Exhale on the Water

When we left Baltimore, it was no longer raining :-)

Chesapeake City – Schaefer’s Marina

We recommend a stop in Chesapeake City.  Memorial Day weekend was spectacular! Thanks, Donna, for bringing some great weather.

Docking at Schaefer’s Marina, just northeast of the Chesapeake City fixed bridge, equates to front row seating for the live band. Notice Exhale is docked next to our table.

Cape May, New Jersey

New Jersey marks our seventh state. We noted the waters were significantly cleaner (considerably less floating logs and debris) as we traveled north along the Atlantic Ocean, loopers say that’s “running on the outside”,  rather than in the protected Intracoastal Waterway (ICW), or “inside.”

As the seas began to get choppy, we saw more fishing boats; those commercial fishermen are hearty stock  (this one is for you, Sam).

Cape May was lovely, worth visiting again.  Although we didn’t take many photos there, we got in MORE than 10,000 steps that day (that’s for you, Rodger).

Atlantic City

We endured rough seas, from Cape May to Atlantic City, turning the girls (including Maddie) green for hours. Surrounded by casinos, we were overwhelmed by the holiday weekend crowd.  It turns out, they were giving away a truck!

We heard the odds of winning the GMC truck were 3,000 to one, never mind that you had to play the slots to qualify, then you must be “present to win.”

Happy Memorial Day

Thank you to those men and women who served our country.  Most of all to our beloved World War II vets, Larry Straley and John Gill, Sr.

Looper Parade

We got up before breakfast, and pulled away from the dock before sunrise. Lead by Phantom, the looper parade began at 5:05 am.

Exhale was the second looper in the procession, followed by HMS Vagabond, Meanders, and Island Girl. Late riser, New Freedom, joined us once the fog lifted.

A warm shout out to Scott and Beth who are preparing for a LONG hike!  Hope you join us soon on the water.

Next Stop:

The looper parade is headed to New York Harbor, hoping to anchor behind the Statue of Liberty; the weather gods will definitely decide. See you very soon 7 &8!

Traveling with Looper buddies June, Tim, and Maggie on Subject to Change, we docked in Baltimore, at the Anchorage Marina, for a week.

Anchorage Marina – Baltimore Professor Trash Wheel

Whether you are an environmentalist, a science nerd, or just a kid at heart, the Baltimore Professor Trash Wheel is designed to make you smile (right, Sarah O!).

We all agreed it was refreshing to see a colorful, educational approach to improve water quality in the harbor. The community project was placed in service in 2014, thanks to donations from the Pedersen Family and the Abell Foundation.    To Learn More Click Here.

Baltimore Ale Houses & Italian Food

The marina was easy walking distance to an overwhelming number of options for good food and drink.

The four of us chose La Scala, in Little Italy.  (Maggie and Maddie were on duty, guarding the boats). Meet Willie, our amazing waiter.  We spared you pics of the food, it was insanely delicious!  If you are in the neighborhood it’s a MUST – here’s a link to the restaurant menu. Molto Bene!

Pierogi Festival with Tim & June

On Saturday, we found solace from another day of rain at the Holy Rosary Church in Baltimore. Built in 1927,  to learn more about the historic Polish church, click here.

The Pimms Royale drinks were a double tribute to the running of the Preakness and the royal wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan.  The delicious pierogi’s were hand made; to me they tasted like my beloved polish Aunt Mancy used to make, when I was just a wee child.  Sweet memories.

Side trip to LA

We left Exhale safely docked in Baltimore to make a side trip to LA.

This little hummingbird nest is at Craig & Mo’s.  Hey Murphy – thanks for not actually eating Maddie.

It was a treat to spend quality time with Alisha, Erik, and “Klaar’in”;  and, Maddie finally met Alisha’s cute little frenchy Josephine (or Josey).  Te Amo Mija – you look mahvelous!

It was also a great chance for Rick to create a project, with the help of Leo & Abby.  By the way, you guys did a great job on the baseboards for the “visitors”.

Donna on board

Back in Baltimore we were joined by Donna, sometimes referred to as Rick’s “other wife” but really she is my sweet boating buddy.

So glad to have you on board, Donna!

Happy Birthday, Zach 5/25/1981

Big Hugs for AZS, love you very much.

Next Stop:

Chesapeake City, then Cape May.  Aiming to be in New York on the 30th, the weather gods will decide. See you soon 7 &8!

Meanders is a very special 49′ North Pacific.  Trevor introduced us to her captains, Marty and Anders (think “Me” & “Anders”) Liljequist (yes, he is a Swede) in Connecticut, in 2015.  Let’s be brutally honest – we had been searching for the perfect boat for years, never finding the right fit.  Without a doubt, from the moment we walked on board, we knew we wanted a 49′ North Pacific.  Roughly one year later, Exhale was launched.  Now Marty and Andy are based in Stuart, Florida (east coast); and we have become close friends.   So close that they were our shelter from Hurricane Irma, but that’s another story.

In May 2017, Tom & Nancy Rea, 44′ DeFever owners (land based in Petoskey, Michigan), purchased Meanders.  Imagine our pure childish delight when the sister ship docked next to us in St. Michaels, Maryland!

Bucket List Item Checked – Crab Fest!

It’s a great day when Rick gets to check off something special from his Bucket List!

Ice cold draft beer; Check.  A long table, covered in newspapers, filled with friends; Check.  All the fresh crab you can eat, seasoned in Old Bay; Check.

 St. Michaels, Maryland

That’s right, it’s spelled without an apostrophe, again.  Not sure why.  St. Michaels was beautiful.  Walkable.  Repeat-able. We walked more than a mile each day, Rodger. :-)

Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum

We spent half a day walking around the mariner’s museum, and barely scratched the surface.  Now we understand why everyone receives a 2-day pass!

