Exhale on the Water

New York, New York

We crossed into Maine some time ago; now we are in New York, again. That means this post will cover a lot of territory.

So, pour a cup of coffee, Ann Johnston, or a glass of wine, and let’s get caught up.

Dysart’s Southwest Harbor, Maine

Thanks to Jim and Susan Merritt, Exhale was scrubbed from top to bottom, just in time to say Hello to Ray and Caryl! Buttercup loves it when the cookie man is in the house.

Capt. Rick, Buttercup, Gail B, Caryl M, Jim M, Ray “Sideways”, and Susan Merritt

Reuniting with our 2018 Looper buddies, we intentionally overlapped our guests. Thanks to Gail and David B, Sideways was upgraded to premier class on the first night, spoiled in a cabin on Tonto’s Reward.

Visiting with two Hollywood Legends

An Elvis Co-star – It was a privilege to see Joan Freeman again. Look her up, she was an amazing star! She and her husband, Bruce Kessler were enjoying their summer in Maine.

Lobster Fest

Perfect Timing – Micah, the generous local lobster fisherman, holds an annual birthday party/lobster fest at the Dysart’s marina. We arrived just in time to chow down with old friends Bruce Kessler and Joan Freeman-Thank you Micah! Lobster-ific!

Rockport, Maine

We love Rockport. The sky tells the story, serene, and magical.

Unfortunately, Phil, there were no weddings to crash.

Boothbay, Maine

This photo was not altered in any way, the Maine weather was this perfect!

Portland, Maine – Dimillos

We said goodbye to Ray and Caryl in Portland, Maine – thanks for joining us guys!

Fashion Week – New York City, New York

I had the privilege, again, of supporting my daughter, Alisha Silverstein, during New York fashion week. Along with the insanely talented Carly Lennon Maurer (my niece), we spent 7 nights working in the Big Apple.

Hello New York! Carly Lennon Maurer and Alisha Silverstein

I am extremely proud of Mija who continues to elevate the Selkie brand with her exquisite talent. Here are just a few Selkie photos showing us at work behind the scenes in preparation of the fashion show

Alisha Silverstein and her cousin Carly Maurer

Alterations completed. Late night final touches.

A total of 64 outfits were displayed on the runway. All of them were customized to fit the models. Spectacular Results.

Yes, the starry night dress I am wearing and the black jumper Alisha is wearing are Selkie designs.

And yes, David Bernstein, we are drinking Aperol Spritz to celebrate!

Meanwhile, the show on Exhale went on as scheduled, with a well-qualified Understudy. A heartfelt thanks to First Mate / Photographer, Craig Adford! With Craig’s experienced, able-bodied support, Exhale continued to travel.

Crew change. First Mate, Craig Adford arrives.

Wentworth by the Sea, New Hampshire

Pickering Wharf Salem, Massachusetts

Witches for a Good Cause

For our Massachusetts friends, if you are looking for a local cause to support, check out this unique grocery store/food pantry.

The Daily Table, a Boston-based nonprofit. So far, the grocery store chain has a total of 5 stores, typically located in dense neighborhoods with little or no fresh food offered – known as food deserts. The Market is a unique food pantry found on the ground floor of North Shore CDC’s Lighthouses building at 47 Leavitt St. https://www.dailytable.org/

Photographed by Capt. Rick, the stores are absolutely beautiful.

Sandwich, Massachusetts

thru the Cape Cod Canal,

Pope’s Island, New Bedford, Massachusetts

uhhhhh – this is a hurricane warning flag

Flying towards the storm, again.

After an exciting fashion show, I met up with the crew of Exhale in New Bedford, MA, where they found protective shelter from hurricane Lee. Thankfully it was significantly less than predicted!

Note from the archives – New Bedford was the safe holdout we used when hiding from yet another hurricane in 2021. If you want to see the exceptional engineering watch this short video!

Closing the New Bedford Hurricane Barrier

I got to see Craig for one night, then he flew back to LA to celebrate Mason’s birthday. We said Goodnight under the Red Sky of New Bedford.

Mystic, Connecticut

Celebrating Milestones: Belated birthday wishes: September 10; Eileen Pitel; September 15, Tony Pearl Jam; September 18, Mason turned 5!

Coming Up: the next post will take us to Sag Harbor, New York. Thanks for following us!!

Changes in Latitudes – Au Revoir Canada

Lunenburg County, Nova Scotia

Entering the well-protected bay we could see the picturesque village was colorful, as advertised. It’s no surprise that Hallmark likes to film here.

We could have stayed for several days, like Doug did, but a weather opening dictated that we moved on. See that blue sky!

Shelbourne, Nova Scotia

Another one-night stay, we were greeted by Kermit

Local inn-keeper, Cooper (love the name, Jim and Susan), gave me permission to take a photo of him watching the sunset from his private oasis.

Yarmouth, Nova Scotia

At the entrance to the marina you are greeted by a life-size replica of a record breaking shark caught in Yarmouth. The unwritten message – Don’t Swim Here, Jim!

Record Shark Stats: Female 21-years old, 1,084 lbs, overall length 11.2 ft – tip of snout to tip of tail. Short-fin mako shark, caught August 21, 2004.

Yarmouth is proud of its historic buildings. With Gail B as our guide and narrator, Susan and I sincerely enjoyed our walking tour.

Built by the master shipwrights.

I think this one belonged to John Fitts, but maybe not.

Eatery recommendation: Immediately above the marina we found Rudders – the meal was hearty, and the Red Ale delicious.

Cribbage – Dating back to the 1600s a gambler named Sir John Suckling (what a name!) is attributed with the invention of Cribbage. If you dig a little, you learn it was just a rip-off of a British game called “noddy”. Cribbage grew in popularity during World War II. My Dad (WWII vet) had a board made from a carved antler; if you find yourself in Girdwood, go ahead and challenge my brother Sam to a game, be forewarned, he’s a bit of a shark. Cribbage is also a great way to hone your math skills. I can still hear my Dad counting his crib, “15-2, 15-4, there ain’t no more.”

Jim Merritt, Susan Merritt and Capt. Rick

Thanks, Jim and Susan, for the Cribbage lessons.

This unique board is a hand-carved swordfish bill, scrimshaw by a Nova Scotia artist (Bluenoser for Tumbleweed).

Au Revoir Canada

That’s not daylight, Dave Lubs, it’s a Super Moon at 6:04 am

As we departed, heavily loaded Commercial Fishing Boats were inbound, after a beautiful night under a full moon.

Back in the USA!

We crossed the Bay of Fundy into the Gulf of Maine (it’s all the same water, with an invisible border crossing). It’s BIG water, to my delight it was smoother than expected.

Jim and Susan Merritt have been a good luck charm, for sure. In addition to calm seas we saw more than one whale – sorry Commodore Greg, it all happened so fast!

Roque Island, Maine

Safely arriving at our second favorite anchorage (#1 is Pelican Bay / Cayo Costa), Buttercup sets four grateful feet onto American soil!

Another Time Change – as we entered Maine the clocks changed to Eastern time. Thanks Jim and Susan for making the crossing with us!

Inhale on the beach at Roque Island. Photo by Jim Merritt

Although the weather was chilly enough for long pants, Capt. Rick is happy to be back in the USA.

Morning stroll with Buttercup on Roque Island. Photo by Jim Merritt

Celebrating Milestones

Birthdays: September 5, Susan Merritt; September 9, Connie Kello Berardinis

A Tribute for the Parrot Heads

Saddened by the news of Jimmy Buffet’s passing on Friday night, September 1, we now know he will not be performing live in Fort Myers Beach when his newest Margaritaville is completed. We do expect the Grand Opening tribute will glorious, a perfect opportunity for a hologram appearance. Fins Up JWB!

First, a special Jimmy Buffet video, with an intro by the legend, who explains it’s really his truck, his first Boston Whaler, and his soon-to-be-wife, the inspiration for the song, Come Monday, is in the video! click here!

YouTube link to Come Monday. Take the time to enjoy this 1970s gem.

A few things even Parrot Heads might not know about Jimmy Buffett.

James William Buffett (“JWB”) was Born on Christmas day in 1946 in Pascagoula, Miss.

Son of a Son of a Sailor is a tribute to Jimmy’s seafaring grandpa, okay Sideways, maybe you knew that factoid.

Married in 1977 to Jane, The Eagles played at their wedding reception.

His debut album, Down to Earth was released in 1970 under an Andy Williams label. It sold 324 copies. Yep, 324. Since then, JWB released 50 albums, 19 music videos, and nearly 70 singles that collectively sold more than 20 million copies, so far. Let the counting continue with a $ boost in sales around Christmas 2023 as nostalgia kicks in.

Changes in Attitude.

The common perception that JWB was a bit of a pirate who squandered away his wealth was a ruse. Yes, he sang about how he “pissed away enough money to buy Miami”. And yes, Jamaica Mistaica really happened. An accomplished pilot, his plane, Hemisphere Dancer, was shot at by the Jamaican police – also onboard were his wife, two daughters, and U2’s Bono. The police, chasing drug smugglers, later apologized.

Paul Harvey’s Page 2: In the early 90’s Buffet got sober. Like Elton John, JWB loved to perform live, it soothed his soul; and like Taylor Swift, he owns his music. He was also a brilliant marketer. By 2023 (this year), Forbes estimated Jimmy Buffet’s net worth is, drum roll please, $1 billion, that’s a “B” for Buffet. No commodores, he is not related to Warren Buffett, but they were friends, and JWB wisely invested in Berkshire Hathaway. Forbes also reported he had 6 homes, four planes and a yacht. Most recently he lived in St. Barts in the Caribbean, Palm Beach, Florida and Sag Harbor.

RIP Jimmy – your musical legacy of love and laughter will live on!

Bonus for our Boaters – here’s a video of the unique design and delivery of Jimmy Buffet’s 42-foot offshore fishing boat. Hey Trevor, I hope you watch the video, it’s impressive!

Last Mango

A fabulous collaboration of Freeman Boatworks and Merritt Boatworks. Enjoy!

Next Up: Now, we are actively dodging Lobster pots in Maine as we head to Southwest Harbour. Sept 3 – Caryl and Ray arrive; Sept 8 – Craig arrives – wee you in NYC Carly and Mija.

Halifax Mooseheads, Nova Scotia

By now, I really expected to see at least one live moose, but nope.

On Monday the weather lifted just enough to leave Fisherman’s Harbour. We made a long, long run to Halifax – traveling a total of 92 nautical miles, over 12 SLOW hours.

As the waves grew higher and the wind got stronger little Buttercup buried her head.

Do you know why ostriches bury their head in the sand? Unlike a frightened puppy who just wants the rolling nightmare to stop, the ostrich is not actually submerging her head out of fear. Myth buster: an ostrich lays her eggs in the sand, like a turtle. Fun fact – on a regular basis the mama ostrich sticks her beak into the sand to rotate the egg(s), perhaps she has an internal “egg timer” that reminds her to warm up the other side. The head burying thing was just a bad wrap.

Arriving in Halifax around 6pm, within easy walking distance we found a delicious meal of Chinese and Szechuan – Great Wall, 1649 Bedford Row, Halifax, NS. Capt Rick said it was one of the best meals so far!

Still on the lookout for a live moose, the local hockey team is called the Mooseheads, this week, in a preseason home game they were royally trounced by the Charlottetown Islanders. 6 to 1. We like Charlottetown, PEI.

Holding still for longer than usual, David B rented a car so we could do some touristy stuff.

Cobequid Bay – the Bay of Fundy

Gail B spent some time researching the Tidal Bore at the Bay of Fundy. Reported to be a 17 m change (that’s nearly 56′) we were expecting a dramatic rush of water. In reality, it’s a gradual change without any “waves” to speak of.

Bay of Fundy, dry flatlands, photo by Capt. Rick

Waiting for Godot

This gentlemen amused himself as he said it was “boring” waiting for the tidal bore.

To me it was more like Waiting for Godot. If you can’t recall the play, and you have way too much time on your hands, here’s a link to the wiki page:

Peggy’s Cove

More touristy stuff included a drive to the picturesque Peggy’s Cove. Boater’s Tip: if you see a tourist bus don’t eat there, drive away from the light house along the freshwater lake, and enjoy a local restaurant.

