundant food options.
Mija – this is for you! We LOVE this city : -) Alisha was in Boston, starting a new project, when COVID changed the world. This resilient city is thriving again.
We found the best Chinese food, maybe ever, at Billy Tse, Chinese and Pan-Asian Cuisine. It was so good, we went there twice. Check it out for yourself! Capt Rick tried to talk Billy Tse into opening a restaurant in Florida, no dice. And yes we enjoyed Italian cuisine, again, and again and again. Of course the family owned restaurants, with tables in the streets, were the best!
The Aquarium was spectacular until throngs of unruly children and disrespectful adults – who refused to properly mask up – arrived.
And now we are excited to share there are LOTS of Friends for Waddles
Midnight Ride of Paul Revere – A little fact check
The story of Paul Revere is often debated, bizarrely, dating back to the moment of his birth. The infamous Bostonian was born on December 21, 1734, according to Wikipedia. BUT, Biography.com disagrees, reporting his birthday on January 1, 1735.
Historians do agree the prosperous silversmith was one of the ringleaders in the 1773 Boston Tea Party. Scandalously disguised as Mohawk Indians, Revere and his cadre of vandals utterly destroyed the cargo from three ships (valued at nearly $2 million today), creating an immediate shortage of tea. Ironically, when the reality of unmet demand followed a dramatically decreased supply, the price of tea rose higher than the tax they were protesting; that’s the fickle finger of fate – for @DougAndDanaAndABoat.
The “Midnight Ride of Paul Revere” was first published in 1861 in The Atlantic Monthly. To provide some perspective, Revere died in in 1818. We are all familiar with the phrase “ … one if by land, two if by sea …” But did you know that Henry Wadsworth Longfellow took great liberty with his poem, re-writing the actual events for the sake of clever syntax and a Hollywood ending.
Let’s revisit a few details of that infamous April 1775 horse ride, beginning with who really lit the lanterns in the Old North Church. A visit to the historic church revealed the descendants are still fighting over that claim to fame!
As pointed out by our hop-on-hop-off tour guide – the horse ride was not at midnight, the ships would have landed much earlier.
We also heard Revere didn’t even own a horse, he borrowed one from a neighbor. Is that like borrowing a Hinckley sailboat? Just curious.
Finally, Wikipedia confidently reports no one actually yelled “the British are coming” Why? Most of the Massachusetts colonists considered themselves British – meaning the British were already there.
Boston Waterboat Marina
We stayed in Boston for 4 nights, the location was superb, within easy walking distance of downtown. This was the magnificent view from our boat.
On our final day in Boston we said goodbye to Gail’s sisterCarol Mayo. Thanks for exploring with us, and for sharing your fabulous stories, Carol Lee!
The new Exhale has journeyed 3,550 nautical miles since December 22, 2020 – when Donna and I met Capt. Rick and Steven with a “v” in New Orleans. That’s where our slow boat came off the BIG ship from China. Rest assured she was fully sanitized – and Rona free – upon arrival.
That includes a total of 2,450 nautical miles traveled since we left Fort Myers – accompanied by Craig and Maureen – on April 29, 2021. A lifetime ago.
Be Safe Out There
With the Delta variant rampant in our communities, we wish everyone good health. Be safe, be smart.
Mask up America!!
Milestones: Birthdays: Susan Merritt, Gypsy, September 5; Connie B., September 9.
Waddles was the perfect wedding host. For those of you who have not met, Waddles has been the beloved international mascot of Megan Ginsburg – Capt. Rick’s niece – for the past 15 years.
Congrats to Megan & Mike Newton, who got married on August 21 in Ann Arbor, MI. As you can see, the bride is gorgeous, and that dress – absolutely exquisite. The groom, with his charming smile, was truly handsome 🙂
It was an exceptional gathering of relatives traveling from the states of California, Michigan, Ohio, Florida, Kentucky, Tennessee, Maine, and a few more. For Capt. Rick in addition to seeing the familiar members of the extended Satterfield and Ginsburg family, it was a rare treat to spend time with the fashionable Aunt Sally and Uncle Ernie Waxman, who never show their age!
For all of us, it was a sweet reminder that family will travel many miles to celebrate life events, and, that the bonds are timeless.
It is absolutely fascinating how the family dynamics never change, no matter how much time passes between visits. Some siblings misbehave. Some tend to cry with joy, several times. Some just dance, all night long, happy to enjoy life!
Family gatherings are the most precious when Grandpa Rick gets to spoil three grandkids at the same time!
Arriving back at the airport in Portland we had a special sighting. A Moose! But wait a minute – something is extremely odd about that moose.
First a little background to establish credibility. Moose are so common in Alaska, I could not possibly tell you have many hundreds I have seen (I lived in AK for nearly 40 years). Even Capt Rick has seen several of them up close.
With a wealth of experience in this matter, this stuffed moose was absolutely ridiculous! Why?? Because moose are NEVER this groomed! (Useless Factoid from Wikipedia: To become a taxidermist, only 28 states require a license, and Maine requires two exams, but there is no requirement for “experience”) Moose are ugly, their hide is a mess, and they shed like crazy. Was the taxidermist from Los Angeles? To me, this moose looks like it just won a contest for Miss Moose International. Good grief!
DiMillos Marina – Portland Maine
While it rained heavily for several days, Exhale was safely docked at DiMillos, a walkable location with exceptional staff. Sorry, there were no great photos taken at this location.
Wentworth by the Sea
This hotel is reminiscent of the Grand Hotel on Makinac Island, MI – celebrating sweet memories with Gypsy and the Gillespies. Hello Doyles! Thanks for making the drive. It was nice to see you again.
Strawberry Banke, Portsmouth, NH.
The ladies (Gail, Carol and MS) went to Portsmouth, NH to explore Strawberry Banke, the oldest neighborhood in New Hampshire. No surprise, the community is built on a “bank” of elevated ground and strawberries were once abundant.
With 37 restored buildings from the 17th to the 19th centuries (that’s crazy old), ranging in size from very small to mini mansions, all but one rest on their original foundations. Amazing.
This photo proves tiny houses date back hundreds of years.
This is for Dave and Holly Lubs – we got up way before breakfast to take this photo for you!
Next up: Boston, MA – Donna and Steven with a “v”, you should be here.
Spoiler alert for Megan– special guests from the Boston Aquarium!
YES! That’s the name of one of our favorite restaurants in southwest Florida, where we often order the seafood tower with a generous portion of lobster, mussels, clams, crab and so much more. So yummy. But this is an introduction to a REAL Lobster Lady.
Say hello to Lobster Lady Allyssa (Ah-Liss-ah). She works 5 days a week as a crew member for a well-established lobster fisherman. Born into the trade, from a long line of lobster men, she is the only female on the crew.
Even more impressive, this 36-year-old mom (2 kids) told us she owns 140 lobster traps that she manages and harvests solo, and, on average, one out of every four lobsters are keepers. Her boat is named “Just One More” and she is a strong, tough, cookie.
