Author: Exhale52

There are numerous little places to explore in the Florida panhandle.  In fact, our early loop plans contemplated nearly a month meandering slowly down the west coast of Florida. #1 lesson learned on this journey: all plans are subject to change. 

ClearWater, Florida

Still fueled by the adrenalin rush of crossing the Gulf of Mexico, we realized we could reach Fort Myers in just two long days.  Unanimous vote by the crew, let’s go for it!

Venice, Florida, November 10th

Thanks Capt Rick for arranging the most decadent of dinners at the Crows Nest in Venice.  When we docked at the restaurant, we were met by two of the most capable marina hands on our journey who tied us up, lick-it-ee split.  Thanks Brad and Aaron!

If you are in the area, the waterfront restaurant is a must visit.  Here’s the Crow’s Nest website (go ahead and click) so you can see why.

And yes, 11/10 was definitely a happy 59.

November 11, 2018 – Armistice Day / Veteran’s Day

Happy Veteran’s Day everyone.  Thank you for your service, Dave.

One Hundred Years Ago – on the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month, 1918 an armistice or temporary cessation of hostilities, was declared between the Allied nations and Germany in World War I, then known as “the Great War.”  On November 11, 1921, an unidentified American soldier killed in the war was buried at Arlington National Cemetery near Washington, D.C. On the same day the previous year, unidentified soldiers were laid to rest at Westminster Abbey in London and at the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. If you want to know more about Veteran’s Day, here’s a wonderful lesson from the History Channel. 

Happy Birthday, Miss Saucy Austy

Our niece, Austin Maurer, born on the 11th hour of the 11th month of the 11th year (November 11, 2011 at 11 am).

Today is the day Exhale will cross her wake.  In our final leg we celebrated a golden sunrise, for a gold looper day.

Familiar Waters – the canals of Town & River

It was a little bittersweet as we entered our home canal.  The bucket list adventure was quickly coming to an end.  For some on board, the journey was ending too soon. One crew member was more decisive; Admiral Maddie Sue was eager to return to her grassy yard.

Fort Myers Arrival – Crossing Her Wake

As the house came into view, we could see fellow boaters and land lubbers awaiting our return.  Thank you Steve Jones, friend extraordinaire, for orchestrating the warm homecoming!

Upholding a glorious mariner’s tradition, we were greeted by a Canon Salute!

Friends at the dock included

Raising the Gold Flag

As Capt Rick has said, numerous times, the best part of this journey is the people we met.  We made many new friends along the way, friends for reasons, friends for seasons, and a special few, who we believe, will be friends for a life time.

Thank you everyone, for sharing in this journey.

This is the PC Exhale, Gold Looper 2018, signing off for now.

Great Loop Final Stats

Nautical Miles (NM): 4,908, Average speed: 6.30 knots, Fuel Consumption Per Hour: 3.46 gallons, NM per gallon: 1.82, Avg Nautical Miles per travel day: 35.3

Statute Miles (SM): 5,648, Average Speed: 7.25 MPH, SM per gallon: 2.096, Avg Statute Miles per travel day: 40.6

Engine Hours: 779

Total Days to complete Loop:  256, Travel Days/Stops along the way: 139

Total Locks completed = 150

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois & Ohio Rivers: 8 locks + 2 dams (wickets thrown down)
• Kentucky – Kentucky Lake Lock and Dam: 1
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1
• Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway: 12

States and Provinces traversed on the water:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama (18)

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario (2).

Side trips (via train, plane or automobile):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [5 – May, June, July, Sept, Oct] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles, St. Louis, and Chattanooga (with B & B), Lookout Mountain & Missionary Ridge, TN by train (with B & B), MS road trip from Orange Beach, Alabama to Fort Myers with Maddie, drove from Fort Myers to Orange Beach with Dave Floyd

Boating can be spectacular – it can also be treacherous.  We cannot emphasize enough – Weather Advisories must be taken seriously – as Mother Nature has no pity for fools.  Be Smart.  Plan for the worst, establish a safety plan, and travel with a known boat buddy (someone you trust, and care about). When there is a weather window – Go, Go, Go!

Apalachicola, Florida

But First, a scrumptious meal with Unfettered & Gypsy at Up the Creek Oyster Raw Bar.  Rick and I agreed, it was possibly the best shrimp we have ever eaten! We also said a tearful but happy “See Ya Later” to Gypsy. Don’t worry Susan and Jim, we will connect again (Jim, there’s still a Gin Smash in the fridge awaiting your return).

Gulf of Mexico Crossing Schedule

Departure:  Thursday, 11/8/2018. Time: 1100 hours

On Board: Flotilla commander – Captain Rick; First Mate – Mary; Seasoned Crew, Co-Pilot, Chef, and Bridge Measuring Tall Guy – David Floyd; Admiral, Safety Officer – Maddie Sue.

Float Plan:  Depart Apalachicola, FL at 1100 hours, Crossing the Gulf of Mexico.  Approximately 171 miles. Average Speed 7 knots.  Lead Boat is Exhale followed by Unfettered. Cavara to fall into rank en-route. Rendezvous with Bushranger roughly 1400 hrs (2 pm). Roll Call includes 1) Exhale, 2) Bushranger, 3) Unfettered, 4) Cavara. Destination: Clearwater, FL.  Estimated Travel Time – 24 hours.

Crew Shifts: 2.2.2

Over the period of 24 hours, Three crew member shifts, scheduled as follows:  2.2.2   Two hour nap, Two hour “on watch” in co-pilot seat, two hour as boat pilot, repeat. Subject to change, or as vetoed by the commander, of course.

Captain’s Log: Thursday, Nov 8, 1124 hours (11 am), Apalachicola

Departed with Buddy Boat, Unfettered.

Captain’s Log: 1404 hours (2 pm), somewhere near Carabelle (open water).

Rendezvous with Bushranger successful.  Package handoff completed.

Captain’s Log:  1414 hours, Flotilla roll call complete.

Captain’s Log 1500 hours.

All Looper’s in position. Water slight chop. Roll call and hourly report from Flotilla, all is well, more or less.

Crew Report 1600 hours  Commander at helm station, taking catnap.

Crew Report:  1700 hours – Crockpot filled with beef stew, courtesy of Chef David.

By the way, thanks again Marty & Anders! We used this baby many, many times.

Captain’s Log: Thursday, 1730 hours (5:30 pm), sun setting on the Gulf of Mexico

Captain’s Log: 1800 hours.

Running Lights are on. Flotilla is in position. Gentle Rolling Waves.  All is well.

Friday, November 9, 2018

Crew Report: Friday, November 9, 0100 hours (1 am).  Commander sleeping. Dolphins observed playing starboard, alongside the pilot house cabin door, as if to say “hey”!

Captain’s Log, Friday, 0250 hours (2:50 am), no moon, 3 following, running lights strong.

Captain’s Log, Friday, 5:56 am, calm waters, 2 following, running lights strong.

Bushranger set a course to Tarpon Springs.  Travel Safe Aussie’s

Captain’s Log: 5:58 am – Crack of Dawn

Captain’s Log  6:10 am – Here Comes the Sun

6:51 am, Gulf of Mexico

6:53 am, Gulf of Mexico

Arrival in Clearwater: Friday, November 9, 11:10 am. On Schedule (Yep, 24 hours!)