The original hull of the nine-log bugeye, Edna E. Lockwood, seen here, was carefully removed.  To properly restore the historic boat, the replacement hull is being made from the same type of wood as the original, built in 1889.   To learn more about the restoration click here. 

Dog Heaven in Maryland

These boat dogs have an amazing life touring the Great Loop, Maggie (a lab-ra-doodle aboard Subject to Change) and Maddie were welcomed into numerous bars in Maryland, offered drinks, dog treats, and a special menu! Customer/Critter service was superb.

Hooper Strait Lighthouse Restoration

Built in 1879, this screwpile lighthouse was stationed in Chesapeake Bay until 1966.  Opened to the public in 1967, the lighthouse includes an exterior “privy” (notice the slender, closet-like outdoor space) that drained into open water. No pump out required.  To learn more about the Hooper Strait Lighthouse click here

MORE Lighthouses

We never get tired of the lighthouses.

Mooring Ball Lessons in Annapolis

Running with Subject to Change from St. Michaels to Annapolis, we stayed in a mooring field, adjacent to the city harbor.

Better than Yoga, we watched June adeptly perform her acrobatic moves as she retrieved that ball.  It appears the DeFever stripper poll (a standard amenity) has paid off again!

Bay Bridge – Heading to Baltimore

A foggy day on the Bay, with limited visibility, as we headed to Baltimore.

Yes, it was raining heavily OUTSIDE of the pilot house.  Loving those wipers.

A magnificent view that can ONLY be experienced from the water, as we passed under the Chesapeake Bay Bridge.

Next Stop:

Baltimore.  The boat will be docked for a few days at the Anchorage Marina with Subject to Change.  Next week we take a side trip to Los Angeles – see you soon, Danielle, Sandra and Mija!

 

 

 

 

Happy Mother’s Day

Flight training begins on ground, demonstrated by these adorable baby Canadian geese, practicing v-formations.

Just Breathe

We anchored out with Reality [check] in St. Marys, Crisfield, and Solomons Island, Maryland for a total of 6 days “on the hook.”  It was more than serene!

When you anchor out, it is imperative to have a reliable dinghy to get ashore – especially when you have a dog that needs to “stretch her little legs”. When your dinghy chokes frequently, it’s rather nerve racking.  The engine seemed to cut out at all speeds, indicating the fuel was not flowing properly. Rodger and Rick spent several hours trouble shooting, cleaning, and replacing parts to enhance the fuel intake.  For good measure, we officially named the little dink Inhale, hoping she would just breathe!

Crisfield

In early May there were only two restaurant options in Crisfield, the first one is not worth mentioning, the second was Cafe Milano, which had some pretty yummy pizza, including a Veggie mix that made Rodger smile.   Best of all they delivered the pizza to the marina!  We did tour the small local museum, where we learned …

how to tell the difference between male and female crabs.  Let’s just say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

For the curious, here’s a few Crab Basics from Baltimore Magazine.

Traveling on the Chesapeake

We continued to travel with Reality, enjoying the calm waters.

Crab season in most places runs from April through October. Unfortunately, the location of the pots seems unpredictable.  With no warning, you can suddenly find a minefield of little bobbers that are difficult to navigate around.  If you wrap one around your prop, it’s a really bad day.

Solomons Island

Thanks to Reality, we connected with more loopers in progress at Solomons Island (Tim and June Sneider, Subject to Change; Barb and Don Cavin, Cavara; both 49′ Defevers).  Exceptional company!  There’s something special about those Defever folks, for sure.  Loving the looper life!

Named after Isaac Solomon’s Oyster Packing Facility,  Solomons Island was delightfully walkable.  Historic homes and lovely views abound.

We shlepped Rodger and Lorrie around Solomons Island (maybe it was the other way around).

On Saturday night we took the newly named “Inhale” across the river to a delicious meal – and it seemed to be breathing just fine. Our little watch dog, also known as Kudro, was left to guard the boat.

Happy Mother’s Day to all the moms out there.

Next Location:

We said goodbye, for now, to Reality [check] in Solomons Island, they are waiting for a part to repair the heat exchanger (it’s a B.O.A.T).  Looking forward to seeing them again in Baltimore (we also need to retrieve the treats we left behind for Maddie)!!

Next Location – St. Michaels, Maryland.  Maybe.

Anchoring out takes skill, practice, and patience. If done right, the reward is a quiet, peaceful, adventure.

In the US, waterways are public.  That means you can anchor almost anywhere, outside of a designated boating channel (which would be dangerous and plain stupid, by the way), for free.   Rodger, Dodger, it’s free.

St. Mary’s, Maryland

Exhale anchored out with Reality at St. Mary’s College of Maryland; a peaceful little cove.

Sundial Lesson

While visiting the campus we learned how to tell time like ancient mariners, using a sundial.  Lorrie and Rick (the CPA’s of course) were able to accurately read the sundial, plus a one hour change for daylight savings time.  Something new, something fun.

Bagels for Breakfast

When we anchor out, we eat pretty well, especially when our boating buddies join us!

Thanks, Lorrie for the Lox.

Cruising the Chesapeake

We were up close (but not TOO close) to a Liberty Ship (American Mariner) used by the Navy for live target practice.

Princess Anne Lighthouse

Early Mother’s Day Wishes

Sending warm wishes to all the moms in our lives!

Next Stop – Crisfield, Maryland (we arrived today, May 9), followed by more quiet coves on the Chesapeake – now that we are getting better at anchoring.  Thanks, Reality Check.

During the 19th century, oyster beds in the New York Harbor became the largest source of oysters worldwide. Can you imagine six million oysters, every day, on the barges tied up along the city waterfront? And, at the time, oysters were cheap and mainly eaten by the working class.

