Exhale on the Water

Paducah, Kentucky

The city marina in Paducah is one long wall, making it really easy to dock.

In Paducah we met Jim and Kelly Horan, S/V Jimmy Rigged.  So sad to hear about your sailboat tragedy going into the marina, so thankful you were quickly rescued and your three orange kitties are all okay.

Happy Birthday Bruce

Celebrating 56 (strike, reverse that, Willy Wonka!).  Live Long and Prosper Sea Trek.

Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky

A popular destination for southern folks (Hello, Donna!), there were hundreds of turtles swimming around Green Turtle Bay.  Accustomed to people feeding them, the turtles climb on top of each other – forget about a “dog pile”, the aggressive little turtle piles were insane.

Patti’s 1880’s Settlement – worth the stop! Click here to learn more!

Dry Fork Bay Anchor, Land Between the Lake

Congrats to Forever Friday and HeartBeat – celebrating their FIRST day on the Loop.

Hello Tennessee

Pebble Isle, Tennessee

Don’t ever underestimate the power of one.  One child, one woman, one man, one voice.

From just one small acorn, grows a mighty oak.

Savoring the Sunset

Dense Morning Fog – ARGH! Thanks, Garmin, for the navigational tools. And Thanks, Capt. Rick for keeping out a keen eye.  Well done, babe.

Tennessee

From a small seed to a dense forest. Walnut trees, so beautiful.

Bridge to no where

This reminded me of Sarah Palin – If you are from Alaska, you know why.

Beech Creek Island Anchor

Anchoring out with Sea Trek. Another perfect evening. Thanks for the Little Beers.

Tennessee River Rocks

This is for Susan Merritt, we miss you Gypsy!

Fall Migration

On the waters, “fall migration” is a busy season.  As leaves turn autumn red a virtual “convoy” heads south, filling up the anchorages and marinas along the way. By late November most loopers will be off the mighty rivers, headed to Texas, Florida, the Caribbean, and other warm waters.

So far, Exhale is on track to be in southwest Florida by late December.

Next up:  Aqua Harbor, Mississippi

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 135 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 plus 2 dams
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept]), Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles and St. Louis by car (thanks, B and B)

We left Exhale docked in Alton, Illinois to make another side trip to California. A visit with special friends and family began with Craig and Maureen (former and future Exhale crew members).

Moorpark, CA

Continuously vying for attention, Maddie and Murphy, a 95 lb young English Labrador Retriever, eventually found a balance.

Thanks for the first class treatment, and, for the healthy diet plan. We’ll report back later on our progress.

Los Angeles – A CareGiver Lesson from Mija

Have you ever seen a dog running along the road, at risk of being hit by a car?  What did you do?  Would you watch closely to make sure it stays away from the traffic, until you pass by? Not if you are my daughter, Alisha.  First, pull ahead, jump out and try to catch the dog.  Now, what if you see someone else trying to do the same thing?  Would you let them take over and continue on to your original destiny?  No again.  Work together, position both cars farther ahead and try again, about 5 times, coax the dog towards you with some kind of food (cheese crackers).  Okay, what if that dog has bloody feet?  Engage volunteer car driver #2, and your mom; gently lift the dog into the back of your SUV and transport it to the nearest dog hospital.  But wait, what if the dog hospital says you can’t leave the dog there?  Ask for expert help to find the owner, noting it is wearing a tag.  When they identify the owner and dog, Kopi Tart, but can’t reach the family, you generously offer to pay to bandage up the dog (the hospital did it for free), and agree to transport the dog to its home, only a few blocks away.  If no one answers the door, do you leave the bandaged dog inside the fenced yard?  No, you take it to the nearby shelter, to make sure Kopi Tart is safe until the owners can retrieve the beautiful dog.  Sarah O, I know you are listening; I believe you would have done the same.

Proud Mama, Thanks Mija

I firmly believe the dedication of roughly an hour of time by my daughter, Alisha, saved the life of Kopi Tart; Mija was given the chance to exit the task every step of the way, but she never gave up.  She was determined to make sure Kopi Tart was safe.  That’s how Alisha lives her life, every day; she goes the extra mile, with human kindness.  My baby cannot, and will not, be stopped, undeterred by any obstacle.  And by now, I am confident, Kopi Tart has been reunited with her family.  BTW, Alisha’s last infusion is Sept 24.  Take a permanent hike, Big C!   

Long Beach, and then there were three.

On our last day in CA we had a delicious new age Rosh Hashanah meal with Danielle, Sandra, Leo and Abby. Maddie had a play date with her high energy buddies, Garbanzo and Artichoke.  Are you sure you want a third dog, Sandra?

Welcome to the world, Mason Casella

Congrats to grandparents, Maureen & Craig; mom and dad, Alexis & Patrick; and siblings, Tyler & Reagan.

Little Mason was born on 9-18-18 at exactly 7 lbs.  Good start for the future numbers dude.

Life is Good – Man and his Dog

After another long plane ride, Maddie and Rick were happy to get back to the boat.

Alton, Illinois

The numbers are growing! Forgive me if you are not listed, Loopers at Alton include – Back Row:  Exhale, SeaTrek, Antonia, Second Wave, and Sabbatical. Front Row: Let’s Go, Hayley Rose, Sea Jamm, Island Girl, Unfettered, Misty Pearl, and others (30 loopy loopers).

St. Louis

A shout out to Chelsea and Brad Bishop as we drifted past St. Louis. An early Happy Anniversary.

More Locks

Our final two locks on the Mississippi River were really easy.  This one is for you, Gypsy.  Nothing for the worry journal here :-).

Kimmswick, Missouri

An overnight at the legendary Hoppie’s Barge includes invaluable guidance from river experts Fern and her daughter (Get well soon Fern!).  It’s a MUST stop.

A Wall

This historic wall and gate, facing south, stands strong.

A closer look:  reveals the eastern wall is either gone, or invisible.

Given the enchanted tower, you can decide if there is magic involved at this site,

or, if the gate is tightly locked to keep the Zombies out (they won’t go around…)

Blue Owl – Home of the Levee High Apple Pie

If you ever make it to Kimmswick, Missouri, Blue Owl is infamous for its magnificent desserts.  Get there early, they only serve breakfast and lunch (close at 3). Here’s the website:  go ahead, take a look!

Diet Tomorrow (sorry, Maureen, we will keep trying)

Little Diversion, Missouri

After a 98 nautical mile run (114 statute miles), we stopped at a well known anchorage. Along the way, the banks of the Mississippi River fall colors began to show.

Celebrating the first day of fall.

Raining Cats and Dogs on the Ohio River

That’s right, we made it to the Ohio River!  Since March 1, 2018 we have traveled 3,751 nautical miles (4,321 statute miles).  Total gallons of fuel burned:  2,081.

Once again we are very thankful for our pilot house, with steady rain and wind.  We felt sincerely sorry for Unfettered, who is running from the fly bridge with only partial cover.  HOT drinks will be popular at the end of this day.

