Tonto's Reward – Exhale on the Water

Oh, Maryland

Her state flower is beautiful!

Maryland State Flower – Black Eyed Susan

With a total area of 12,407 square miles, Maryland is the ninth-smallest state by land area.

For Tyler: Ohio is almost 4 times the size of Maryland, at 44,826 square miles. Let’s also compare Maryland to my home state, Alaska, which measures in at 665,384 square miles or 54 times bigger than Maryland! How does your home state measure up? Click here

Annapolis Regatta

Annapolis is well known for Spectacular Sailboats! These are for Gail B.

Wye River, Maryland

Thank you again to Bob and Susan Jellen for introducing us to their oasis, Wye River. We anchored out near their home with Tonto’s Reward; it was their first big journey on their new boat.

In the early morning we were surrounded by fog, the perfect fishing conditions for this hearty waterman.

SFYC minyan! Orchestrated by the Jellens, we had a fabulous dinner at the Fisherman’s Inn in Kent Narrows.

10 friends from Southwest Florida Yacht Club (SFYC) gathered together for dinner – clockwise from the bottom – Susan Jellen, Laura Magers, Patty Letzler, Patrick Magers, David Bernstein, Bob Jellen, Tom Letzler, Rick Ginsburg, Mary S, and Gail Bernstein.

A proper Maryland Crab Feast

Bob and Susan Jellen generously included all 10 of us in their annual crab feast at their home on Wye River. Buttercup appeared to be the guest of honor – spoiled with the best chair in the house.

We relaxed poolside at the Jellen’s – it was time for the BIG bottles of wine :-)

Left to right, poolside gathering – Bob Jellen, Susan Jellen, Patrick and Laura Magers, Patty and Tom Letzler.

Susan shared her technique to crack and pick whole crabs. It doesn’t get any fresher than this!

Not pictured: Fresh Shrimp, Grilled Alaskan Reindeer Sausage (provided by Capt. Rick – from Costco in Anchorage, AK, thanks Finny), and LOTS of paper towels.

Really Sorry, the video of Susan was too big to upload, although not as fun, here’s a page from the Annapolis tourist guide with similar instructions (thanks Jamie and David).

Old Bay is the BEST seasoning on crabs and shrimp. Note to novice pickers – although it’s very, very messy, it’s sooo worth it!

After a perfect evening of amazing food and great friends here’s a view of the Queenstown Clouds – reflecting on the water at our Wye River anchorage.

From the anchorage back to the Jellen’s home, time for a Dinghy Ride on Inhale with the Bernsteins. Buttercup is sitting pretty!

Wye River Lighthouse – sharing the beauty.

Visitors on Board – Hendry Celebration

We went back to Annapolis, again. This time it was to meet up with Jamie, David, and grandson Tyler who drove from Cleveland, Ohio to Annapolis to climb on board for a long weekend. Tyler is 9 years old. Grandpa Rick let him steer the boat with his big feet.

In St. Michael’s those big feet found the original Watermen Boots, as well as Grandpa Rick’s favorite reclining chair.

Tyler also found the Penguin Mascot – nothing like a fluffy pirate companion.

Tyler and David discovered a blue crab near the boat, which David swooped up in a net.

A few days later they caught two more. For the trained eye, yes, the top crab is a female! All of the crabs were to puny to cook and eat. Catch and Release.

Tyler really liked the breeze on the fly bridge – it felt like he could fly.

Along the water way we spotted Navy Yard Patrol 686. Used for midshipmen’s training, this vessel was outfitted for oceanographic research.

More Maryland: Closing with an easy listening moment for Ray Houle – written and performed by Vonda Shepard for Ally McBeal – video “Maryland” Take the time to listen, it’s sweet.

Celebrating Milestones – Birthdays: August 19, Alisha Silverstein and Julia Goral; Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson; August 24, Patrick Magers.

Next Up: Exhale is docked in Annapolis until August 24. If you are in the neighborhood, please visit!!

Celebrate Good Times, Come On!

Ten years in the making – It’s official – Tony Rodriguez and Alisha Silverstein got married on July 12, 2025. That announcement is worth the fireworks!!