Meet fellow boaters, Joe and Cathy Davenport.   They have a bed of oysters on their dock in Deltaville, VA! Let’s just say, there was NO doubt about the freshness of the oysters!

Joe taught Rick and Rodger how to harvest and shuck the live oysters. Given how much we love oysters, that’s a skill that could come in handy for a long time!

Thanks Cathy! Your Oyster Rockefeller was oh, so, delicious.

Dink Racing

Of course Reality’s dinghy (they call it a dink) is named “Check”.  Maddie wasn’t so sure racing was a good idea …

 

Cruising the Chesapeake

This week we cruise the waters of Chesapeake, stopping first at St. Mary’s, Maryland, to anchor out with Reality.

By the way, we are in Maryland!

We don’t have a plan, and we might not have good cell service – but you can be sure we will be having a great time with these guys! Enjoying our sixth state on the loop.

Next Stop:

Enjoying the Chesapeake, anchoring out with Reality [Check]; slowly going north towards Baltimore (see you there, Donna), after a side trip to Los Angeles – see you soon, Danielle, Sandra and Mija!

America’s Great Loop Cruisers’ Association (AGLCA) rendezvous at the Waterside Marina.  Proudly waving nearly 70 white (in progress), gold (finished) and platinum (multiple loop) flags.

Majestic entry to Norfolk harbor.

The Towne of Lower Norfolk County was established in 1680.  The mouth of the Chesapeake Bay is home to “Naval Station Norfolk”, the largest navy base in the world.

Located on Sewell’s Point Peninsula, in the northwest corner of the city, the station is the headquarters of the United States Fleet Forces Command, with over 62,000 active duty personnel, 75 ships, and 132 aircraft. The base also serves as the headquarters to NATO‘s Allied Command Transformation.

Waterside Marina, Norfolk VA

Located in the center of the waterfront district, this lovely marina is easy walking distance from historic monuments, museums, restaurants, shopping and more.

Greeted by Blue Angels!

When the Blue Angels flew overheard, we knew the AGLCA gathering was going to be spectacular!  It didn’t hurt that the timing coincided with the annual NATO Celebration.

NATO Celebration

Exhale docked one block from the grand stand – perfect vantage point for the NATO parade, celebrating its 29 member nations.

I love a parade, especially when it includes small town bands, like the one from Boardman, Ohio, Irish bagpipes, and of course classic cars!

My favorite antique car is the Model-A, like the one my parents drove on the rugged AlCan Highway, when they moved from Pasadena to Alaska in 1947 – where they homesteaded after the end of World War II.  A quick google search revealed between 1925 and 2007, Ford Motor Company operated Norfolk Assembly, a manufacturing plant located on the Elizabeth River that produced the Model-T, sedans, station wagons, and the F-150 pick-up trucks.

AGLCA Loopers

We heard over 300 people attended the spring rendezvous! Unfortunately, we do not have a count for all the critters.  Let’s just say it was a bit overwhelming for Maddie, who sniffed her way around the numerous boat cats, dogs, and even a parrot.

Thanks so much to all the new and old friends we met and reconnected with in Norfolk! If you achieved Gold or Platinum level we are jealous, but, thanks for the sage advice, and hilarious stories, including Sea Trek (Bruce and Beverly) and Allison Leigh.  For those of you, like us, in “Progress” we look forward to meeting you again along the waters, with special mention to Namaste and Bucket List (so glad to reconnect), Nine Lives (our Dismal Swamp buds) and HMS Vagabond – possibly the most beautiful restoration we have ever seen.  And, our sincere thanks to our new “mostly vegan” friends on Reality (check) who successfully enticed us to take a train followed by a looooong and winding stroll to wally world (thanks, Lorrie and Rodger).

A word of encouragement to our new friends who are “Planning”, including Eric and Sheryl, don’t over plan.  We hope you find a special boat/home on the water, that you can truly enjoy, just as much as we love Exhale.

Thanks Norfolk 

Incorporated in 1705, Norfolk is home to roughly 245, 000 people.

Congrats to Jamie, David & Tyler

So excited you moved to a new home.  Can’t wait to see you guys in Cleveland!

Utopia Launched

Pop the Champagne corks for our beloved friends and land-based (or “dirt”) neighbors, Dale Morgan and Ann Hughes!! We are beyond thrilled you launched Utopia and started your Loop!  Can’t wait to see you on the waters!

Travel safe everyone.

Next Stop:

Heading to the Chesapeake (stopping in Deltaville, VA); then north towards the Hudson.

The infamous Dismal Swamp wasn’t so dismal, after all.

Albemarle Plantation

We spent two nights in Albemarle Plantation, a well-manicured gated community with a resident owned marina.  A delightful golfing community, they loaned us an electric golf cart to traverse around.  The slips were really wide, which meant I got to practice my lassooooing technique to secure the boat to the pilings.

Elizabeth City

Elizabeth City was our fifth port inside the Albermarle Loop, before traversing the Dismal Swamp. Another town, lost in time, Alisha would have loved this well stocked little sewing center.

Dock and Dine

This waterfront cold storage warehouse supplies most of the local restaurants in town, to encourage business they offered free dockage.  In exchange boaters are asked to 1) shop at their local stores then 2) complete a short customer satisfaction survey.  Brilliant!

Entrance to the Swamp

With numerous conflicting stories of how much the Dismal City was loved or hated, I was apprehensive when we heard of mechanical problems at the lock, trapping 4 boats inside just two days prior. When we heard the lock was operating again we headed to the swamp.

With the most spectacular weather we have experienced thus far in the journey, our experience was exceptional, worth repeating even.