This sleepy little village was a surprise. Enjoy this beautiful landscaping.
Spectacular schooner in the fog.
If a summer in Maine conjures up an image of relaxing outdoor activity, this pic is for you.
Yes, it’s been a long time since Maddie got a haircut.
Some of the places we have visited have been so spectacular we decided to visit again!
Port Clyde, St George
Port Clyde was so small the family owned grocery store closed at 3 pm. Yet, with a little help from guests on board Tonto’s Reward – Brenda and Phil – we discovered some wonderful local hangouts. On the theme of Lobster ladies, this restaurant worker shared the technique to safely secure and boil lobsters. Note to self: remove the rubber band before cooking.
Mooring ball math
We know there are a few of you out there who hate math. And we know a few more who don’t like to disclose your exact age, conveniently subtracting a few years … so maybe it was just a harmless little rounding down. When the mooring field limits the allowable size of the boat, 50 something is close enough.
Moonlight Magic over Tonto’s Reward
Linekin Bay Resort
From the mooring ball we took a launch (think water taxi) to the resort. Maddie loved this long ramp.
Established in 1918, the Lin-e-kin Bay Camp was once a “Healthy, Happy, Saltwater Camp for Girls on the East Coast of Maine.” That’s a quote, verbatim, from the camp brochure. Considering the time period, it might have been a very progressive school.
Bath time for Maddie
Special thanks to the extremely kind and talented Faye Turke, Treble in Paradise, who patiently groomed Maddie the very next day!
Back to BoothBay Harbor!
Another repeatable location is BoothBay Harbor. This time we selected the marina on the northwest side of the harbor. Another small, family run marina. Kim, the Dockmaster, was amazing! We will be back for sure.
Guests on Tonto’s Reward, we sincerely enjoyed the company of Phil and Brenda, except for that one time, when he decided to take a video of someone dancing in Rockport …
Next Stops – Portland, Maine; Ann Arbor, MI (family detour); Wentworth by the Sea, Cape Elizabeth, Maine
As we entered into Bar Harbor with the distressed sailboat in tow, Gail from Tonto’s Reward pointed out we would soon be close to Silver Shalis, again, the yacht belonging to Larry Silverstein. The unique powder-blue hull makes her stand out from a distance. Along our journey we have seen her several times.
After rescuing the sailboat without a scratch, my Bar Harbor story now includes a very rare and special viewing of Mr. Silverstein (my friends refer to him as my “uncle” Larry, although we still don’t know if he’s truly related).
It’s my story, and I am sticking to it.
We spent the first night in Bar Harbor on a Mooring Ball, peacefully surrounded by a myriad of boats, large and small. The next morning – as we were enjoying our coffee with the rolling waves – off our bow Capt. Rick noticed a small rowboat closely followed by the familiar blue tender from Silver Shalis.
Admittedly, the person rowing may or may not have been Uncle Larry. As pointed out by David Bernstein, the rower had on a large hat, making it impossible to see the face of the person. The rower, small in stature, was progressing slowly with intermittent rest breaks along the way.
On the bow of the escort tender a uniformed crew member from Silver Shalis stood guard, ready to dive in and rescue if need be. Impressively, the rowing continued for more than an hour. If indeed it was Uncle Larry – reported to be 90-years young – I say BRAVO!
Introducing Mr. Hospitality
The 2nd night we managed to get space on the town dock, where we rocked and rolled, a lot. With that said, we enjoyed this spot, and stayed for a total of 4 restful days. This picture is for all our Looper friends (especially Misty Pearl, Houlegan, and Gypsy). Yes, it’s Herb Seaton on our “back porch.” Thanks for the memories.
The sunsets are award winning in Bar Harbor.
Outdoor movies in the Park! Great way to enjoy the view.
Moose in Agamont Park
We find it interesting that although it is heavily marketed, you never see a moose (unlike in AK where they interrupt the flow of traffic and gladly walk across your lawn). Guessing the moose don’t get royalties, either.
Frenchboro, Outer Long Island
On to another remote location. Lunt Harbor is well known for its Dockside Deli. Accessible by dinghy, it was a treasure.
Frenchboro is a quaint, picturesque town. This First Class Outhouse was up the hill from the deli.
We interrupt this story with a shameless bragging moment from this very proud Mama.
“Production begins in Buffalo, New York on Alejandro Monteverde’s ‘The Untitled Cabrini Film’. Christiana Dell’Anna, John Lithgow, David Morse & Rolando Villazón star in powerful true story of unknown American legend, Frances Xavier Cabrini … Costume Designer: Alisha Silverstein”.
The story is based in the 1890’s, and the costumes are spectacular! Wow, Mija.
Not only is Alisha the Costume Designer extraordinaire, she made a cameo appearance in the movie (her first ever) and she scored a roll for two of her Alaskan cousins who spent a VERY memorable week in New York. Here’s an unauthorized photo of their restaurant scene! Happy Birthday Carly (August 6) and Alisha (August 19).
The Maine Event Story continues. We found yet another adorable little village, and stayed an extra night in North Haven. Check out this community billboard, better than Facebook, especially when there is virtually no Verizon cell service, again.
Local artists flourish
Sadly, the ice cream sold out before Capt Rick arrived.
We anchored near Devil Island, with little to no visibility AGAIN.
As the fog slowly lifted we could see the water was like a sheet of glass.
We leave you with a trendy drink for Tyler :-). See you soon!
Celebrating Milestones: Birthday: August 19 – Alisha Silverstein, August 23 – Matt Jackson; Anniversary: August 19 – Sandra and Danielle Ginsburg; August 20 – Howard and Ann Freedman; August 22 – Wedding Nuptials – Megan Ginsburg in Ann Arbor, Michigan
On the VHS radio we heard “Slow moving trawler just off the lighthouse, could you give us a hand? Tow boat US is not answering our call.”
The Hinkley sailboat was tangled up with a Lobster trap, rendering their prop immovable. Before calling for help the hardy sailor plunged repeatedly into the brutal Atlantic waters, reportedly for over 30 minutes, attempting to cut the lobster trap free, to no avail.
With a successful toss of a line from the bow of the distressed sailboat to Exhale (good catch, Mary), reinforced by Eagle Scout-worthy marine knots from Capt Rick, Exhale had the 48-foot sailboat nervously under tow, roughly 75 feet off our stern, with heavy seas jostling her to and fro.
Stationed in the cockpit of Exhale, communicating with Capt Rick via my trusty eartec headset, my job was to monitor and report on the lines as we traveled toward the next port.
After nearly 3 hours of rocking and rolling with the waves, I jinxed the moment with something stupid like, “looking good from here” followed by a sudden “Oh, Shit!”
The line snapped free – no longer secured to the bow of the sailboat. Capt Rick dropped the engines to idle. A rush of adrenalin fueled my desperation as I frantically pulled the heavy sinking line into Exhale’s cockpit – the worst possible outcome would be entanglement in our prop – leaving two boats dead in the water.