WE DID IT!

Thanks Commander Rick for the phenomenal planning, level headed guidance, exceptional buddy boat skills (adjusting speed for the turtle boat) and perfect timing for the weather window; it was a course well set for all! Thanks to everyone in the flotilla, the hourly check-ins by all boats kept everyone entertained and awake, thanks to Capt Rick (and watch dog Maddie Sue), we all arrived safe. And, thanks to David Floyd for making the 11 hour road trip to join us on the final leg.

Clearwater, Florida. Little Toot

Enjoying the timing of this little boat.  In my head: I think we can; I hope we can; I know we can; oh YES, we did!

Turtle Tribute

For all the Turtle Boats

For those of you unfamiliar with the Gulf of Mexico Crossing, here’s our Nebo Log, complete with a map showing the route and speed intervals over a period of 24 hours.  Let’s be clear – crossing the gulf of Mexico in the dark of the night, with no land in sight, was a BIG deal!!

Click here for the NeboLog

Next up:  Crossing the Wake in Fort Myers on Sunday!

Invitation to our Fort Myers Neighbors:

Please join us at our house on Sunday, November 11 around 4 pm. Come around to the dock (backyard), watch us come in, and share in the champagne!

Breaking News: 24-hour gulf crossing in progress, November 8, 2018.

If the water is smooth, it should be approximately 24 hours. Yep, 24. From Scipio to Clearwater is 171 nautical miles. To save you the math, that means 7.125 knots per hour, on average. We left the dock at 11 am, so we plan to be in Clearwater by 11 am on November 9, 2018.

Breathe deep everyone, we got this! We are traveling with three buddy boats, Bushranger, Unfettered and Cavara.

First, Let’s Get Caught Up.

Orange Beach, Alabama

We left off in Orange Beach where we had an Aussie good time with Bushranger

Utopia crosses its wake

Congrats to our fabulous dirt neighbors, Ann and Dale for crossing your wake!!

Road Trip to Fort Myers, FL

Exhale was docked in Orange Beach while Rick flew to LA and Mary and Maddie drove to Fort Myers.

It was a great time to catch up with friends (Hey, Donna!) and meet with nonprofit clients, including Southwest Florida Community Foundation, Wildlife Education Project and Eva’s Closet. 

Happy Halloween from the SWFL Yacht Club

Hello to our yacht club friends.

Bolder Boards with Dan Pallotta

From an inspirational Long Beach CA TED Talk in 2013, to a personal meeting with Dan Pallotta.  Living a Dream.

Working with my favorite nonprofit, SWFLCF – Dan Pallotta at the Collaboratory. (thanks, Sarah, Sydney and Erica. The Art of Thank You.)

Wildlife Education Project

Meet another nonprofit client, Dot and Trooper from WEP, taking care of business at Bank of America.

Eva’s Closet

Dear friend, and former colleague, Danielle Visone, strategy chat with Board member of Eva’s Closet.

Thanks for Voting!

For all of you who got out and voted, no matter what oval you filled in, THANKS!

 

Sunrise in Fort Myers

An early departure, Dave joined us for an 11 hour car ride with Maddie from Fort Myers to Orange Beach.

Traveling with Friends

Dave Floyd is back on board, he’s doing the crossing with us. Hooray! And, thanks.

Reunion with Gypsy – Welcome to Florida

It is great to travel with Gypsy. They inspired us to run from the Fly Bridge.  So awesome.

Welcome Committee

Fort Walton Beach, FL with Gypsy

Standing Proud in the face of Hurricane Michael

Ever wonder where those tarps come from? Operation Blue Roof by the Corp of Engineers is well underway.

Lighthouse, Panama City

North Star

It was tragic to see the 261 foot North Star run aground by Hurricane Michael. A freezer stern trawling vessel, she was destined for the Bering Sea, but did not leave soon enough. If you want to learn more, read here. 

Here we go – may the waters be smooth and the weather gods kind.

Traveling with Unfettered, Cavara and Bushranger. Flat waters so far. Taking turns staying awake!

We just met Bushranger on the water! The exchange: boat baked bread from Heather for boat baked oatmeal chocolate chip cookies, packed in a water tight bag in case the handoff (in motion) gets soggy. Yum!

Next up: Chill the Champagne, Exhale is about to Cross her wake in Fort Myers!

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Nautical miles traveled as of November 8 (before the gulf crossing): 4,609, fuel consumption: 2,543 gallons

Total Locks completed = 150

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 locks plus 2 dams (wickets thrown down)
• Kentucky – Kentucky Lake Lock and Dam: 1
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1
• Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway: 12

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama (18)

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario (2).

Side trips (via train, plane or automobile):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [5 – May, June, July, Sept, Oct] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles, St. Louis, and Chattanooga (with B & B), Lookout Mountain & Missionary Ridge, TN by train (with B & B), MS road trip from Orange Beach, Alabama to Fort Myers with Maddie

Demopolis, Alabama

Demopolis is a well known holdover for the Fall Migration of boaters, eagerly waiting for hurricane season to officially end. Infamous for its unique customer service …

Demopolis Lock and Dam, lock #149

Another early morning lock.

Bashi Creek – anchored out with Bushranger

Our new Aussie friends, Heather and Mark Rutherford on Bushranger, lead the way to Bashi Creek, another serene anchorage.

Some logs are good …

We spend countless hours watching for – and avoiding – logs, since they can cause serious damage. Once in a while, logs in the river serve to be rather useful.

Log patrol continues

When the apparent “log” is traveling against the current, is more likely an alligator.

Bobby’s Fish Camp – tonight’s dinner special – fish

Although the dock is only long enough for two or three boats, the river is wide, making it easy to raft off.  We heard the record number was 17 boats! Generous, delicious portions of fresh fish are served Thursday through Sunday, so time your arrival.

CoffeeVille Lock and Dam

Drum roll  – we ROCKED the last lock of our loop, a total of 150 since March 1, 2018. Enjoying a little coffee in CoffeeVille, Royal Navy kayaker, Steve Chard hitched a ride. To learn more about Steve Chard “one man, his kayak and 6,000 miles of water” click here. 

Three Rivers – anchored out with Dirt Neighbors

Champagne was uncorked with Bushranger after our final lock.  It was a Double Celebration due to the reunion of Exhale and Utopia, our real life, same street, “dirt” neighbors from Fort Myers.

Thank you, Dale Morgan, for taking Capt. Rick and I to a Fort Myers, FL seminar about the loop, long before you guys bought your beautiful boat.  Utopia started their adventure on the Great Loop on May 1, 2018. Perhaps you heard of Ann, the Basket Lady, who handed out sweets and treats to smiling lock staff.  And now we have mutual friends on Gypsy (see you soon, Susan and Jim Merritt). It is a privilege to cruise with Utopia again, as we all share in the Dream Journey.

Mobile River

Mobile Convention Center

We continued to travel with Bushranger, tying off at the wall of the convention center for two days, a strategic location for a “walk about” of Mobile.

The Rutherford Collection

What a treat, to find the Rutherford Collection.  We didn’t know we were in the company of royalty when we met the Aussies.