Reflective Waters

Dismal Swamp Visitors Center

So, what exactly is the Dismal Swamp??

112,000 acres of forested wetlands.  In 1763, George Washington visited the area, and he and others founded the Dismal Swamp Company in a venture to drain the swamp and clear it for settlement. The swamp’s role in the history of slavery in the United States is reflected in Harriet Beecher Stowe‘s second novel, Dred: A Tale of the Great Dismal Swamp.

We docked at the Visitors Center, our final stop in the Albermarle Loop. A new looper friend, trawler cat Nine Lives rafted off of us. We then traveled in tandem to Norfolk.

Hello, Virginia

Entrance to Norfolk

The entrance to Norfolk, VA is dramatic, more details in the next post. Thanks Maureen for the dinner suggestion.   The Prime Rib at Freemason Abbey was yummy.

Waterside Marina, Rendezvous Week

The AGLCA Rendezvous is in Norfolk, VA through May 3. It’s time for Seminars and New friends!

We normally expect to “get what you pay for”, but, not always.  A brilliant marketing campaign by a coalition of rural waterfront towns in North Carolina caused us to detour to an area that “time seems to have forgotten.”

 

Year round, one dozen marinas in the Albemarle Loop offer 2 nights free stay. Times 12 locations, that could equal up to 24 nights free.  Proving public-private collaboration really can work (right, Sarah!) – with a little stimulus money, a dedicated chamber of commerce, and some clever entrepreneurs, each little town offers something special. And of course we bought something almost everywhere we went.

Waiting out the storm

We stayed in Oriental for a few days until there was a safe window to travel.  It was definitely the right decision.  At 3 am we found ourselves fully awake, surrounded by lightning, and strong winds.

 

Hospitality in Oriental

Yes, we took this little shuttle to the grocery store – you should have been there, Craig!

Alligator River Marina

This teeny tiny marina consisted of a gas station and a few small docks.  The new manager, Anna, and her team cooked a delicious meal of fried chicken and potato salad the way my mom made it – bite size bits of potatoes and boiled eggs, lots of sweet pickles, and just the right amount of mustard. We suggest you order your food then take a stroll, they make it from scratch so it takes about 40 minutes.  A quiet little refuge from yet another storm, a total of 5 looper boats showed up over time.

Columbia, NC

Originally known as Elizabethtown, this quaint historic town was renamed Columbia in 1801.  The Municipal Marina had only one slip that could accommodate Exhale, and it was full. Resourceful gold loopers, Nelson and Sandra suggested we “raft off”, tying our boat to theirs, and then ran the power and water lines across their bow.  Thanks guys – that was truly a fun evening!

In downtown Columbia we found authentic Mexican food (sorry no pics this time).  In addition to the glowing recommendation from Active Captain, the delicious aromas from the street caused us to walk in. A VERY busy little restaurant, with a well stocked mini-mart, we enjoyed some of the best tasting tamales since we moved from California.  It’s crazy busy for a reason.  We were delighted to hear a local retailer (the antique store across the street) tell us the hardworking family successfully paid off the financing for their restaurant, in full, in just 18 months! Once again proving, when the food is delicious, the customers keep coming back.

Columbia Theater and Cultural Resources Center

In the heart of downtown we found the local museum.  Thanks, Helen, for a delightful tour. Original theatre equipment, billboards, and even the “burnt-knuckle” popcorn machine were magical.  Check out the costumes, Alisha!

Scuppernong Wines

We were surprised to discover a local winery.  More than just a pretty label, this wine is made from local grapes.  Paired with chocolate, of course.

Edenton Harbor

Edenton was founded in 1712, it was the first colonial capital of North Carolina. Thanks, McCoy, for loaning us the city car, we certainly didn’t mind that “only one window worked, and the speedometer wasn’t quite right.”

1886 Roanoke River Lighthouse

Touring the lighthouse, situated in the same marina where we docked, was more than fantastic!!  Fueled by whale oil, the lighthouse was originally located on screw-pilings in the Albemarle Sound.

Decommissioned in 1941, it was barged, and “parked” on dry land. In May 2007, thanks to a depressed real estate market, the lighthouse was purchased for $225,000 by the Edenton Historical Commission.

Dedicated local volunteers formed a non-profit to save and restore the lighthouse.  Say a big YAY for a well focused non-profit with passionate, experienced fund raisers!  Restoration History

Small world moment – Rick knows one of the architects who refurbished the historic monument.  Thanks Meghan Beckmann for the pre-restoration photos and for your role in restoring this precious treasure!

Exhale is docked adjacent to the lighthouse.

Liber-tea, 21′ Duffy

Look, Dave, this Duffy is also from California.

Penelope Barker House

c. 1782, the welcome center is found in the well preserved three-story Barker House. Originally located 2 blocks north, in 1952 the Jaycees and the Edenton Woman’s Club took title, and had it “rolled” to it’s present site. Southern Charm and humor abound.

Fun facts about Penelope: Born in 1728, she married John Hodgson when she was in her teens; at age 19 she was expecting her second child when her husband died and left her all of his property.  At age 24 she married James Craven. Two years later he died, leaving her all of his property.  At age 28 she married Thomas Barker.  He was 44 at the time.  Together they had 3 kids. The Barker house was built in 1762 by Thomas and Penelope.  Additions to the home reflect an eclectic mix of Georgian, Federalist and Greek Revival styles.  When Penelope was 59, Thomas died.  He left her “town lots, 2 plantations, 33 mahogany chairs, 53 slaves, watches, horses and 400 books.”  Penelope died at age 68.

Local Orchids

Our visit to Edenton coincided with the annual garden party.  Our favorite was the orchids that were on display in the Barker House.