Fireworks from St. Michaels, Maryland

Rick and I, along with Gail and David Bernstein, flew from Annapolis to CA for the sweet event. We started the weekend with Maureen O’Gara and Craig Adford (thank you!), in their beautiful home in Moorpark, CA. The monarch butterfly from their yard is for Alisha.

Wedding Magic – Mixed Tape

It is estimated that 150 people made the journey for the destination wedding at the secluded Pine Rose resort in Twin Peaks, CA [near Arrowhead]. Friday night was a casual mixer at the Strawberry Lodge, with roughly 60 people; a relaxed introduction of family and friends from both the bride and the groom, including childhood pals from Alaska, and special folks from CA, Oregon, Washington, Texas, Ohio, Nebraska, Kansas, Florida, New York and more!

Long-time friend from Alaska, Elizabeth, brought fresh Moose Meat, recently killed by her handsome hubby. Now that’s truly organic! Photos offer just a small sample of the happy faces who joined us.

Carly, Tony, Alisha, Mary S, Zach, Julia, and Elizabeth.

On the stairs Mo captured some (not all) of the Alaska Family: Austin, Kingston, Ella, Millie, Mary S, Julia, Tony, Alisha, Elizabeth, Joe, Brandon, Ruby, Carly, Zach and Elke.

Here’s one more from the stairs:

**Zach Silverstein, Mary S, Alisha and Tony** – photo by Maureen O’Gara

On the outside patio we found Alisha, Tony and Elke.

The Big Event

Saturday, 7/12/25 at 3:37 pm the magic commenced. If you are a fan of the epic Christmas movie, Love Actually, you must recall the wedding scene – go ahead, click on it, as a full choir and hidden band members surprise the bride immediately AFTER their vows, magically performing “All you need is love”.

To the delight of EVERYONE, the Big Event’s bridal procession began with live music, a marching band, with a trumpet and a drummer. The procession was accompanied by Alisha’s cousin, Joe Buckendahl, expertly performing on saxophone. Alisha’s cousin Kingston, and Tony’s business partner Joey, were strategically positioned in the audience on electric guitars.

Then the big surprise. Alisha sang, with confidence and skill, as she entered the venue. The procession song was Ray Lamontagne’s finest “You are the Best Thing”. Click here to listen to the original version – but you should know that Alisha did it BETTER. As she sang to Tony, there was not a dry eye in sight.

To keep the magic flowing, we are sharing some of the love witnessed that evening, with the help of many friends and family members who sent photos. Instagram captions give credit to the photographers.

Tony‘s vows resulted in uproars of laughter as he shared his deep appreciation of Alisha – who was caring for a well fed cat when they first met. When he realized it was a community cat, not actually her cat, he knew what she really needed – “not 1, not 2, not 3, not 4, not 5, not 6, but 7 furry babies” who are now spoiled members of their family. Beloved critters include three dogs – Jocey, Tilly, Mookie; and four cats – Taco, Belle, Luka and Jac.

The 100-year old wedding veil has been passed along in the Silverstein family, I believe it has been worn by eight women (is that right Wendy and Elise?). Thanks Grammy (Norma Silverstein), you were there in spirit every moment of the day.

Enjoying the magic with Craig, Maureen, Gail, David, Rick and yours truly.

Father of the Bride, and the bride, singing the Otis Redding classic, “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay“ . They both know all the words :-)

**Alisha Silverstein and Steven Silverstein**, photo by **Tanja.**

Yes the late night chicken was this good!

So Proud

Rick Ginsburg and Mary Silverstein, photo by Carly

Closing with an exquisite photo of the new Mr. and Mrs. on Sunday morning! Zoom in, Alisha’s t-shirt reads: “eat your heart out, I’m Married.” Mazel Tov and Congratulations to Alisha and Tony.

Special update: Tony’s beautiful daughter, Pristine, gave me a warm hug as we were checking out on Sunday. She seemed happy to enlighten me – since Tony is my son-in-law her two sweet babies, Juliette (age 3) and Penelope (age 1) are my great grandbabies! Pristine is truly beautiful, inside and out, and I am beyond thrilled to be a great grandma. Wow. Congrats again everyone.