The Press Block – Historic Rehab and Renovation. Mixed Use

Halifax is a bustling city, with an appreciation for historic renovations. This set of pics is for Ryan Mendoza, notice how two exterior walls shown in this photo were carefully preserved. The Press Block will soon be a mixed-use development, with retail on the ground floor. The top floors will be high-end apartments, with spectacular views.

Architects rendering of the future Press Block

My favorite meal in Halifax was an amazing Lebanese experience at Au Liban, 1460 Lower Water Street

More about the Blue Nose

Following up on the comical responses from our Commodores, what is a Bluenose? More than a person from Nova Scotia, Wiktionary definitions include a variety of potato grown in Nova Scotia, naval slang: a person who has crossed the Arctic Circle; and an Australian definition: an Antarctic butterfish! Blue nose was also a fishing and racing schooner, built in 1921 in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.

Special Guests on Board:

Hello to Jim and Susan Merritt – so happy to boat with you in Canada, again!

Next up: We are headed to Lunenburg. So far, Nova Scotia continues to exceed all expectations!

See you VERY soon Caryl and Sideways.

Celebrating a Legend – A deep bow of respect for the passing of Bob Barker, age 99. The beloved host of “The Price is Right” from 1972 to 2007. Alisha and I went to a live show in her teens. Standing in line from the crack of dawn, it was worth the early rise, Mija.

Nova Scotia with a Nat Geo Legend

The 1972 hit by Carly Simon, “You’re So Vain”, is one of my favorites, especially this part of the third verse, “you flew your Leerjet up to Nova Scotia, to see the total eclipse of the sun”. A fan of Simon’s music from a young age, exploring Nova Scotia was very high on my bucket list.

For my niece, Carly. Click this link to see and hear your namesake, Carly Simon performing live! Can’t wait to see you in NYC!

Commodore’s Quiz

Hey Commodores Greg and Gary, what are people who live in Nova Scotia called?

St. Peter’s, NS

The marina is run by very friendly volunteers from the Lion’s Club. As we tied up in the well-maintained marina, we found yet another adorable Rosborough from Florida. Hello to Melissa and Mike Read.

We did have a starry night – but without a camera with a high f/stop, it’s impossible to photograph. With a fun app, introduced by Chris, you can get a sense of how strong the stars were.

Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, NS

This quaint town is peaceful and sweet in the summer. Winter population is less than 1,000. Baddeck is also the summer home of the Grosvenor family, descendants of Alexander Graham Bell.

Perfect time for a dinghy ride

Traveling by water you get a close-up view of the lighthouse.

Inside the Yellow Rectangle with a Nat Geo Legend

Tied up at the Baddeck city dock, we received a warm welcome from several members of Sandy Grosvenor’s family. Say hello to Graham Grosvenor and his legendary father, Gilbert “Gil” Grosvenor.

Graham and Gil Grosvenor on board Exhale

Thank you, Gil and Graham, we are eating your lobsters tonight!!

Born in 1931, at 92, Gil Grosvenor is spunky and witty. Gil is the great-grandson of Alexander Graham Bell.

Alexander and Mabel Bell made Baddeck their summer home beginning in 1885. Mabel, who was 10 years younger than Alexander, had a fabulous sense of humor, as noted in one of her letters found in the Alexander Graham Bell museum:

“… it was impossible to see your stars last night. I am sorry because I wanted to see them because you were so anxious that I should, and because now we shall have to sit up again, and Oh dear it is so hard to care two pence for anything in heaven above or the earth beneath at four o’clock in the morning. “

Stock Photo: Alexander Graham Bell Museum

The stories of Grosvenor and National Geographic

The National Geographic magazine dates back to 1888. That’s 135 years! Without a doubt, the exquisite photojournalism inspires humans, young and old, to explore our earth.

For me, the extraordinary stories found in National Geographic sparked awareness of, and appreciation for, our fragile world. Growing up in a rural Alaskan setting, I was an avid reader. My love of traveling was directly influenced by the glossy photos and in-depth stories. Passing on the tradition a few years ago, our teenage grandson Leo is now enjoying the remarkable magazine.

Alexander Graham Bell was one of the original founders of the National Geographic Society. The first full-time editor of the National Geographic magazine was Bell’s son-in law, Gil’s grandfather, Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor (1899–1954), followed by Gil’s father – Melville Bell Grosvenor (1957–67). Our visitor, Gilbert Melville Grosvenor, was the third-generation editor (1970–80), later taking over as president of the National Geographic Society (1980–96).

Our friend Sandy is the great-great-granddaughter of Alexander Graham Bell (her father was Gil Grosvenor’s brother).

About a year ago Gil authored a book that you should definitely order (that is unless someone special already bought it for you, Sideways, just saying).

Click here to order this book on Amazon! A Man of the World: My Life at National Geographic. This description is from the Amazon website, “filled with pirates, royalty, treasures, frostbite, shipwrecks, impenetrable jungles, hidden tombs and ancient temples.”

Gil told us he wanted to title the book “Inside the Yellow Rectangle.”

Changing with the times, National Geographic has fully embraced the use of social media platforms. Currently, its Instagram Page has 282 million followers, reportedly the most of any account not belonging to a celebrity. As more and more online followers elected to “Experience the world through the eyes of National Geographic photographers” in 2022 circulation of the printed magazine dropped to roughly 1.8 million. By comparison, readership was around 12 million in the late 1980s.

Now owned by Disney, I was saddened to read in the Washington Post, “as of June 2023 the magazine laid off all of its staff writers, shifting to an entirely freelance-based writing model. Beginning in 2024 it would no longer offer newsstand purchases.” Perhaps a more positive perspective, the shift away from “news that is fit to print” is good for the trees.

More Grosvenor Family members!

Thank you to Sara, who went out of her way to say hello!

Finally, a BIG thank you to Sandy, the queen of crab cakes, for sending us to Baddeck. Say hello to Ironbear and Grogu, continuing the Grosvenor family tradition, they are world travelers, currently in the Netherlands!

Today, Sandy is busy as an International Judge at The Hague, and the World Sailing World Championships. That’s not a typo by the way. Here’s the schedule.

St. Peter’s, NS again

We circled back to St. Peter’s for one night. Paul and Donna, this time we got to dine at the Bras d’Or Inn, where we finally learned the meaning of Bras d’Or.

No Commodore, it’s not a lady’s garment, the translation is arms of gold. And the food was fantastic.

Fishermans Harbour, Guysborough County

Today we are weathered in at Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s a well-protected little cove.

Craig Adford, what do you do when you can’t travel on the waters? Fish, of course!

Dinner on board Tonto’s Reward – A question for #8

While Gail B was making another wonderful dinner, she noticed the spice you introduced, #8, Slap Ya Mama, is labeled kosher. Intrigued by the kosher-ness, here is Gail’s question for #8, “if you sprinkle a kosher spice on your food, does it make the food kosher?”

For the tribe, what do you think?

Wondering where we are? Here’s the exact coordinates!

Trivia answer for the Commodores

People who live in Nova Scotia are called “Nova Scotians”. It’s good to have an easy quiz once in a while. There are over 900,000 of them; over 400,000 of whom live in Halifax.

Celebrating Milestones

Happy Birthday Alisha, from Buttercup!

Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 20, Ann and Howard celebrating 45 years;

More Birthdays: August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson.

Up Next: When the weather clears, we are headed to Halifax. Meanwhile, Nova Scotia has exceeded all expectations! Jim and Susan, we can’t wait to see you!

Fresh P.E.I. Mussels

Gaspe – Sturgeon Moon

Old Farmer’s Almanac (that’s the Greatest of All Time (G.O.A.T.) resource) reported the full Sturgeon Moon would reach its peak on Tuesday, August 1, 2023, followed by a full Blue Moon on Wednesday, August 30, 2023—the closest supermoon of the year.

Why is it called a sturgeon moon? The almanac chimed in again, “Giant sturgeon of the Great Lakes and Lake Champlain were most readily caught during this part of summer.”

Sturgeon – the Dinosaur of the Great Lakes

Referred to as living fossils, these prehistoric-looking fish have been traced back 136 million years.

Sturgeon means “the stirrer,” the fish stirs up the mud and silt on river and lake bottoms. Pointed snout and whisker-like tactile organs near the mouth. Today, there are about 29 species worldwide, including the lake sturgeon found in the Great Lakes.

Stock Photo, Werk and Snells tag and release record sturgeon

Weird trivia: Spawning Cycles – female sturgeon start reproducing around 20 years of age, but they only produce eggs every 4 years. However, the ladies have been known to live up to 150 years! As a comparison, most Pacific salmon live 4 or 5 years, on average – and they only lay one batch of eggs, dying a few weeks after spawning, hence the AK Humpy’s t-shirt “Spawn ‘til you Die.”

I’ll do the math for you. 150 years minus 20 = maximum 130 reproductive years (you are right, at some point the mammoth mama fish will demand a rest, but it’s just a math exercise). Divide 130 by 4 you get up to 32.5 egg laying events. And we thought the Montreal Catholics were prolific! No wonder the sturgeon has lived so long, perhaps that is the ultimate Revenge of the Cradle.

Sturgeon have also been compared to zombies, because they’re never quite dead. They keep returning. At this point, I feel compelled to share the song stuck in my head. Thanks, Madonna and Weird Al, here’s a link to the 1985 hit, “Like a Surgeon”

Gaspe – Story Rocks

Slow cruising offers the chance to absorb and analyze your scenery. For me, the rock cliffs can be like cloud formations.

Do you see multiple faces in the rocks?

Historic Gaspe

Within a short walk from the marina we found an array of cozy restaurants – the smile on our server’s face was indicative of the warm and friendly reception we found in this adorable town. This cool t-shirt is for Tony.

Where there is wind, there are sailing schools! Sailing, take me away …

Perce Rock

We slowly passed by Perce rock – more pics of this infamous spot are found in the blog from Tonto’s Reward.

Caraquet

A unique set up, the marina has a miniature artist enclave located on the board walk. Meet Conrad Legere, local artist.

Inspired by the fishing boats in the harbor, this little treasure is now on board Exhale.

Sunset fishing

Possibly my favorite photo, local fishermen evoked a moment of serenity and happiness.

Bay du Vin Island, anchored out.

The serenity of anchoring out.

Followed by a 5:38 am wake up call. Oh how I hate early morning departures.

Notice that red sky – it should have been a warning to all. The seas got choppy, with another puke fest for the pupster and first mate. Thankfully there was only one irreparable tragedy.

Shediac

Train station art, zoom in, Mija, it’s a statue painting the exquisite mural!

Summerside

We were shoe-horned into a cozy side tie, thanks to the navigating skills of both Capt. Rick and Capt. Gail (yes, she docks Tonto!), there was room to spare.

It reminded me of Mija’s ability to parallel park in hilly SF in a certain red Honda civic, under manual power!

Charlottetown, PEI – Mussel Mania

Sweet Molly Malone … crying Cockles and Mussels, alive alive ‘o!, singer, Sinead O’Connor. Alisha, this YouTube Irish Ballad will give you sweet shivers!!

Thank you for listening.

Charlottetown, PEI

Our self-appointed ambassadors, Paul and Donna, met us in Charlottetown.

Really fresh mussels are best served with toasted bread and a gentle sauce. And best eaten with good friends so you can share the yummy-ness. While in PEI, we ordered them every chance we got.

Donna Oates and Gail Bernstein enjoying FRESH mussels.

Charlottetown Yacht Club

Boater’s Tip: The reviews on Active Captain are outdated. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at CYC. Reid, the new dockmaster, has a friendly crew that takes GREAT care of you and your boat. The restaurant above the marina office is fabulous! Overall great service and delicious food.

Charlottetown Wednesday night sailing Regatta

Kensington

The rain and wind kept us in Charlottetown longer than expected – giving us the opportunity to visit a VERY special place – thanks, David B for securing a rental car.

Repurposed rain boots, for Ashley

Anne of Green Gables Museum, Kensington, PEI

Did you read “Anne of Avalon”, or “Anne of Green Gables” by Lucy Maud Montgomery? Did you see the movie (there were several)? Catch the musical “Anne & Gilbert” on stage in Canada, Europe or Japan? Or did you watch the Netflix series “Anne with an E”?

If not, here are the cliff notes: Published in 1908 (YEP – that’s 115 years ago) by a Canadian author from PEI, it’s the endearing story of a precocious red-haired 11-year-old orphan sent to a farm in PEI – to the disappointment of two aging siblings who intended to adopt a boy to tend to the strenuous chores.