Riding in Style.

The Wharf at Orange Beach, Alabama

Congratulations to Beverly Abel, Sea Trek. She’s now a Gold Looper.

Champagne at Orange Beach with Bruce and Beverly from Sea Trek. 

Where are we headed next:  Florida Panhandle, weather permitting.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 150

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 locks plus 2 dams (wickets thrown down)
• Kentucky – Kentucky Lake Lock and Dam: 1
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1
• Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway: 12

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama (18)

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario (2).

Side trips (via train, plane or automobile):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles, St. Louis, and Chattanooga (with B & B), Lookout Mountain & Missionary Ridge, TN by train (with B & B)

 

The Tennessee Tombigbee Waterway is known locally as the “Tenn-Tom.” Why? Because it’s a lot easier to remember, especially for people of a certain silver age.

This week we opted to be “on the hook” with Sea Trek at four (4) locations along the Tenn-Tom.

 Whiten Lock – anchorage

For us, anchoring out is akin to glamour camping, or “glamping.” since we eat under a star-filled sky, surrounded by the sounds of nature.

When you don’t have tv distractions, it’s a great time to play Train Dominoes.

Thanks Marty and Anders for introducing us to this lively game. As you can see, Beverly won this round.

Glover Wilkens Dam – anchorage

Columbus, MS

Look, Trevor, at the marina in Columbus we found a North Pacific Sedan!

Locking with Loopers

We departed Columbus with a flotilla, six Loopers including us.

Wondering if this is Clark Kent country … that might explain the strategic location of this phone booth.

Windham Landing – anchorage

We enjoyed yet another beautiful night with Sea Trek.

White Cliffs, Alabama

Who exactly was “Tom Bigbee?”  As we approached the majestic White Cliffs, we had plenty of time to research the burning question.

Expecting the answer to be a southern gentlemen or a politician influential enough to have his name on a 234-mile commercial channel with ten locks and dams, Wikipedia provided another American history lesson.

During the 17^th century, the gentle winding river formed the eastern boundary of the Choctaw lands. In the 1830’s, President Andrew Jackson signed a forced migration of the Native Americans into law. Aptly named, Tombigbee is a Choctaw term meaning box maker or coffin maker, a somber reminder of the devastating Indian Removal.

Rattlesnake cutoff – anchorage

Thanks to Sea Trek, patrol for the night was a welcomed alien.

Thanks for the ride to shore, Capt Bruce.  We enjoyed anchoring out with y’all.

Unicorns are more than magical!

A special shout out to Maureen O, who provided this week’s trivia:  the unicorn is the official animal of Scotland! Now that’s a country that appreciates good libations. If you doubt the power of a unicorn – here’s the official word from National Geographic:

Next up: finishing the Tennessee –Tombigbee Waterway 

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 146 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 plus 2 dams (wickets thrown down)
• Kentucky – Kentucky Lake Lock and Dam: 1
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1
• Tenn-Tombigbee Waterway: 10

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama (18)

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario (2).

Side trips (via train, plane or automobile):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles, St. Louis, and Chattanooga (with B & B), Lookout Mountain & Missionary Ridge, TN by train (with B & B)

Pickwick Landing Lock & Dam, Tennessee

Pickwick Landing Dam is a hydroelectric dam on the Tennessee River, one of nine dams owned and operated by the Tennessee Valley Authority, which built the dam in the 1930s as part of a New Deal-era initiative.  Thanks, FDR!

For all you boaters, the dam causes one heck of a current as you enter the lock!

If you want to learn more about Pickwick Landing Dam, click here

Maddie found a new spot to hang out on the long voyages.

Road Trip!!

We docked Exhale for a week so we could take a side trip with Sea Trek to Chattanooga.

Battle of Shiloh, April 6 and 7, 1862

As we entered the national park, a rush of emotions overwhelmed us as we realized the battle fields extend as far as the eye can see.

Monuments are positioned with respect for the lost souls from the Civil War, a battle fought Across Five Aprils (novel by Irene Hunt, published in 1964 and winner of the 1965 Newbery Honor)

Neither Rick nor I have ever experienced such a gut wrenching sadness, felt deep in our hearts. The official loss: 23,746 casualties over the course of just two days.

The Civil War, fought from April 1861 until May 1865, engaged children as young as 10. Tragically, the war ripped the country apart – with many of the same fundamental issues we continue to face today.

Cotton Fields

As we drove by acres and acres of cotton, I couldn’t help but think of the significant role the puffy white balls played in the shaping of our nation.

Huntsville Rocket

On the drive we spotted the Saturn V rocket – the one from all the moon shots!

Chattanooga, Tennessee – by rail

SongBirds – Guitar Museum

While Capt Rick was on yet another conference call, I got to explore the SongBirds Museum with Bruce Peck and his beloved first mate, Beverly Abel from Sea Trek.

Ruby Falls

If you visit Chattanooga, take the time to do real touristy stuff. Make your #1 stop Naturally Wonderful.

Always 60 degrees Fahrenheit; “below freezing” for Maureen. This 145-foot waterfall is located 260 feet below ground.

Lookout Mountain – Incline Railway

Another distinguished tourist destination, found one mile high, is both a National Historical and National Mechanical Engineering Landmark.

72.7% incline, the steepest passenger railway in the world.

The switch. At the halfway point two cars pass alongside each other. Using a weight and pulley system.

Rock City

Hey Susan Merritt, Gypsy, we recommend you See Rock City! Home of the mushroom rock, gnomes climbing rocks, and some rather stunning views.

Overlooking the Tennessee Valley you can see seven states; binoculars provided for a quarter.

Missionary Ridge – a special train ride

Like most of the men I know who are young at heart, Bruce Peck, Sea Trek, loves trains! Thanks Beverly Abel, Sea Trek, for handling all the logistics for our journey by rail on the Tennessee Valley Rail Road.  We loved the trip to Missionary Ridge.

Maddie’s First Train Ride

Iuka, Mississipi

After a wonderful road trip with B & B, we returned to Aqua Marina, where we were joined by Capt. Rick’s younger brother, Bobby G. (aka Bubba). Welcome Aboard – next time, please bring Katy!

Violets for Maureen

Look Mo, with consistent tender care, the violets from Canada bloomed again, reminding us of you. Notice the candle in the background :-)

Next up: South down the Tennessee Tom-Bigby Waterway aka the Tenn-Tom 

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 136 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 plus 2 dams (wickets thrown down)
• Kentucky – Kentucky Lake Lock and Dam: 1
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont, Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi, Alabama (18)

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario (2).

Side trips (via train, plane or automobile):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles, St. Louis, and Chattanooga (with B & B), Lookout Mountain & Missionary Ridge, Tennessee by train (with B & B)

 

Paducah, Kentucky

The city marina in Paducah is one long wall, making it really easy to dock.

In Paducah we met Jim and Kelly Horan, S/V Jimmy Rigged.  So sad to hear about your sailboat tragedy going into the marina, so thankful you were quickly rescued and your three orange kitties are all okay.

Happy Birthday Bruce

Celebrating 56 (strike, reverse that, Willy Wonka!).  Live Long and Prosper Sea Trek.