A Cypress for Alisha

Cypress trees are amazingly strong, as if to say “Last Thing Standing.”  Cypress trees remind me of Alisha, more than just surviving, she is thriving.

Next Stops – continuing the Albermarle Loop

So far in the Albermarle Loop we have stayed in Alligator River, Columbia, and Edenton.  Next, we plan to visit Hertford, Elizabeth City, Albemarle Plantation and the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center.  After we navigate the Dismal Swamp we are headed to Norfolk (the locals pronounce it Nor-fuck, no kidding) for the AGLCA spring rendezvous.

Taking time to smell the Flowers

Wildflowers in the Carolinas are fragrant and colorful, reminding us to stop and smell the roses.

We tried to identify the local flowers, be advised, you can’t believe everything you read.

Beaufort, North Carolina

The quant little town of Beaufort, North Carolina is not to be confused with Beaufort, South Carolina.  We finally learned how to properly pronounce each town..

Docking Skills

If you think it’s tough to parallel park, try docking between pilings.  Sometimes it’s a super tight squeeze, that’s when experience and patience come in real handy.

Marine Traffic

Sharing the water with boats big or small can add a sense of entertainment. Sometimes we see barge traffic,

Sometimes, it’s a fishing tournament!

Swansboro, NC

Casper’s Marina – cute logo, right, yet, the marina felt a bit like a ghost town.  Docking was easy, but as we attempted to hand the young dock hand our hose to hook up the water, he shrugged and said their water line was busted, and there was no water at any of the slips.  Stressfully, the next marina was too far away to navigate before dark.

When I said to the Marina boss, “Ma’am, I am surprised you did not disclose the water problem when we telephoned you early this morning” for me that’s a thinly veiled way to say WTF – she responded, “Well, we haven’t been able to get a plumber to come out here for the past three weeks, BUT there’s water in the marina bathrooms” I shook my head in disbelief.

Water in the bathrooms (which was less than clean, by the way) was not exactly what we were hoping for.  Fortunately, a very resourceful Captain Rick ran over 100 ft of hose from the main building to Exhale!

IceHouse Waterfront

Hey Dale, we found a restaurant within walking distance of Casper’s Marina that we think you might enjoy.  The clams and fettuccine at the IceHouse were delicious.  And just up the street is a local hangout, Bake Bottle & Brew, with an ice cold beer that my brother Sam would love.

Oriental, North Carolina

You must agree, live music and local tiki bars warm the soul. The marina at Oriental is one of the best so far – surrounded by live music and friendly locals.

Thanks Craig!

We truly enjoyed the company of Craig Adford – from April 2nd through April 15th he shared our journey. A close friend and great companion, he helped run the boat, drove round trip to Cleveland, helped with all things social, and was a personal chef (so, awesome). Craig flew to Charlotte in a commuter flight this morning and is currently stuck at the airport, due to a storm, hoping to catch a flight to LAX, sometime in the near future …  He texted “flight to LA cancelled due to tornado warnings. Wind and rain is intense, lightning to boot – stuck in the commuter plan until they declare it safe to deplane”

Thanks again Craig, can’t wait until you and Mo join us again.

Happy “birth” day little Gutierrez twins

Congrats to Erica, Elijah, London and Romeo – welcome to the world, sweet little twins.

Next Stop:

We are currently in Oriental, waiting for a storm to pass (the same one that has Craig trapped in Charlotte).  Next stop will be somewhere near Bellhaven, North Cackalacky.

 

R’s and P’s

Growing up I remember we could only eat oysters from September through April, months with the letter “R”.  Now, thanks to overnight international shipping, you can probably get oysters year round. If you like fresh seafood, the most delicious local oysters, and an amazing prime rib, when you visit Southport, NC, Mr. P’s is a must!

Southport, North Carolina

This charming little town, winter population ~2,500, was the filming location for the 2013 romance, Safe Haven.  Thanks to Amazon streaming, we watched the family friendly chick flick, recognizing most of the background locations.  The film was a little sappy for Rick’s taste, but at least it ended with a delightful twist.

Swing Bridges

Some swing bridges open only upon request. Figure Eight was supposed to open on the hour, every hour, from 7 am until 7 pm.  BUT it didn’t really work like that; we arrived 10 minutes before the hour and then waited, impatiently, until 15 minutes after the hour.  Hailing on channels 16, 13, 10 and 9 yielded no response. Thankfully there was a phone number listed in Active Captain.  Rick thinks the Bridge Dude was still sleeping …

Figure Eight Island Bridge

Play Date for Maddie

In Wrightsville Beach Maddie invited fellow boat dog, Sammy, to come aboard. Sammy let his boat mates, Dr. Will and Halcyon, hang out as well.  By the way, Mo, Craig is still growing out his beard … inspired by Dr. Will and beloved idol, Dave Letterman.

Water Scenery

At the pace of 7 knots, you can enjoy the random views along the way.

Next stop:  Craig is running the boat today while Rick tries to repair the freezer (protecting the ice cream). Possibly near Swansboro, NC.

Exhale was docked in Myrtle Beach (March 30 to April 10) while we celebrated several special milestones.

Happy Birthday Exhale

Exhale is actually a slow boat from China.  Coming through the Panama Canal, she arrived on a container ship via New Orleans just two years ago.  Since then we have spent 593 hours on the water and traveled 4143 nautical miles.  We are looking forward to many, many more.

Experienced Crew – Celebrating Good Friends

Thanks Craig, for joining us in Myrtle Beach, NC!  Craig arrived on April 2, and will be on board until April 15. It’s fantastic having an experienced crew member on board.

Cleveland – Celebrating Tyler

Craig and Rick drove 679 miles in roughly 11 hours to surprise Tyler on his 2nd birthday.  The journey to Cleveland included a little snow, which seems to be a constant during the first week of April.