Built in 1872 – a home where the author and her Aunt Annie and Uncle John once lived – the tiny museum is a freaking cash cow, with a steady stream of visitors, and wedding events.

This organ is still in use!

The heart-warming story has been translated into 36 languages and sold more than 50 million copies. Now that’s a strong marketing team!

Translations Russian, Polish, Slovakian, Japanese, Korean, Hungarian, and Hebrew.

Kensington Station, PEI

This is for all the folks familiar with the northern CA community with the same name.

Victoria – lighthouse!

The island drive took us to Victoria, another lovely little town.

Have you noticed the influence of the crown on the town names in Canada?

In PEI you find Alberton, Charlottetown, Kensington, Kingston, Montague, Wellington, Victoria, York – just to name a few. English named places in Nova Scotia include Liverpool, Manchester, Oxford, Windsor, Halifax and many, many more! Here’s a fun list from Wikipedia.

Thank you Ambassadors, Paul and Donna

A special thanks to these amazing new friends from Ottawa, who made our French speaking experience so smooth, they also introduced us to some yummy wines along the way. We can’t wait for you to get your new Palm Beach! Meanwhile, you have an open invitation to stay on Exhale, if that’s acceptable.

Hey Tumbleweed – we know what you mean about time slipping away! This post covers two weeks of travel!!

A personal note to the duck people, good to know it’s all in a row. Impressive that the ultra-boring sea town of Crisfield found a way to attract a few visitors.

Celebrating Milestones: Birthdays: August 10, David Hendry; August 11, grand-nephew Romeo turned 10! Anniversary: August 12, 2023, Mike and Sue Gillespie

Next Up – Celebrating Carly Simon in Nova Scotia! Although the total eclipse happened earlier in the year, we ARE living the dream.

A few corrections:

Thanks to our followers for providing the following revisions. Keep those
comments coming!

Frontibus, a microbrasserie

It was incorrectly reported that Frontibus was a meaningless word [conjured
up by the owner].

Correction provided by David B., Tonto’s Reward:
The term frontibus is taken from a French drinking song titled “De frontibus”; the lyrics include “au frontibus, au nasibus, au mentibus, au ventribus and au sexibus”.

Still a meaningless word, just attributed incorrectly. Thanks, David!

Tribute to Sinead O’Connor

Capt. Rick noted, some may find this tribute and commentary controversial.
He’s speaking the truth!

In 2017, Alisha and her cousin Suzanne (both born in AK) battled cancer (correction: Suzanne was diagnosed with Hodgkin lymphoma, Alisha was diagnosed with a rare form of aggressive breast cancer), causing them both to shave their heads.

2/6/2018; Suzanne Hildebrand and Alisha Silverstein, two powerful women!

Thanks, Mija for the correction

Ray – we are still looking for whale photos!

And Heather, thanks for your never-ending support :-)

The River of the Fox

revised July 31, 2023.

Baie des’ Ha! Ha! Saguenay

Originally called in French the “Grande Anse”, then the “Grande Baie” the resplendent small port made us feel like we just stepped onto a movie set.

Holland America cruise lines started the lovely development back in 2009, assembling an attractive port terminal, information center and tour bus depot.

Within close walking distance is a state-of-the-art pavilion. Perfect for line dancing to country music (in French), the spectator area consists of built-in stair-stepped seating. Two very busy local restaurants (not shown) overlook the energized gathering space.

Now that was fun!

Just one block from the port terminal (within sight) you find photo worthy residential areas. BUT walk one more block and you might feel like you just stepped beyond the lens of the movie camera. Forget finding an ATM, or any form of shopping. Art galleries, boutiques and eateries are notably absent, eliminating the prospects for entrepreneurs.

The shortage of amenities was perplexing – given the expensive looking structures found at the port – until we learned the cruisers are offered one of two options: 1) behold the countryside by bus, or 2) view the fjords on a zodiac boat.

The dancers we saw earlier, they began their festivities well AFTER the cruise ship departed. Concluding the port name Bay of Ha! Ha! is ironic, especially since “HA” is the acronym for Holland America, probably not a coincidence.

Tadoussac

Capt. Rick says this is one of his favorite new spots in Quebec Province, thus far. Yes, we went there twice, both before and after Saguenay.

Funny signs: Don’t walk on the wall.

For John: Last Pub for 240 km, that reminds us of Arkansas!

Le Gibard, a notably pink structure, has an eclectic feel, and it serves a delicious pizza.

Ste-Anne-des-Monts

When you name your town after a Saint, it is appropriate to have the most prominent building be a breathtaking cathedral with the same name.

Thanks, Paul for arranging the private marina!

Drapeau Blanc, Ma Statue de la Liberte, 2008

A phallic collection of driftwood or just the makings of a gigantic bon fire? You decide.

Sunrise departure at 5:33 am

Although I am NOT a morning person, I do love a gorgeous sunrise. For Dave Lubs.

Riviere du Renard

Again, assisted by Paul, we stayed at a well-protected marina as the wind continued to gain in strength. Reminiscent of Homer, AK, we were surrounded by commercial fishing boats.

A Gargantuan Travel Lift

Several years ago, we told the story of our search for a boat yard with a travel lift large enough to hoist Exhale, to repair a busted prop; Capt. Rick says fully loaded she weighs roughly 60,000 pounds (30 tons). Followers of Tonto’s Reward also know about her roundabout route mid-June to Sodus Point, NY; a marina that could lift her beefy mass – weighing in between 44 and 53 tons, depending on her load of fuel, water, and ships stores (including the liquor cabinet).

The travel lift at Marinard is designed to pick up hefty fishing boats, weighing up to 300 tons (imagine 10 Exhales)!

Heave Ho, Bessy! Breaking a Record

With a capacity of 1,120-tons, Bessy broke the record in 2019, reigning as the strongest hoist in the world. Wondering where she is located? Her name is a solid clue. Heather and mOrk know, the BSE Maritime Solutions-Cairns Slipway shipyard is in Cairns, Australia.

An International Competition

Okay followers (especially Commodore Greg and Commodore Gary), do you know the size and location of the world’s largest mobile lift that dethroned Madame Bessy in 2021? It’s okay if you scroll to the end of this post if you are overly curious.

Frontibus, a microbrasserie

Riviere du Renard has one restaurant close to the marina. Fortunately, it is very good! Dominated by images of a red fox, we surmised the translation of Frontibus would be fur-related, but both iTranslate and David B’s Google translator reported the English translation is simply “Frontibus.”

Thinking the apps were flawed, we queried the friendly wait staff, who happily explained Frontibus was a meaningless word (correction provided by David B: the name frontibus is taken from a French drinking song, conjured up by a folk singer, the lyrics include “au frontibus, au nasibus, au mentibus, au ventribus and au sexibus”).

That reminds me of a vanity plate that is tough to decipher, if you are thinking about creating a special plate, here’s a fun link: https://licenseplategame.com/generator/

For example, BTERCUP = Buttercup, and 2N2RWRD = Tonto Reward

The server at Frontibus did shed some light on the significance of the ever-present fox images. This red-hatted fox is for Tony.

Still Reading? Riviere du Renard means River of the Fox, Voila! For Ray, we found a delicious French micro beer, Rousse [translation red, of course]!

Buttercup

Buttercup was more than happy to hold still for an extra day while the wind dies down.

The world’s largest Marine Travel Lift

Here we go. In 2021, the record was broken with the launch of a 1,500-ton mobile lift – now the largest of its kind in the world. The $6.5 million mega-yacht lift can accommodate power and sail vessels measuring up to 250 feet in length. Dimensions of the mammoth lift? 85 feet tall, 73 feet wide and 105 feet long! That’s substantial enough to pick up superyachts, commercial vessels and naval craft.

Manufactured in northern Italy, where is this custom-built hoist now, Commodores? Drum roll please … Derecktor Shipyard, Port of Ft. Pierce, Florida.

Here she is:

Its recent lift of M/Y Coral Ocean, a 240-foot (73m) Lürssen weighing in at almost 1,300 tons, makes it the largest yacht hauled using strap lift technology, anywhere in the world. That is until a bigger one is built, let the universal competition continue!

IN PASSING

ADVISORY: The following tribute includes personal commentary from this blogger that may be controversial and/or inappropriate for children.

Saddened by the news of Sinead O’Connor, both my daughter and I were big fans.

Sinead O’Connor, SNL stock photo October 1992

My daughter, Alisha, remains proud of her resemblance to Sinead, which she embraced with great strength as Mija fought, and won, her battle with Cancer.

In honor of O’Connor here’s an excerpt from The Independent (click to read the full October 2022 article, published after Sinead released her 2021 memoir).

Her green eyes gleaming with determination, Sinéad O’Connor stares into the cameras at the Saturday Night Live studio . . . and holds a photograph in front of her face. The picture is of a Brazilian street child shot dead by police death squads. It’s 3 October 1992 and O’Connor is rehearsing her cover of Bob Marley’s “War” for her performance on SNL that night. The child’s photo is a calculated distraction. For her real appearance, she’ll proffer another image entirely. And the response will be very different.

“I sing ‘War’ a cappella. No one suspects a thing,” O’Connor recalled in her 2021 memoir, Rememberings. “But at the end, I don’t hold up the child’s picture. I hold up John Paul II’s photo and then rip it into pieces. I yell, “Fight the real enemy!’” Her words hung in the air as she blew out the candles set on a table to one side. Darkness descended, in more ways than one.

In this blogger’s opinion, Sinead was a fearless, outspoken woman. I saw that 1992 SNL episode when it first aired. There was total silence as she walked off the stage. It was jaw-dropping.

This week I read about the story behind that defining moment. Sinead’s mother died in a car accident in 1985, when she was 18. Tragically, for most of her life Sinead was badly abused, physically and emotionally, by her alcoholic mother.

The photo of the Pope came from the wall of Marie O’Connor’s home in Dublin, one of the only things Sinead kept from her childhood home. Sinead hid the photo until the last moment of her a capella performance. Tightly focused on the cameraman (who had been told to zoom in during the rehearsal), Sinead dramatically tore up the Pope’s image; it was a VERY personal demonstration.

In my opinion, Sinead was a change maker, a Haas (right, Mija!). She demanded awareness of the evil inflicted upon the innocent, by ministers sheltered within the Catholic Church. Nearly 10 years later, the Pope formally apologized to the world: On 20 November 2001, from a laptop in the Vatican, Pope John Paul II sent his first e-mail apologizing for “sexual abuse committed by Roman Catholic clergy.”

Rest in Peace Sinead, gone too soon.

Celebrating Milestones – July 31, Ann Freedman; August 3, Andrea and Carly, August 4, Weston Wayne Sumpter Straley turns 10!; and August 6, Morgan Wasmuth turns 6!

Next Up – Gaspe

Quebec City, Magnifique

If you like Montreal, you will LOVE Quebec City. Heather, you are right, this city is magnificent!

We recommend the 2+ hour historic walking tour of Old Quebec. Starting in the Upper Town district, the guided walk is gentle, mostly downhill. Alas, for us, getting to the starting point was grueling since we started at sea level and somebody in the group with bionic hips opted, we should all take the Escalier Casse-Cou (known as the “breakneck” 398-steps), with no leisurely time to enjoy the view. Thanks, Claude and JoAnn for making the trek!

With even more stair-climbing and general touring throughout the day, Capt. Rick noted we well exceeded the recommended 10,000 steps for the day.

Samuel de Champlain

The Founder of Quebec City, our tour guide referred to the historic statute as “the man who wasn’t the man”.

Apparently, the likeness of Champlain, depicted consistently around the globe, was just an artistic representation; similar to the renderings of a certain religious dude, who was also never photographed.

Now for a few Places of note

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac

Hotel Fairmont, known to have hosted meetings of FDR and Churchill during the WWII Quebec Conferences in 1943 and 1944. Although built to look like a castle, it has always been a hotel.

Inside the fairy tale hotel we found a boutique, with a VERY sweet dress – destined to a special person with a birthday in August …

Chapelle des Ursulines – Quebec City Monastery

Located in the heart of the Old City, the Monastery was founded in 1639; it is the oldest institution of learning for women in North America.

The chapel was originally finished in 1722, revitalized in 1902.

The iron gate – separating the main church from the chapel – serves to separate the cloistered nuns from the populace. Originally, heavy drapes kept the nuns from view, reformed over time to allow them to be seen, but still separated.