With the line retrieved – courtesy of a serious cardio workout – the next major challenge was safely reconnecting. First, Exhale had to maneuver as close as possible to the sailboat. Then, someone had to accurately toss nearly 100 feet of HEAVY water-soaked line from the stern of Exhale to the aggressively bobbing bow of Halcyon. That someone was Capt. Rick, placing me at the helm of the boat. We needed to get as close as possible to the sailboat, without injury or damage. The task was far worse than parallel parking on a hill – with a lot of blind spots – coupled with a critical line toss! Major kudos to Capt Rick who gave steady direction and remained calm and collected during this tricky operation.
Commercial Break – Deja Vu
Here’s a little deja vu / throwback moment from 2018, when we flawlessly executed a certain bread and cookie exchange – in motion – with Bushranger!
Back to our Story
Capt. Ned opted to add 50 feet of heavy line – by tying in two other lines – to increase the separation between the boats and reduce the strain on his bow cleats that secured the lines.
Exhale tentatively throttled forward as the crew (Maddie and me) resumed watch.
Winter Harbor, 4:06 pm
Our destination was the mooring field of Bar Harbor. We all breathed a sigh of relief as the harbor came into view. In total, we towed Halcyon 21 miles, over the course of 4 hours.
We were greeted by Scout, the dinghy from Tonto’s Reward. Aptly named, the tender served as a Pilot boat, guiding Halcyon to the open mooring ball and helping them get secured.
An hour later, Ned and his wife Mary paddled over via their little rowboat. It was delightful to finally meet them. When asked if they could sponsor a nice dinner for our troubles, Capt Rick smiled warmly and said thanks, but no thanks. Instead, he asked, “Do us a big favor, when the time is right – pay it forward. “
By the way, Ned, a VERY experienced sailor, never seemed rattled by the ordeal. It turned out he had borrowed the 60 year-old, pristine, sailboat. Excuse me, but WHO loans out their classic Hinkley? Clearly the owner was very chill, evidenced by the definition of Halcyon:
Finally, a shout out to Heroes Jim and Susan, who paid it forward when they rescued a boat in distress during the loop; and towed it for miles and miles and miles. On the continued theme of pay it forward, we leave you with the t-shirt of the day:
We are enjoying life, at a much slower pace than we are accustomed to – due in part to the lack of cellular service for Verizon customers . . . So far, the Maine Event has been absolutely unforgettable. Ah yes, that brings us to flower question from the prior blog post.
Thanks to everyone who responded. Special mention goes to Grant. We know your forgetful buddy Archibald loves to clown around. Next time consult with Betty, who would advise you that the Forget-me-not is the official state flower of Alaska, my beloved home state. Winner, winner, winner – my dearest hometown friend Adnerb, miss you so much!
We have been spending more time at anchor – capturing beautiful sunsets.
Maine is well known for it’s Lighthouses, like this one in Tremont
Aptly named, we anchored out next to the seals. These seals departed when the fishermen arrived. (8 second video to be added at a later date …).
Capt Rick has been on a quest for the best soft serve ice cream, which is not easy to find. So far, the winner is in Southwest Harbor where the chocolate actually tastes like chocolate!
“What’s up, butter cup?”One of Capt. Rick’s favorite sayings – although this might be the first time he has ever seen a field of the flowers!
Little Cranberry Island; Islesford, Maine
A dink ride to Little Cranberry Island took us to the popular Islesford Dock Restaurant.
The food was good, the service was even better. We took a brief stroll up the hill, in quest of the local post office.
We heard some crazy trivia about how this post office ranked #1 in the sale of postage stamps in the U.S, I am guessing per capita, which would not take much given the resident population is a mere 65 (Wikipedia: 2013 data).
Look at these antique mailboxes! True Story: A long time ago, I served as an unpaid high school intern at the local Post Office. In Seward, AK we had the exact same kind of boxes, with a spin combo or maybe three letters. Yes, we read every postcard that we received, and yes, it was like Mayberry, where the post office staff gossiped all day long about the comings and goings of the whole town – resident population roughly 2,000.
Seward’s Lydia Jacoby Wins Gold!
On the topic of Seward, AK Congrats to Olympic swimmer Lydia Jacoby, she won gold in Tokyo for the 100-meter breaststroke. The 17-year old athlete is Alaska’s first Olympic Swimmer! You are right, swimming in AK is not a common sport.
Roque Island – Lobster Mania
Not on the original itinerary, we heard about this secluded island from Sean at KYC. Rarely crowded, it was a quiet haven, with a white sandy beach – a rare sight in Maine.
These lobster boats were rafted together – a strange site, indeed. As we drifted by with Maddie in our dinghy, the friendly fishermen told us there were LOTS of freshly cooked Lobsters on shore, “Please join in and eat as much as you want.”. Wait, what did you say?
Most of the folks were done eating and had moved away from the food tables as we were offered to partake in their “leftovers”. Then we saw the GIGANTIC steaming pot – with more than 20 cooked critters remaining. Next to the pot were the carcasses of more than 100 lobsters that had already been devoured. wow. Wow. WOW! Let’s just say our Maine Lobster craving was more than satiated. Sorry I don’t have photos – trust me, it was a delicious buttery mess.
Now Capt Rick is raving about how Roque Island, Maine is “the very best gunk hole, ever” possibly de-throning Cayo Costa from its long-standing perch (Don’t’ worry, Donna, Caryl and Gail; Pelican Bay is still #1 for me).
A New York Minute
Happy birthday to my beautiful niece Carly – so excited you and Austin are in New York supporting Alisha’s latest movie project! Mija, your costumes are absolutely exquisite, of course!!
Celebrating Milestones. Birthdays: Andrea Davis and Carly Maurer, August 3; Weston Wayne Sumpter Straley, August 4; Tanja Elliott, August 6; David Hendry, August 10; Romeo and Ruby, August 11. Anniversary: Mike and sue Gillespie, August 13.
After a long stretch of rain, the clouds lifted, leaving blue sky for as far as the eye could see.
Buck’s Harbor Marine, Brooksville, ME
John Buck (similar in name to my beloved brother-in-law, John Buckendahl) and his family run a charming marina. From the mooring field it was a quick dinghy ride to the land.
Outdoor Shower – clean and convenient.
This Van is for Sam
Dog is my Co-Pirate. Now that’s a great t-shirt.
Okay followers, including @DougAndDanaAndABoat, no tags this time, 1) what is this flower and 2) why is it of significance to me? Cleverness encouraged, with a real answer intertwined.
Go ahead, Identify that wild blue flower in your comments!
From Buck’s harbor we motored to Brooklin, in the fog, again.
Wooden Boat School
As we headed to the school, David Bernstein observed a marine tragedy …. A moment of silence for this little guy.
David and Gail lead the way to the WoodenBoat School, where we observed plenty of retired dudes hard at work. Faye and Tom rode along as well.
From Kayaks to Sailboats, exquisite craftsmanship. Hand-milled wood (Sam, you would have enjoyed this).
