Annapolis – Exhale on the Water

Oh, Maryland

Her state flower is beautiful!

Maryland State Flower – Black Eyed Susan

With a total area of 12,407 square miles, Maryland is the ninth-smallest state by land area.

For Tyler: Ohio is almost 4 times the size of Maryland, at 44,826 square miles. Let’s also compare Maryland to my home state, Alaska, which measures in at 665,384 square miles or 54 times bigger than Maryland! How does your home state measure up? Click here

Annapolis Regatta

Annapolis is well known for Spectacular Sailboats! These are for Gail B.

Wye River, Maryland

Thank you again to Bob and Susan Jellen for introducing us to their oasis, Wye River. We anchored out near their home with Tonto’s Reward; it was their first big journey on their new boat.

In the early morning we were surrounded by fog, the perfect fishing conditions for this hearty waterman.

SFYC minyan! Orchestrated by the Jellens, we had a fabulous dinner at the Fisherman’s Inn in Kent Narrows.

10 friends from Southwest Florida Yacht Club (SFYC) gathered together for dinner – clockwise from the bottom – Susan Jellen, Laura Magers, Patty Letzler, Patrick Magers, David Bernstein, Bob Jellen, Tom Letzler, Rick Ginsburg, Mary S, and Gail Bernstein.

A proper Maryland Crab Feast

Bob and Susan Jellen generously included all 10 of us in their annual crab feast at their home on Wye River. Buttercup appeared to be the guest of honor – spoiled with the best chair in the house.

We relaxed poolside at the Jellen’s – it was time for the BIG bottles of wine :-)

Left to right, poolside gathering – Bob Jellen, Susan Jellen, Patrick and Laura Magers, Patty and Tom Letzler.

Susan shared her technique to crack and pick whole crabs. It doesn’t get any fresher than this!

Not pictured: Fresh Shrimp, Grilled Alaskan Reindeer Sausage (provided by Capt. Rick – from Costco in Anchorage, AK, thanks Finny), and LOTS of paper towels.

Really Sorry, the video of Susan was too big to upload, although not as fun, here’s a page from the Annapolis tourist guide with similar instructions (thanks Jamie and David).

Old Bay is the BEST seasoning on crabs and shrimp. Note to novice pickers – although it’s very, very messy, it’s sooo worth it!

After a perfect evening of amazing food and great friends here’s a view of the Queenstown Clouds – reflecting on the water at our Wye River anchorage.

From the anchorage back to the Jellen’s home, time for a Dinghy Ride on Inhale with the Bernsteins. Buttercup is sitting pretty!

Wye River Lighthouse – sharing the beauty.

Visitors on Board – Hendry Celebration

We went back to Annapolis, again. This time it was to meet up with Jamie, David, and grandson Tyler who drove from Cleveland, Ohio to Annapolis to climb on board for a long weekend. Tyler is 9 years old. Grandpa Rick let him steer the boat with his big feet.

In St. Michael’s those big feet found the original Watermen Boots, as well as Grandpa Rick’s favorite reclining chair.

Tyler also found the Penguin Mascot – nothing like a fluffy pirate companion.

Tyler and David discovered a blue crab near the boat, which David swooped up in a net.

A few days later they caught two more. For the trained eye, yes, the top crab is a female! All of the crabs were to puny to cook and eat. Catch and Release.

Tyler really liked the breeze on the fly bridge – it felt like he could fly.

Along the water way we spotted Navy Yard Patrol 686. Used for midshipmen’s training, this vessel was outfitted for oceanographic research.

More Maryland: Closing with an easy listening moment for Ray Houle – written and performed by Vonda Shepard for Ally McBeal – video “Maryland” Take the time to listen, it’s sweet.

Celebrating Milestones – Birthdays: August 19, Alisha Silverstein and Julia Goral; Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson; August 24, Patrick Magers.

Next Up: Exhale is docked in Annapolis until August 24. If you are in the neighborhood, please visit!!

Cruising the Chesapeake

Dreary weather is brightened by an unexpected gift of flowers; the very best! Thanks, Capt. Rick

Bear, Delaware; Summit North Marina

You might think it’s a blurry photo, but really it was just another foggy day. It seems we have had more than our fair share lately. But not to complain too much, we dodged another tropical storm.

Chesapeake City, Maryland

We passed by Chesapeake City with fond memories of our visit in 2018 with Donna Wallace.