Although the school continues to thrive, in September of 2018, after 379 years, the last remaining Ursuline Nuns left the monastery. With less than 50 remaining in Quebec, it was reported that the oldest nun was 102, while the average age was 88!

Murals!

Street Art in action.

Music in the Street for Mom

Fun parking spot

Cap-a-l’Aigle – Cape Eagle

Mother Nature – a beautiful garden

Mother Nature

For John

Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Douleurs

Another photogenic lighthouse.

Baie de Tadoussac – Whale Watching

Take the time to do a little research to find the whale tour that fits your style. Croisieres AML offers several. For example, riding on a Zodiac in foul weather gear (provided) offers an experience that is up close and personal, but plan to get cold and wet. An enclosed pontoon boat also gets close to the marine life – with some protection from the elements; while a 3-hour tour on a multi-level cruiser offers covered viewing decks with a beverage/snack center, BUT you won’t get an up-close photo, unless you have a mega zoom lens.

The scenery was spectacular.

Photo by Rick

Yes, we saw whales, but we have no proof. So, here’s a lovely replica of a white Beluga, with fireweed, from the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre.

A special hello to Ray and Caryl – from Salty Paws

A magnificent sunset for Dave and Holly Lubs

Repeating last week’s Boater’s Tip: When a little bit of poorly spoken French is not enough, just ask a friendly Canadian to interpret, especially when the taxi dispatcher has no idea where you are … But I will let Tonto’s Reward tell that story in Gail’s next blog entry. Stay Tuned!

For those of you who read Tonto’s Blog, you already know about the unexpected encounter at the Black Pepper!

For the rest of you, especially Trevor, here’s the gist. As we were finishing our exquisite meal in Trois Rivieres at the Poivre Noir (Black Pepper), Gail B., David B., Rick and I were approached by a dapper gentleman who introduced himself as “the former Prime Minister, Jean Chretien”. He said he was curious, where was David from? When David said “Florida, but my accent is from Kentucky” the friendly chap smiled as he explained he was the PM while both President Clinton and President Bush were in office {the 20^th Prime Minister served from Nov 1993 – Dec 2003}.

David Bernstein and Jean Chretien

When his lady friend returned to the PMs table [I believe it was Senator Diane Bellemare], the former PM introduced David as “an American from Tennessee who is visiting on his boat”, close enough.

Circling back to our boater’s tip.

Unable to convey our pickup location to the French speaking taxi dispatcher, I saw the PM approaching us – where his chauffeur was patiently awaiting. Boldly approaching him one last time I requested his help. Handing him David’s cell phone, after an animated chat in French he secured us a taxi! Voila.

Before parting, as he climbed into a non-descript black minivan, the former PM’s quipped – “You can see, unlike my friend Bill Clinton, who had 6 bodyguards while visiting me in Canada, I am my own bodyguard.” A rather tall [1.83 m] and imposing figure, at age 89 the Right Honorable Jean Chretien was a notable, friendly Canadian.

P.S. It was easy to confirm the identity of the remarkable stranger, and even easier to prove he is still a close friend to Bill Clinton.

P.P.S. Perhaps the accents from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Arkansas sound similar, to some. Just Kidding, – for our K. T. and A. originals David B, Dale, Ann, Donna W, Doug B and my cousin John G.

Celebrating Milestones

July 28, birthday Diana Giraldo, feliz cumpleanos,

July 31, Ann Freedman

Next Up: Bay d’ Ha Ha, or something like that – Saguenay

The Province of Quebec

The St. Lawrence Seaway is intimidating, with vicious currents. Boaters MUST pay attention to the tides and should navigate a healthy distance away from the unforgiving seawalls.

Port d’escale Marina – Old Port of Montreal

The Old Port is located in the heart of the city. Take the time to explore the historic buildings, galleries, museums, cathedrals, spacious parks, and boutiques – but wear comfy shoes, it’s a LOT of walking.

Looking for restaurant tips? Follow your nose! There is no shortage of amazing places to eat. This lobster place was fabulous. Sorry, no food photos.

Jardin Nelson.

Thank you again to Ray and Caryl for introducing us to this restaurant gem, Jardin Nelson was worth repeating, with live jazz at lunch and dinner!

Hop-on Hop-Off Red Bus

Sold as a two-day pass, there are lots of stops worth exploring. The bus is supposed to arrive every 15 minutes, but make sure you are at a current pickup spot since construction changes the route on occasion. Unfortunately for us, the bus did NOT stop near the Notre Dame Basilica, although the website stated otherwise. Walking from the marina, the best pickup stop is at the Old Montreal Pointe a Calliere.

The two-hour tour is a great way to see the city.

Although you might end up with a lot of photos of people taking photos.

Photos from the upper level of the Red Bus

Inuksuk

Inuksuks are fascinating. Found in Canada, Greenland, and Alaska, the pile of stones serve as a landmark in the Arctic regions. Depending on how and where they are built, each marker serves a distinct purpose: directions, warning, marking a food cache, or maybe a place of reverence. In northern Alaska tall piles of stones are used to create drift fences for caribou herds, gently guiding the critters towards native hunters who plan to fill up their freezers.

The stone piles vary greatly in size and shape, influenced by the purpose of the pile and the availability of stones, of course. The “human-like” or cross-shaped stone pile is uncommon on the tundra, attributed to the arrival of European missionaries and explorers.

Exhale art collection from Alaska and Canada

Shoppers Tip: Symmetrical carved inuksuk are targeted to tourists. Look for something unique and meaningful.

Ferris Wheel Ride – now that’s a view!

Thanks to Gail and David, I got to see more of the city! Capt. Rick is not fond of heights, so he snapped a photo of us on the wheel.

Cirque du Soleil – Echo

The newest Big Top performance, Echo, recently launched in Montreal. A tale about evolution, the acrobatic magic is reported to be spectacular. The Old Port marina is immediately adjacent to the circus tents, so we were really excited! Can you spot Exhale and Tonto’s Reward in the marina?

Location Services On

Bravo to T-Mobile. Yes, Emergency Alerts work in Canada. On our final day in Montreal our phones began blaring, “seek shelter, seek shelter”. Within an hour a dramatic storm occurred, aggressive wind, lightning strikes directly overhead, heavy rain and hail pummeled our boat, we later heard a tornado touched down a few miles away.

Plan B

Perhaps you have heard the old adage, “The Show Must Go On”. Except when the outdoor event is cancelled by a massive storm.

Although we missed out on Cirque du Soleil, when the skies cleared, Plan B was to venture out to a beautiful venue.

Great excuse for a yummy dessert

Departing early in the morning to match the tides, Tonto’s Reward navigated the seaway with grace and ease.

Marina Sorel – Parlez-vous francais?

In the Province of Quebec roughly 95% of the populous speak French as the primary language. And more than 70% only speak French (source, Wikipedia).

Don’t Panic travelers. Just a little bit of French can open doors.

Last time we were in Sorel, a place near and dear to Houlegan Again, Sideways got us into the Quebec marinas with his confident French. Inspired by him, I taught myself a useful phrase to get us into the Marina Sorel on friendly terms.

“Je ne parle pas francais, parlez-vous anglais?” If you can say, in French, “I don’t speak French, do you speak English” the response is often a clear “Yes!” Oddly, if you ask the question in English, you might just get crickets.

Boaters: We’ve got an app for that! I like iTranslate, David B uses Google Translate (free). With a little practice, you can learn just enough to be friendly. Surrounded by 7.2 million Canadians speaking French, it’s worth the effort!

Trois Rivieres (Three Rivers) Quebec

Marina Trois Rivieres is situated on an island, the river view is lovely, with well-manicured grounds.

The marina view is not so lovely. Exhale and Tonto were tied up immediately adjacent to the Kruger Paper mill. The mill generates “eco-friendly high-quality products”; perhaps “eco-friendly” just ignores the local environment because running 24-hours a day, it smells nasty. I mean REALLY PUTRID.

We left the smelly island for dinner; thanks to Paul Belisle we had reservations at a trendy waterfront restaurant in picturesque Trois Rivieres. The Le Poivre Noir (Black Pepper) is renowned for its authentic French cuisine. Thanks Paul, that was a memorable evening!

Boater’s Tip: When a little bit of poorly spoken French is not enough, just ask the first friendly Canadian you encounter to interpret, especially when the taxi dispatcher has no idea where you are … But I will let Tonto’s Reward tell that phenomenal story in Gail’s next blog entry. Stay Tuned!

Celebrating Milestones

Birthdays: July 22, Ray Houle (congrats on the boat transaction!); July 28, Diana Giraldo; July 31, Ann Freedman

Anniversary: July 22, Matt and Michele Jackson

Next Up: Quebec City – awaiting the arrival of Claude and JoAnn Welles!

Ottawa and Montebello

Ottawa is the most spectacular “walkable city” we have ever experienced. Meters and miles of winding trails bordered by thriving parks and immaculate waterways. Although bicyclists are abundant, there is plenty of room for joggers and pedestrians to stroll along the pathways. Amiga, Diana G – a healthy co-existence – in the heart of a bustling city – is achievable!

We found a place to tie up along the wall of the canal, in the heart of downtown Ottawa.

Boater’s Tip: Power pedestals are found closest to the locks. A long power cord is a must. Mostly 30 amp, you can ask the parc staff for help. Red zones are reserved for electric tourist boats. BEWARE: Always lock your boat or vagabonds might climb onboard.

Rideau Canal Skateway

Just imagine a 7.8 km (4.8 mile) waterway that transforms into the world’s largest skating rink! Wikipedia says that’s equal to 90 Olympic Ice Hockey rinks. Skating season is weather dependent, typically from January to March. From downtown to Hartwells Lock, the winding skate way is free for all to use, accessible 24 hours per day.

On average, the iced-over canal boasts one million visitors per year – that’s a LOT of hot chocolate.

Carefully monitored, the ice must be 30 cm thick before it is open to the public. A historic first, in 2023 the ice conditions were not thick enough to support the masses, so the skateway did not open. Global Warming is real, people.

Here’s the article from the Rideau Canal

Changing of the Guard – House of Parliament

After a lengthy hiatus – hampered by COVID and never-ending renovations at Parliament House – the daily Changing of the Guard ceremony is back!

Arriving early, Gail and I found a strategic viewing spot. It was the hottest day of the summer, so far, as we watched the majestic performance in the full sun. The marching band, in formal pomp and circumstance costume, wore heavy clothes that must have been ridiculously hot.

Gasp! As if to prove the point, a front row sax player suddenly succumbed to the heat. Well trained and prepared for any misstep, a medic appeared – like a moment from Harry Potter – whisking away the overheated musician. Equally impressive, she was immediately replaced by another sax player who stepped forward into formation, as if the switch was scheduled. Watching the medic escort the musician to a nearby ambulance, the gentle departure was clearly not intentional.

Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica

Inspired by the French Gothic Revival, the decadent Catholic church spared no expense.

Joseph Eugene Guigues, 1805-1874, the first Catholic Bishop of Bytown (now known as Ottawa)

Canadian Museum of Nature, Ottawa

240 McLeod St, Ottawa. A healthy walk from the canal walls, the extremely well-funded Museum is a four-story collection of rare artifacts and displays. For the latest exhibits, check here.

Dinosaur Exhibit

This is for Tyler Hendry – pictures from Grandpa Rick

A few random photos here

Check out the Canada goose, bird gallery, fossil gallery (superb authentic dinosaur exhibit), and many more; it was worth the walk.

Superstar of the mammal gallery was the taxidermist who expertly stuffed a plethora of animals, reminding us of the critters who came to life in Ben Stiller’s “Night at the Museum”. Creepy good.

Ptarmigan

With most bird species, males tend to be more colorful than females. Not the case with the ptarmigan. This fair and impartial bird is known for its unisex avian camouflage, designed to evade predators. Shown here in winter and summer attire, both male and female experience three seasonal wardrobe changes. Most unique – willow, rock, and white-tailed ptarmigans are the only birds in the world that go into full ghost mode, turning as white as the snow in winter! Also notice the feathers on the feet, making perfect snow shoes.

Question for Commodore Greg: Do you know why the willow ptarmigan is special to this blogger?

Museum Visit – Boater’s Tip: if you approach the museum and there are three (or more) school buses parked by the door, think twice before entering! The magnificent marble floors and expansive rooms are perfect echo chambers for undisciplined children – screeching like predator birds while running in the hallways. Chaotic disruptions translated into an early departure from a magnificent venue.