Green Turtle Bay, Kentucky

A popular destination for southern folks (Hello, Donna!), there were hundreds of turtles swimming around Green Turtle Bay.  Accustomed to people feeding them, the turtles climb on top of each other – forget about a “dog pile”, the aggressive little turtle piles were insane.

Patti’s 1880’s Settlement – worth the stop! Click here to learn more!

Dry Fork Bay Anchor, Land Between the Lake

Congrats to Forever Friday and HeartBeat – celebrating their FIRST day on the Loop.

Hello Tennessee

Pebble Isle, Tennessee

Don’t ever underestimate the power of one.  One child, one woman, one man, one voice.

From just one small acorn, grows a mighty oak.

Savoring the Sunset

Dense Morning Fog – ARGH! Thanks, Garmin, for the navigational tools. And Thanks, Capt. Rick for keeping out a keen eye.  Well done, babe.

Tennessee

From a small seed to a dense forest. Walnut trees, so beautiful.

Bridge to no where

This reminded me of Sarah Palin – If you are from Alaska, you know why.

Beech Creek Island Anchor

Anchoring out with Sea Trek. Another perfect evening. Thanks for the Little Beers.

Tennessee River Rocks

This is for Susan Merritt, we miss you Gypsy!

Fall Migration

On the waters, “fall migration” is a busy season.  As leaves turn autumn red a virtual “convoy” heads south, filling up the anchorages and marinas along the way. By late November most loopers will be off the mighty rivers, headed to Texas, Florida, the Caribbean, and other warm waters.

So far, Exhale is on track to be in southwest Florida by late December.

Next up:  Aqua Harbor, Mississippi

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 135 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet, Illinois and Ohio Rivers: 8 plus 2 dams
• Tennessee – Pickwick Lock and Dam: 1

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, Kentucky, Tennessee, Mississippi

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept]), Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Charles and St. Louis by car (thanks, B and B)

We left Exhale docked in Alton, Illinois to make another side trip to California. A visit with special friends and family began with Craig and Maureen (former and future Exhale crew members).

Moorpark, CA

Continuously vying for attention, Maddie and Murphy, a 95 lb young English Labrador Retriever, eventually found a balance.

Thanks for the first class treatment, and, for the healthy diet plan. We’ll report back later on our progress.

Los Angeles – A CareGiver Lesson from Mija

Have you ever seen a dog running along the road, at risk of being hit by a car?  What did you do?  Would you watch closely to make sure it stays away from the traffic, until you pass by? Not if you are my daughter, Alisha.  First, pull ahead, jump out and try to catch the dog.  Now, what if you see someone else trying to do the same thing?  Would you let them take over and continue on to your original destiny?  No again.  Work together, position both cars farther ahead and try again, about 5 times, coax the dog towards you with some kind of food (cheese crackers).  Okay, what if that dog has bloody feet?  Engage volunteer car driver #2, and your mom; gently lift the dog into the back of your SUV and transport it to the nearest dog hospital.  But wait, what if the dog hospital says you can’t leave the dog there?  Ask for expert help to find the owner, noting it is wearing a tag.  When they identify the owner and dog, Kopi Tart, but can’t reach the family, you generously offer to pay to bandage up the dog (the hospital did it for free), and agree to transport the dog to its home, only a few blocks away.  If no one answers the door, do you leave the bandaged dog inside the fenced yard?  No, you take it to the nearby shelter, to make sure Kopi Tart is safe until the owners can retrieve the beautiful dog.  Sarah O, I know you are listening; I believe you would have done the same.

Proud Mama, Thanks Mija

I firmly believe the dedication of roughly an hour of time by my daughter, Alisha, saved the life of Kopi Tart; Mija was given the chance to exit the task every step of the way, but she never gave up.  She was determined to make sure Kopi Tart was safe.  That’s how Alisha lives her life, every day; she goes the extra mile, with human kindness.  My baby cannot, and will not, be stopped, undeterred by any obstacle.  And by now, I am confident, Kopi Tart has been reunited with her family.  BTW, Alisha’s last infusion is Sept 24.  Take a permanent hike, Big C!   

Long Beach, and then there were three.

On our last day in CA we had a delicious new age Rosh Hashanah meal with Danielle, Sandra, Leo and Abby. Maddie had a play date with her high energy buddies, Garbanzo and Artichoke.  Are you sure you want a third dog, Sandra?

Welcome to the world, Mason Casella

Congrats to grandparents, Maureen & Craig; mom and dad, Alexis & Patrick; and siblings, Tyler & Reagan.

Little Mason was born on 9-18-18 at exactly 7 lbs.  Good start for the future numbers dude.

Life is Good – Man and his Dog

After another long plane ride, Maddie and Rick were happy to get back to the boat.

Alton, Illinois

The numbers are growing! Forgive me if you are not listed, Loopers at Alton include – Back Row:  Exhale, SeaTrek, Antonia, Second Wave, and Sabbatical. Front Row: Let’s Go, Hayley Rose, Sea Jamm, Island Girl, Unfettered, Misty Pearl, and others (30 loopy loopers).

St. Louis

A shout out to Chelsea and Brad Bishop as we drifted past St. Louis. An early Happy Anniversary.

More Locks

Our final two locks on the Mississippi River were really easy.  This one is for you, Gypsy.  Nothing for the worry journal here :-).

Kimmswick, Missouri

An overnight at the legendary Hoppie’s Barge includes invaluable guidance from river experts Fern and her daughter (Get well soon Fern!).  It’s a MUST stop.

A Wall

This historic wall and gate, facing south, stands strong.

A closer look:  reveals the eastern wall is either gone, or invisible.

Given the enchanted tower, you can decide if there is magic involved at this site,

or, if the gate is tightly locked to keep the Zombies out (they won’t go around…)

Blue Owl – Home of the Levee High Apple Pie

If you ever make it to Kimmswick, Missouri, Blue Owl is infamous for its magnificent desserts.  Get there early, they only serve breakfast and lunch (close at 3). Here’s the website:  go ahead, take a look!

Diet Tomorrow (sorry, Maureen, we will keep trying)

Little Diversion, Missouri

After a 98 nautical mile run (114 statute miles), we stopped at a well known anchorage. Along the way, the banks of the Mississippi River fall colors began to show.

Celebrating the first day of fall.

Raining Cats and Dogs on the Ohio River

That’s right, we made it to the Ohio River!  Since March 1, 2018 we have traveled 3,751 nautical miles (4,321 statute miles).  Total gallons of fuel burned:  2,081.

Once again we are very thankful for our pilot house, with steady rain and wind.  We felt sincerely sorry for Unfettered, who is running from the fly bridge with only partial cover.  HOT drinks will be popular at the end of this day.

Meet Bear, boat dog from Unfettered

Say hello to Bear, Maddie’s newest friend, who we hope is staying dry in the cabin below.

Thanks, For the Dogs

For all of you who have dogs on your boats and in your homes, you know the extra work required to take care of the critters, and, you know the reward of never ending loyalty and affection. While they ask for very little, they never stop giving.