Boaters Tip: If you opt to tie up at the Restaurant you will be perfectly positioned for a fabulous sunset. Be aware when you depart, debris in the form of heavy logs tends to collect near your props, so let the current help float you away, without thrusters, if possible.

Elk River

As we traveled the Elk River, we found plenty of commercial traffic, looks like holiday shopping has begun.

Annapolis, Maryland

With many options for overnight stays in Annapolis, the mooring ball field is an easy water taxi from the city center. There are also many marinas nearby. We have tried several.

Dinner at Chez Gromurph

My favorite part of Annapolis is visiting Sandy Grosvenor, owner of NP42 Road Trip. First, a warm hello to Grogu and IronBear

Sandy’s crab cakes are beyond delicious. The only thing better is to share them with new friends!

Pictured: Bill Simon, David B, Gail B., Hostess Sandy Grosvenor, Capt. Rick, Jim Quinn, Joanie Simon, and Camille Daniels.

VERY small boating world – Camille is the past Commodore of Long Beach Yacht Club, home of of our dear friends, Matt and Michele Jackson.

Dating back to 1929, LBYC in CA is not to be confused with the one on the Mississippi Gulf Coast. Best of luck on the remodel efforts Camille! The proposed improvements to the pool and club house look fantastic! We look forward to visiting you next time we are back in CA.

Solomons, Maryland; Spring Cove Marina

Boater’s Tip – after Labor Day the pool closes and the restaurant only operates on the weekend, BUT this quiet little marina is still a great location. Ask for the loaner car!

Hatteras lighthouse

Another full moon

DeltaVille, VA

… the waiting spot for pizza deliveries.

Norfolk, VA; Waterside Marina

It was good to return to this accessible marina – within easy walking distance of everything downtown Norfolk.

Glass Light Hotel & Gallery

If you take a walk around downtown Norfolk, make the time to enjoy this hotel and gallery. Built in 1912, the magnificent 13-story building was once the home of the Royster Guano Fertilizer Company.

Since guano is “the excrement of seabirds and bats” the company name might conjure up a stinky operation for some of our followers. If you are not familiar with its odor, a genteel description suggests, “bat guano has a musty smell, with a “hint” of ammonia.” I disagree.

For a short while, I lived in Cave Junction, Oregon, aka “Gateway to the Oregon Caves”. Perhaps you have seen (or stayed in!) the treehouses. This is for Carly!

Notably, with a population of less than 2,000 there are significantly more bats than human residents. After visiting the infamous bat-filled caves it is my opinion the smell of guano is pungent, acrid, and foul. Rather troubling, Guano contains nitrates that can be used to make explosives.

Something good about bats – they eat mosquitos and can consume up to 3,000 insects in one night. And, bats are the only mammal that can truly fly.

Fast forward to modern times – the former Royster Guano Fertilizer Company building changed hands a few times, over the course of 100 plus years, until it was majestically restored and transformed in 2019.

Now known as the Glass Light Hotel & Gallery (affiliated with the Marriott), it hosts the art collection of Doug and Pat Perry, which displays over 65 glass pieces on two floors.

Hello bunny!

Crafted by Dutch artist Peter Bremers, this whimsical six-foot glass bunny is a focal piece, welcoming trendy bar patrons who can of course order a super fancy “artisanal cocktail”.

Coinjock, North Carolina

Nothing special here, although we saw Life of Pi, from Kenai, AK (sorry, no pic).

Celebrating Milestones.

Birthdays: October 1, Sam Straley; October 4, Mayor Scotty Harvey

Coming Up: Alligator River Fried Chicken!

Yellow as Lemons

Alligator River, North Carolina

While Tonto’s Reward was leapfrogging ahead of us to Burr in Annapolis, we meandered to Alligator River with NP43 owners, Lisa and Greg Palmer.

Lisa from Beach Breeze

Be sure to walk into the marina office/gas station; order the fried chicken early, before the cook goes home!

Coinjock, North Carolina

For the first time, ever, we secured a section of the wall at Coinjock. The prime rib was exactly as expected – delicious. Because it was Mother’s Day the crowd was overwhelming.

Boaters Tip: Reservations require a party of 6 or more, so make new friends with the boats tied up on the wall and enjoy. We recommend the prime rib, just ask for a smaller cut! We will spare you the photo of the consumed cow meat.

Tidewater Marina, Portsmouth, VA

Boaters Tip: Believe the reviews on DockWa. The staff at Tidewater Marina is great! BUT, when you read “the marina is under construction”, it’s more than just a small inconvenience. If you have a critter you can expect a LONG detour, visualize an obstacle course through a construction zone on floating docks that rock and roll, for fun – add a little pouring rain. Buttercup was not impressed.