With that said, at the Canadian Museum of Nature we also observed several grandparents introducing their offspring to the wonders of the world. Tres Bien!

Thank you to all the grandparents out there who introduce their descendants to galleries and museums. Personal thanks to Grammy and Poppy Silverstein who loved to explore the Met, the MoMA, the Museum of Natural History and many, many more. Nothing compares to spending a day at the museum, followed by ice cream (or New York cheesecake) with your Grandpa!

Spoiled by a French Guide – Merci beaucoup

Friends from Gulf Harbor, Donna and Paul Belisle, achieved a 5-star rating as self-appointed French guides. In addition to the countless travel tips provided by email, in Ottawa we received the royal treatment, including a lovely dinner at a local Thai spot, a private tour of the city, and a scrumptious dinner in their lovely home.

Best of all, on our last day in Ottawa we were assisted in the final Canal Rideaau Canal flight of 8 locks – with Paul handling lines on Tonto’s Reward and Donna on Exhale – making it VERY easy for both boats to navigate side-by-side down the narrow stair-stepped locks.

Thanks to Paul (note, his first language is French!), he secured our reservations throughout the province of Quebec. We hope you join us soon Donna and Paul; we are certain you will find the accommodations on Tonto “acceptable.” Ils n’ont pas de chien.

In the past, translations were handled by our Sorrel-born friend, Sideways. You should be here, Lit’l Houlegan!

La Fin – Canal Rideau Canal

We said goodbye to the Rideau as we completed our final section.

To learn more about the history of this canal, check out the blog from Tonto’s Reward

Montebello and a Unicorn sighting

We returned to the Fairmont Château Montebello, another exquisite experience. Five years ago we were there with Ray and Caryl, on Father’s Day weekend. WOW!

Hello Morgan! David B and Capt Rick enjoying pool time.

Turtle encounter

Make the time to walk into the town of Montebello where you will discover several restaurants and historic sights.

Montebello Patron

Louis-Joseph Papineau 1786-1871 (sounds like pop-a-new).

Do you feel like you are surrounded by people speaking French when you arrive in Quebec? Why Yes! Thanks to this politician. Radical leader of the reformist movement, he made French the official language of the Quebec region dating back to the early 1800s. The sundial is a bonus. Batteries not required.

Now why is the Ptarmigan so special?

Commodore Greg did you guess correctly? The Willow Ptarmigan is the state bird of … Alaska (this blogger’s home state).

Willow Ptarmigan in the tundra, summer feathers red and brown.

If you like Cornish game hens, you might appreciate how delicious it tastes. Did I just suggest eating a state bird? Yep! Another fun fact, only three states permit hunting the state bird: Alaska (ptarmigan), California (quail) and South Dakota (ring-necked pheasant).

Celebrating Milestones

New Beginnings: Thank you Sarah Owen – Always Listening. It’s time to start a new chapter! XoXoXo

July 7, celebrating Buttercup; 365 days of belly rubs and poop-filled puppy, so far.

July 10, Anniversary: Jamie and David Hendry – celebrating 19 years; July 13, Birthday Laura Jo.

Next up: Montreal

Kenney Resort, Canal Rideau Canal

Canada Day is July 1. Celebrating the Canadian Confederation in 1867, Canada was the first independent dominion in the British Empire. 1867 was a very good year for the US as well, do you know why?

Hotel Kenney Rideau, Elgin, Jones Falls

Established in 1877, that’s 10 years after 1867 or 100 years before the birth of Ynot.

The Hotel Kenney is located directly at the base of lock 42 along the Rideau Canal – a UNESCO World Heritage destination. Search for Jones Falls in Southeastern Ontario.

To learn more about Hotel Kenney, click here

We were thrilled to return to Hotel Kenney. Under new ownership, the 20 waterfront cottages were fully booked for the summer, but the dock is plenty long enough to accommodate any boat. The quaint little lodge is magnificent.

The food at this little lodge is glorious. The worldly menu seemed eclectic, with a touch of Greek souvlaki (skewers of meat), Indian (butter chicken curry), and French (brie and of course Poutine) yet everything is 5-star flavor.

Make reservations for dinner when you reserve your slip – and don’t miss the Sunday brunch, the superb buffet is both sweet and savory. Open Wednesday thru Sunday, dinner starts at 5, the kitchen closes at 8pm

Boater’s tip, call 613.359.5500, or better yet, email: info@hotelkenneyrideau.com

Canal Rideau Canal

The French say Canal Rideau, the English say Rideau Canal; the multilingual signs use both.

Sources differ on the count of total locks, Wikipedia says there are 45 locks at 23 stations along the canal, plus two more if you take a detour.

If the locks were a flight (two or more locks connected together) you might see the same workers multiple times, especially if the parc team was shorthanded. Not a typo, in French it’s parc, not park.

North Pacific Rendezvous, Opinicon Lake

It’s fun to throw in a familiar French word here and there, like “rendezvous”!

Coming downstream from the locks was a nice surprise, a familiar NP45! Say hello to Ms. Proost from Cocoa Beach, FL. Traveling the waterways in the opposite direction of Exhale, they are enjoying the Great American Loop, while they wait for the arrival of their new NP49. Congrats Frank and Sandy de Heer!

Westport

Just a few pictures from this location. Introducing Finn the Bear – for Finny.

Spectacular Flowers

Clean air and long days of sunlight = vivid cheerful colors

While in Westport, we recommend dinner at The Cove. This was our view. Thanks Gary and Sharyn Morgan for spoiling us!

Trash on the Locks

Five years ago, traveling with Houlegan Again and Vagabond, we learned to leave trash on the canal walls. First task: Count the green shirts (even better, ask the first worker you encounter for a headcount). Second task: fill a paper bag with goodies to be left behind. In 2018, Maureen made it easy for us, taking charge of that fun task.

Contents back then were a wide variety, lunchbox snacks, packets of cookies, candy, healthy stuff like carrots and raisins, granola bars, trail mix, plus Halloween candy (that was Penny’s favorite) and Gatorade! The smile on the face of the receiving workers is priceless.

While the workers retrieved the “trash” from the lock, masked by the subtle gesture of a warm handshake, Capt. Rick would artfully hand out those little airplane bottles to the lock master, usually rum, whiskey, bourbon or Crown Royal – this one is from Sharyn .

This summer we continued the tradition with Tonto’s Reward, pooling our efforts so that one boat is in charge each day.

On Tonto’s Reward it was Sharyn Morgan’s assigned task, they also added beef sticks (VERY popular), lollipops, and other fun treats to the mix – until she and Gary abandoned us in Smiths Falls.

Smiths Falls

The expression from 5 years ago still rings in my ears, “Welcome to Shit Falls”, yelled the young girl on the lock wall. That was then.

This is now. We were surprised to discover the well-manicured park augmented by an upgrade of Main Street, introducing new retail and eateries.

Merrickville

Capt. Rick visibly cringes at the mention of Merrickville. It’s understandable, given the dramatic memories of where Exhale severely damaged her prop 5 years ago. The short version was Exhale mistakenly backed into a bed of rocks adjacent to the lock wall. Can you hear the metal twisting and crunching?

Attributed to early morning operator error, the crew survey concluded it was an “impaired driver” moment, possibly impacted by a decadent meal, paired with copious quantities of libations from the previous night, participants/witnesses: Craig and MO. We are happy to report the incident was not repeated on this trip.

While in Merrickvile, the Blockhouse Museum is worth the visit!

Hurst Marina, Manotick

Although this is a convenient location by car, the marina is lackluster, at best. Power is a limited and water depth is a bigger challenge.

Hello to Edith and Mike Frazer from SCYC. We had a fabulous meal at Black Dog Bistro in Manotick, ON. Thanks for making the drive! So sorry we did not take pictures.

Canada Day means wearing red, even Buttercup got dressed up!

The Swan was repeatable – the attitude was precious!

Boater’s Tip – depending on the size and draft of your boat, instead of Hurst Marina we suggest you try Manotick Marina, just up the waterway about 2 miles.

Morgan – this unicorn is for you!

1867 Was also a Very Good Year in the US! Why?

March 1, Nebraska became the 37^th US State. Go Big Red!

October 18, Alaska was purchased from Russia for two cents an acre by Secretary William H. Seward. Journalists labeled it Seward’s Folly. So wrong. Not only was it a brilliant, lucrative, land purchase – no natives were annihilated in the process. In 1959, another good year, Alaska would become the 49^th US State. And in 1977 (a REALLY great year) someone special was born on Sept. 15, 1977, the same year the graduating class of Seward High School equaled 33 students; 23 boys and 10 girls, including this blog writer.

Celebrating Milestones

July 1, Becky Weaver Browne; July 2, our oldest grandson Leo Perez; July 3, Kathy Avanzino; July 7 Reality Rodger Swink; and July 9 Anders Liljequist, Meanders, is 75!

Next up: Ottawa!!!!

Father’s Day Hot Dogs!

Father’s Day dates back to 1909, according to Wikipedia, but did not catch on as a hallmark holiday until 1966 when Pres. Lyndon B. Johnson issued a proclamation that recognized the day. Pres Nixon gets credit for making it a national holiday in 1972, officially designating the third Sunday of June as Father’s Day, a smart choice since that neatly coincided with the first weekend of summer.

Happy Father’s Day to all the sweet dads out there. Let the hot dog season commence!

It all started with hot dogs

For Mike Gillespie – happy 79^th birthday young man! And Tyler Hendry, who likes hot dogs now!

Two hot dog legends were slightly ahead of the Father’s Day craze when they opened a hot dog stand in the late 1930’s near the Santa Anita racetrack in CA, followed by a drive-in BBQ joint in San Bernardino, CA, that became a legendary burger joint in 1948. Talking about none other than Richard and Maurice McDonald, the founders of Mickey D’s.

When crotchety Ray Kroc bought out the enterprise in 1961 he proclaimed “NO hot dogs will ever be served” but Kroc died in 1984, giving a rebellious little community in Sodus Point the opportunity to open a “McSnack” in 1989, making it the only McDonalds at the time serving hot dogs. The smaller version of a McDonalds was open for a total of 4 summers.

Random factoids: Celebrities who have worked at McDonald’s include: Lin-Manuel Miranda, Rachel McAdams, Sharon Stone, Jay Leno, Amazon founder Jeff Bezos, James Franco, Pink and Seal, among others.

Sodus Point, New York

We spent a lovely respite in Sodus Point, while Tonto’s Reward completed her repair work. The former McSnack shack is now known as Hots Point, serving Capt Rick’s favorite snack, ice cream.

There are lots of great dining options, we loved the energy in this spot!

Boater’s Tip: We highly recommend Katlynn Marine, the staff is exceptional, and the village is delightful.

Thanks to Paul and Celeste, who gave us some great tips. Captain Jacks was a great choice, we went there twice!

The Beach at Sodus Point

Do you know the Great Lakes?

Our journey will cause us to traverse multiple great lakes, so I thought you might appreciate a little geography quiz. Depending on where you live, most American adults should be able to name at least 2 of the 5 lakes, without seeing a map. If you ever lived near the lakes, you should be able to name all 5. David B suggested we should make the quiz a little more challenging, thus the lakes are shown here in random order.

How many of the lakes can you name AND how many have you visited? Boat not required.

Navy Point Marine, Sackets Harbor, NY

We could have spent an extra night or two at Sackets Harbor, seasonal boaters seem to be arriving this week.

Thanks for the restaurant tip!

Tin Pan Galley was great – Gail had enough lettuce left over from her portobello stack to feed a family of rabbits.

The tuna was delicious, and more manageable.

The Great Lakes Revealed

Here’s the map, with labels. Captain Rick has been to all of them, on the water!

In the same order as the quiz: 1) Huron, 2) Erie, 3) Superior, 4) Michigan, 5) Ontario. And for the data Capt Rick requested:

Celebrating Milestones

Birthdays: June 22, Ann Hughes (65!), Scott Sherman; June 23, Gonzo Gillespie; June 26, Joe Occhino.

Finally, some Father’s Day Flowers from Sodus Point.

Next Up: Clayton Village, New York. Heading to Kingston, Ontario very soon.

Special note to our Cell Phone provider: Dear T-Mobile, please keep us connected, as advertised!

Favoring the Left in the Erie Canal

To lock through a canal each boat must carefully secure itself adjacent to the canal wall. Most canals provide long lines for the boat crew to hold. Beware, the process can be thorny – as you continually adjust the tension of the line in response to the change in water levels.