Meet Bear, boat dog from Unfettered

Say hello to Bear, Maddie’s newest friend, who we hope is staying dry in the cabin below.

Thanks, For the Dogs

For all of you who have dogs on your boats and in your homes, you know the extra work required to take care of the critters, and, you know the reward of never ending loyalty and affection. While they ask for very little, they never stop giving.

Next up:  Paducah, Kentucky

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 134 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 8 plus 2 dams

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Louis and St. Charles by car (thanks, B and B)

Exploring the waters of Mark Twain

It seemed romantic to follow the routes of Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, but with the river running higher than usual, it was not easy to dodge the mighty trees, swept down river by a strong current.

Visible sections of this tree were more than 50 feet in length, but, like an iceberg, you have no way of knowing what is lurking just below the surface.

The Illinois River

Beverly (Sea Trek), Bonnie (It’s Someday) and I agreed, this structure reminded us of a beloved Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale, Rapunzel.

May flies in September?!?

We celebrated Octoberfest in September, so perhaps we should not have been surprised when the may flies arrived out of season … Bonnie said the flies were wise, resting their weary wings, and hitching a little ride down the river.  The one who had to sweep the little carcasses off the boat wasn’t so altruistic about the invasion.

Grafton, Illinois

We all know Canadian Geese fly south for the winter, but did you ever wonder where the eagles go? Now you know, it’s Grafton, home of the wintering bald eagles.

The river did not disappoint as we spotted numerous bald eagles along the way.

Ciao for now, It’s Someday – we were sorry to break up the happy trio of boats.

Hey, Susan Merritt (Gypsy), when we were in Grafton, we found an amazing display of rocks.

The river was so high in Grafton – How High, you ask?? Well, no one was brave enough to test the bike trail to know for sure.

St. Charles aka Earth City

Thanks, Beverly and Bruce (Sea Trek) for the side trip to St. Charles, although we never found the chocolate covered bacon Beverly was craving, it was a beautiful little city.

Home of Daniel Boone

And the Lewis and Clark Expedition

St. Louis, returning to The Hill

And, we got to visit one of our favorite St. Louis restaurants again.

An early happy anniversary to Brad and Chelsea Bishop, a year ago October we ate at Zia’s the night before their St. Louis wedding. If you are EVER in the area, this restaurant is worth the stop.  Click here for their website. A warm shout out to Brenda and Mark – we love and miss you!

Alton, Illinois

We continued to travel with Sea Trek, docking in Alton for an extended respite.  The marina is lovely, with a refreshing cement pond, and LOTS of Loopers arriving daily.

As you can see, the Mississippi River bridge is spectacular at night.

Whistle Signal Tips

For all you loopers who are finally entering the river, here are the official instructions from Waterway Guide to help you communicate with the tugs/tows:

Next up?  Another Side trip to LA for a little work and a cherished visit with friends and family.  Meanwhile, Exhale is docked in Alton, Illinois, under the watch of Sea Trek – Thanks Bruce and  Beverly! 

This little frog is for Morgan and Brad

Happy New Year

L’shana tova.  May the new year be sweet, and may your lives be filled with health and happiness.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 132 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 6 plus 2 dams

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Surrounded by industrial operations, scrap metal and sewage plants, it was surprising to see lovely green hillsides …

Upon closer inspection, we realized they were massive land fills, with methane venting.

Little Calumet River Marine Services

We spent our first night on the river in a very small marina, surrounded by some of the nicest local boaters, celebrating life.

But the flame across from our dock was from another land fill, a very unsettling experience that may have caused a rough night’s sleep filled with strange dreams.

Joliet City Wall

We reunited with Sea Trek in Joliet, tying up to the City Wall together, along with It’s Someday.

Ottawa – Heritage Harbor

As a storm continued to build, we found refuge at Heritage Harbor in Ottawa.

Henry – Lock Walls

Yet another unique experience, we tied off to the rock walls of a former lock.

Power was found about 5 feet off the ground, in anticipation of flooding.

Electrical expert, Dale Morgan, cringed at this photo!

Loopy Loopers

After securing our boats to the rocks, we gathered at Henry’s Lakeside Tavern.

None of the Looper ladies were willing to contribute to the decor.

Five Looper Boats (10 people) closed the bar at Henry’s after a highly competitive game of pool.

Peoria – Illinois Valley “Ivy” Club

The invasion of loopers grew to more than a dozen boats at Peoria.

Havana – Tall Timbers

One of Rick’s Bucket List items is a visit to Havana.  Something about the romance of a certain spring holiday in 1957, his parents, on a beach, you get the idea. Although we have not made it to Cuba, yet; Havana, Illinois was a little slice of heaven.

Beardstown, Logsdon Tug Service – Rafting to a Barge

It was a unique experience, tying off to a barge for the night.  At Mile 88 we stopped at Logsdon, along with Sea Trek and It’s Someday.  

Although it was a little tricky getting on and off the boat, the guys were delighted to get a private tour of the engine room.  Yep, that’s a Cummins 1700hp – the tug has two of them. It’s just a little bigger than the 355hp in Exhale.

Slang from the tugs and barges

Most of the seasoned tug operators seem to talk with a gruff voice and a unique slang, that can be entertaining:

Meet up on the one whistle – when two crafts encounter one another, each staying in their far right lane of traffic

On the twos – when two crafts stay in the far left lane of traffic (yes, it seems backwards, like going up the down staircase)

This one goes ’bout twice across – a double width barge

Knock the rust off it – getting close enough to a navigational buoy that you could scrape the rusted paint off it.

Com on o’er it – come on over closer

Throw Down the Dam! We had heard the tugs say repeatedly, “gotta wait for the lock cause “they done throw down the dam” ???   The marina said the Peoria lock and dam was closed for maintenance, as the “wickets were down”, but you could continue south on the Rivers by going “over” the dam.  The fear of going over a dam turned into a hearty chuckle for all of us when we learned the “wickets” were gates that had been dropped into the water, making the dam virtually undetectable.

Some of the tug names are very difficult to pronounce.  These two were familiar.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 132 plus 1 dam, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 6 plus 1 dam

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Holland, Michigan

It was great spending time with Jim and Susan Merritt, Meghan, Lexi and little Cooper. We were sad to part ways with Gypsy, she’s under repair – there was a water problem, discovered by Meghan who was looking for her chapstick when she found her shoes floating in the cabin … AND there was something about a good samaritan effort by Susan’s brother who bravely leaped on board a large sailboat that was drifting away from the neighboring dock in Frankfort while its absent minded captain was releasing a line from the shore. Unaware the boat was in gear, Chip fired up the little motor … and smashed into Gypsy, no good deed goes unpunished.

Misty Spider Webs in Holland

We awoke to heavy fog.  The kind where you can barely see more than a few feet.  You don’t realize how many spiders are on the boat until the webs are covered in mist.