Kollegewidgwok Yacht Club , Brooklin
Don’t worry, we can’t pronounce it either. Call it KYC. It was another beautiful stop. We never get tired of this landscape.
Blue Hill, Maine
Photo of three boats together, courtesy of Treble.
Another sweet little harbor – we were the largest boats in the mooring field.
The Garmin reading on the dinghy captured the days low and high tides in Blue Hill Harbor. You can do the math, the difference is over 12 feet. At low tide, you cannot access the town dock, as you are completely surrounded by bedrock and mud. The terrain might be heaven for seals, but it is not navigable for any type of watercraft – not even kayaks.
Actual dinghy ride conversation:
Mary, “This dinghy ride (at high tide) is very different from our ride yesterday (at low tide).”David,“Yeees, there are a lot less rocks.”Gail, “Hmmm. I think we have the same number of rocks.”
Blue Hill, Maine
From KYC we took the dinghy to Blue Hill – you can get there by water in a brief window of time – from two hours before until two hours after high tide.
A quaint little town, the City Hall is a local treasurer.
Blue Hill Grocery
Not your typical grocery store, this little treasure has an unexpected collection of retro games. And now for a blast from the way back. Recognize this?
Dinner at ArborVine, Blue Hill
We successfully made reservations for 6, and had the most unexpected meal in a remote spot. Amazing, and worth a return trip.
Maddie and her alligator buddy, wishing for dry land. This is not staged.
Maddie Sue often carries her little buddy around the boat. The gator has been her constant companion, from Long Beach California, for roughly 10 years. I keep thinking I should ask her vet to officially declare Miss gator as a comfort pet – just can’t figure out how to get it TSA clearance.
Moonrise – enjoy the beauty.
Anchored out, again, Maddie makes the most of the situation.
Celebrating Milestones. Anniversary: Larry & Laura, July 26. Birthdays: SuperWoman Diana Giraldo, July 28; Ann Freedman, July 31.
Simple living, with new friends. So far, Castine is our favorite respite in Maine.
Let’s start with the small world syndrome.
The owner of Otter’s Eatery, Rob DeGennaro, also owns a few familiar spots in Florida, including Ichabod’s (yum!), Nervous Nellie, RC Otter’s, the Island Cow on Sanibel, La Captiva Island Inn, Hungry Heron, and several more.
Housed in the former Dennett’s Wharf building on Sea Street, Otter’s Eatery is a casual, family style restaurant with delicious food! And, don’t you just love the whimsical logo – notice the Florida-style shirt on that otter! To our delight, after chatting with Capt. Rick (who was wearing a similar shirt, no surprise), and realizing the common Florida connection, Rob offered Exhale the floating dock for two nights! A much smoother experience than the rocking mooring ball. Thanks, Rob! Maddie appreciated the close proximity to the park – we will be back.
Castine Walking Tour
We explored the town with our personal guide, Gail, who took us on a walking tour filled with hysterical trivia.
What a fabulous concept! The miniatures in the gallery were adorable. We only wish we had something to exchange.
We never get tired of the beautiful architecture in Maine. Built on bedrock, these structures withstand the test of time.
Wildflowers, vibrant and serene
While Tonto took a detour for some repairs, Exhale remained in Castine for an extra night or two.
Pentagoet Inn and Wine Bar
Built in 1894, the inn is Castine’s oldest, original “summer hotel” still welcoming guests of Penobscot Bay. This Queen Anne Victorian style hotel has a prominent three-story turret, gables, and a delightful wraparound porch.
Lured in by the promise of “wine perfectly paired with small plates“, we made reservations for a table to enjoy the evening jazz on the porch. Let’s just say it was Not what we imagined. Suffice to saythe cook needed some lessons from Craig Adford, it was a weak attempt, with very little offered.
What do you do when the meal is a bust? Find a better option! Meet Danny, Murphy, and Bernie.
Danny Murphy’s Irish Pub is a local spot that opens AFTER the last tourist boat departs. Named after the two Maltese pupsters, the proprieter, Bernie, pours a cold beer, accompanied by a hot pizza, worth the wait, and priced to attract return visitors.
Don’t be afraid, it doesn’t taste fishy at all, and it goes well with pub food.
Hold on tight, Maddie
The floating dock at Otter’s was a great find. BUT, the tide swing is more than 10 feet, we think the floating ramp was a 45-degree angle.
At one point, we were almost level with the restaurant. Notice the water marks on the dock pilings.
The run to Camden was about 4 hours, going super super slow. The water was flat and the weather delightful. We docked next to Sapphire Star, she hails from Juneau, AK. Notice the big dipper. Mr. Kaplan was a long way from home.
Camden foot bridge
Another fix it project
Did I mention that Capt. Rick loves projects!?! Broken slats require a mega toothpick.
Wish you were here, Chris Moles.
Translated: Black Vulture, a wise bird that picks up the leavings. This magnificent boat is 20 years old, and clean as a whistle. Cared for with a LOT of pride.
We have said it before, the best part of boating is the friends who join you, and, the people you meet along the way.
This one is for Mija. Introducing Bruce Kessler, the son of a clothing designer – a true living legend. An American racing driver, film and tv director his story is amazing. Holy crap. He’s 88. We encourage you to take a look at his Wikipedia page, and read the story about James Dean. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bruce_Kessler
Plus, here’s an insane list of movie and tv credits. Found on IMDB. Please comment on your favorite!!
On the theme of being cold this picture missed the last post from Booth Bay Harbor. Thanks to David B, Rick was well-bundled, with a proper coat.
The run from Booth Bay to Rockland was bumpy, until Maddie remembered to turn on the Sea Keeper. Our favorite feature on the new Exhale, the gyro creates a smooth ride when the seas are not so calm.
Have you ever seen a tall ship? How about two schooners together?
For your viewing pleasure
We were joined in Rockland by Claude and JoAnn Welles, friends we had cruised with in the Bahamas.
Rockland is home to countless parks, museums, galleries, and boutiques. Local restaurants offered an array of farm to table and fresh fish options, with far too many to choose from!
Harbor Square Gallery
Thanks to JoAnn and Claude we found a perfect local gem. Best little gallery, ever. Built in 1912, this former bank (Security Trust), is magnificent. Inside we toured the underground vault, the main floor, mezzanine, and a roof top garden – an oasis of trees and sculpture. Every nook and cranny had a sweet surprise. My personal favorite was the bank manager’s corner office on the mezzanine level – complete with a private balcony and exterior staircase. Oh, Peter Zamarillo, may you rest in peace, the strategically located manager’s exit would have been well used by you!
This link will give you more interior pics. Click Here: Check it out!
And then there were 10
With Rick and Karen Smith (not pictured) on board Tonto (4), the Welles on Exhale (4) and the Turkes from Treble (2) it was a full house. After a visit to the local seafood market, another fresh fish dinner was prepared by Chef Capt. Rick and enjoyed by all. Thanks again Gail and Greg for the yummy recipes.