The lines in the locks along the Erie Canal tend to be slimy, so work gloves are a MUST.

Lesson learned: Shortly after the first swarmy lock on the canal, Capt Rick intentionally placed his soggy gloves on the foredeck, hopping to confine the grimy mess while they dried off. An hour later, the right glove of his favorite pair was nowhere to be seen, presumably it blew away.

Scrounging up a backup pair of gloves to handle the next set of dreadful lock lines, perhaps Capt Rick was suffering from short term memory loss, or misplaced trust that lightning won’t strike twice. Once again, he left the goober green pair of gloves on the deck floor to dry. And once again only the right glove flew away – leaving him with two left gloves for the remainder of the canal locks. Favoring the Left. Is it a political message? Nah.

If you want a deeper understanding of the NY Canal system, follow the blog of our fellow traveler, Gail Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward

Here’s a link to Gail’s fantastic post, including a fascinating history lesson – enjoy! New York State Canals

Riverlink Park, Amsterdam, NY

A quiet spot along the water.

Little Falls, NY

Nothing, I mean nothing was open in Little Falls. Timing is everything.

Rome

The next stop on our itinerary was Rome, but we opted to keep going since it was less than appealing with bars on the windows of the buildings near the canal walls. Buttercup did not understand how we could get so close to land without stopping. Pobrecito.

Wondering about that live grass patch? She stands on it, but she refuses to pee on it, even when the weather outside is miserable. Maddie was a LOT smarter.

Sylvan Beach

Tourism is the life blood of Sylvan Beach, typically beginning Father’s Day weekend – well after our visit.

As smoke from the Canadian fires filled the air, our walkabout was kept brief.

A little update on the fires: As of June 13, there were 450 active wildfires burning in Canada, with more than 4.8 million acres burned, according to the Canadian Interagency Forest Fire Centre. Raging wildfires in Canada have already scorched about 15 times the normal burned area for this time of the year: nearly 11 million acres — more than double the size of New Jersey — with more than 2 million acres concentrated in Quebec alone.

The wildfires started from lightning strikes in the western provinces of British Columbia and Alberta and have spread to the eastern regions of Nova Scotia, Quebec and Ontario. Yes, the fires are still happening in Nova Scotia, our summer destination. Let it rain, let it rain, let it rain.

Dodging the smoky air, we recommend the Canal View Restaurant in Sylvan Beach. Rather unique, the house wine is served in a handmade chicken carafe.

Ess-Kay Yards, Brewerton NY

Caryl, Ray and Brock Lee, M/V Lit’l Houlegan, met us in Brewerton. Surprise dinner the day they arrived: crab cakes, flown in fresh from Annapolis, handmade by Sandy and maybe Iron Bear! They were so delicious I forgot to take a photo. Thanks again, Caryl and grill master Ray, for the scrumptious lamb dinner on night 2!

Extra thanks to Ray, Capt Rick got to provision at Costco. Sorry, there are no photos of that event, either; but here’s one from the archives.

Never very far away. Life is Good when Rick can shop at Costco

For Piper

The meandering route along the Erie Canal offers lovely scenery and an occasional splash of local art. This is for our dear friends, the Jackson family in Belmont Shore – fans for life. Come join us!

Oswego, NY

Wondering where the heck are we? Starting at the Federal lock in Troy, we headed west at Waterford on the New York canal system. In total, we completed 30 locks in the State of New York when we finally arrived in Oswego.

La Parilla On the Water, Oswego

Local trivia: What do Gen. Colin Powell, Jerry Seinfeld, Barbara Walters and La Parilla have in common? Private chef, Raymond Jock! Read More Here

Our tastebuds were enchanted by the magnificent Mediterranean bistro found within steps of where we were docked. La Parilla On the Water, 24 E. 1st St., Oswego. Thanks, Chef Ray, for dropping by our table and for sharing your exquisite creations.

Seafood special: mussels, shrimp, scallops, and much more.

Sirloin chimichurri, cooked to perfection.

Meet power duo owners, Deanna and Brandon Lagoe. Ask for their privately bottled red wine from Portugal, Monte do Carrapatelo. The experience was top notch!

Next stop: Detour to Katlyn Marine, Sodus Point, Lake Ontario – for a special Fleming moment (we shall let Gail tell that story in her next post!).

Celebrating Milestones: June 14, Flag Day, Anniversary Paul and Celeste Amish; June 15, Happy Birthday Heather Rutherford; June 18, Father’s Day

Sleepy Hollow and West Point

Half Moon Bay Marina – Croton-on-Hudson, NY

We returned to Half Moon Bay, wishing that #8 would arrive again by train. This location is convenient for car rentals (Enterprise closes early, check their hours). You can also tour by train.

The sunset is breathtaking.

Boater’s Tip – the dockhands are “challenged”; trust your instincts when docking. RED FLAG: As you ease into a narrow slip also LOOK UP, if there is a chunky metal lift in the next slip protruding into your assigned transient slip, your docking space has suddenly narrowed. Beware, the sound of metal scraping is both loud and terrifying. AND, damage while docking is hard to resolve, especially in the midst of emotional confusion.

Samurai Sushi and Hibachi, Croton-on-Hudson

BEST sushi on the trip, so far. Highly recommended. It’s a long walk, or a short drive.

Sleepy Hollow is an easy drive (with a rental car).

Memorial Day flags commemorating Irving’s service

Sleepy Hollow Cemetery – Irving family plot

Gorge-ous Socks

As long as you are driving around, navigate to the Gorge, it’s a must see! Fashionable socks are just a bonus.

Touring West Point – History and Tradition Cemetery tour

Travelers tip: You can only book your trip to West Point online, the best tours sell out fast. Go early to enjoy the museum at the Visitors Center. The tour is a mixture of a bus ride and a LOT of walking. Bring water and wear comfy shoes. Our tour guide, Steve, was a wealth of information.

History: Overlooking the West Bank of the Hudson River, General George Washington recognized the strategic value of the fortress at West Point. In 1779 Washington moved his military headquarters to West Point.

Tradition: There are now seven chapels on campus, ranging in age and size. Some of them are shared by multiple faiths.

Our first stop was Cadet Chapel. We were told “attendance is no longer compulsory.” The lady next to me sneered, “maybe legally, but that’s not true in practice.”

Given the rigid placement of the hymnals, it’s hard to imagine anything is “optional” on campus.

The Old Cadet Chapel, built in 1836, is simple in its décor (sorry, no photos), with a wall commemorating past Commanding Generals – including a plaque for more than one of the men in the following quiz. Keep reading, Commodore Greg :-)

West Point Cemetery

We walked though the cemetery, appreciating the shady trees. Unlike a national cemetery, grave markers vary widely.

Colonel Markus, West Point graduate, was a founding father of the State of Israel.

Fun stuff about West Point: Our tour guide said roughly 10% of the 12,000 annual applications are accepted. Fact check from Mr. Google yielded 10.7%, trust but verify. In 2022 there were nearly 14,000 applicants. Average GPA was 3.9 – serious academic rigor. Also required: excellence in sports, leadership, and extracurricular activities. He also said on average 80% graduate. Schooling is fully funded (valued at roughly $250k), unless that cadet doesn’t graduate, then he/she may be on the hook to fully reimburse the program. Ouch!

West Point Quiz:

Quiz: Which of these eight men are alumni of West Point:

President George Washington (1732-1799)

Brigadier General Benedict Arnold (1741 – 1801)

Washington Irving (Author of “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow”) (1783-1859)

President Ulysses S. Grant (1822 – 1885)

General George Armstrong Custer (1839 – 1876)

General George S Patton (1885 – 1945)

President Dwight Eisenhower (1890 – 1969)

President Jimmy Carter (1924 – ) – He’s 99 years old and still kicking!

We said goodbye to Half Moon Bay, with another lovely sunset. Capt Floyd, you should have been here.

Hudson River Lighthouses!

Hudson River Maritime Museum

Boaters Tip – the museum is closed on Tuesday. Likewise, most (but not all) of the shops and restaurants are closed. It’s a nice time to cook on your boat.

If you time it right, you might get a local concert under the bridge, where the echo is perfect!

Donovan’s Shady Harbor

Another quiet stop.

I’ll spare you the battery replacement story. Let’s just celebrate that it was finished, and thank David Bernstein for the extra muscle.

This is for Ray and Caryl, obviously!

Waterford – Decision Point

If you read our blog from 2018 (found in the archives) you will know when you reach Waterford you must make a decision whether to traverse the Erie Canal or the Champlain. Height limitations, from fixed bridges, impact the choice. Since we took the Champlain route five years ago, almost to the day, this time we are headed west to explore more of New York!

New York Canal System

Erie Canal, here we come. Dear Lockmasters, please be gentle in those locks!

Boaters tip: Wear Gloves! Have your boat hook ready, and plan to wash the boat when you finish. In the words of Capt Rick, Mister Toad’s Wild Ride now begins.

Schenectady Yacht Club, NY

Our first stop was quaint. Dockmaster Ed and the members of the yacht club were super nice. At $1.50 a foot, we were delighted. Thanks for the book!

Restaurant tip: Order Pizza to be delivered to the boat. Glenville Pizza & Deli Inc, 80 Freemans Bridge Road, Glenville, NY (518) 952-4101

Answers to the West Point Quiz – aka History Trivia.

Can you identify which of these 8 men, if any, were West Point graduates?

Washington, Arnold, Irving, Grant, Custer, Patton, Eisenhower, and Carter

Fortress West Point dates back to 1776; in 1802 it officially became the United States Military Academy, now known as West Point.

West Point Graduates = 4

President Grant, President Eisenhower, General Patton (Ole Blood and Guts) and General Custer (he’s buried in West Point Cemetery). Another example of the non-traditional military headstones.

Commander of West Point = 1

Not a graduate of West Point, Major General Benedict Arnold was given command of Fortress West Point in 1780 by President Washington, who was known to genuinely like, and admire him.

Wait. Isn’t that the guy whose name is synonymous with “traitor”. Yes. How did he fall so far from grace? Benedict Arnold claimed that he was being passed over for promotion by the Continental Congress, and that other officers were being given credit for some of his accomplishments. Maybe it was an HR thing.

Repeatedly, Arnold faced court martial. Charged with corruption, he was acquitted, more than once. But when Congress investigated his finances, it determined he had misappropriated government funds to maintain his lavish lifestyle. Forensic Accountants Rock, MO!

When the financial mess became public knowledge Benedict diabolically planned to seek revenge against his former ally, POTUS Washington. Conspiring with the Brits, he shared a wealth of military secrets and plotted the capture of West Point; in return, the Brit’s made him a Brigadier General.

Fortress West Point was never captured by the British.

A memorial plaque for Arnold hangs in the Old Cadet Chapel, sufficient details remain to clearly identify him, although his name is intentionally blotted out.

Not graduates = 3

President George Washington never attended college.

Washington Irving, author of “Rip Van Winkle” was named after the founding POTUS, he was also self-educated.

President Jimmy Carter graduated from the United States Naval Academy at Annapolis, Maryland, the heated rival of West Point.

Thanks for keeping us safe, Sideways, we love SeaBees!

Now, a Really Cool Boat Name: One Moor Day, saying Hi to boaters Andy and Lisa from Seneca Falls.

Celebrating Milestones:

Birthdays – June 1, Craig Adford, Anda Saylor, June Bug Skyllar, Mark Marlow; June 2, Sue Gillespie; June 3, Lorrie Swink; June 9, Finnigan; June 10, Debra McGhan.

Next Stops along the Erie Canal: Amsterdam Riverlink Park, Little Falls , Rome, Sylvan Beach, and Brewerton!

See you VERY soon, Sandy, Iron Bear, Caryl and Ray (aka Sideways)

Still Waiting for #8.

Once again we covered a LOT of ground in the span of a week, thanks for following us. Comments are encouraged!

Miracle on the Hudson

Delaware City Marina;

We recommend staying at the Delaware City Marina, say hello to Tim and his lovely wife Beth (the feisty red head) . Their hospitality is top-notch. Charlie, aka Shorty, is also quick with the lines.

Boater’s Tip: The Marina is a continuous floating dock (no slips) with a side tie. 1) provide your true length overall 2) set fenders and lines on both sides of the boat as you will initially dock on the starboard side, then marina staff will help spin your boat around to the port side to depart with the outgoing tide. 3) The current is horribly strong near the marker at the channel entrance so don’t get too close, but also don’t get too far away as grounding is a real risk. Listen to the dock masters directions carefully 4) Do not miss the afternoon Captains meeting to hear the latest on the wind and water conditions for your departure.