Running in the Fog

There was a small window of opportunity to run the boat on smooth waters, but this time it was in dense fog.  While the fog is unsettling, with the right equipment it’s far more tolerable than rough waters.

Smooth Waters On the Lake, Visibility??

Visibility at 9:45 am : Still Zero.

Visibility at 11 am – Maybe a few feet

The fog lifted sometime after noon.  By 1 pm there was a small parade headed to South Haven, including Sea Trek (one of the 3 not shown), Exhale, and  Miss Hattie.

South Haven

Arriving in South Haven, we met Pirates in the Black River.

To celebrate our arrival, we joined the crew of Sea Trek, gold loopers, on their yacht. It’s always a treat to spend time with Bruce and Beverly (B and B).

When you board Sea Trek, the proper Vulcan greeting is “Live Long and Prosper”

Memories of Popeye the Sailor – Wilhelm Baum

Lenore (Miss Hattie) and I enjoyed the flowers in South Haven.

Michigan City, Indiana

The 6-hour run to Michigan City along side Miss Hattie was relatively smooth.  Anticipated inclement weather, the Labor Day weekend, and our new friends motivated us to stay in Michigan City for four nights. It was a delightful respite! While we were there, we said hello to the little Pilgrim.  Penny and Mats, we hope you are having a fabulous time visiting family in Sweden.

Bob told us, you know you are in Michigan City when you see the familiar stacks.

Opened in 1950, the Michigan City Generating Station is a coal and natural gas-fired power plant located on the shore of Lake Michigan in Michigan City, Indiana. It is operated by Northern Indiana Public Service Company, owned by NiSource.

A dear friend from Long Beach, CA once told me, “we have friends for a reason, friends for a season, and friends for life.”  We have now been on the water more than six months.  If you ask either of us what has been the best part of the journey – without hesitation the answer is the friends who have joined us, and, fellow boaters we have met along the way.

A warm thanks to our new life friends, Bob and Lenore Bigsby, Miss Hattie. We truly enjoyed traveling with you from Manistee, MI.  Thanks for introducing us to your boating community on the 800 dock of your home port, what a feast!  We look forward to seeing you in Florida very soon.

Parting with Sorrow, Legendary Leadership

This week we lost two great American heroes: the Queen of Soul, Aretha Louise Franklin (1942-2018), and Senator John Sidney McCain III (1936-2018).  Aretha and John taught us to demand RESPECT and fight for human dignity, without compromise.  Rest in Peace, although you are deeply missed already, your legend will live on. In the words of Meghan McCain, “Today we mourn the passing of American greatness, the real thing.  He was a great fire who burned bright. The America of John McCain is generous and welcoming and bold.  She’s resourceful, confident and secure.  She speaks quietly, because she’s strong.”

Next Up: Illinois River

By the end of today (Monday, September 3) we will waive goodbye to Lake Michigan. In Michigan we stopped in DeTour Village, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Ludington, Pentwater, Grand Haven, Holland (with a side trip to Saugatuck on the Vespa), and South Haven. Our first Indiana stop was in  Michigan City.

Next Guests – Not sure :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Born and raised in Long Beach, CA, Piper has been on the water most of her life.

Frankfort

The quaint little town of Frankfort was full of delightful surprises, well worth the stop!

We reunited with Gypsy for a delicious impromptu barbeque.  The best kind.

Another delightful surprise, a nice small world moment – Hello Carrie!

At the local grocery store, Rick realized he knew the lovely woman in front of him. Carrie Hessler-Radelet and her husband (Rick and Carrie met in California, of course), live in small town Frankfort during the summer.  Carrie’s father and two wonderful Michigan friends joined us on board Exhale for a relaxing glass of wine.

Manistee

The public docks are under renovation, after an aggressive storm surge. The marina building was spectacular, and the staff was delightful.

Crew Change – Introducing Matt & Piper

Matt and Piper Jackson joined us on Exhale in Manistee. By the way, we definitely missed you, Michele.

Piper and Maddie grew up together in California, and are very similar in age (Piper is 10).  Piper swims competitively, sails (solo) better than most men, and is a trained youth lifeguard.

Ludington

Matt, Piper, Capt. Rick and Maddie ran the boat from Manistee to Ludington (roughly 3.5 hours) while I got to drive Matt’s rental car along the country roads of Michigan.  Matt and Piper did a GREAT job without me on board :-)

Ludington is home to S.S. Badger, the last coal-fired passenger steamship in operation in the United States.  If you want to learn more click here. 

It’s also home to Brenda’s Harbor Cafe. Adnerb, is this part of your retirement plan?

Pentwater

Well versed in nautical lingo, from Ludington to Pentwater (roughly 2 hours) Piper adeptly set the lines, handled the fenders, and kept the captain well informed as we were docking.

Pentwater Yacht Club

Piper made herself very comfortable, hanging out at the yacht club.

Piper was the first to spot the familiar Long Beach Yacht Club burgee (Jacksons and grandparents Barry and Kathy May are longtime members).

And it was our first Burgee Exchange (Southwest Florida Yacht Club and PYC).  We miss you, Commodore Ron Austin!

Thanks for visiting, Matt and Piper

It was sad to see Matt and Piper drive away.  We heard she played the ukulele – pretty much nonstop – on their 4-hour drive to Chicago :-).  It turns out Piper is a VERY talented actress and musician, with an uncanny ability to recite LONG excerpts from Hamilton. It was very impressive.  We hope you come back again soon. Next time, bring mom and the grandparents!  

Pentwater to Grandhaven

After closely monitoring the weather for days, it appeared there was a break in the storm. Only after Peter and Rick rode out into the swells in a dinghy to check on the sea conditions, we agreed to leave the dock with Peter and Jeannie on Tortuga, with an expectation that the water could be a little rough, but knowing it would be worse the following day.

Departing Pentwater at 12:30 pm, unusually late for us, once we got away from the shore we had 42 miles of 2-3 foot following seas (think of it as a gentle push).  What a pleasant surprise.  Inspired by our discovery of calm waters, Gypsy and Miss Hattie braved the journey as well.  We arrived in Grand Haven around 7 pm, enough time to enjoy the sunset and a delightful evening cocktail with Lenore and Bob from Miss Hattie.

Grand Haven to Holland – No Photos, Please.

Let’s just get it out there, I wasn’t mad, I was just plain scared.  For me, the run from Grand Haven to Holland was my all-time worst 2 and a half hours on the water this year.  Rick said the waters might be a little rough, but we also knew it was a relatively short trip (only 12 miles). And, based on the previous day, I thought the waters would calm down, more or less. I was wrong. 

When the beam seas (water aggressively slamming you from the side of the boat) kicked in, the boat rocked enough that I put on a life jacket.  My mind was racing with fear, imagining how we might capsize.  When Rick realized the dog was shaking, and saw that tears were rolling down my face, he offered to go back.  Fear is irrational and hard to shake, but I trust Rick, and I knew the best answer was to proceed.  Of course, we all made it safe and sound, albeit a little rattled.