Trivia for our friends from Doyle Lumber: The Native Indians called Rockland Catawamteak, meaning “great landing place.” Greg Doyle, notice the “teak” part in the name. Maybe it should have been Cat-a-wam-oak, or Cat-a-wam-pine, since this location is a BIG oak and pine spot.
As Elsa approached, we moved from Rockland to Rockport. Distance between the two is about 6 nautical miles, or roughly 45 minutes – shortest run ever
Arriving in Rockport in record time, Maddie seemed a little confused by the short journey. No time for a nap, no chance to bark at anything. What the heck?
Ms. Abbie Leonard is the Harbormaster in Rockport; she gets more than a gold star for customer care. Most shocking, Rockport Harbor marina is a City dock! Would you believe Abbie called Tonto, and then spoke with us, to make sure we knew the dock could be rocking and “a tad bit uncomfortable” when Elsa arrived. She posted this bulletin on the website:
MARINE SAFETY INFORMATION BULLETIN 03-21
Date: July 7, 2021 Time: 1500
Safety Alert in Preparation for Tropical Storm ELSA
We are currently tracking Tropical Storm ELSA’s path along the Atlantic coast. The most recent National Weather Service Hurricane Center predictions indicate gale force winds (sustained winds of 39 – 54 MPH) may impact some Northern New England ports within the next 72 hours. Ports in the Northern New England Captain of the Port Zone remain open to all commercial traffic.
Restore your faith people, government employees are nice people too.
The harbor is absolutely picturesque.
Sadie and the Train – Fancy a Cuppa?
With a watchful eye for the imminent rain, a handful of silver-haired female artists were painting the historic structures and picturesque landscape surrounding the Harbor.
Miss Sadie looked a bit chilled. Perhaps it was the lovely British accent that prompted me to offer a spot of tea … or maybe it was the reminder of our sweet friends, Maaaack and Heather Rutherford on Bushranger. Sadie’s subject was the Vulcan Steam Locomotive, a little 040 saddletank steam locomotive dating back to the late 1800s.
The Maine Event
And now for a shameless commercial break. 6 adults, 3 trawlers, 2 dogs, and 2 international bears. Look for pictures by Gail Bernstein and Simon Murray in a future edition of Power & MotorYacht. Details later.
Sea Haven, Rockport, ME
Weather Report: about that looming storm – Elsa diverted to the east, thank goodness!
No, Elsa did not bring any snow to Rockport, Maine, but she dumped enough rain to drown mosquitoes. No worries, now there is plenty of standing water to restart the process.
Did you know there are over 3,000 types of mosquitoes worldwide, with 40 types in Maine. I want to know, why would anyone actually signup to count and catalogue those pests? Oh, and which states have the most mosquitoes? Count down #5: North Carolina, #4: Georgia, #3: Louisiana, #2: Texass, and drum roll please, #1 is Florida. No surprise.
When it Rains – take a nap
Maddie said, when you can’t do anything ab0ut the storm, take a nap.
Finally, a little local humor for Marty Liljequist.
And yes, we love our multi-function CrockPot! Thanks, Marty, we think of you often.
Next Destination: Castine, ME
Celebrating Milestones: Birthdays: Rodger Swink, Reality, July 7; Jamie Hendry, July 10; Laura Jo Straley, July 13. Miss you beyond measure.
We made it to Maine! You might recognize the infamous 25-foot statue at the entrance to Brown’s Wharf. This iconic fisherman was installed in 1968; loving maintenance of this fiberglass, rebar and cement giant keep him standing strong.
Before we share the excitement in Maine, let us backtrack a few days to share our adventures with the Doyles.
A heartfelt thank you to Larry and Mary Dodge – who met us in Gloucester, loaned us their vehicle, and picked up a mooring ball on their North Pacific 45. It was spectacular seeing you
A memorable – moving – feast.
Gail and Greg Doyle brought fresh Haddock and all the fixings. It was insanely delicious. Look Trevor!! Can you believe we comfortably sat 8 in the cockpit.
The Doyles traveled on board to Newbury Port, a quaint place with a sense of magic.
A short drive from Newbury Port you will find Salisbury, MA. We never saw a salisbury steak.
This local spot is a favorite for Gail Doyle. We know why!
Kennebunk Port, ME
We made it to Maine – and it was record heat. It was beyond confusing to feel the temps approaching 100 degrees. But no need to complain, the cold weather is right around the corner. Trust me.
Boothbay Harbor, ME
This tugboat hosts a lovely restaurant and pub. Worth the visit.
Possibly the best bar we have ever visited is found at the Carousel Marina. We felt like we just walked into Cheers, and we might have been the youngest patrons. These crusty fishermen were a classic example of the Maine locals.
We are currently holed up for a storm, spending a few extra days at Brown’s Wharf, well, because weather happens.
Next destination: Rockland, Maine. Not sure when.
Name That Port
Okay all you world travelers, can you identify this port? Leave us a comment with your guess. The answer will be in the next post.
Celebrating Milestones: Birthday Wishes to Leo, 7/2; Kathy Avanzino, 7/3. Anniversary Love to Capt Rick and Mary S, 7/3; Tanja and Jason Elliott, 7/4.
Boat for Sale – Steven with a “v”, this could be your next boat! W Class W.22 $189,000, trailer included.
“Then and Now: Tales from the Big Chair.” The 19-foot Windsor rocking chair marks the entrance to the Redwood Library & Athenaeum.
What do you think, Dana, will this one fit in your cockpit?
Speaking of family – introducing our new boat mascot, Ruth Gins-bird.
New Bedford-Fairhaven Hurricane Barrier
Now that’s a safe harbor!
The largest structure of its kind in the world. This unique hurricane barrier is the ultimate proof of Murphy’s Law as it has never been hit by a Category 3 hurricane.
Built in 1966 it cost $1,000 a foot, is long enough to span the 3.5 mile width of New Bedford, MA is as high (and is wider) than The Great Wall of China, and has enough steel in it to build a Navy destroyer. Its two huge steel navigational-sector gates weigh 400 tons apiece-each 35 tons heavier than the biggest locomotive ever built-and each as tall as a six-story house.
For more than 20 years, New Bedford has been the nation’s highest-grossing commercial fishing port.
In 2019, New Bedford reported $451 million worth of fish hauled in by its boats. The number one catch? Sea-scallops 84%. The second-ranked Port is Naknek, in Bristol Bay Alaska, which had $289 million worth of landings. The number 1 catch is salmon.
Sunset with Geese
New Bedford Whaling Museum
Established in 1903, the well-funded museum is overwhelming.
Mr. Wikipedia says, its collections include over 750,000 items, including 3,000 pieces of scrimshaw and 2,500 logbooks from whaling ships, both of which are the largest collections in the world, as well as five complete whale skeletons
The marina is scary, at best, with a strong current and a tide swing of 11.5 feet. Just imagine, these pilings were almost submerged when we docked, making it a tricky maneuver, now they are over 10 feet high; Exhale was “sandwiched” into a narrow slip.