The happy Mr. and Mrs. – photo by Mary S.

Next Up: Traveling Chesapeake Bay, a slow journey to Washington D.C. See you soon Craig and Maureen.

All Hail to the Navy!

Portsmouth, VA

Founded in 1752, Portmouth, VA is home to the oldest, continuosly operating, naval shipyard in the US, the Norfolk Naval Shipyard – originally known as Gosport Shipyard. Established in 1767 under the British flag, it was scorched (shelled and then burned to the ground) during both the American Revolutionary War and the Civil War, then rebuilt, twice, shortly thereafter.

During World War II employment at the shipyard surged to nearly 43,000 workers – mostly women – as the navy built and repaired numerous war ships. Thank you ladies for your service! And Thank You Ray and Caryl.

Stock Photo by US Navy: Rivet heaters and passers.

Today the yard specializes in repairing, overhauling, and modernizing warships, including nuke subs. When you visit by boat or in person, look closely – as destroyers, oilers, cruisers, subs, frigates, aircraft carriers, and even an amphibious assault ship might be found in the Naval Station Norfolk.

Stock photo by Shelby West: USS Toledo (SSN 769)

As we floated by at 8 knots we saw aircraft carrier USS George H W Bush (CVN77) and USS Harry S. Truman (USS75).

Stock Photo by Shelby West: USS George H W Bush CVN 77

Stock Photo by Shelby West: USS Harry Truman (CVN 75)

and to give you perspective, that’s Slip Away approaching the USS Carter Hall (LSD50).

We also saw a training Rescue Operation with a very skilled helicopter pilot.

Tidewater Yacht Marina, Crawford Bay, Portsmouth

Construction on the docks at Tidewater is done! In celebration of the annual Harbor Fest, we got to enjoy a low country boil. Sorry I did not take the photo sooner – the grill was originally overflowing with fresh corn, potatoes, sausage, crawdads, clams, shrimp and so much more. Boater’s: Click here to learn more about the Marina .

Port Haywood Lighthouse – Wolf Trap

We enjoyed smooth waters on our run from Portmouth to Deltaville.

Deltaville, Norview Marina

Found at the heart of the Chesapeake Bay, year round population is a paltry 1,100, yet, Deltaville has over 25 marinas!

Stingray Point

Ready for a fishy fable?

Sometime during the 17th century the english explorer Captain John Smith was fishing off a shoal at the tip of Deltaville. Yes, it was the infamous dude who reportedly loved Pocahantas; but not all historians agree on that report.

A young Pocahontas. Photo by Angela L. Daniel.

Sidebar – John and the Indian Princess met in 1607, when she was only 11. At 14 the Princess married Indian warrior Kocoum. In 1614, Pocahontas was kidnapped in a power move to end the first Anglo-Powhatan War, her husband Kocoum was murdered. Raped by her captors, the pregnant princess was later married to Englishman John Rolfe. Here’s a link to more of her story.

Notice it was the “first” war; just 8 years later the second war begins.

Continuing the Deltaville fish tale, Capt. Smith caught a large ray, that promptly stung him. Turns out a Cownose Ray has a venomous sting, leading Smith to believe death was imminent.

https://oceana.org/marine-life/cownose-ray/

Miraculously, after the application of a “snake oil,” Smith survived – and then ate the offending ray, most likely sauteed in more oil. And that’s how the location earned the moniker Stingray Point.

Thank you to Tom and Pat for spoiling us at your summer respite, Norview Marina in Deltaville.

The dinghy ride was fun! Thanks for letting Capt. Rick relax as a happy passenger. Here are a few photos from our ride.

We spotted another Sea Trek for B and B! This boat is in rough shape, but the name is very special.

Wondering what an Oyster boat looks like? This is Wolf Trap.

Lighthouse time!

Oyster Heaven

Roughly 30 minutes from the marina you will find Topping, VA. the location of the Merroir Tasting Room. This time we ordered double the oysters for the 4 of us – two dozen! Half Rappahannock River Oysters and half Olde Salts Oysters. Pat and Mike you were right – it was the Best oyster bar, so far! Curious where the oysters are from? Check here.