Next up:  Paducah, Kentucky

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 134 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 8 plus 2 dams

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois, Missouri

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [3 – April, May & Sept], Rick [4 – May, June, July, Sept] & Maddie [2 – May, Sept], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April]), St. Louis and St. Charles by car (thanks, B and B)

Exploring the waters of Mark Twain

It seemed romantic to follow the routes of Huckleberry Finn and Tom Sawyer, but with the river running higher than usual, it was not easy to dodge the mighty trees, swept down river by a strong current.

Visible sections of this tree were more than 50 feet in length, but, like an iceberg, you have no way of knowing what is lurking just below the surface.

The Illinois River

Beverly (Sea Trek), Bonnie (It’s Someday) and I agreed, this structure reminded us of a beloved Brothers Grimm Fairy Tale, Rapunzel.

May flies in September?!?

We celebrated Octoberfest in September, so perhaps we should not have been surprised when the may flies arrived out of season … Bonnie said the flies were wise, resting their weary wings, and hitching a little ride down the river.  The one who had to sweep the little carcasses off the boat wasn’t so altruistic about the invasion.

Grafton, Illinois

We all know Canadian Geese fly south for the winter, but did you ever wonder where the eagles go? Now you know, it’s Grafton, home of the wintering bald eagles.

The river did not disappoint as we spotted numerous bald eagles along the way.

Ciao for now, It’s Someday – we were sorry to break up the happy trio of boats.

Hey, Susan Merritt (Gypsy), when we were in Grafton, we found an amazing display of rocks.

The river was so high in Grafton – How High, you ask?? Well, no one was brave enough to test the bike trail to know for sure.

St. Charles aka Earth City

Thanks, Beverly and Bruce (Sea Trek) for the side trip to St. Charles, although we never found the chocolate covered bacon Beverly was craving, it was a beautiful little city.

Home of Daniel Boone

And the Lewis and Clark Expedition

St. Louis, returning to The Hill

And, we got to visit one of our favorite St. Louis restaurants again.

An early happy anniversary to Brad and Chelsea Bishop, a year ago October we ate at Zia’s the night before their St. Louis wedding. If you are EVER in the area, this restaurant is worth the stop.  Click here for their website. A warm shout out to Brenda and Mark – we love and miss you!

Alton, Illinois

We continued to travel with Sea Trek, docking in Alton for an extended respite.  The marina is lovely, with a refreshing cement pond, and LOTS of Loopers arriving daily.

As you can see, the Mississippi River bridge is spectacular at night.

Whistle Signal Tips

For all you loopers who are finally entering the river, here are the official instructions from Waterway Guide to help you communicate with the tugs/tows:

Next up?  Another Side trip to LA for a little work and a cherished visit with friends and family.  Meanwhile, Exhale is docked in Alton, Illinois, under the watch of Sea Trek – Thanks Bruce and  Beverly! 

This little frog is for Morgan and Brad

Happy New Year

L’shana tova.  May the new year be sweet, and may your lives be filled with health and happiness.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 132 plus 2 dams, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 6 plus 2 dams

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Surrounded by industrial operations, scrap metal and sewage plants, it was surprising to see lovely green hillsides …

Upon closer inspection, we realized they were massive land fills, with methane venting.

Little Calumet River Marine Services

We spent our first night on the river in a very small marina, surrounded by some of the nicest local boaters, celebrating life.

But the flame across from our dock was from another land fill, a very unsettling experience that may have caused a rough night’s sleep filled with strange dreams.

Joliet City Wall

We reunited with Sea Trek in Joliet, tying up to the City Wall together, along with It’s Someday.

Ottawa – Heritage Harbor

As a storm continued to build, we found refuge at Heritage Harbor in Ottawa.

Henry – Lock Walls

Yet another unique experience, we tied off to the rock walls of a former lock.

Power was found about 5 feet off the ground, in anticipation of flooding.

Electrical expert, Dale Morgan, cringed at this photo!

Loopy Loopers

After securing our boats to the rocks, we gathered at Henry’s Lakeside Tavern.

None of the Looper ladies were willing to contribute to the decor.

Five Looper Boats (10 people) closed the bar at Henry’s after a highly competitive game of pool.

Peoria – Illinois Valley “Ivy” Club

The invasion of loopers grew to more than a dozen boats at Peoria.

Havana – Tall Timbers

One of Rick’s Bucket List items is a visit to Havana.  Something about the romance of a certain spring holiday in 1957, his parents, on a beach, you get the idea. Although we have not made it to Cuba, yet; Havana, Illinois was a little slice of heaven.

Beardstown, Logsdon Tug Service – Rafting to a Barge

It was a unique experience, tying off to a barge for the night.  At Mile 88 we stopped at Logsdon, along with Sea Trek and It’s Someday.  

Although it was a little tricky getting on and off the boat, the guys were delighted to get a private tour of the engine room.  Yep, that’s a Cummins 1700hp – the tug has two of them. It’s just a little bigger than the 355hp in Exhale.

Slang from the tugs and barges

Most of the seasoned tug operators seem to talk with a gruff voice and a unique slang, that can be entertaining:

Meet up on the one whistle – when two crafts encounter one another, each staying in their far right lane of traffic

On the twos – when two crafts stay in the far left lane of traffic (yes, it seems backwards, like going up the down staircase)

This one goes ’bout twice across – a double width barge

Knock the rust off it – getting close enough to a navigational buoy that you could scrape the rusted paint off it.

Com on o’er it – come on over closer

Throw Down the Dam! We had heard the tugs say repeatedly, “gotta wait for the lock cause “they done throw down the dam” ???   The marina said the Peoria lock and dam was closed for maintenance, as the “wickets were down”, but you could continue south on the Rivers by going “over” the dam.  The fear of going over a dam turned into a hearty chuckle for all of us when we learned the “wickets” were gates that had been dropped into the water, making the dam virtually undetectable.

Some of the tug names are very difficult to pronounce.  These two were familiar.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 132 plus 1 dam, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44
• Illinois – Calumet and Illinois River: 6 plus 1 dam

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana, Illinois

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Holland, Michigan

It was great spending time with Jim and Susan Merritt, Meghan, Lexi and little Cooper. We were sad to part ways with Gypsy, she’s under repair – there was a water problem, discovered by Meghan who was looking for her chapstick when she found her shoes floating in the cabin … AND there was something about a good samaritan effort by Susan’s brother who bravely leaped on board a large sailboat that was drifting away from the neighboring dock in Frankfort while its absent minded captain was releasing a line from the shore. Unaware the boat was in gear, Chip fired up the little motor … and smashed into Gypsy, no good deed goes unpunished.

Misty Spider Webs in Holland

We awoke to heavy fog.  The kind where you can barely see more than a few feet.  You don’t realize how many spiders are on the boat until the webs are covered in mist.

Running in the Fog

There was a small window of opportunity to run the boat on smooth waters, but this time it was in dense fog.  While the fog is unsettling, with the right equipment it’s far more tolerable than rough waters.

Smooth Waters On the Lake, Visibility??

Visibility at 9:45 am : Still Zero.

Visibility at 11 am – Maybe a few feet

The fog lifted sometime after noon.  By 1 pm there was a small parade headed to South Haven, including Sea Trek (one of the 3 not shown), Exhale, and  Miss Hattie.

South Haven

Arriving in South Haven, we met Pirates in the Black River.