Holland

It was really exciting to visit De Zwaan – Dutch for the swan. The last windmill to leave the Netherlands, it’s still an active grain mill, grinding roughly 12,000 pounds of locally grown corn and wheat every year.  To learn more click here.  The miller is Ms. Alisa Crawford.

We enjoyed walking the grounds of Windmill Island Gardens, Holland MI.

Saugatuck

We left Exhale docked in Holland and took a short vespa ride (~ 8 miles) to reunite with Bruce and Beverly Peck, Sea Trek (they said hi, Craig!)

Vespa Ride

We don’t use the Vespa often enough.  Even in a light rain, what a great way to visit nearby communities, especially when there is no Uber or Lyft nearby!

Happy Birthday Alisha, Happy Anniversary Danielle and Sandra

Next Stops: Southeast Lake Michigan

Following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, we are slowly headed to the Illinois River. So far, in Michigan, we have stopped in DeTour Village, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Ludington, Pentwater, Grand Haven, and Holland (with a side trip to Saugatuck on the Vespa).  Next up: South Haven, or thereabouts.

Next Guests – Not sure :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

The magnificent splendor of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island makes you feel as if you have stepped back, somewhere in time …

Blue Waters of Michigan

You asked – “how blue are the waters, really?”  Well, Susie Q – the waters are sooo blue you can see the marina boulders, more than 15 feet down!

St. Ignace

Mike & Sue Gillespie drove from Cleveland to northern Michigan, joining us in Upper Peninsula (called Yooper). On their first night aboard, the sunset at St. Ignace was breathtaking.

Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox

One of my favorite childhood stories was the tall tale of Paul Bunyan a giant lumberjack with superhuman strength. Big as a mountain and strong as a grizzly bear… his trusty companion was a legendary blue ox. His likeness is displayed in several statues across North America, including this one in Michigan.^[7][8]

There are multiple Paul Bunyan statues in Michigan, for more info click here.

Mackinac Island

You can only get to Mackinac (pronounced Mac-in-aw) by water or air.  When you arrive you feel like you stepped back in time.

Thanks for the private cruise from St. Ignace to Mackinaw aboard Gypsy!

Grand Hotel

If you are looking for a decadent wedding destination: Grand Hotel (click here)

We will never forget the spectacular views from a rocking chair overlooking the Straits of Mackinac, from the world’s longest porch.

Somewhere in Time

Grand Hotel is rich in history, a place where time moves slowly.  The perfect setting for a favorite romantic classic starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour, “Somewhere in Time”. 

Happy Anniversary Mike & Sue – 33 and still counting.

To celebrate – we watched Somewhere in Time (of course you can buy the movie in the gift shop!!).  Actually, Sue and I watched the movie, Rick and Mike went to bed early.

Mackinac Straits Bridge

Petoskey

It was a privilege to spend time with Tom & Nancy Rea (captains of Meanders), who live in Petoskey. Thanks again for introducing us to Charlevoix, where we joined Don & Barb Cavin (Cavara) for dinner, celebrating Barb’s birthday.

Charlevoix

Although mushroom house architecture didn’t really “catch on”, it is a fun vacation concept. If you are looking for a unique rental opportunity, click here. Over the course of his fifty-year career, Architect Earl Young designed twenty-six residential houses and four commercial properties. His works are made mostly of stone, using limestone, fieldstone, and boulders that he found throughout Northern Michigan

Leland

Leland, MI is a quaint little town reknowned for it’s smoked fish.

Next Stops: More of Lake Michigan

Exhale will continue to traverse south, following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, heading to the Illinois River. So far we have stopped in Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix and Leland.  Next up: Frankfort and Manistee. After that, only Mother Nature really knows.

Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

We finished the North Channel this week with our buddy boat, Gypsy.  Still following the itinerary from Robin (Queen’s Cove Marina), together we found a secluded anchorage in the Benjamins.

Anchored in the Benjamins – Crocker Island

Anchoring and Rafting Off

Once we agreed on a gunk hole (anchoring spot) Exhale dropped her anchor. With fenders in place, Gypsy scooted in close, and tied off.

It seems like we are a little close to the rocks, right?!?  But the Captain was confident in water deeper than 10 feet and no wave action.

The Merritts suggested we leave the Mother Ship (Exhale) to “hold our place” at the rocks, and took the Super Shuttle (Gypsy) to tour the Benjamins, anchor out, and eat a little picnic lunch.  What a treat!

Weathered in – or not?

The rain came and went.  Just another free boat wash.

Gore Bay

This sleepy little town is in Lake Huron’s north channel. Quick Facts from Wikipedia: Population 816.  Average age, 56. 

We joined up with Houlegan, again in Gore Bay, home of the Split Rail Brewery. The marine forecast was thunder, lightning, and choppy waters. The captains agreed it was likely we would be in Gore Bay for two or more days, until the weather cleared.

We heard the rain and thunder in the darkest hours of the evening. Awoken to a quiet calm around 6 am, Captain Rick checked the forecast again.  Waves of three to four – inches.  What?!?  Rise and shine everyone, Gypsy and Exhale are going, going, going!

Mother Nature cut us some slack as we enjoyed 9 solid hours of smooth waters. Unsure how long the weather would hold, we skipped Meldrum (the “planned” final stop in Canada), opting to clear US Customs a day early.

Smooth Waters

The water was soooo smooth the Captain and his dog took a little snooze.

What a view!  Perfect weather, perfect water.

Crossing the Invisible Line – did you see that?

For all the football fans out there, we thought you might appreciate a super-imposed 10-yard line, I mean border crossing line, as Gypsy and Exhale said goodbye to Canada and hello to USA.

Exhale was in Canada for sixty days.  The time seemed to pass very quickly. In many ways it reminds me of the summers in Alaska, where you can spend the season in pristine country, with a new adventure everyday, knowing there is sooooo much more to explore. Captain and crew (including short-term swabbies) agreed, the journey was splendiferous – definitely worth repeating.  Au revoir beautiful Canada, until we meet again!

Clearing Customs – Embracing Technology

Thanks to the new Reporting Off-shore Arrival Mobile app, clearing customs was fast, and smooth. Launched in 2018, the ROAM app allows small boaters the flexibility of reporting their arrival into the U.S. from any location! Apple and Android friendly, enter your passport and travel data in the app, submit, and then “video-chat” via your smart phone or iPad with a friendly customs agent.  It was super easy.  To learn more click here. 

De Tour Village, Michigan

We officially re-entered the US with Gypsy at this gorgeous new marina.  For those of you still looping on the water, we strongly recommend this port of entry.  It’s a friendly town, with good local food (hooray for US Beef) within easy walking distance.

You were right, Gonzo, the waters of Michigan are really blue! Now I know why the University of Michigan chant is “Go, Blue!” If you want to learn more about the winning Wolverines, click here.  Go Blue!