Virginia is the top oyster-producing state on the East Coast. 2023 was a record year, with over 700,000 bushels harvested. A little easy math: a bushel is about 100 oysters, so that’s 70 million oysters! The Rappahannock River in the Deltaville area is a key oyster-producing area; oh so delicioso.

Fun Facts: The maximum daily limit per commercial vessel is equal to the number of registered commercial fisherman licensees on board times eight bushels, with a cap of 24 bushels per vessel, per day, or 200 dozen oysters – far more than Tom and Pat and Rick and I could consume – although I think Mike, or Michelle might be willing to try! Apparently they also have limited fishing hours from Monday through Friday; giving the innocent oysters a relaxing weekend without the fear of being chilled and consumed.

Solomons, MD – Calverts

This stop was new to us.

The family run marina is BY FAR the best docking rates we have experienced. Ready? Transient docks are $1 per foot per day (yep) and power is $10. For our 52 KK, that was a total of $62. Hey Dave Lubs – the monthly rate is $14 per foot, plus power! I think that is better than Crisfield, MD.

There is a lovely pool, that appeared to be empty, until you zoom in to see one user enjoying the clean water :-)

There are fun places to visit nearby Calverts, like the Annmarie Sculpture Garden and Art’s Center, plus numerous other spots on Solomon’s Island, easily accessible if you launch your dinghy. We will explore more on our return journey.

A special Lighthouse for Caryl

Thomas Point Shoal Lighthouse was built in 1875 and is still an active Beacon of Navigation. 150 years strong, it’s the only screw-pile lighthouse still standing at its original site. Isn’t she a beauty!

As we approached Annapolis I noticed this cargo ship – from this angle it appears a collision with the bridge is imminent. Capt Rick says it’s an optical illusion …

Given the history of this area, it gave me pause. Remember Baltimore, where the Francis Scott Key Bridge collapsed on March 26, 2024. Click here for an update on that fateful event, one year after the crash.

Annapolis, MD, finally!

Nearly ten weeks have elapsed since Tonto’s Reward departed Fort Myers – Reunited at last, Buttercup was VERY happy to see Gail.

After a long slow journey from Southwest Florida to Annapolis, Exhale will be decompressing in Annapolis for a short while. It’s also time to look for a dog groomer for Buttercup.

Looking a little shaggy, Peanut Buttercup

Celebrating Milestones

June 14, Happy Anniversary Paul and Celeste – Celebrating 50!

June 15 – Happy Father’s Day

June 17 – Birthday Harrison Wilder Bishop is two!

And now a word from the Captain:

Our previous travels on the Chesapeake have been rough [2018 once, 2021 twice and 2023 twice], souring our impression of this area. Each time, weather was NOT our friend, thus we did not experience the “magical allure” of the Chesapeake, as touted by so many of our boating friends.

To our surprise, the last three days of travel on the Chesapeake have been delightful, with calm waters and no more than the lightest bit of rain. We did have a bizarre “hatch” of ticks launch a full scale attack on the boat, but the ever vigilant efforts [of Capt. Rick] won out – as the pests were banished by a strong stream of water.

So far, our 2025 journey on the Chesapeake has softened our perception of this area. Perhaps there is a valid reason there are sooo many boaters here. Here’s to Fair Winds and Smooth Sailing.

Capt. Rick

Walk Right In!

A New Adventure Begins

In 1963, The Rooftop Singers got it right with their No 1 single:

Walk right in, sit right down
Daddy, let your mind roll on

Everybody’s talkin’ ’bout a new way of walkin’
Do you want to lose your mind?
Walk right in, sit right down
Daddy, let your mind roll on

This YouTube clip is for David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward and for Doug and Dana Belknap, M/V Tumbleweed :-)

How is this folksy song relevant? Drum Roll please … Exhale now has a walk-in engine room! Feeling dazed and Confused? Yes, Dave Lubs, we are still married, and yes, contrary to what I told you repeatedly – we sold our magnificent 2021 North Pacific 49 Euro Pilothouse. New subscribers – if you are not familiar THIS is/was our boat, https://northpacificyachts.com/boats/49-e-pilothouse/

Backing up a little bit in time, selling was a difficult decision but, drastic action was prompted by Father Time – you see, Capt. Rick cringed every time he merely contemplated the hot yoga required in the 40-inch high engine room. The captain was tired of crawling around on his knees to perform the daily engine room checks, it was just too much pain for those achy knees and hips.