To celebrate our arrival, we joined the crew of Sea Trek, gold loopers, on their yacht. It’s always a treat to spend time with Bruce and Beverly (B and B).

When you board Sea Trek, the proper Vulcan greeting is “Live Long and Prosper”

Memories of Popeye the Sailor – Wilhelm Baum

Lenore (Miss Hattie) and I enjoyed the flowers in South Haven.

Michigan City, Indiana

The 6-hour run to Michigan City along side Miss Hattie was relatively smooth.  Anticipated inclement weather, the Labor Day weekend, and our new friends motivated us to stay in Michigan City for four nights. It was a delightful respite! While we were there, we said hello to the little Pilgrim.  Penny and Mats, we hope you are having a fabulous time visiting family in Sweden.

Bob told us, you know you are in Michigan City when you see the familiar stacks.

Opened in 1950, the Michigan City Generating Station is a coal and natural gas-fired power plant located on the shore of Lake Michigan in Michigan City, Indiana. It is operated by Northern Indiana Public Service Company, owned by NiSource.

A dear friend from Long Beach, CA once told me, “we have friends for a reason, friends for a season, and friends for life.”  We have now been on the water more than six months.  If you ask either of us what has been the best part of the journey – without hesitation the answer is the friends who have joined us, and, fellow boaters we have met along the way.

A warm thanks to our new life friends, Bob and Lenore Bigsby, Miss Hattie. We truly enjoyed traveling with you from Manistee, MI.  Thanks for introducing us to your boating community on the 800 dock of your home port, what a feast!  We look forward to seeing you in Florida very soon.

Parting with Sorrow, Legendary Leadership

This week we lost two great American heroes: the Queen of Soul, Aretha Louise Franklin (1942-2018), and Senator John Sidney McCain III (1936-2018).  Aretha and John taught us to demand RESPECT and fight for human dignity, without compromise.  Rest in Peace, although you are deeply missed already, your legend will live on. In the words of Meghan McCain, “Today we mourn the passing of American greatness, the real thing.  He was a great fire who burned bright. The America of John McCain is generous and welcoming and bold.  She’s resourceful, confident and secure.  She speaks quietly, because she’s strong.”

Next Up: Illinois River

By the end of today (Monday, September 3) we will waive goodbye to Lake Michigan. In Michigan we stopped in DeTour Village, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Ludington, Pentwater, Grand Haven, Holland (with a side trip to Saugatuck on the Vespa), and South Haven. Our first Indiana stop was in  Michigan City.

Next Guests – Not sure :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan, Indiana

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Born and raised in Long Beach, CA, Piper has been on the water most of her life.

Frankfort

The quaint little town of Frankfort was full of delightful surprises, well worth the stop!

We reunited with Gypsy for a delicious impromptu barbeque.  The best kind.

Another delightful surprise, a nice small world moment – Hello Carrie!

At the local grocery store, Rick realized he knew the lovely woman in front of him. Carrie Hessler-Radelet and her husband (Rick and Carrie met in California, of course), live in small town Frankfort during the summer.  Carrie’s father and two wonderful Michigan friends joined us on board Exhale for a relaxing glass of wine.

Manistee

The public docks are under renovation, after an aggressive storm surge. The marina building was spectacular, and the staff was delightful.

Crew Change – Introducing Matt & Piper

Matt and Piper Jackson joined us on Exhale in Manistee. By the way, we definitely missed you, Michele.

Piper and Maddie grew up together in California, and are very similar in age (Piper is 10).  Piper swims competitively, sails (solo) better than most men, and is a trained youth lifeguard.

Ludington

Matt, Piper, Capt. Rick and Maddie ran the boat from Manistee to Ludington (roughly 3.5 hours) while I got to drive Matt’s rental car along the country roads of Michigan.  Matt and Piper did a GREAT job without me on board :-)

Ludington is home to S.S. Badger, the last coal-fired passenger steamship in operation in the United States.  If you want to learn more click here. 

It’s also home to Brenda’s Harbor Cafe. Adnerb, is this part of your retirement plan?

Pentwater

Well versed in nautical lingo, from Ludington to Pentwater (roughly 2 hours) Piper adeptly set the lines, handled the fenders, and kept the captain well informed as we were docking.

Pentwater Yacht Club

Piper made herself very comfortable, hanging out at the yacht club.

Piper was the first to spot the familiar Long Beach Yacht Club burgee (Jacksons and grandparents Barry and Kathy May are longtime members).

And it was our first Burgee Exchange (Southwest Florida Yacht Club and PYC).  We miss you, Commodore Ron Austin!

Thanks for visiting, Matt and Piper

It was sad to see Matt and Piper drive away.  We heard she played the ukulele – pretty much nonstop – on their 4-hour drive to Chicago :-).  It turns out Piper is a VERY talented actress and musician, with an uncanny ability to recite LONG excerpts from Hamilton. It was very impressive.  We hope you come back again soon. Next time, bring mom and the grandparents!  

Pentwater to Grandhaven

After closely monitoring the weather for days, it appeared there was a break in the storm. Only after Peter and Rick rode out into the swells in a dinghy to check on the sea conditions, we agreed to leave the dock with Peter and Jeannie on Tortuga, with an expectation that the water could be a little rough, but knowing it would be worse the following day.

Departing Pentwater at 12:30 pm, unusually late for us, once we got away from the shore we had 42 miles of 2-3 foot following seas (think of it as a gentle push).  What a pleasant surprise.  Inspired by our discovery of calm waters, Gypsy and Miss Hattie braved the journey as well.  We arrived in Grand Haven around 7 pm, enough time to enjoy the sunset and a delightful evening cocktail with Lenore and Bob from Miss Hattie.

Grand Haven to Holland – No Photos, Please.

Let’s just get it out there, I wasn’t mad, I was just plain scared.  For me, the run from Grand Haven to Holland was my all-time worst 2 and a half hours on the water this year.  Rick said the waters might be a little rough, but we also knew it was a relatively short trip (only 12 miles). And, based on the previous day, I thought the waters would calm down, more or less. I was wrong. 

When the beam seas (water aggressively slamming you from the side of the boat) kicked in, the boat rocked enough that I put on a life jacket.  My mind was racing with fear, imagining how we might capsize.  When Rick realized the dog was shaking, and saw that tears were rolling down my face, he offered to go back.  Fear is irrational and hard to shake, but I trust Rick, and I knew the best answer was to proceed.  Of course, we all made it safe and sound, albeit a little rattled.

Holland

It was really exciting to visit De Zwaan – Dutch for the swan. The last windmill to leave the Netherlands, it’s still an active grain mill, grinding roughly 12,000 pounds of locally grown corn and wheat every year.  To learn more click here.  The miller is Ms. Alisa Crawford.

We enjoyed walking the grounds of Windmill Island Gardens, Holland MI.

Saugatuck

We left Exhale docked in Holland and took a short vespa ride (~ 8 miles) to reunite with Bruce and Beverly Peck, Sea Trek (they said hi, Craig!)

Vespa Ride

We don’t use the Vespa often enough.  Even in a light rain, what a great way to visit nearby communities, especially when there is no Uber or Lyft nearby!