For now, Waterside Marina – across the water in Norfolk, VA – is much better.

Portsmouth, VA

When you walk about the historic district of Portsmouth you will find stunning examples of buildings from the 1800’s, rich in character and color. Zoom in to see the Narwhal carving over the grand porch, to the left side of the magnificent entry steps!

Before the civil war, Portsmouth had dreams of becoming one of the largest deep-water ports. So, what happened?

Are you ready, Commodore Greg?

In June of 1855, the Benjamin Franklin – a stunning 183-foot steamship from the West Indies – left St. Thomas enroute to New York. The Franklin unexpectedly detoured toward Portsmouth for repairs when she became so leaky that the passengers (not crew) were desperately working the bilge pumps to keep her afloat. Its boilers were sputtering, and a sailing mast needed reinforcement. The condition of the ship was shocking to the affluent passengers, since she was only 4 years old. Tragically, the shipbuilders cut LOTS of corners in her design and craftsmanship.

Two days after the ship arrived, a body washed up at the fort. Reportedly, “His hands were as yellow as lemons.”

Yellow Fever quickly rampaged Portsmouth and Norfolk, ultimately killing nearly one-third of the population. To read the full article, “The Fever,” Originally Published July 10-23, 2005, click here: https://www.portsmouthva.gov/513/The-Fever

Thanks to science and effective vaccines, Yellow Fever is now uncommon in the US. However, for International Travelers, it is still a concern. So, how does one get Yellow Fever? It is transmitted to people through the bite of infected mosquitoes, who got it from infected primates (human or animal) and then transmit the virus to other warm-blooded humans or animals.

Visualize an infected needle that is re-used, over and over again. Each time the mosquito pokes you and sucks out your blood, it left the virus behind. No wonder Capt. Rick HATES needles!

Here are a few questions you might have pondered about mosquitoes.

NON-READERS, it’s okay if you skip ahead to the next set of photos:

Do all mosquitos suck blood? No, the male is a strict vegetarian. On the other hand, females are like vampires, biting their victim repeatedly.

What is the life span of a mosquito? On average, females live 42-56 days, while males generally live for about 10 days. However, with a steady supply of blood, a female mosquito can live up to 5 months. Found dead on Exhale, without any report of bites, this mosquito was probably a harmless male.

How fast do they multiply? Once full of enough blood (either human or another warm-blooded animal), the mosquito will rest for two to three days before laying her eggs, generally about 100 at a time! Roughly 14 days later, the cycle repeats.

Where do mosquitoes thrive? Just a small amount of water; dog bowls, fountains, tires, barrels, vases and any other container storing water makes for a great “nursery.” Eggs are very hardy; they stick to the walls of a container like glue and can survive drying out for up to 8 months— even over the winter.

Stinky Feet attract mosquitoes – that’s also why they often bite your ankles! We have read that mosquitoes hate the smell of lavender, citronella, clove, peppermint, basil, cedarwood, eucalyptus, peppermint, lemongrass and rosemary.

Boater’s beware: The mosquito’s favorite mode of transit is by boat. The bigger, the better, preferably with lots of smelly bilge water! Another great reason to regularly check and clean that bilge.

That’s enough about mosquitoes.

Submarine Sighting!

Shortly after we departed Portsmouth we were surprised to see the AIS reporting a submarine, we kept a respectable distance.

Special Message for Beach Breeze: “one ping”

Spring Cove, Maryland

One of our favorite respites, Spring Cove is a great spot for Thai Food. We have tried two local favorites: one tiny spot is within walking distance of the marina; the second is a short drive over the bridge, to a more spacious location. Don’t be discouraged by the sad little strip mall near West Marine– the service is delightful, and the meals are delicious. Both Sawatdee Thai Restaurants are the same owner!

Drunken Noodle with Beef, Capt. Rick’s favorite

Spring Cove is also the home of Zimmerman Marine. It was nice to see you, Steve!

Annapolis Mooring Field, Maryland

We re-connected with Tonto’s reward in Annapolis, where Buttercup had her very first doggy restaurant experience at the Federal House. She was very happy with the Sweet Potato Fries; the server disclosed it’s the same fries they serve humans, minus the salt, plus the doggy bowl. She also whispered “the price is only $3 for the pupsters!” Generously, Buttercup shared.