The oldest town in Cape Cod, settled in 1637, it is named for the seaport Sandwich, Kent, England. Yes, there is still an Earl of Sandwich in England.
This is for Maureen – can’t make this stuff up
Hugs and Kisses for my family. Introducing my youngest cousin, Cali.
Next up: Gloucester, MA; coming on board – Gail and Greg Doyle!
Celebrating Milestones. Birthdays: Ann Hughes, June 22; Mike Gillespie, June 23; Joe Occhino, June 26; Anniversary: Jamie and David Hendry, June 27.
Sunken by a gribble; when reality bites. Not an evil alien force from Star Trek, these invasive crustaceans are actually a type of clam. As their hard shells scraped away and hollowed out wood, they created a massive tunnel system from the inside, leaving significant damage in the hull of a wooden ship, not easily detected until it was waaaay too late. Think super sonic termites with a ravenous appetite.
Sag Harbor, NY – Moorings June 12, June 13
Exhale stayed in the mooring fields in Sag Harbor, with easy dinghy access to the sweet town. Tonto’s Reward was close by, at Sag Harbor Yacht Club. Together we toured Sag Harbor for two days.
Dining options in Sag Harbor were numerous, with lots of COVID cautious outdoor seating. You probably know, Capt Rick prefers to wear shorts and Hawaiian shirts, year round. As the temps dipped into the 60’s the rest of us had on long slacks and sweaters. Generously (out of pity), the staff offered him a blanket – actually two blankets – to warm his chilly bones.
3 Mile Harbor, anchorage – June 14
Exhale and Tonto’s Reward found a spectacular anchorage in 3 Mile Harbor. Yes, dinner on Tonto’s Reward was scrumptious.
An easy dinghy ride away is the new East Hampton Pointe. Magnificent does not describe the luxury of this “nearly” finished resort – worth a visit on the return route south when the resort will be fully opened.
Ready, Aim, Destroy
When you anchor out, you need to arm yourself for invasions.
It’s a Hard Life for a Boat Dog
Let’s be very clear. This is not what Maddie had in mind when asked if she wanted to go for a “walk”.
Mystic Seaport Museum, CT – June 15, June 16
We docked AT the museum. An exquisite location, dockage includes passes to the grounds. The largest maritime museum in the US, notable for its collection of historic sailing vessels and for the re-creation of a 19th century seafaring village (more than 60 historic buildings), complete with well-educated docents in delightful period costumes. It’s mind boggling. So expansive it cannot be covered in two days (19 acres), we will be back.
The town is easy walking distance, with a plethora of unique shops and dining options. We give high praise for Anthony J’s bistro.
Have you seen the movie, Mystic Pizza! Here’s a little local trivia. Released in the fall of 1988, the movie centers on the Zelapos family restaurant, including the lives and loves of three waitresses, and the mystical family recipe that made the pizza famous (in real life, and in the movie).
This is for my nephew. Found at the entrance of the Seaport Marine Museum, this gem is called Kingston II.
For the Birds, or, LOOK UP!
A bird whizzed by our heads, maybe it was a sparrow, not too sure. The bird kept flying back and forth along the rafters at a rapid rate of speed, ignoring the human intruders. As we approached it’s turn around spot – well marked by a notable deposit of bird poop on the floor – I saw the nest overhead.
If this video works you will see and hear the magic of Mystic.
Best broom closet, ever!
Behind this door you will find a little slice of heaven – and we are NOT talking about cleaning supplies, or pizza.
A GIANT warehouse of historic boats that have been, or are being, restored.
This gem is 23’6″ x 6’2″, she’s similar in size to our Duffy electric boat. Given the name on the boat and the date, ca 1906, is it possible she belonged to Thomas and Mina Edison? The museum staff did not know. But the timing is plausible. To learn more about Mina, click here.
Exhale will be taking a short respite in Newport, RI – June 17 through June 20. If you are nearby, give Capt. Rick a call!
Milestones: Paul & Celeste’s anniversary, June 14; Heather Rutherford’s birthday (Bushranger), June 15. Celebration of Life Dianne Gill, June 19, 2021
“… I need a little give and take, the New York Times, the Daily News … I’m in a New York state of mind” Go ahead, name that tune.
It was a privilege to see Lady Liberty again, a symbol of freedom dating back to 1886. Cruising with Treble in Paradise and Tonto’s Reward, the iconic sculpture on Liberty Island greets all who enter New York Harbor. More on that in a moment.
Cape May – South Jersey Marina – Cape Island – June 5
Our stay in Cape May was very brief.
Arrived in Cape May around 3 pm, just enough time to do some quick shopping at their well stocked Ships Store – always supporting the local economy!
Sandy Hook, NJ –anchorage: June 6
Departure at 5:15 am – headed to open waters. Like an energizer bunny we did not stop in Atlantic City, NJ; or Barnegat Bay, or Mantoloking, or Manasquan. Cuz when the big water is calm you keep going, and going, and going.
Dropped an anchor in Sandy Hook, NJ at 7:00 pm. Over 100 nm, in roughly 14 hours! My union rep is NOT doing a good job. It was a beautiful sunset, anchored out with 3 flemings, Treble and Exhale.
New York Harbor
New York, New York – passing through the big Apple. Our plan was to anchor out behind the Statue of Liberty (2018 with Houlegan, Again) – but that area has closed, so we motored through New York City. Ain’t no stopping us now!
I LOVE New York. In my opinion, nothing compares to New York City. It is a vibrant blend of history and promise; home to a diverse, resilient population; a magnet for visitors attracted to a myriad of stimulating sights and smells. Lots of smells (Capt. Rick says, “some, not so good”). For me, the Big Apple represents the steady heartbeat of America. Beat on, sweet NYC, beat strong!
Tonto’s Reward cruised along side us. The splendid skyline reinforces “a New York State of Mind” (written by Billy Joel, 1976). Seriously now, is there anything more phallic than the World Trade Center??
World Trade Center: 1973-2001
Originally seven structures, WTC1 at 1368 feet, and WTC2 at 1362 were the tallest buildings in the world.
In July 2001 the NY Port Authority leased the WTC buildings to Silverstein Properties, Inc. No, I am not a shareholder.
Brilliant – the new World Trade Center, opened in Nov 2014, is 1776 feet high – it’s NOT a coincidence.
Safe Harbor Capri Mooring, Port Washington, NY June 7
Port Washington Launch, David and Gail Bernstein
Early childhood learning for Oysters. Curious what they teach the babies …
Did you know Billy Joel has a home in Oyster Bay, NY? Reportedly the mansion on the hill, and the house at the waterfront are his, along with all the surrounding greenery. Now that’s a New York State of Mind.
Oyster Bay Brewing Company. Beer test – what would you chose? Sideways – can you identify the beer that is mine? Here’s a clue: the 4 people at the brewery were David and Gail Bernstein, Capt. Rick and me. Round of drinks: 2 IPAs, 1 Original American Lager and 1 Barnrocker.