Happy Birthday Alisha, Happy Anniversary Danielle and Sandra

Next Stops: Southeast Lake Michigan

Following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, we are slowly headed to the Illinois River. So far, in Michigan, we have stopped in DeTour Village, Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix, Leland, Frankfort, Manistee, Ludington, Pentwater, Grand Haven, and Holland (with a side trip to Saugatuck on the Vespa).  Next up: South Haven, or thereabouts.

Next Guests – Not sure :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via auto or plane):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

The magnificent splendor of the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island makes you feel as if you have stepped back, somewhere in time …

Blue Waters of Michigan

You asked – “how blue are the waters, really?”  Well, Susie Q – the waters are sooo blue you can see the marina boulders, more than 15 feet down!

St. Ignace

Mike & Sue Gillespie drove from Cleveland to northern Michigan, joining us in Upper Peninsula (called Yooper). On their first night aboard, the sunset at St. Ignace was breathtaking.

Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox

One of my favorite childhood stories was the tall tale of Paul Bunyan a giant lumberjack with superhuman strength. Big as a mountain and strong as a grizzly bear… his trusty companion was a legendary blue ox. His likeness is displayed in several statues across North America, including this one in Michigan.^[7][8]

There are multiple Paul Bunyan statues in Michigan, for more info click here.

Mackinac Island

You can only get to Mackinac (pronounced Mac-in-aw) by water or air.  When you arrive you feel like you stepped back in time.

Thanks for the private cruise from St. Ignace to Mackinaw aboard Gypsy!

Grand Hotel

If you are looking for a decadent wedding destination: Grand Hotel (click here)

We will never forget the spectacular views from a rocking chair overlooking the Straits of Mackinac, from the world’s longest porch.

Somewhere in Time

Grand Hotel is rich in history, a place where time moves slowly.  The perfect setting for a favorite romantic classic starring Christopher Reeve and Jane Seymour, “Somewhere in Time”. 

Happy Anniversary Mike & Sue – 33 and still counting.

To celebrate – we watched Somewhere in Time (of course you can buy the movie in the gift shop!!).  Actually, Sue and I watched the movie, Rick and Mike went to bed early.

Mackinac Straits Bridge

Petoskey

It was a privilege to spend time with Tom & Nancy Rea (captains of Meanders), who live in Petoskey. Thanks again for introducing us to Charlevoix, where we joined Don & Barb Cavin (Cavara) for dinner, celebrating Barb’s birthday.

Charlevoix

Although mushroom house architecture didn’t really “catch on”, it is a fun vacation concept. If you are looking for a unique rental opportunity, click here. Over the course of his fifty-year career, Architect Earl Young designed twenty-six residential houses and four commercial properties. His works are made mostly of stone, using limestone, fieldstone, and boulders that he found throughout Northern Michigan

Leland

Leland, MI is a quaint little town reknowned for it’s smoked fish.

Next Stops: More of Lake Michigan

Exhale will continue to traverse south, following the eastern shore of Lake Michigan, heading to the Illinois River. So far we have stopped in Mackinac Island, St. Ignace, Petoskey, Charlevoix and Leland.  Next up: Frankfort and Manistee. After that, only Mother Nature really knows.

Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

We finished the North Channel this week with our buddy boat, Gypsy.  Still following the itinerary from Robin (Queen’s Cove Marina), together we found a secluded anchorage in the Benjamins.

Anchored in the Benjamins – Crocker Island

Anchoring and Rafting Off

Once we agreed on a gunk hole (anchoring spot) Exhale dropped her anchor. With fenders in place, Gypsy scooted in close, and tied off.

It seems like we are a little close to the rocks, right?!?  But the Captain was confident in water deeper than 10 feet and no wave action.

The Merritts suggested we leave the Mother Ship (Exhale) to “hold our place” at the rocks, and took the Super Shuttle (Gypsy) to tour the Benjamins, anchor out, and eat a little picnic lunch.  What a treat!

Weathered in – or not?

The rain came and went.  Just another free boat wash.

Gore Bay

This sleepy little town is in Lake Huron’s north channel. Quick Facts from Wikipedia: Population 816.  Average age, 56. 

We joined up with Houlegan, again in Gore Bay, home of the Split Rail Brewery. The marine forecast was thunder, lightning, and choppy waters. The captains agreed it was likely we would be in Gore Bay for two or more days, until the weather cleared.

We heard the rain and thunder in the darkest hours of the evening. Awoken to a quiet calm around 6 am, Captain Rick checked the forecast again.  Waves of three to four – inches.  What?!?  Rise and shine everyone, Gypsy and Exhale are going, going, going!

Mother Nature cut us some slack as we enjoyed 9 solid hours of smooth waters. Unsure how long the weather would hold, we skipped Meldrum (the “planned” final stop in Canada), opting to clear US Customs a day early.

Smooth Waters

The water was soooo smooth the Captain and his dog took a little snooze.

What a view!  Perfect weather, perfect water.

Crossing the Invisible Line – did you see that?

For all the football fans out there, we thought you might appreciate a super-imposed 10-yard line, I mean border crossing line, as Gypsy and Exhale said goodbye to Canada and hello to USA.

Exhale was in Canada for sixty days.  The time seemed to pass very quickly. In many ways it reminds me of the summers in Alaska, where you can spend the season in pristine country, with a new adventure everyday, knowing there is sooooo much more to explore. Captain and crew (including short-term swabbies) agreed, the journey was splendiferous – definitely worth repeating.  Au revoir beautiful Canada, until we meet again!

Clearing Customs – Embracing Technology

Thanks to the new Reporting Off-shore Arrival Mobile app, clearing customs was fast, and smooth. Launched in 2018, the ROAM app allows small boaters the flexibility of reporting their arrival into the U.S. from any location! Apple and Android friendly, enter your passport and travel data in the app, submit, and then “video-chat” via your smart phone or iPad with a friendly customs agent.  It was super easy.  To learn more click here. 

De Tour Village, Michigan

We officially re-entered the US with Gypsy at this gorgeous new marina.  For those of you still looping on the water, we strongly recommend this port of entry.  It’s a friendly town, with good local food (hooray for US Beef) within easy walking distance.

You were right, Gonzo, the waters of Michigan are really blue! Now I know why the University of Michigan chant is “Go, Blue!” If you want to learn more about the winning Wolverines, click here.  Go Blue!

 

Next Stop:

Lake Michigan – Grandpa Says, “Go Blue!”

Mike & Sue Gillespie – see you in Mackinac Island.  Next Guests – Matt & Piper Jackson :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S (March 1- June 10). Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont. (August 10 – tbd): Michigan

Canada Provinces (June 10 – August 9): Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

Windswept trees, with branches permanently pointing south, stand as a reminder that weather conditions can be harsh. A stark contrast to the calm, blue waters.

Wright’s Marina

Wright’s Marina took great pride in their landscaping.

Parry Sound Fire

The fires in Ontario covered 11,000 hectares (a metric unit of square measure, equal to 100 ares (2.471 acres or 10,000 square meters).  We planned our route carefully to avoid the fires, omitting stops in the Bustards, among others.