 

Next Stop:

Lake Michigan – Grandpa Says, “Go Blue!”

Mike & Sue Gillespie – see you in Mackinac Island.  Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Windswept trees, with branches permanently pointing south, stand as a reminder that weather conditions can be harsh. A stark contrast to the calm, blue waters.

Wright’s Marina

Wright’s Marina took great pride in their landscaping.

Parry Sound Fire

The fires in Ontario covered 11,000 hectares (a metric unit of square measure, equal to 100 ares (2.471 acres or 10,000 square meters).  We planned our route carefully to avoid the fires, omitting stops in the Bustards, among others.

Beaverstone Bay – Collins Inlet

Along with Gypsy, we found a perfect anchorage in Collins inlet, which included another delicious meal prepared by Rick and Jim on the boat.  Yummy Fresh Fish!

Red Sky at Night, Sailors Delight

The rest of the saying goes, “red sky at morning, sailors take warning.”

The distant fires caused a spectacular sunset

Our careful planning was foiled by Mother Nature, again. The winds shifted while we were sleeping, and we awoke to the smell of heavy smoke.  Don’t be fooled by this photo, the boat was NOT surrounded by fog.  Photo by Gypsy

Killarney

Killarney was a popular refuge from the fires, including a rendezvous of boaters from Gross Point Yacht Club, that made Exhale look like a toy boat.

What a magical little place to watch float planes come and go.  We loved the strategically placed red chairs at the end of every finger pier – a great little place to enjoy a nice glass of wine on the dock

Dinner with Friends

Possibly one of the best meals we have eaten on this journey was at the Mountain Lodge in Killarney.  Thanks, Gypsy captains Susan and Jim Merritt, for an amazing evening.

Shelter in a a Storm

While we were out and about, there was yet another flash thunder storm.  It turns out, Maddie is very resourceful when it comes to seeking shelter. She successfully moved her little bed from the side cabin into the hallway – logically the most protected area of the boat!

A fabulous dinghy ride

Exhale spent a second night in Killarney, a three-mile dinghy ride from Covered Portage, where Gypsy was anchored out.

Otters, ooooh so cute …

We watched a pair of happy-go-lucky otters playing in the water nearby, wishing they would get close enough for a clear photo.  An ominous growling noise meant not one, but, two otters were climbing onto our dingy.  When one of them slid onto Gypsy’s swim platform, bearing snarling teeth, my thought was “danger, danger, Will Robinson.”  Well, at least the fat critter brought his own dinner.

Baie Fine (Gaelic translation “a fine bay”) 

Traveling with Gyspy, we anchored out at Baie Fine, then hiked back to Topaz Lake. Thanks for pushing us Jim and Susan, it was well worth the climb.

Rick finally tried out the homemade bobber action, to neatly mark the location of our anchor.

Anchoring Challenges

Anchoring in Florida is predictable – sand and more sand.  In Canada, sometimes it’s mud, sometimes it’s rocks, and sometimes, well, it’s something else.  As we pulled up the anchor, look what came with it!

Little Current

Our visit to the marina at Little Current coincided with the annual Haw-eater Festival, highlights included antique cars (this GTO is for my Bear-Bear) and a parade that lasted roughly 12 minutes, well, maybe slightly longer.  My favorite was the excuse to sample yet another delicious craft beer. Loved this Split Rail Hawberry Ale (yep, another red).

Hello, again, Hawaiian Shirts

Reunited with Houlegan, again, we watched the fireworks on Civics Day.

Found: One Elusive Unicorn.  This is for Rick.

ANOTHER MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: Thanks to those of you who reached out this week (especially Craig). You are right, the blog postings have been rather irregular.  As we journeyed the north channel of Georgian Bay we were completely out of range, for multiple days. Ah, yes, it is good to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Finishing up the North Channel, Clearing Customs, then on to Michigan – Go Blue!

See you real soon, Mike & Susie :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

With the repairs all finished, and fresh provisions, “it’s good to be back on the boat”, said Maddie.

Thank you, one and all, at Queen’s Cove Marina in Victoria Harbour, Ontario for the exceptional service.  We were very excited to see Exhale gently lowered back into the water! Without a doubt, Robin and her team are beyond compare. Thanks, Robin, for the amazing lesson on the navigational routes along the Georgian Bay. We now have an exciting route mapped out for the northern channel – subject to weather, of course.

Penetanguishene with Houlegan, again.

It was a pleasure to begin our Georgian Bay travels with our good friends, Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, Houlegan, again.  Our first stop is known locally as “P’tang” (cuz Penetanguishene is waaay too hard to say). Caught in very heavy rains, we found refuge at the historic Discovery Harbour.  Fun times!

Discovery Harbour

When it rains, find a museum, or a pub, or both.  We opted for Discovery Harbour.  We got drenched by the rain, but it was in the midst of good company.

Discovery Harbour traces its roots back to the original British naval and military base in Penetanguishene, built to safeguard access to Upper Canada after the War of 1812. To learn more click here.

While Houlegan, again is on a brief solo expedition via the southern route of Georgian Bay (those guys are rebels, you know), we moved on to the northern route.

Henry’s Fish Camp

A popular spot in Georgian Bay, we found over a dozen looper boats at Henry’s.

At Henry’s Fish Camp we docked again with Gypsy. Fellow loopers Miss Norma, Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away joined us for picnic table ‘tails.

Parry Sound

The Georgian Bay is absolutely spectacular!  Bucket List Item in Progress.

In Parry Sound we docked with Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away.

Canada Model A’s on Tour

What a treat to see twenty-six Model A’s parked at our dock!

Anchored out in Tiny

Traveling with Gypsy, we anchored out in Hopewell Bay (did we mention, Jim Merritt took a very brief break in Queen’s Cove for a root canal – oooowwww)

Small Craft Advisory

When the weather gets rough – stop, stop, stop.  Thanks to Captain Rick and Jim, they did not hesitate to find a safe little cove for us to take refuge when the water got really choppy.  With a little help from the Nebo app, we found more loopers in the cove (hello again Viridian and Dash Away).  A spontaneous dinner aboard Gypsy was an unexpected bonus.

Hang Dog – Alexander Bay

Another “first experience”. In a small protected cove, Exhale dropped her anchor, then Gypsy rafted off (tied herself to Exhale). The stern of the boat was snuggly secured to a tree about 150 feet away.  With zero risk of swinging towards the rocks, we all enjoyed a VERY peaceful evening!

Signs along the way – “Safe Passage”, or, “Rum found here”

Brilliant advertising for the local pub at the next port? You decide.

A MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: We are sorry the blog postings have been rather irregular.  Unfortunately, (or perhaps we mean fortunately), cellular service and wi-fi connections continue to be hit or miss on this great boat trip. Although a tremendous inconvenience and source of frustration when we need to meet a deadline for WORK, most of the time we are just forced to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Enjoying Georgian Bay, with no pre-scheduled stops.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Tyler’s favorite book is “Go Dog, Go!“, written and illustrated by P.D. Eastman.  One thing for sure, the author fully tapped into the energy of a two-year old – like the dog in the 1961 classic child’s story, Tyler likes to go, go, go!