Enjoy the local talent on the marina deck – brother and sister duet, delightful.

Also be prepared for an early departure, subject to tides and commercial barge traffic. We left shortly after 5 am!

South Jersey Marina – Cape May

For Exhale and Tonto’s Reward a two-night stay was too short. Sadly, with a boat repair underway, David B and Capt Rick did not get to explore the town.

Cape May Historic trolley tour!

Highly Recommended: Gail and Mary bought trolley tickets online, if it it looks like the tours are sold out, check back, we discovered they often add extra tours.

Sandy Hook – Weather Decisions

Buttercup often rides alongside Captain Rick in the Pilot House, sharing his wide helm seat.

We put a lot of thought and planning into when to “stay or go” because of the weather. Capt Rick has four separate apps that feed him meaningful data about the tides, the wind, the rain, and the depth of the water. We could see the conditions were not perfect, but we could also see the weather was predicted to get much worse, so we fired up Sally the seakeeper (stabilizer), and left as early as possible believing the winds are gentler in the morning.

Sadly, the water was rougher than expected and the bumpy ride made our young dog toss her cookies, literally and repeatedly. Tragically she was sitting on the lap of Capt Rick. I am sure you can imagine the mess. Drenched in doggy puke, Rick seemed unphased. After retrieving a change of clothes for Rick and some wet towels for the puppy my hypersensitive nose prompted a frantic dash to the galley sink, to sympathetically puke, multiple times. Another reason to be thankful for a garbage disposal! 13 hours later, we dropped anchor, followed by showers, laundry and a stiff drink. It was a rough day.

For us, anchoring out is usually a relaxing experience, but Buttercup greatly prefers to dock at a marina and then take a leisurely walk to a lush patch of grass to do her business. Anchoring out means she has to use the grass patch in the cockpit, while the boat is rocking and rolling in the waves, which she does not like.

Anticipating our trip to Sandy Hook, we acquired a patch of sod for Buttercup.

The Mighty Hudson River

The efficiency of the ferry system – back and forth from New Jersey to New York – is beyond compare as commuters whisk across the brutal waters, ripping up a current that is not for the faint of heart. It is also easy to visualize how the nimble captains were heroes, rescuing 155 passengers after Captain Chesley Sullenberger, “Sully”, flawlessly executed the water landing of Flight 1549 in 2009, known as the Miracle on the Hudson. Another great Tom Hanks, Warner Bros. movie, for Mija and other fans.

Boater’s Tip: Get OUT of the way and expect a heavy wake from the ferry traffic.

In 2018 the original Exhale anchored out behind the Statue of Liberty with Meanders and Vagabond; in the distance was Houlegan, again (well before we learned to love Sideways).

Liberty Landing

We recommend you dock at Liberty Landing where the view of Manhattan is magnificent!

There is also a magnificent restaurant near the marina, with a popular a game of chess.

A personal note: Happy Birthday Zach, my Grand Master Wizard.

Observing Memorial Day weekend in New Jersey and New York, a time of thanks and reflection.

Ellis Island

Tonto’s Reward joined us on a ferry ride from New Jersey’s Liberty State Park with stops at Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.

It’s so nice when someone else takes the wheel.

Ellis Island National Museum of Immigration

Boater’s Tip: Take a bottle of water – it’s a LOT of walking.

Here’s the History lesson, Commodore Greg

Fun Trivia: Long before it became a way station for people looking for a new beginning, Ellis Island—named for its last private owner, Samuel Ellis—was a place where condemned prisoners met their end. For most of the early 19th century, the island was used to hang convicted pirates, criminals, and mutinous sailors. The last hanging was in 1839.

Ellis Island is overwhelming, just knowing that our ancestors came through there makes it a treasured visit. It was easy to imagine the music, and the chaos, of countless languages as anxious families went through the grueling process of medical exams and interviews, with the fear of being detained or rejected. On average, the inspection process took approximately 3-7 hours.

From 1892 to 1924, Ellis Island was America’s largest and most active immigration station, where over 12 million immigrants were processed.

David B noted on the tour that we were surrounded by a similar mixture of languages, and the sounds of English seemed less than dominant.

For Danielle and Sandra

Curious about your ancestors who came through Ellis Island, click here! The Passenger Search database contains records from 1820 to 1957.

Hudson River Beauties

As we cruised along the Hudson River we continued to admire the exquisite architecture of both Jersey and New York. Capt. Rick said this magnificent structure appears to have a private landing pad for George Jetson.

What do you think?

Little Island – Pier Park

Have you seen the park that seems to magically rise above the Hudson? NYC’s first “floating park,” a $260 million gift to the city from billionaire Barry Diller, is phenomenal. Little Island opened in May 2021. Designed by Thomas Heatherwick, Little Island is a public park that rises out of the water some 200 feet off Manhattan’s West Side. By land it’s Pier 51, located at 13^th Street and Hudson River.

The 2.4-acre project includes an amphitheater – what a fabulous venue.

Thanks to the NY Times for the great photos, here’s the full article. NY Times Article

Celebrating Milestones

May 28, Brennyn; Scott Ginsburg; May 29, Doug Belknap, Joe Solari; May 31, Pamela Ledward

Anniversaries: May 26, Jeff and Patty North; May 27, Carly and Brandon Maurer!

Next Stop: Croton-on-Hudson, Half Moon Bay. 3 days, doing touristy stuff.

Yellow as Lemons

Alligator River, North Carolina

While Tonto’s Reward was leapfrogging ahead of us to Burr in Annapolis, we meandered to Alligator River with NP43 owners, Lisa and Greg Palmer.

Lisa from Beach Breeze

Be sure to walk into the marina office/gas station; order the fried chicken early, before the cook goes home!

Coinjock, North Carolina

For the first time, ever, we secured a section of the wall at Coinjock. The prime rib was exactly as expected – delicious. Because it was Mother’s Day the crowd was overwhelming.

Boaters Tip: Reservations require a party of 6 or more, so make new friends with the boats tied up on the wall and enjoy. We recommend the prime rib, just ask for a smaller cut! We will spare you the photo of the consumed cow meat.

Tidewater Marina, Portsmouth, VA

Boaters Tip: Believe the reviews on DockWa. The staff at Tidewater Marina is great! BUT, when you read “the marina is under construction”, it’s more than just a small inconvenience. If you have a critter you can expect a LONG detour, visualize an obstacle course through a construction zone on floating docks that rock and roll, for fun – add a little pouring rain. Buttercup was not impressed.

For now, Waterside Marina – across the water in Norfolk, VA – is much better.

Portsmouth, VA

When you walk about the historic district of Portsmouth you will find stunning examples of buildings from the 1800’s, rich in character and color. Zoom in to see the Narwhal carving over the grand porch, to the left side of the magnificent entry steps!

Before the civil war, Portsmouth had dreams of becoming one of the largest deep-water ports. So, what happened?

Are you ready, Commodore Greg?

In June of 1855, the Benjamin Franklin – a stunning 183-foot steamship from the West Indies – left St. Thomas enroute to New York. The Franklin unexpectedly detoured toward Portsmouth for repairs when she became so leaky that the passengers (not crew) were desperately working the bilge pumps to keep her afloat. Its boilers were sputtering, and a sailing mast needed reinforcement. The condition of the ship was shocking to the affluent passengers, since she was only 4 years old. Tragically, the shipbuilders cut LOTS of corners in her design and craftsmanship.

Two days after the ship arrived, a body washed up at the fort. Reportedly, “His hands were as yellow as lemons.”

Yellow Fever quickly rampaged Portsmouth and Norfolk, ultimately killing nearly one-third of the population. To read the full article, “The Fever,” Originally Published July 10-23, 2005, click here: https://www.portsmouthva.gov/513/The-Fever

Thanks to science and effective vaccines, Yellow Fever is now uncommon in the US. However, for International Travelers, it is still a concern. So, how does one get Yellow Fever? It is transmitted to people through the bite of infected mosquitoes, who got it from infected primates (human or animal) and then transmit the virus to other warm-blooded humans or animals.

Visualize an infected needle that is re-used, over and over again. Each time the mosquito pokes you and sucks out your blood, it left the virus behind. No wonder Capt. Rick HATES needles!

Here are a few questions you might have pondered about mosquitoes.

NON-READERS, it’s okay if you skip ahead to the next set of photos:

Do all mosquitos suck blood? No, the male is a strict vegetarian. On the other hand, females are like vampires, biting their victim repeatedly.

What is the life span of a mosquito? On average, females live 42-56 days, while males generally live for about 10 days. However, with a steady supply of blood, a female mosquito can live up to 5 months. Found dead on Exhale, without any report of bites, this mosquito was probably a harmless male.

How fast do they multiply? Once full of enough blood (either human or another warm-blooded animal), the mosquito will rest for two to three days before laying her eggs, generally about 100 at a time! Roughly 14 days later, the cycle repeats.

Where do mosquitoes thrive? Just a small amount of water; dog bowls, fountains, tires, barrels, vases and any other container storing water makes for a great “nursery.” Eggs are very hardy; they stick to the walls of a container like glue and can survive drying out for up to 8 months— even over the winter.

Stinky Feet attract mosquitoes – that’s also why they often bite your ankles! We have read that mosquitoes hate the smell of lavender, citronella, clove, peppermint, basil, cedarwood, eucalyptus, peppermint, lemongrass and rosemary.

Boater’s beware: The mosquito’s favorite mode of transit is by boat. The bigger, the better, preferably with lots of smelly bilge water! Another great reason to regularly check and clean that bilge.

That’s enough about mosquitoes.

Submarine Sighting!

Shortly after we departed Portsmouth we were surprised to see the AIS reporting a submarine, we kept a respectable distance.

Special Message for Beach Breeze: “one ping”

Spring Cove, Maryland

One of our favorite respites, Spring Cove is a great spot for Thai Food. We have tried two local favorites: one tiny spot is within walking distance of the marina; the second is a short drive over the bridge, to a more spacious location. Don’t be discouraged by the sad little strip mall near West Marine– the service is delightful, and the meals are delicious. Both Sawatdee Thai Restaurants are the same owner!

Drunken Noodle with Beef, Capt. Rick’s favorite

Spring Cove is also the home of Zimmerman Marine. It was nice to see you, Steve!

Annapolis Mooring Field, Maryland

We re-connected with Tonto’s reward in Annapolis, where Buttercup had her very first doggy restaurant experience at the Federal House. She was very happy with the Sweet Potato Fries; the server disclosed it’s the same fries they serve humans, minus the salt, plus the doggy bowl. She also whispered “the price is only $3 for the pupsters!” Generously, Buttercup shared.

A shout out to Tim and June, Subject to Change. It’s still a fun place to hang out, although we miss Maddie and Maggie.

Buttercup patiently waiting for her fries.

Annapolis Reunion – Iron Bear!!

The best part of Annapolis is connecting with Sandy! Gail and David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward, and Exhale were private guests for her “soft opening” . Sandy’s new kitchen is FANCY.

Top of the line appliances talk to you!

Her crab cakes are yum-i-licious as always. Sandy said “Hello” to Ray and Caryl.

Sandy – we hope you and Iron Bear will join us in Baddeck, Nova Scotia where Alexander Graham Bell adventures await!

Milestones:

May 25 Anniversary: Gail and David Bernstein, 49 years!

Birthday: mijo, Zach Silverstein, celebrating 42

Next up: Anchoring out, followed by Delaware City, followed by South Jersey

A little Sunday in the Carolinas

I am resending this post, after learning it got caught in spam by many of our followers. Happy Monday everyone.

Charleston, SC

The historic port of Charleston dates back to the 1670s. Our blog entries from earlier trips offer a few fun facts about some of the historic buildings, dating back more than 350 years!

Hotel Bennett, 404 King Street

Located in Marion Square, the Hotel Bennett appears to be a meticulously preserved structure in the heart of Charleston. Capt. Rick guessed the spectacular 9-story building would date back at least one hundred years, similar to the Francis Marion Hotel, built in 1924.

Guess again. The former site of a county library, the 5-star hotel was completed in 2018. You read that correctly, 2018! Giving significant credit to the architects Fairfax & Sammons who designed this gem.

Magnificent spaces with a historic flare, crowned with the modern touch of a rooftop pool.