Beaverstone Bay – Collins Inlet

Along with Gypsy, we found a perfect anchorage in Collins inlet, which included another delicious meal prepared by Rick and Jim on the boat.  Yummy Fresh Fish!

Red Sky at Night, Sailors Delight

The rest of the saying goes, “red sky at morning, sailors take warning.”

The distant fires caused a spectacular sunset

Our careful planning was foiled by Mother Nature, again. The winds shifted while we were sleeping, and we awoke to the smell of heavy smoke.  Don’t be fooled by this photo, the boat was NOT surrounded by fog.  Photo by Gypsy

Killarney

Killarney was a popular refuge from the fires, including a rendezvous of boaters from Gross Point Yacht Club, that made Exhale look like a toy boat.

What a magical little place to watch float planes come and go.  We loved the strategically placed red chairs at the end of every finger pier – a great little place to enjoy a nice glass of wine on the dock

Dinner with Friends

Possibly one of the best meals we have eaten on this journey was at the Mountain Lodge in Killarney.  Thanks, Gypsy captains Susan and Jim Merritt, for an amazing evening.

Shelter in a a Storm

While we were out and about, there was yet another flash thunder storm.  It turns out, Maddie is very resourceful when it comes to seeking shelter. She successfully moved her little bed from the side cabin into the hallway – logically the most protected area of the boat!

A fabulous dinghy ride

Exhale spent a second night in Killarney, a three-mile dinghy ride from Covered Portage, where Gypsy was anchored out.

Otters, ooooh so cute …

We watched a pair of happy-go-lucky otters playing in the water nearby, wishing they would get close enough for a clear photo.  An ominous growling noise meant not one, but, two otters were climbing onto our dingy.  When one of them slid onto Gypsy’s swim platform, bearing snarling teeth, my thought was “danger, danger, Will Robinson.”  Well, at least the fat critter brought his own dinner.

Baie Fine (Gaelic translation “a fine bay”) 

Traveling with Gyspy, we anchored out at Baie Fine, then hiked back to Topaz Lake. Thanks for pushing us Jim and Susan, it was well worth the climb.

Rick finally tried out the homemade bobber action, to neatly mark the location of our anchor.

Anchoring Challenges

Anchoring in Florida is predictable – sand and more sand.  In Canada, sometimes it’s mud, sometimes it’s rocks, and sometimes, well, it’s something else.  As we pulled up the anchor, look what came with it!

Little Current

Our visit to the marina at Little Current coincided with the annual Haw-eater Festival, highlights included antique cars (this GTO is for my Bear-Bear) and a parade that lasted roughly 12 minutes, well, maybe slightly longer.  My favorite was the excuse to sample yet another delicious craft beer. Loved this Split Rail Hawberry Ale (yep, another red).

Hello, again, Hawaiian Shirts

Reunited with Houlegan, again, we watched the fireworks on Civics Day.

Found: One Elusive Unicorn.  This is for Rick.

ANOTHER MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: Thanks to those of you who reached out this week (especially Craig). You are right, the blog postings have been rather irregular.  As we journeyed the north channel of Georgian Bay we were completely out of range, for multiple days. Ah, yes, it is good to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Finishing up the North Channel, Clearing Customs, then on to Michigan – Go Blue!

See you real soon, Mike & Susie :-)

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])

With the repairs all finished, and fresh provisions, “it’s good to be back on the boat”, said Maddie.

Thank you, one and all, at Queen’s Cove Marina in Victoria Harbour, Ontario for the exceptional service.  We were very excited to see Exhale gently lowered back into the water! Without a doubt, Robin and her team are beyond compare. Thanks, Robin, for the amazing lesson on the navigational routes along the Georgian Bay. We now have an exciting route mapped out for the northern channel – subject to weather, of course.

Penetanguishene with Houlegan, again.

It was a pleasure to begin our Georgian Bay travels with our good friends, Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder, Houlegan, again.  Our first stop is known locally as “P’tang” (cuz Penetanguishene is waaay too hard to say). Caught in very heavy rains, we found refuge at the historic Discovery Harbour.  Fun times!

Discovery Harbour

When it rains, find a museum, or a pub, or both.  We opted for Discovery Harbour.  We got drenched by the rain, but it was in the midst of good company.

Discovery Harbour traces its roots back to the original British naval and military base in Penetanguishene, built to safeguard access to Upper Canada after the War of 1812. To learn more click here.

While Houlegan, again is on a brief solo expedition via the southern route of Georgian Bay (those guys are rebels, you know), we moved on to the northern route.

Henry’s Fish Camp

A popular spot in Georgian Bay, we found over a dozen looper boats at Henry’s.

At Henry’s Fish Camp we docked again with Gypsy. Fellow loopers Miss Norma, Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away joined us for picnic table ‘tails.

Parry Sound

The Georgian Bay is absolutely spectacular!  Bucket List Item in Progress.

In Parry Sound we docked with Viridian, Gypsy Spirit and Dash Away.

Canada Model A’s on Tour

What a treat to see twenty-six Model A’s parked at our dock!

Anchored out in Tiny

Traveling with Gypsy, we anchored out in Hopewell Bay (did we mention, Jim Merritt took a very brief break in Queen’s Cove for a root canal – oooowwww)

Small Craft Advisory

When the weather gets rough – stop, stop, stop.  Thanks to Captain Rick and Jim, they did not hesitate to find a safe little cove for us to take refuge when the water got really choppy.  With a little help from the Nebo app, we found more loopers in the cove (hello again Viridian and Dash Away).  A spontaneous dinner aboard Gypsy was an unexpected bonus.

Hang Dog – Alexander Bay

Another “first experience”. In a small protected cove, Exhale dropped her anchor, then Gypsy rafted off (tied herself to Exhale). The stern of the boat was snuggly secured to a tree about 150 feet away.  With zero risk of swinging towards the rocks, we all enjoyed a VERY peaceful evening!

Signs along the way – “Safe Passage”, or, “Rum found here”

Brilliant advertising for the local pub at the next port? You decide.

A MESSAGE TO OUR FAITHFUL READERS: We are sorry the blog postings have been rather irregular.  Unfortunately, (or perhaps we mean fortunately), cellular service and wi-fi connections continue to be hit or miss on this great boat trip. Although a tremendous inconvenience and source of frustration when we need to meet a deadline for WORK, most of the time we are just forced to Exhale :-)

Next Stop:

Enjoying Georgian Bay, with no pre-scheduled stops.

Where Have We Been So Far? Thanks for asking :-)

Total Locks completed = 126, includes:

• Florida – Lake Okeechobee area: 7
• Virginia – Great Dismal Swamp: 2
• New York – Troy & Champlain Canal: 12
• CANADA – Chambly Canal/Quebec: 9
• CANADA – Great Lakes St. Lawrence Seaway: 5
• CANADA – Rideau Canal/Ontario: 47
• CANADA – Trent-Severn Waterway: 44

States and Provinces traversed on the water, commencing March 1, 2018:

U.S. Florida, Georgia, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Delaware, New Jersey, New York, Vermont.  Canada: Quebec, Ontario.

Side trips (via land or air):

Los Angeles (MS [2 – April and May], Rick [3 – May, June and July] & Maddie [May], Cleveland (RMG, MS & Maddie [2- April and July], Craig [April])