What do you love to eat when you are two? Pasta, hashbrowns and peanut butter – especially if you can double fist it!

Graham grackers taste better one nibble at a time.  Equality is key – all four corners are gone!

Lions and Basketballs!

Do you want some milk with your coffee, Papa?

 

This fashion statement is beyond comment …  thanks for the hat, Uncle Scott.

Thanks Aunt Cindy and Uncle Scott for a fun day swimming, and for letting Maddie stay at your house!

It was also great seeing Mike and Sue Gillespie for a relaxing day at their pool, with Scott and Cindy.  Thanks for the pizza and libations. Looking forward to seeing you guys on the water!

Jamie and David‘s return flight to Cleveland was cancelled, delaying their return by roughly 24 hours. Meanwhile Nona and Grandpa Dan got another chance to play with Tyler! Thanks again, Dan & Rita (Tyler’s other grandparents) for spoiling us.  Without a doubt, the VERY BEST bagels on the planet are made by D & R Bagels, click here for their website.

Cleveland to Queen’s Cove, Ontario Canada ~ 350 miles

Before driving back to Canada, WWRD?? Stock up with groceries from Costco. After 8 full days in Cleveland, Maddie was one exhausted dog.

Repairs in Progress – Reunited with Friends

While we were in Cleveland, Trevor helped expedite the imported parts from China (Thanks so much, Trevor!), the prop was re-shaped, the custom nuts arrived, and now we are crossing our fingers the repairs will be completed by the Marina on Monday (tomorrow) so we can get back on the water …

Meanwhile we are thrilled to be reunited with our friends Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, Houlegan Again.

Cheers everyone, the Georgian Bay awaits.

 

A Damaged Prop

Perhaps you already heard the Captain successfully “reshaped” the prop back in Merrickville. Details remain a little foggy, something about an early morning departure, a navigational beacon, and a bed of rocks that was not at all like the sand in Florida, you get the idea.

You might be asking, to solve the problem, WWRD? Rick’s Answer: “if you travel slow”,  just how slow can this slow boat go ?? – “you won’t feel much vibration”. Meanwhile, Maureen and I cleaned the boat, again, to make sure nothing could wobble its way to the floors. The Plan: find a qualified mechanic to fix the boat, hopefully in Queens Cove.

Normally, one does not look forward to being elevated out of the water, with one very special exception – the Big Chute!

Lock 44 – The Big Chute Marine Railway

Under the masterful direction of the Parcs Canada lockmasters, up to 100 tons of watercraft, in various sizes and shapes, float onto an 80-foot wooden cradle.  Captain Rick says Exhale weighs 25 tons, more or less.

Once the flotilla is stabilized and secured, the passenger laden vessels are lifted out of the water and gradually elevated roughly 60 feet.

Via cables and dual railroad tracks, the railcar traverses dry land, then gently drops its cargo into the lake waters below.

To learn about the Big Chute, click here.

Hello Gypsy

We first saw Gypsy at Osprey Marina, early in March.

It was such a pleasure to reconnect with Jim and Susan Merritt, captains of Gypsy.  They seem to be testing capacity as it appears 8 or 10 guests joined them for the day long adventure on the Marine Railway. Thanks guys for the great photos from the Big Chute!

Good Bye Trent Severn Waterway

We waived goodbye to the TSWaterway as we completed Lock 45. To see the official Parks Canada photos of each lock (1 through 45), click here.

Port Severn, is the smallest lock on the waterway.

Lift: 3.7m Width: 7.0m Length: 25.6m

Hello Georgian Bay

While it was quite the adventure to complete all the locks in the Trent Severn, we were excited to see the majestic Georgian Bay.

First stop – Queens Cove Marina in Victoria Harbor.  The boat was lifted out of the water, again, this time to assess the extent of the prop damage.

So far, it appears the prop just needs to be reshaped by the local “black smith” equivalent. Crossing our fingers that is true.  

Murphy’s Law – we ordered another prop to be delivered soon, so there will be a spare part in stock, hopefully never to be used. BTW – the prop weighs about 400 lbs; it required a massive wrench, heat, and a cutting torch to be removed. Unfortunately, replacement bolts meant a special order from China … meanwhile, we are hanging out in Cleveland.

With the boat out of the water we embarked on a pre-scheduled side trip, traversing back to the USA, via New York’s Peace Bridge, destined to Cleveland, Ohio.

Yet Another Side Trip

A belated Happy Anniversary, Jamie and David, and a special Happy Birthday, Jamie.  It is a privilege to hangout with our grandson, Tyler, while you take a little break to a resort in Mexico.

Thanks Aunt Cindy and Uncle Scott for letting Maddie hang out with you in Cleveland, a welcome respite from the Energizer Bunny two year-old.

Next Stop:

Georgian Bay, with no pre-scheduled stops, for the very first time on our journey!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [April and July], Craig [April])

 

The Trent-Severn Waterway spans a distance of 240 miles, with 45 locks along the way.  Beginning in Trenton, Ontario (Lock 1), the waterway leads to Port Severn, the entrance to Georgian Bay. If you want to learn more about the canal, click here.

Let’s just say, it’s a lot easier to do those locks with Craig and Maureen onboard.

Reminiscent of one of my favorite childhood books, “A Tree Grows in Brooklyn“, this hearty little tree is made of stern stuff.

Trent – Celebrating Canada Day

We celebrated Canada Day (July 1) with Caryl, Ray (Houlegan again), Maureen & Craig.

Campbellford – the Red & White celebration continues

Yep, those refreshing drinks are red and white.  Do you know the secret ingredients?Thanks for taking this welcome photo, Maureen, you are right, the icons include martinis!

Signs along the way

It’s always fun to notice the customized signs along the way.

Peterborough – Wednesday Concert – The Trews

Summer concerts at the Peterborough Marina – on Wednesdays and Saturday – are free, attracting thousands of folks.  Upfront seats to a Canadian favorite, The Trews, the music was exceptional!  Check it out for yourself here.

Peterborough Lift Lock – 65 ft above the Trent Canal

Breath taking views.  Engineering at it’s finest.  Powered by gravity, the highest hydraulic lift lock in the world lifts two counter-balanced bathtub like chambers.

Buckhorn – Infamous, World Renowned

Words cannot adequately describe our adventures in Buckhorn.  Craig and Maureen were there.  That’s all you need to know. The night included campfire songs from Key Largo musicians, the Sunshine Band.

Ken and Carol Schryver, fellow Loopers from the Voyageur.