Safe Harbor Bruce & Johnson’s Marina: Branford, CT June, 10 and 11.
Yes, REM, we are in Connecticut! With COVID protocols in constant flux, Yale discouraged visitors, but we will be back in the fall to tour the campus with Tonto. We did find these architectural gems:
Branford Public Library – MDCCCXCIII – Roman Numeral time. Do you know the year this library was completed? Answer below.
Finally, a little deja vu for my brother and his boys. Notice the Tonka truck is getting buried in that sandbox.
Milestones: Happy birthday Gramma Finny, June 9
Next up: Sag Harbor Launch & Moorings, on Long Island, New York
Capt. Rick loves projects, and he keeps the engine room pristine clean (you can never have too many paper towels, right Sideways!?). Thankfully Capt. Rick has a keen ability to diagnose and fix almost anything – including the air conditioner sensor. The task of putting everything neatly back into the cupboard was a bigger challenge.
Plans? We don’t need no stinking plans!
It is no surprise that before we commenced our planned adventures on the Great Loop (~ 9-month voyage in 2018) both the schedule and the route were carefully charted. Ah yes, all you experienced boaters, you can hear the roar of laughter.
IF you stick to a schedule, you find yourself in rough waters. Simply stated, a rigid schedule is dangerous. For us, the reality of the ever changing water conditions, and a credible threat by the crew to jump ship, taught Rick to relax his planning mode a little (I said a little).
Three years after completing the Great Loop, the journey to Maine is “subject to change”. A loose schedule makes sense, EXCEPT when you face a national holiday. Memorial Day weekend is the official launch of summer boating everywhere. Translation: Good luck securing a last minute reservation at a marina, and forget about finding a quiet spot to anchor.
Giving Thanks to Mother Nature!
A nasty storm did us a favor, causing fair weather boaters to cancel their holiday plans, and opening up space at a well-protected marina, a respite from the storm.
Windmill Point, Virginia – May 29 (Saturday) and May 30 (Sunday)
The marina was “sold out” for the weekend. Sincere thanks to the harbor master who put Exhale on the wait list; he said only a handful of boats would arrive before the storm. Tied securely we stayed for two nights, pounded by the rain.
Spring Cove Marina, Solomon’s Island, Maryland – May 31, 2021
With the rain behind us, we traveled north to the beautiful Solomon’s Island.
Hello Annapolis, Maryland! – June 1 and June 2
Two days in Annapolis, rain free. Can you believe it Tim & June? Tied to a mooring ball (at $35 per night), we reunited with Tonto’s Reward (thanks for slowing down, Bert and EJ). Treble in Paradise arrived on June 2.
Annapolis architecture is divine, with well-preserved structures dating back nearly 400 years. Home to the US Naval Academy and St. John’s College, constructed in 1696, the area is extremely walkable with LOTS of local shops and restaurants. And it’s very dog friendly!
Celebrating June Pride
Annapolis City Center bronze statues – “Alex Haley, shares stories with a diverse group of children.”
“We must be in this place as one village. It is not enough that we learn to live together, we must learn to respect and love each other.” Mandinka Elder, Roots
Still Pond anchorage, Maryland – June 3, 2021
Anchored out with Tonto, we found a lovely gunk hole. What’s a gunk hole you ask?
Wikipedia says: Gunkholing is a boating term referring to a type of cruising in shallow or shoal water, meandering from place to place, spending the nights in coves. The term refers to the gunk, or mud, typical of the creeks, coves, marshes, sloughs, and rivers that are referred to as gunkholes.
Maddie takes her time on a little beach walk with the boys.
Delaware City, Delaware – June 4, 2021
The marina in Delaware City was a bit remote. Although it was slow to get an Uber or Lyft driver, there were plenty of bikes.
With great effort, the 3 musketeers are together again. Treble in Paradise, Exhale and Tonto’s Reward docked in tandem.
Thanks Treble for speeding up.
Milestones: Craig Adford, Amanda Saylor, Mark Marlow and Skyllar June bug, all on June 1; Sue Gillespie, June 2 and Lorrie Swink, June 3.
Congrats to #DougAndDanaAndABoat! The NP4906 – original Exhale, and former Mimi’s Oasis (Hello to Grant and Nancy Jonsson) – was officially named Tumbleweed; she’s “Back in the Saddle Again” :-). Looking forward to our reunion Doug and Dana!
Since European Settlers in the 1700s referred to swamps as “dismals”, wouldn’t that suggest the Dismal Swamp is really just a Swamp Swamp? I say, yes, yes! But, we’ll get back to the story of the Great Swamp in a moment. First a beautiful sunset from Georgetown, where we anchored out with Treble.
From Georgetown we traveled to Myrtle Beach. Destination: Barefoot Beach Marina. You were right, Beverly and Bruce (SeaTrek), don’t waste your time or your taste buds at the marina restaurant.
Looking for Real Estate in a Super Charged COVID market? Location is key. Celebrating Tiny Houses!
Wrightsville Beach, NC
Anchored out with Treble we were delighted with a spectacular sight – the end of the ILCA Atlantic Coast Regatta, 113 Lasers registered, plus all of the coaches and judges. Here’s to Gail, who is a former Certified Judge of that regatta.
Welcome back to Beaufort – that’s No Bow in North Carolina, of course. With easy access from the Town Dock, this quaint little town is home to some of the very best fresh crab. We highly recommend walking off the beaten path to the Beaufort Grocery Co. When it opens at 5 pm there is a line, for a reason.
Welcome aboard Jim and Susan Merritt. While the boys were doing yet another boat project, Susan and I got a private tour of the River Forest Manor, built in 1899. The dockmaster, Henry, is one of a handful of local residents who had the heart and vision to restore this gem into a magnificent wedding destination. The interior is stunning – check it out here: River Forest Manor
Elizabeth City, NC
Thanks to Gail Bernstein who encouraged us to progress on, we docked at the Mid Atlantic Christian University in Elizabeth City. The small dock located at the university was very accessible.
Trust me, you won’t find Sarah Palin here. This vibrant city is home to Ghost Harbor Brewing Company, and a growing number of trendy restaurants, romantic outdoor seating strung with Edison lights, all surrounded by exquisite historic buildings. REM – you would love the redevelopment!
Dismal Swamp, Visitors Center – giving thanks to George Washington
In 1728 William Byrd II named this coastal region the Dismal Swamp on a series of survey maps that established the boundaries of North Carolina and Virginia. Here’s a random factoid – although known as a scandalous philanderer, the well established lawyer and politician was admired for his early advocacy of small pox inoculation. Consider this a shout out to all of you who are now fully vaccinated!
In 1763 an opportunistic George Washington saw the potential for development. Originally more than one million acres, the canal section, connecting Elizabeth City, NC to Norfolk, VA was completed in 1805.
We docked at the Dismal Swamp Visitor’s Center, a familiar and fabulous stop. Ynot, there is another turtle bobble coming your way.
Be forewarned, the swamp has a plethora of snakes crawling around – Tyler will tell you definitively, “Grandpa doesn’t like snakes“.