A shout out to Tim and June, Subject to Change. It’s still a fun place to hang out, although we miss Maddie and Maggie.

Buttercup patiently waiting for her fries.

Annapolis Reunion – Iron Bear!!

The best part of Annapolis is connecting with Sandy! Gail and David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward, and Exhale were private guests for her “soft opening” . Sandy’s new kitchen is FANCY.

Top of the line appliances talk to you!

Her crab cakes are yum-i-licious as always. Sandy said “Hello” to Ray and Caryl.

Sandy – we hope you and Iron Bear will join us in Baddeck, Nova Scotia where Alexander Graham Bell adventures await!

Milestones:

May 25 Anniversary: Gail and David Bernstein, 49 years!

Birthday: mijo, Zach Silverstein, celebrating 42

Next up: Anchoring out, followed by Delaware City, followed by South Jersey

Boomerangs

Traveling south, the New York skyline was breathtaking under a blue sky.

Like a boomerang, Ray Houle and Caryl Moulder have returned!

Platinum Loopers Ray Houle (Sideways) and
Caryl Moulder with Maddie

You may recall we began the Maine Event with Craig and Maureen on board, connecting with Ray and Caryl on the waters of the Caloosahatchee River on our very first day.

First a little boat name history. At one time Caryl and Ray had a Nova called Houlegan. When we met, their Mainship was named “Houlegan, again.” Now they have a Rosborough, called Lit’l Houlegan. Thankfully, the person who customizes their embroidered shirts and hats manages to keep it all perfectly straight.

Brick, New Jersey

To our delight, they trailered their boat from Cape Coral, Florida then launched her at the home of renowned looper authors George and Pat Hospodar, giving us the chance to rendezvous in Brick, NJ.

Curious about Boomerangs?

New resource: Wonderopolis.org, check it out! Curious folks might wonder, 1) do boomerangs always come back, 2) what are they used for, and 3) how old are they?

Other folks, might skip this section and move on down to the photos.

First, you have to throw it correctly for it to return. What do you call a boomerang that doesn’t come back? A stick. Primary school humor.

Second, the natives of Australia used the boomerang to hunt animals in trees and bushes. Now the most popular use is sports leisure.

Finally, when were boomerangs first used? Dating back over 10,000 years; originally the Aussie’s carved the hunting tool from bone or wood.

Bonus factoid, Guinness world record for longest boomerang throw is 1,401.5 feet. Held by an Aussie of course.

Brick, New Jersey

Back to our story. It was so much fun connecting with snowbirds George and Pat for a delightful evening of music and good food in their lovely home.

Dessert included cannoli and chips, thanks to Joey P. It was decadent.

Manasquan River

Tied to the fuel dock we had the perfect vantage point of the official fish scales. This is a Sushi Grade Blue Fin Tuna, 189 lbs.

The Largest Bluefin Tuna Ever Caught: 12 feet, 1,496 lbs., caught off Nova Scotia in 1979. Also impressive – the bluefin can swim 25 miles per hour, that’s 3 times the regular speed of Exhale.

Full Moon shining bright 8:24 pm, Manasquan River

Red Sky in the Morning – it was 6:35 am when we left the dock.

Havre de Grace

The red sky did not lie. It rained heavily in Havre de Grace. Thanks again to Ray and Caryl who made this soggy stop delightful.

Annapolis

With Ray and Caryl on board we ventured to Annapolis, staying at one of the nicest marinas on this journey.

Docked next to us was Noel. The family on board included 5-year-old James, and his 7-year-old brother, Troy William. Both were extremely articulate, capable young fishermen.

James could be found fishing at the end of the dock by 7:30 am, with a life jacket over his dinosaur pajamas. Clever layering since the pjs look pretty warm.

Annapolis meant a lot of boat cleaning, in preparation for the Baltimore boat show.

Capt. Sideways, cleaning at the waterline

Thanks Ray for the boat scrub

Sandy – Best Blue Crab Cakes!

So what was the best part of Annapolis? Visiting with Sandy!!

Yes, this is the same Sandy who was on board Tonto’s Reward in Maine! She is also a beloved North Pacific owner, Road Trip is a rare 42.

She promised if we came to her home in Annapolis she would make us crab cakes. Let the record show her cakes were the best we had in Maryland, bar none. Grilled to perfection. Generous lumps of crab, her secret ingredient was fresh basil. Sooo delicious. Sandy really spoiled us!

Crab cakes, fresh corn, asparagus (for David B)
and london broil. courtesy of Chef Sandy.