Fenelon Falls – Best Men

Somewhere, somehow, Exhale snagged a line. Retired Canadian firefighter, Rick (such a great name), from Knots Buoy, dove under the boat – reporting back a sturdy line was wrapped around the prop, about 8 times. When diver Rick couldn’t cut the line free, Captain Rick hailed a boat across the channel; successfully coaxing one of the able bodied young men to give us a hand. We later learned there were roughly twenty of them, headed to a Bachelor’s Party.

Mark, the “Best Man” from the Bachelor Party, dove, no less than 20 times, slowly cutting away the stubborn tangled line!  His reward, a Carbon by Design t-shirt (thanks, Dominick!), a random Florida hat that fellow boater Tania found, and ice cold beer!

Lock and Roll! BobCaygeon

When we reached the top of the lock, Craig and Maureen hopped out.  The lock attendants were amused as they realized our crew was jumping ship, it helped they brought minimal luggage … thanks for the memories guys – celebrating another fun filled Miami Vice holiday!

Next Stop:

STILL Navigating the Trent-Severn Waterway.  Coming Soon: side to visit Tyler!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

Canada Day is July 1.  Today we are in celebrating with Craig and Maureen in Trent, reunited with fellow Loopers HMS Vagabond, and Houlegan again. Surrounded  by Red and White, tonight there will be fireworks!

Fish on! Rick & Craig

Life is good when you are fishing! And there is nothing like a good old fashioned competition – especially when it’s the smallest fish that wins!

Changing Signs – when it is critical that you stay between the navigational beacons, we appreciated the reminder that the colors had changed, in other words it was NOT red right returning.

Rideau Canal

We continue to travel with Ray & Caryl, Houlegan Again, awesome boating buddies!

When Exhale finished the Rideau Canal we had completed 79 locks (Fort Myers, Florida through Kingston, Ontario).

Some of the locks reminded us of filling-up and draining a really really big  bathtub!

Smiths Falls – the walls of Smiths Falls were truly daunting!  

These bugs tried to hitch a ride, without permission, of course. They ended their journey in a unique, tidy pattern …

Pictures taken at sunrise by Rick, the happy early riser.

Next Stop:

Navigating the Trent-Severn Waterway with our most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen still on board! And, YES, Craig has been cooking us some splendid meals.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

 

Is it Ottawa or Awatto?

A palindrome reads the same way backwards or forwards (such as kayak, mom and pop); a reverse gram or a mirror word is the formation of a new word when you flip the order of the letters, like lap and pal. Although Awatto has a FaceBook page, it’s probably not a valid “word”.

Lock 13

Many of the canals in Canada allow a few transient boaters (usually about four, depending on size) to tie up on the wall near the locks.  Surrounded by a pristine view, Lock 13 was a restful haven.

Ottawa – Museum of Fine Art

The Spider Art at the entry of the Museum was daunting, now I know why Rick has a healthy fear of spiders, and he insists on bringing in the shoes every night!

 

It was a treat to see one of my favorite pieces from Van Gogh inside the Museum!

Chateau Montebello – celebrating Father’s Day

Thank you to Ray and Caryl for encouraging us to enjoy the Father’s Day brunch at the Fairmont Chateau Montebello.  In Rick’s opinion, the meal was ranked in the Top 3 brunches of all time, over the course of six decades (yep, he’s that old).

For all of you dad’s out there – hope you had a wonderful Father’s Day!

Canadian Museum of History

We highly recommend the Inuit Art Gallery – reportedly the largest totem pole collection in the world.

Rideau Canal

Ottawa marks the beginning of the Rideau Canal, a 125-mile canal system connecting natural lakes and rivers, in a combination of dams and locks, to Kingston. Completed in 1832, there are a total of 45 locks at 23 stations located along the canal, beginning with a stair step of 8 locks  to learn more click here.

In winter, a section of the Rideau Canal passing through central Ottawa becomes officially the world’s largest skating rink

Changing of the Guard and Parliament

At the top of the hour we heard the traditional bagpipes during the changing of the guard at the Memorial Park.

Hello Craig & Maureen!

Craig and Maureen joined us at Hurst Marina in Manotick (Ottawa), Ontario. Together we traveled to Merrickville, where Craig handled the locks like a pro, while Mo took over cookie duties (dock trash).

Thanks, Parc Canada – we are truly enjoying the journey in your canals.

Thanks Houlegan again for navigating, and traveling with us, you are the very best buddy boat!!  MOST OF ALL thanks for hanging out with MS in Ottawa while Rick made another side trip to LA.

Dogs of all Sizes love Ray!

Canadian Geese

We reported earlier about Coyote lawn art – these Canadian geese were not fooled.

Next Stop:

Heading towards Kingston along the Rideau Canal with our most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen! And, YES, they brought lots of fresh coffee beans.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontaria.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [April and May], Rick [May and June] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, & MS [April])

 

The water was smooth as glass at daybreak (4:30 am).  We traveled from Saurel to Montreal with Houlegan again and Vagabond, leaving well before breakfast, again.

Friday Sand Bar

Perfect blue skies attracted countless small boats that were intentionally beached on a shoal; think of it as a local sand “bar.”

 

Montreal, the City of Mary (really!!)

Alongside Houlegan and Vagabond, we docked at the Old Port of Montreal, surrounded by a plethora of historic buildings dating back to the early 1400s.

Originally called Ville-Marie, or “City of Mary”, Montreal is named after Mount Royal, the triple-peaked hill in the heart of the city.  Archaeological evidence demonstrates that First Nations native people occupied the island of Montreal as early as 4,000 years ago.  To learn more, click here.

Playground – SOS Labyrinthe

More than just a zip line, next to the port was a popular entertainment venue that offers numerous ways to walk a tight rope.  No, thanks.

Historic Montreal

It was a spectacular weather day in Montreal, prompting us to walk over 15,000 steps :-)

Notre-Dame Basilica – La Basilique Notre-Dame

Saint Joseph’s Oratory

Gay Village Montreal

Hydro Dam, floating dock locks

Although this lock resembled a guillotine, there was a floating dock inside, perhaps making it the easiest lock we had experienced so far!

Quebec Scenery

The scenery in Quebec is pristine, at the least.

Canadian Rules – Rafting Off – Size Matters

To maximize the number of boats that lock through the Canadian commercial locks, larger boats tie off to the walls, and smaller boats raft off. Houlegan again was a pro!

Canada Transit – Cars, Boats & Trains

Transit in Canada is extremely efficient.  Notice two train tracks immediately above Vagabond in the locks!

Currents against, and in our favor – setting two speed records.  

When the current is pushing against the boat, at 2800 rpms her top speed was 1.76 knots – Yes, Trevor, that’s about 0.1 mpg.  After a u-turn the current was in our favor causing us to break a new speed record, running 15.3 knots at only 1200 rpms. WhooHoo!

Doggie Salon 

Maddie’s hair was getting a little wild and crazy until she spent the afternoon at the Spa Doggie Style in Gay Village, Montreal where a lovable French groomer successfully transformed her back to a little princess.