Thanks Uncle Scott, Aunt Cindy, Rita, and Dan for helping us surprise Jamie, David and Tyler.

Our Grandson’s Birthday

On April 8, 2018 Tyler Jaxson Hendry turned two!

Mickey Mouse was in the House as Tyler celebrated his birthday with family and friends.

Los Angeles – Celebrating Alisha

Shortly before Craig arrived, I (MS) took a one-week side trip to LA (April 1 to April 7) to support Alisha during her surgery.

Alisha is the bravest, strongest woman I have ever encountered.  When she was in her late teens she broke two vertebrae in her neck during a national snowboarding competition.  It was a brutal crash.  Although badly injured she bravely got up and walked down the mountain. Her approach to cancer has been very similar.  She is a tower of strength, and she never gives up.

Since October, Alisha has endured seven nauseating rounds of chemo and two infusions.  No surprise, she continues to work, non stop.  In fact, in between the doses of chemo poisoning she successfully wrapped the second season of American Vandal, filmed in Portland.

Diagnosed triple positive in stage 3b; as of today, she is cancer free.  Bravo, Mija, you are a champion. And in the words of one of her nurses at City of Hope, “she truly rocks that bald look.” Looking forward to the release of  “one woman, one boob”.  Te amo! 

Special thanks to Liz (congrats, too), Dannie, Elke V, and Alisha’s sweet housemate J, for your love and support.  More thanks to Josie for the brisk walks and warm companionship.

Extra thanks to Mo for the screaming fast wifi connection at her office, for taking a mini break from tax season for a delicious meal, and for the early morning ride to LAX.  The flight to Cleveland was timed perfectly to join Rick and Mo’s hubby, Craig.

Meanwhile, back on the boat, there might have been some libations happening.

Next stop:  Somewhere in North Carolina, Craig gets to pick the next marina, possibly Surf City, NC.

 

 

 

Shallow or skinny water can be a really bad day for a boater.  A shallow pool is just sad.

Sorry Craig, we won’t be going swimming, yet.

Blue skies, nothing but blue skies.

After nearly a month of chilly weather, Easter morning was sunny and bright!

Myrtle Beach Yacht Club hosted Easter Brunch – the hot food was more than yummy, especially the homemade gravy, oh my.

This fun little tiki bar reminded us of Matt and Michele.  The outdoor shower was a hoot.

MBYC was definitely pet friendly.

Sun Ripened Tomatoes

The cherry tomatoes are getting ripe!

Osprey, South Carolina

Life is Good when Rick can shop at Costco.

Earlier in the week we enjoyed two nights at Osprey Marina.  Rick got his much needed “fix” at Costco, reminding us, again, that we are not really roughing it on this journey.

Reunited with our Looper friends from Kimberly Dawn, Scott Easton cooked up some deeee-licious ribs.  Maddie was not too sure what to make of the resident goats.

Love for Family and Special Friends

Happy Easter, Good Pesach, and general spring tidings.

Warm wishes for Harry Potter’s buddy, Anders, and his beloved family.

Sending all of our love, hugs and kisses to Alisha.

Coming up:  a visit from Craig Adford.  Exhale will be docked at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club in Little River, SC for the first part of April.  If you happen to be in the area, stop by and say hi to the guys!

 

With a population of ~500 residents, in McClellanville either you work for, or you are related to, a McClellan.

Meet Leland McClellan

Born and raised in McClellanville, Leland, a fellow Looper, was docked immediately behind Exhale.  After he helped tie up the lines he offered to show us around his home town.  The McClellan family roots date back to 1740, when Andrew McClellan, Leland’s great grandfather, ran a freight boat. On Leland’s maternal side, the Lofton family presence in South Carolina dates back to the early 1600s. A natural story teller, we knew we were in the company of a local legend. It was the most amazing small town experience ever.

St. James Santee Parish Church

Our tour guide said, “while it’s still daylight, do you want to see the Old Brick Church?” We ventured along the Old Georgetown Road, also known as the Kings Highway. Located in a remote portion of Francis Marion National Forest, we noticed there were no street lights, no electric or telephone poles, and no buildings as far as the eye could see. Traveling on a historic designated road, the carefully preserved “dirt” road was once used by George Washington.

Arriving at the old church, we knew we were getting special treatment when our host let us in the back door. We marveled at the historic structure, built in 1768.  Established by the French Protestant Huguenots, all it’s original glory remained intact.

Jeremy Creek

The well maintained docks at Jeremy Creek are owned by Leland Oil Company.

Shrimp Boats & Forrest Gump

When Hurricane Hugo hit McClellanville it devastated the shrimping fleet.  A resourceful film crew later used the wreckage in the filming of Forrest Gump! Jeremy Creek is still home to an active shrimp boat operation.

Soft-Shelled Crab

Let’s just say this was possibly the most delicious soft-shelled crab dinner we have ever experienced.  And yes, that’s a whole crab!  Thanks, Leland, for taking us to a local treasure, the Bent Rod.

Tiki Queen

Exquisitely cared for, the beloved Tiki Queen was tied up behind us at the Leland Oil Co. dock.  We look forward to connecting with fellow loopers, Leland and Karen McClellan, along the way.

Next Stop:   Waccawache Marina, SC

 

Any fifth grader can probably tell you the Civil War (1861-1865) began in South Carolina, as we wandered around Charleston I realized I seem to recall bupkis about US History.

Fort Sumter

The construction of Fort Sumter began in 1829 in response to the War of 1812.

The hexagon shaped fort was strategically placed at the harbor entrance to defend the deep water port from British troops – and pirates.