Halls Chophouse, 434 King Street

Thanks for the recommendation, Tracy and Tim Harris, the steak at Halls was so tender you could cut it with a fork. Note, the prices are not for the faint of heart, but the portions are large, so sharing a REALLY delicious meal is strongly recommended. Oh, and a star sighting of Stanley Tucci was neither confirmed, nor denied, by the maître d’!

Georgetown, SC

One of our favorite stops is Georgetown. The abundance of Shrimp Boats at the dock is a reminder that a short walk with Buttercup – to the Independent Seafood Market and Shrimp Dock at 1 Cannon Street – would lead to a spectacular meal on Exhale, with Gail and David.

If you heard rumors about the market closing, don’t worry, they are just relocating to the opposite side of the river.

The smell of a paper mill is NOT a pleasant experience, but International Paper has been operating steadily since 1937 and it currently employs ~ 700 people.

And, we did enjoy an exquisite Sunset.

Wacca Wache Marina

located at ICW Marker #383 on the Waccamaw River in Murrells Inlet, South Carolina, this remote little spot is often the lowest fuel price in the region. We paid $3.34 per gallon for diesel. Both Exhale and Tonto’s Reward filled up their tanks.

Myrtle Beach Yacht Club

Finally, a lighthouse photo.

Southport, NC

We reunited with Tim and Tracy Harris, NP45 Golden Ours, in their homeport of Southport.

What can we say – Buttercup was spoiled rotten at the Lola Harris Doggy Resort.

Words cannot describe the decadent southern hospitality of our hosts, Tim and Tracy, who invited us and the Bernstein’s to stay in their little slice of heaven. The meals prepared by the Harris duo were phenomenal (better than any restaurant!), and the company was even better.

It was an AMAZING respite, thank you AGAIN. Bonus shot for Mija, jasmine at the entryway of the Harris resort.

Introducing the e-Moke

This electric moke was spotted in Charleston.

Fun fact: Formula 1 drivers have recently been seen transiting the tunnels of the Hard Rock stadium in Miami – headed to the winner’s podium – via electric mokes! Last year, a fleet of 20 electric mokes were customized – one for each of the FI qualifying drivers! Click here for a picture of Max at the Miami Grand Prix in 2022. Don’t worry Gail, it’s from Last Year!

One more fun fact: An F-1 can exceed 230 mph, an electric moke tops out at 25 mph.

Celebrating Milestones:

Anniversary: May 7, Ray and Caryl. Birthdays: May 8, Danielle Ginsburg; May 11, Michele May Jackson.

Next Up: Hempstead, NC – topsail beach, Moorehead City Yacht Basin, and then Oriental, NC (Craig, we wish you were here!!)

A Battle or a Land Grab?

First, let’s get caught up.

Kilkenny Creek

Golden Ours and Exhale traveled together to a rustic gem. The Kilkenny Marina is one of our favorite spots in Georgia. A few hours (by water) south of Savannah, it’s a quiet little haven, surrounded by magnificent trees. Thanks, Golden Ours, for joining us.

Triple Vision

And then there were three. Hello Chapter Four! NP45, Holly and Dave Lubs are celebrating a full year on the water. We waved hello as we passed by the Isle of Hope in Georgia, another great stop from prior journeys.

Exhale NP49 follows Golden Hours NP45, hello to Chapter Four NP45.

Chapter Four, NP45; owners Dave and Holly Lubs

Hilton Head – Finally reunited with Tonto’s Reward

It was sooo great to finally reconnect with David and Gail. Golden Ours, Exhale, and Tonto’s Reward docked next to each other at Hilton Head. Resort Shopping by the women meant all three men got something new – lucky boys.

Beaufort, South Carolina

This city with a view is pronounced “Biewfurt”. It is absolutely one of our very favorite stops along the east coast of the US, with unique small shops, wonderful restaurants, and a walking trail along the coast that is spectacular. The historic homes are beyond comparison.

Rick’s favorite meal is the lamb shank at Old Bull Tavern in historic downtown Beaufort. Reservations are a must, so plan ahead and don’t miss out!

Tracy Harris, Golden Ours; Mary S, Exhale; and Gail Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward

The Good Life: David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward; Capt. Rick, and Tim Harris, Golden Ours

Yes, Craig Adford, that’s an old fashioned in Rick’s hands.

Port Royal, South Carolina

Now for the promised history lesson.

The Battle of Port Royal was the largest naval engagement ever fought in American waters.

On November 7, 1861, a Union naval squadron under the command of Flag Officer Samuel F. Dupont sailed into Port Royal Sound and captured Hilton Head Island on the west and Ft. Beauregard on the east side of the sound.

A deeper dive into history makes me wonder why it was called a “battle”- since the sheer numbers would imply it was more of an aggressive invasion, a seizure, or a scandalous land grab of the waterfront property.

Visualize this:

The naval maneuver from Union forces, including Du Pont’s squadron, consisted of seventeen warships, and thirty-three transports, carrying approximately 12,000 soldiers.

In defense, the only Confederate naval presence in the area comprised of a converted river steamer, and three tugs, each armed with two or three guns. Yep, you read that right.

On land, Fort Beauregard was armed with twenty cannon and roughly 640 Confederate soldiers. Across the sound, Fort Walker was armed with twenty-three guns (with limited range), and roughly 1,600 men – mostly plantation farmers with no training.

Thankfully, the battle lasted only 5 hours before the woefully outnumbered Confederate soldiers threw in the towel. Horribly overpowered and outnumbered, it is surprising that the casualties were not greater; the Union squadron casualties counted eight dead and twenty-three wounded. Confederate losses totaled eleven dead and forty-eight wounded.

Today, Port Royal is home to Marine Corps Recruit Depot, Parris Island. If you have time for a tour, it is well worth the visit.

Milestones: Birthday: May 2, Celeste Amish

Next Up: Charleston

Jekyll is Special

Sunrise over Matanzas River

The reward for rising early is a spectacular sunrise. 7:23 am

Lions Bridge opening, St. Augustine

It was an early departure from St. Augustine – with only a slight delay as we waited for a sailboat to pass under the Lions Bridge.

Jacksonville Beach

Once we arrived in Jacksonville, Buttercup stretched out!

Golden Ours

Tim, Tracy and Lola Harris have a beautiful new North Pacific 45. We met up with them in Jacksonville.

Lola likes to sit on my foot.

Jekyll is Special

What’s so special about Jekyll?

Jekyll Island, GA was named after a wealthy Brit, I was disappointed to learn there was no connection to the infamous Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde (by Scottish novelist Robert Louis Stevenson).

In 1886, the exclusive Jekyll Island Club was known as “the richest, most inaccessible club in the world.” Early club members included J.P. Morgan, Joseph Pulitzer, William K. Vanderbilt, and Marshall Field.

Fun trivia: under the ruse of a duck hunting trip, in November of 1910 Jekyll Island was the location of a secret meeting hosted by Senator Nelson Aldrich (R-RI), Chairman of the National Monetary Commission. Sequestered together for a full week were the nation’s greatest bankers and a rep from the US Treasury Dept., entrusted with the arduous task of creating a central banking system for the US. Ultimately the Aldrich currency plan laid the framework for the current “Federal Reserve System”.

No mention of killing or consuming duck was found in Wikipedia.

Devasted by the Great Depression and World War II, the club was shuttered in 1942, Reopened as a luxury hotel in 1985, the resort has since been gracefully restored, you can check out some of the historic buildings via this hyperlink.

Zachry’s Riverhouse

Dressed for Cinco de Mayo, when we were here a few years ago, this critter was dressed for St. Patrick’s Day.

We strongly recommend eating at the Riverhouse, located at the marina. The fresh seafood is really, really fresh. And Happy Hour prices (from 3 to 5 everyday) have not changed since our visit 5 years ago! Best of all, the wait staff is delightful.

The floating docks allowed the two North Pacifics to tie up in tandem.

Don’t be fooled by the yawn, she’s very busy barking at everything.

Next Up: Kilkenny Creek, GA followed by Hilton Head, reunion with Tonto.

Milestones:

Passing: Harry Belafonte, 96 years young. March 1, 1927 – April 25, 2023. My mom’s favorite songs were “Day-O (The Banana Boat Song)” and “Jamaica Farewell.”

Thanks to Tracy Harris, a delicious espresso martini toast to the silver fox. Thanks for the magic.

the Oldest!

We covered a lot of water over the past week, connecting with Tonto’s Reward in Stuart and Vero Beach, then off on our own to Melbourne, New Smyrna Beach, Palm Coast and St. Augustine. Sharing a few highlights, with some solid trivia towards the end of this post to explain “the Oldest”.

Stuart

This is for my cousin, who was in Stuart with us last year. A belated Happy Birthday, John.

Vero Beach Beauty

Thank you to the architects who designed this Vero Beach bridge with pizazz. The pedestrian walkway motivated us to get some steps in – while in the shade -with Tonto’s Reward.

Buttercup is keeping a close eye out, from her favorite vantage point. Thanks, David, for teaching her this fun trick.

Melbourne

Now in our 7th year of boating on Exhale, trust me, we have learned the value of monitoring the weather! As much as I prefer to sleep in, an early morning rise meant we escaped the heavy, heavy rain in Melbourne.

Hey from Phil and Brenda, thanks for a lovely evening.

New Smyrna Beach

If you stop in New Smyrna, we recommend the Outriggers, Tiki Bar & Grille – try the fish dip. This is Jenn and her Rainbow Pens

Bridge Opening

Patience is mandatory, as you often wait for Bridge Openings. Timed perfectly, this opened on arrival.

Project Time!

Thanks Chris for shipping the package to St. Augustine. Buttercup was happy to supervise as Captain Rick installed a VERY cool ceiling fan in our cabin. Normally Chris is the co-pilot in projects like this …

closely supervising

Ceiling panels, removed, so many electrical wires to chose from.

A work of art – as if it was factory installed!

Coveted Title – the “Oldest”

Apparently, there is an ongoing dispute about whether St Augustine is the oldest city in America, especially after Pensacola dug up remnants of an olive jar dating back to 1559 – random trivia for the Bernstein’s – who despise olives.

Brilliantly, St. Augustine advertises itself as the Ancient City. It appears that smart marketing tactics date back to the September 8, 1565 arrival of explorer Pedro Menéndez de Avilés. Thankfully, Pedro named the colonial settlement after St. Augustine, as his landing coincided with the saint’s annual feast. Whether Pedro was a humble explorer, or just a brilliant marketer we don’t know – BUT just imagine, fellow mariners, having to hail the municipal marina if he had named the city after himself?? And, in a city with LOTS of pubs, it doesn’t hurt that St. Augustine is known as the brewer’s saint.

A lovely walk-about, beyond the tourist distractions, will bring you to the campus of Flager College. The most well-known building is the former Ponce de Leon Hotel. Built in 1888 by railroad and oil tycoon Henry Flagler – the target customers were rich and famous visitors; after World War II the hotel closed.

Decades later, a true visionary was found in his grandson, Lawrence Lewis, Jr., who collaborated with Mount Ida College to transform the shuttered hotel into a private girls college. In 1968, the Ponce was converted into classrooms, the famed Tiffany glass dining room into a cafeteria, and original hotel rooms into student and faculty housing. This magical historic redevelopment reminds me of the impossible transformation of a certain abandoned railway building into a community treasure – accomplished by someone who is always listening.

As of 2018, the Flager College campus included 19 historic buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places, all carefully preserved and cherished. On a spring day in April 2023 the campus was teaming with students.

The Molly Wiley Art Building is found in the center of the campus – a brief cyber search unveiled Molly Wiley was related to Flagler, underscoring the Philanthropist’s generous donations to the campus.

The Molly Wiley Art Building, built between1885 and 1887, the LARGE chimney stack used to contain four electric dynamos – to supply electricity to the Ponce de Leon Hotel and artists’ studios. Renovated in 2007, the building is now the proud home of the fine arts and graphic design departments. To my disappointment, to get inside, I needed an art student escort. Next time I know who to bring with me …

Future ports: JAX (to connect with Golden Ours!), Jekyll Island, and Hilton Head (to reunite with Tonto’s Reward).

Milestones: Birthday: April 13, Piper Jackson; April 14, Meghan Reese; April 19, John Gill, Jr.

Enjoy Life. Every moment is precious.

Life is a balancing act – hold on gently. You’ve got this!!