Next Stop:

Heading to Ottawa to pick up Exhales’ most experienced crew members, Craig and Maureen! And, YES, they are bringing fresh coffee beans.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)

 

The northern end of the Hudson River is bordered by Vermont and New York. At Fort Henry, Dave Floyd noticed a hilltop cannon on the Vermont side – strategically pointing across the river …

Port Henry, New York was one of the cleanest marinas we have ever experienced.  The manager, Dave, even gave our Dave, #8, a ride to the train station so he could join up with a dear friend in New York, to enjoy the Big Apple for a few days before returning to Fort Myers.  Thanks again, #8 for spoiling us with your great cooking, again!!

Otter Creek

We took a breathtaking side trip along the windy and picturesque Otter Creek  – 7 nautical miles to Vergennes, VT.  The creek was bustling with life.

Purple martins on the hillside, surrounded by bird feeders.

These guys were getting ready to do some serious bbq action

Vergennes, VT

Docking at the City Wall meant 50w power, water and a short walk to the village, all for a small donation.  We will be back!!

 

 

Maddie was very happy to find a field of soft green grass

Otter Creek Falls – from Shipyard to Hydro Dam

Vergennes was settled in 1766; incorporated in 1788, it is the oldest city in Vermont. During the War of 1812, nine military boats were built in the Vergennes Shipyard, vital to the American victory over the British Royal Navy.   The fleet included the 26-gun Saratoga and the 17-gun schooner Ticonderoga. After the War, from 1815 until 1916, Lake Champlain Steamboat Company offered both passenger and freight service from Vergennes. Now the falls are the source of hydro power for the county.

Historic Vergennes

Vergennes was worth the detour; friendly folk, family owned boutiques, and great restaurants within easy walking distance.

Lake Champlain

Delighted to see deeper waters, we marveled at the blue sky over Lake Champlain.

Deep waters measured over 410 feet!

 

Ohhhh Canada!  

When approaching the Canadian border by water mariners fly a yellow quarantine flag, signaling you have not yet cleared customs.  Once processed by the authorities, you are allowed to lower the yellow and raise the cherished maple leaf!

 

 

Clearing Customs in Canada with Vagabond.

 

Champlain Locks – over the course of two days we traversed 13 locks with our travel buddies, HMS/Vagabond and Houlegan again.  

 

 

Sometimes it was a tight squeeze, as you can see there was no room to spare between Vagabond and this Canadian boat.

 

 

Marina Saurel

We found a retreat at Marina Saurel. Here’s a link to the marina – in French, or English  Not speaking French is a handicap for us, but the Canadians are sooo friendly, and surprisingly forgiving if you just try, a little, and, they love it when we leave cookies and Vagabond leaves a bag full of candy at the locks!  It turns out, Rick’s high school French was very helpful. So glad you were surrounded by French at a young age, Looper buddy, Ray!

 

Special thanks to the staff, we appreciate both your humor and your kindness.

Here’s a special photo for Scrapman Mike

Next Stop:

Heading to Montreal, with a few locks in between.  Merci!

Where Have We Been So Far?

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)

 

 

We arrived at a fork in the road.  For months we had agonized over the better route, “Erie or Champlain?” The challenge: several fixed bridges on the Champlain route (bucket list preference) restrict access, causing most loopers to opt for the Erie Canal route (Plan B).

In 2017, the Erie canal celebrated its 200th birthday! Originally 4 feet deep and 40 feet wide, it successfully floated boats carrying up to 30 tons of freight.

 

 

 

If you want to learn more about the Erie Canal, click here.

The original canal runs along side the enhanced canal which is now 70 feet wide and 7 feet deep.  Now it can handle boats carrying up to 240 tons of cargo.

The “air draft” (height) is measured two ways – first with all the electronics in place (Exhale is 19’3″),  second with everything you can possibly remove lowered from the hard top –  radar, radio antennae, wifi, you get the idea. The measurement changes slightly when the water and fuel tanks are full as well as when there are people and provisions on board – don’t worry Maddie, you and your food won’t make much difference, Donna’s luggage on the other hand might have …. Our air draft was 17’2″ after we took everything off the hardtop. 

Many of our boating friends were avoiding the Champlain route, frightened off by a 17′ fixed railroad bridge near Whitehall.  During the AGLCA rendezvous we heard the water levels were low, making that bridge height more like 17’4″. If it did not rain heavily we just might make it. Not a lot of room for error.

Plan B was to take the Erie Canal. We docked on the wall at Waterford, gateway to either route, planning to measure the boat, again, to consider our options.

WWRD? So glad you asked, Rick successfully connected with the NY Canal Section Superintendent, Timothy McInerney. He’s the guy who gives direction to “raise and lower the water pools” :-) We were shocked when Tim arrived at our boat in Waterford, and elated when he said, “Go for it!” We would reach the lowest bridge by mid-day tomorrow, worst case we could turn back.  We were even more impressed when he not only was at the first lock of the day, but he drove ahead to all of the low bridges, to monitor, and cheer, the nail biting journey!    Traveling with loopers HMS/Vagabond and Houlegan Again, we took off early in the morning.

The first low bridge

Our trusty crew member, Dave Floyd, aka Almost #8, is 6’2″.  He volunteered to monitor the hardtop. We nervously drifted under the bridge, down below Capt Rick was prepared to throw it in reverse if there was any danger of getting stuck.

Railroad Bridge #2

Houlegan (We call them hooligans and shenanigans) decided to measure as well.

It was smooth sailing under the second low bridge, again, nearly two feet to spare!

 

In between bridges we went through a total of 12 locks in the Champlain Canal.  Our Guardian Angel, Pilgrim HMS/Vagabond, stayed close all day.

In Fort Edwards we were surprised to discover the flood control gate was not fully raised to it’s normal height of around 25′.  We think it was closer to 18′, and it looked like a deadly guillotine.  Yet another nerve racking moment.

Along the Champlain Canal we noticed a growing trend of lawn sculptures – apparently to detour pesky geese and other critters.

We were happy to see Canal 8, brought to you by #8.  Yes, Mo, the little paper bag on the shore is special dock trash.  This one contained a mini bottle of Titos and a granola bar – breakfast of champions.

Testing the Air Draft

There she was, the infamous 17′ Railroad Bridge.  With Houlegan Again and Vagabond slightly ahead of us, we took it really slow.  They told us later they were all going to jump on our boat, for extra weight, if we got stuck.  Photos from both boats show how close it really was –  we made it!!

Thanks, Tim – for lowering the water pools – and for escorting us all morning, you are one in a million!

Electronics Reinstalled

Thanks to the handy work of Rick and Dave, we were back in business.

Champlain Bridge – what a welcome sight.  Now that’s a comfortable clearance!

Blue Skies Ahead

Next Stop:

Heading towards Burlington, VT.

Where Have We Been So Far?

States traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, New Jersey, New York, Vermont (9).

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS, 2 times; Rick & Maddie, once), Cleveland (RMG, Craig, Maddie, and MS)