When South Carolina seceded in 1860 there were four Federal installations around Charleston Harbor.  On April 12, 1861, under the command of Major Robert Anderson, Fort Sumter was guarded by only 85 Federal soldiers. After 34 hours of canon fire by the confederate militia –  who had seized Forts Johnson, Moultrie, and Cummings Point – only five Federal soldiers suffered injuries; no one on either side was killed.

The Fort, burned and severely damaged, was surrendered to the Confederate troops, marking the beginning of a long and bloody war.

Who was Hannibal Hamlin?

Once again it felt like there was a missing segment in my aging memory bank.  Staring at a vintage campaign poster for Abraham Lincoln (my (Mary’s) dad was something like a 6th cousin to Mary Todd Lincoln), I was totally perplexed. Next to Abe was some guy named Hannibal  – questioning the validity of the poster, of course I  “googled” him.

According to Wikipedia, Lincoln’s running mate was a Maine Democrat who changed his party affiliation when he joined the ticket with Abe, the very first Republican president. We learned (seriously for the first time) that the 15th VP, Hannibal Hamlin(1809-1891), successfully pressured Abe to pursue emancipation.  In 1864, Tennessee War Democrat Andrew Johnson (the name we all remember) was chosen to run on the Union Ticket with Abe.  Hamlin returned to his home state to serve as Senator of Maine, and was later chosen as Minister to Spain; in total he spent over 50 years as a public servant.

US Customs House

Inclement weather meant a tour of local museums – The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon, preserved by the Daughters of the American Revolution, kept us mesmerized for hours – from the architecture to the entertaining docents, it was well worth the senior priced admission. The oldest building in Charleston was constructed above the original Battery.

A dramatic statement of wealth, the Exchange was once home to the Constitutional Convention as SC became the eighth state to ratify the US Constitution in 1788. Ground level floors were used for trading and a post office while the basement was deemed a “Provost”, or dungeon, for pirates and war criminals. Most impressive, the majestic upper floor includes a grand ballroom used by President George Washington; perfectly preserved, it is now a popular wedding space.

Charming Charleston

The historic charm of Charleston was found in the cobblestone streets and well-preserved churches, dating back to the early 1800’s.

Protection from a Storm

When the weather gets windy, you look for protection – when you are docked near the USS Yorktown, it feels pretty safe.

Next Stop:  McClellanville, SC – or somewhere nearby-ish

As record storms slammed the east coast again, Exhale was surrounded by heavy wind, rain, and hail storms. Refuge was found in the historic port of Beaufort, South Carolina for three stormy days.

Beaufort, South Carolina

Dodging the rain, we toured the local community, finding several historic gems.

 

Fellow Loopers

In Beaufort, our dock mates were the delightful Easton family – Kim, Scott, Chris, Ryan and their Director of Guest Relations, Charlie.  Kimberly Dawn began her journey in Tennessee, they have been on the water since last summer. Similar in speed, together we plan to anchor out, once the storm clears.

The Few, The Proud, The Marines 

“I learned more about American History in the past two hours than I did in high school”, said Capt. Rick.  Without a doubt, the Parris Island Marine Corp museum has more military artifacts than any museum we have ever seen.  Take your time; it’s an educational, emotional journey.

Notice the viperous snake wound around the Southern Republic tree.  Proud of our deep California roots, Ohio, Pennsylvania, and New York connections.

What type of plane was that?

We marveled as the military planes flew by – we think this one was the Harrier, since it hovered overhead, as if it was suspended in motion. We saw multiple aircrafts in the span of 15 minutes – touch and go – high and low!

Southern Hospitality

Happy to be back on the water, we enjoyed the hospitality of South Carolina.

Location, location, location.  These lucky birds secured an exclusive waterfront property.

Not all Boat Dogs are friendly – Stranger Danger

As most of you know, Maddie is a highly social dog. She loves to meet new people and she is quick to sniff new dogs, of all sizes. Bigger dogs, like Maddie’s best friend Chopper, are often the most friendly. Unfortunately, smaller dogs, especially Miniature Schnauzers are royal jerks. It turns out dogs that are actually at eye level can do a lot of damage in less than 5 seconds. After a malicious encounter I guarantee you Maddie will not be so quick to say hello. A hard nip on her ear and her neck may have scared us more than her!  A readily available first aid kit came in handy, and she seems to be okay.  Lesson learned, you are right, Mo; Stranger, Danger.

After a rough storm and a mean dog, Maddie might be looking for a good bourbon.

Next stop – Steamboat, anchoring out with Kimberly Dawn.

 

Off the beaten path on St. Patrick’s Day

Over 500,000 people were expected in Savannah for the annual St. Patrick’s Day parade; since crowds are not “our thing”, we detoured up the East Channel Medway River. The water was skinny (shallow), as discovered by this go-fast boat.

Although it looks like that guy is walking on water, sadly, his boat is stuck in the sand.

Sunbury Crab Company – St. Patrick’s Day

We were headed to a local treasure in Midway, GA, Sunbury Crab Company Restaurant and Marina. MOTA and AGLCA members we recommend you detour off the ICW like we did – it’s well worth the journey.  Tell the owners, Elaine and Barney Maley, that Exhale sent you.  Call ahead, (912) 884-8640, you won’t regret it.  www.sunburycrabco.com

We know, the cheddar cheese fries are not at all healthy, but they were more than decadent with an ice cold Yuengling, followed by the perfect portions of mahi mahi, grilled shrimp and a tender rib eye. The next morning we left at high tide, to reduce the chance of sand surfing.

Isle of Hope

Southern hospitality at this delightful marina includes a loaner car – thanks, Kimberly!

Historic Savannah

Almost8 strongly encouraged us to explore the majestic waterfront – so glad we did!