Oh and Thanks for introducing us to OIB, the original iron bear.

The next morning the boys were fishing again

On the topic of crabs, thanks, Capt Rick, for passing on your cherished crab trap – those boys will put it to good use! We were touched when the handwritten notes were delivered to Exhale; these boys have exceptional parents.

Baltimore – Here We Come

Next Up – Baltimore Trawler Fest sponsored by Passage Maker – come visit! We will be in Baltimore from Sunday September 26 through Sunday October 3!! Slip A-31

Milestones: Birthdays – Bruce Peck, September 23; Lenore Bigsby, Sept 24; David Floyd (aka #8), Sept 27; Roger Berardinis;

The fixer

Capt. Rick loves projects, and he keeps the engine room pristine clean (you can never have too many paper towels, right Sideways!?). Thankfully Capt. Rick has a keen ability to diagnose and fix almost anything – including the air conditioner sensor. The task of putting everything neatly back into the cupboard was a bigger challenge.

Plans? We don’t need no stinking plans!

It is no surprise that before we commenced our planned adventures on the Great Loop (~ 9-month voyage in 2018) both the schedule and the route were carefully charted. Ah yes, all you experienced boaters, you can hear the roar of laughter.

IF you stick to a schedule, you find yourself in rough waters. Simply stated, a rigid schedule is dangerous. For us, the reality of the ever changing water conditions, and a credible threat by the crew to jump ship, taught Rick to relax his planning mode a little (I said a little).

Three years after completing the Great Loop, the journey to Maine is “subject to change”. A loose schedule makes sense, EXCEPT when you face a national holiday. Memorial Day weekend is the official launch of summer boating everywhere. Translation: Good luck securing a last minute reservation at a marina, and forget about finding a quiet spot to anchor.

Giving Thanks to Mother Nature!

A nasty storm did us a favor, causing fair weather boaters to cancel their holiday plans, and opening up space at a well-protected marina, a respite from the storm.

Windmill Point, Virginia – May 29 (Saturday) and May 30 (Sunday)

The marina was “sold out” for the weekend. Sincere thanks to the harbor master who put Exhale on the wait list; he said only a handful of boats would arrive before the storm. Tied securely we stayed for two nights, pounded by the rain.

Spring Cove Marina, Solomon’s Island, Maryland – May 31, 2021

With the rain behind us, we traveled north to the beautiful Solomon’s Island.

Hello Annapolis, Maryland! – June 1 and June 2

Two days in Annapolis, rain free. Can you believe it Tim & June? Tied to a mooring ball (at $35 per night), we reunited with Tonto’s Reward (thanks for slowing down, Bert and EJ). Treble in Paradise arrived on June 2.

Annapolis architecture is divine, with well-preserved structures dating back nearly 400 years. Home to the US Naval Academy and St. John’s College, constructed in 1696, the area is extremely walkable with LOTS of local shops and restaurants. And it’s very dog friendly!

Celebrating June Pride

Annapolis City Center bronze statues – “Alex Haley, shares stories with a diverse group of children.”

“We must be in this place as one village. It is not enough that we learn to live together, we must learn to respect and love each other.” Mandinka Elder, Roots

Still Pond anchorage, Maryland – June 3, 2021

Anchored out with Tonto, we found a lovely gunk hole. What’s a gunk hole you ask?

Wikipedia says: Gunkholing is a boating term referring to a type of cruising in shallow or shoal water, meandering from place to place, spending the nights in coves. The term refers to the gunk, or mud, typical of the creeks, coves, marshes, sloughs, and rivers that are referred to as gunkholes.

Maddie takes her time on a little beach walk with the boys.

Delaware City, Delaware – June 4, 2021

The marina in Delaware City was a bit remote. Although it was slow to get an Uber or Lyft driver, there were plenty of bikes.

With great effort, the 3 musketeers are together again. Treble in Paradise, Exhale and Tonto’s Reward docked in tandem.

Thanks Treble for speeding up.

Milestones: Craig Adford, Amanda Saylor, Mark Marlow and Skyllar June bug, all on June 1; Sue Gillespie, June 2 and Lorrie Swink, June 3.

Congrats to #DougAndDanaAndABoat! The NP4906 – original Exhale, and former Mimi’s Oasis (Hello to Grant and Nancy Jonsson) – was officially named Tumbleweed; she’s “Back in the Saddle Again” :-). Looking forward to our reunion Doug and Dana!

Next Stop: Cape May – South Jersey Marina