Celebrating Memorial Day Weekend
It is with great respect that we remember those who fought to give us liberty and life, and we thank those that made the ultimate sacrifice for us. You shall never be forgotten.
Waterside, Norfolk VA – May 27 and 28
Norfolk, VA is home to the WORLD’s largest naval port. Fathom this military power: 75 naval ships, 134 aircraft, 14 piers and 11 aircraft hangars. The extremely active training center boasts 275 flights per day, the equivalent of one every six minutes.
Battleship Wisconsin – BB64
Is it just me, or does this look like a Pixar character? Comments encouraged!
More Pixar inspiration
Goodbye and thanks to Susan and Jim Merritt, Gold Loopers, who traveled with us from Belhaven, NC to Norfolk, VA. Looking forward to seeing you later this summer!
Milestones: May 28 – Happy Birthday to Scott Ginsburg and Miss Brennyn (5)
Congrats to Danielle, Sandra, Abbey and Leo – on the road.
Next stop: Windmill Point, VA. Roughly 8 miles north of Deltaville.
Did I mention how much we enjoy anchoring out? It’s peaceful and serene, with a little touch of magic.
Traveling with Tom and Faye Turke is like hanging out with Mary Poppins – they magically transform the flying bridge on their boat to accommodate a shocking array of activities: 1) a well loved exercise bike, 2) a top-notch pellet BBQ – to smoke a leg of lamb, 3) a professional quality sewing station – to design, sew and repair anything, and 4) a performance stage with high-tech equipment for a superb concert! In the words of our Grandson Tyler Jaxson – what the heck?!
Thanks for another private concert, Faye 🙂
Charleston, SC – May 16 thru May 19
A little Aquarium Magic
With so much time spent ON the water, we never tire of the majestic mysteries found IN the water.
Where is the Largest Aquarium in the World? Have you been there?
Singapore’s SEA (Southeast Asia) Aquarium holds the title of the largest aquarium in the world. It has over 12 million gallons of water and more than 800 species, with nearly 100,000 aquatic inhabitants in total.
South Carolina Aquarium, Charleston
First some stats: The Great Ocean Tank holds 385,000 gallons of water, at a depth of 42 feet, over 500 native critters can be seen swimming around.
Mesmerized by the Great Tank, unexpectedly, I found myself responding to the questions of a confident four (4) year old, in search of the giant eel. Amused, but happy to help, I quietly wondered – when, exactly, did I start looking like an approachable Grandma? Meanwhile Craig had captured the attention of a staff member, who surprised us with the offer of a backstage tour. Meet Jaxon (pronounced Jackson) Visit SCA
A rare treat, this video is taken from ABOVE the tank. Where they feed and care for the magnificent marine life.
video temporarily not available – check back later for this upload.
This is for Caryl
This is for Gail – Lobster tease – looking forward to Maine!
Ciao for now, Craig and Mo. On board from Fort Myers thru Charleston, Thanks for the Memories!
Let Your Nose be your Guide
My sense of smell is my super power. My husband is not happy about my hyper sensitive nose – pungent cleaning solvents are discouraged and verbally disparaged in my world – but he believes me when I say I smell a problem in the bilge, or spilled diesel, and will eventually find and resolve any leak.
For me, the best part of my super power is that I KNOW when I smell good food! With Rick working in LA for a few days, I got to meander on my own in the French Quarter of Charleston. Let me just share the Lunch Menu (click here) from this French gem. Gaulart & Maliclet Cafe. Mija, you would have enjoyed this, too! Te Amo!
Special Visitors: Our last night in Charleston included a bonus visit from Leland and Karen McClellan (Gold Loopers, Tiki Queen). Thanks for the great stories and great food (May 19, 2021)- See you in the fall, maybe in McClellenville.
Goodbye Charleston – we shall return.
Celebrating Milestones: Zachariah, May 25 – so Proud of you. “Life really begins at 40, up until then you are just doing research.” Carl Jung
Also May 25 – Happy Anniversary David and Gail Bernstein. We shall see you soon.
Kilkenny is timeless, by design. Situated in Richmond Hill, Georgia it was a good reminder to slow down, and not be so stressed.
Thankful for the trees
Kilkenny Creek Marina
The narrow floating docks are wobbly and plagued with intermittent gaps (Maddie refused to walk), but the folks working at the Marina were wonderful.
Thunderbolt Marina was a short drive from Savannah. Look at these beauties.
Hello Savannah, GA. You could spend a full week in Savannah, and barely scratch the surface!
American Prohibition Museum – Did you know the 18th Amendment did not make it illegal to drink alcohol during Prohibition? Instead, it made it illegal to buy or sell; a devastating blow to vendors. Yet, the creative, flexible entrepreneur prevailed. In 1919 a small drugstore, with 20 stores in Chicago, capitalized on a CREATIVE legal EXCEPTION – “prescription” whiskey. In a brilliant partnership with the federal warehouses, more than 8 million gallons of “seized” whiskey was repackaged, and sold by pharmacists nationwide. The drugstore’s name? Walgreens.
Nice Try … Then there was Yuengling Ice Cream, made in Pottsville. Can you imagine buying Ice cream from a Beer Manufacturer? It is no surprise, the product failed.
Harbour Town Pier, Hilton Head, SC
Hilton Head is renowned for its golf courses. For me, the most phenomenal, and truly memorable experience was dinner at the Links at Sea Pines.
Hello again to Beverly Abel & Bruce Peck (B & B) from Sea Trek, and sister-in-law Marie. Thanks to Beverly, we offer a way to distinguish Beaufort SC from Beaufort NC. Spelled the same, but pronounced differently. Starting in the south, say “Bew or Biew – fert” which sounds like view or beautiful. This view is officially preserved.
In the north, remember No Bo, or Bo knows diddley. No is also the abbreviation for north. In the north they say bow (like bow and arrow), or Bo-fert. If you want more explanation, check here 🙂
While in Beaufort, take a long walk. The historic homes are breathtaking. This one is for my AK family, a very blue house – familiar fantastic color.
Historic Beaufort has lots of restaurants to chose from. My favorite was Lost Local – taco extraordinaire, and unexpected Hockney Magic – for Alisha!
Special Tribute to Aunt Dianne Gill. Born in Hollywood, CA. Mother of 7 (two of my cousins, Frank and Kathryn, born in AK), 20 grandkids, and 29 great grandkids. An incredible legacy from an exceptional woman who was 92 years young. Thanks for your unconditional love.
Milestone: Before we go, Congrats to Danielle and Sandra who closed on their first home, in Cleveland, OH. So very happy for them! Thanks Jamie and David, Uncle Scott and Aunt Cindy for making the move go so smoothly.
Next Stop: Steamboat Landing anchorage, roughly 30 miles south of Charleston Harbor.
Special Shout Out. DougAndDanaAndABoat, looking foward to your NPY4906 reveal. Thinking of a classic Audie Murphy (Jim Harvey) movie …