The streets of Savannah were absolutely entertaining – unique little boutiques, live music, and delightful places to eat.  Okay, I couldn’t stop laughing when we discovered the Dancing Dogs Yoga studio; and then we found the Paula Deen store. Hey! My butter churned to chocolate – Butter, butter, and more butter, Y’all.

Canons and Steeples

Recommended by the dock master, we parked near Madison Square, then headed north to the water front. Along the way we marveled at the architecture, and paused to admire the well preserved Washington Guns, which welcomed distinguished visitors to Savannah including Jefferson Davis, Grover Cleveland, William McKinley, William Taft and Franklin D. Roosevelt.

Thanks again Almost8 – the historic sites in Savannah were breathtaking!

Next Stop:  Hilton Head, South Carolina.

 

Proud to be Irish!

Celebrating St. Patrick’s Day all weekend, instead of leprechauns they have coyotes and beavers as the Irish mascots in Jekyll Harbor!

We highly recommend the fresh shrimp dinner at the Riverhouse in Jekyll Harbor, GA. Tip: sit at the bar, enjoy the service and an ice cold draft.  If you opt to eat outside be advised, the aggressive little no-see-uhms are hungry, too.

St. Augustine, St. John County

St. Augustine is one of our favorite cities on the east coast of Florida, delicious local food and countless historic sites are abundant.  We spent a full week there last year so we only sailed by – but no worries, we will be back again, for sure.

Smoke on the Water

Anchored out in Ponte Vedra Beach, another magical experience.  Early morning waters included a wisp of fog.

Celebrating Shrimp Season

It’s easy to exhale when the water is smooth as glass!

Wishing you sweet dreams, Stephen Hawking

With deep sadness the world said goodbye this week to a rare man.  Your brilliance and humor will be greatly missed, Stephen William Hawking. Enjoy the cosmos.

‘One, remember to look up at the stars and not down at your feet. Two, never give up work. Work gives you meaning and purpose and life is empty without it. Three, if you are lucky enough to find love, remember it is there and don’t throw it away.’ 

Stephen Hawking 1942-2018

Next Stop – Sunbury Crab Company.

Early mornings in Melbourne are calm and still.

Melbourne Rowing Crew

Ichabod

The popular marina bar is ominously named Ichabod. I wondered, is it a reference to the headless horseman or perhaps the Hebrew meaning “without honor”?  Well, we were here earlier this year, on Super Bowl Sunday.  There were about a dozen people in the bar merrily eating and drinking, with the big game in the background on multiple screens.  To our complete surprise, the bartender announced he was going to close the bar before half-time, shortly after we finished our first beer, so you decide …

In Melbourne we met fellow loopers Ron and Debbie Hartwell, captains of Bucket List.

The waters of Fort Pierce included the entertainment of seasoned tugs who adeptly maneuvered a barge, along with small fishing crafts enjoying the crisp morning air.

From Cocoa Village to Daytona Beach, we marveled at the bridges.

Anchoring Out

In New Smyrna Beach, FL we anchored out for the first time on this journey!  With two sailboats and another troller anchored nearby, we set the DragQueen (just ask Hazel, it’s an app with an obnoxious alarm that goes off when the anchor moves too far away), and poured a delicious glass of red wine. Yes, HereWeGo, you can join us anytime!

No marina noise, no wind, no rain, no trains, no air conditioning or running generators; it was the perfect quiet for a truly restful sleep!

Early morning departure was very chilly for Florida. As you can see, the task required a warm coat, long pants and gloves!  In short order, Rick deftly pulled up the anchor, and we were on the road again.

Not sure where we will head next – maybe St. Augustine, maybe another anchoring spot near Jacksonville.

No, Hazel, the Exhale is NOT for sale. The North Pacific trawler is typically seen in the Puget Sound area – Canada, Alaska, and Washington. A bit of a novelty on the east coast, we opened our home to nearly 700 people during the 2018 Trawlerfest in Stuart, FL.  Our guard dog, Maddie Sue, made sure no one sat on her recliner.

On Tuesday, the crowded looper seminar confirmed our general travel plans, with stunning photos of historic ports and scenery along the way there was only one rule – keep a close eye on the weather!

Trevor Brice, President of North Pacific Yachts, tirelessly answered questions from curious boaters for four full days. Our dear friend, David Floyd, was the first overnight guest on the Great Loop!

Sunday Dinner Guests:  Thanks Howard and Ann Freedman for making the drive from Delray Beach. Together we found a hidden gem for dinner – Sauder’s Landing, 9815 S. Ocean Dr, Bldg S., Jensen Beach, FL. Nestled in a gated community, this waterfront local restaurant has the best crab cakes I have ever eaten in a restaurant (almost, but not quite as good as Marty Liljequist’s homemade)! The grouper bites were amazing. Save room for homemade dessert, the portions are generous with plenty enough to share.  www.sauderslanding.com

And the winner is …

At the end of the festival, PassageMaker, the popular trawler lifestyle magazine, awarded a trophy to the top voted boat in the show. In addition to our North Pacific, boats on display included Azimut, Bavaria (thanks for the memories, looper blogger First Mate Kate), Beneteau, Cutwater, Fleming, Hampton, Horizon, Jenneau, Krogen, Minorcan Islander, Prestige (we miss you, Ann Hughes and Dale Morgan!), Nordhavn, Nordic Tug, Northern Marine, Ranger Tug, Rosborough, and Trawlercat.  Whew.

That’s right – in the midst of so many beautiful vessels, the 2018 People’s Choice Award went to Exhale!

Thanks Passage Maker for the truly awesome cheeseboard!

And now for a message from Mother Nature …

The boat show finally ended on Sunday.  Today (Monday) our departure has been delayed by the weather, giving us plenty of time to update this blog.

Next Stop:  Somewhere along the ICW, north of Stuart, weather permitting.