One night he sighed deeply as he announced – it was time to give up boating.

Buttercup was in shock – what about those sunny days on the water, most important she did not want to lose out on the dog treats and belly rubs from Gail Bernstein! I was dismayed at the prospect of losing our floating home. For the past 8 years we have escaped the muggy summer heat of Florida, spoiled by the splendid respite of cool northern waters.

So, I asked Capt. Rick one simple question – why don’t we buy a boat with a walk-in engine room???

Kadey Krogen 52 walk in engine room. Buttercup approved.

After several months of searching, Capt. Rick found the perfect fit. Similar in size and amenities to the North Pacific 49, BUT with a walk in engine room. Oh Yes!

We are proud to announce our boating adventures will continue (WooHoo!) since we now own a lightly used 2019 Kadey Krogen 52, formerly known as Papa Whiskey.

After a purging and renaming ceremony to appease Poseidon and the four wind gods (thanks, Gail and David), we enjoyed a brief shake down cruise to my all-time favorite waters – Pelican Bay – with Tonto’s Reward and Knot Dreaming (thanks Gary for bringing the delicious old fashioned!).

Knot Dreaming NP 44, Capt. Gary Ralph; Pelican Bay

Anchors Away! Introducing the new Exhale!!

Departing our home dock on Saturday, April 26, we are heading somewhere north for the summer months. For the first time in our boating career, we do not have a float plan – we will meander (that’s for you, Marty and Anders) at a turtle speed. Keep an eye out for our travels.

the **new Exhale** anchored in Pelican Bay, Florida – March 30, 2025.

Here’s the view from the pilothouse – looking great!

Capt Rick at the helm of the new Exhale.

CELEBRATING FRIEND AND FAMILY MILESTONES

April Birthdays: Ryan Mendoza, April 7 (the Big 50); Grandson Tyler J. Hendry, April 8 (9 years old!); April 10, Dale Morgan; April 13, Piper Jackson sweet 17; April 14, Meghan Reese; April 19, Cousin John Gill; April 22, Katrin Ericson; and April 27, Monica Babich.

Congrats on your new home, Caryl and Sideways! Join us soon.

Rest in Peace, Pope Francis.

Post Script – Don’t worry North Pacific family, the NP49-11 is in great hands. Soon to be known as Above Expectations, the new owners, Ron and Dr. Karen Oldano, are amazing people you should get to know!

Finally, WELCOME to the new subscribers. If you like our whimsical blog, please give us a thumbs up, offer comments, and feel free to share with your friends!

A Battle or a Land Grab?

First, let’s get caught up.

Kilkenny Creek

Golden Ours and Exhale traveled together to a rustic gem. The Kilkenny Marina is one of our favorite spots in Georgia. A few hours (by water) south of Savannah, it’s a quiet little haven, surrounded by magnificent trees. Thanks, Golden Ours, for joining us.

Triple Vision

And then there were three. Hello Chapter Four! NP45, Holly and Dave Lubs are celebrating a full year on the water. We waved hello as we passed by the Isle of Hope in Georgia, another great stop from prior journeys.

Exhale NP49 follows Golden Hours NP45, hello to Chapter Four NP45.

Chapter Four, NP45; owners Dave and Holly Lubs

Hilton Head – Finally reunited with Tonto’s Reward

It was sooo great to finally reconnect with David and Gail. Golden Ours, Exhale, and Tonto’s Reward docked next to each other at Hilton Head. Resort Shopping by the women meant all three men got something new – lucky boys.

Beaufort, South Carolina

This city with a view is pronounced “Biewfurt”. It is absolutely one of our very favorite stops along the east coast of the US, with unique small shops, wonderful restaurants, and a walking trail along the coast that is spectacular. The historic homes are beyond comparison.

Rick’s favorite meal is the lamb shank at Old Bull Tavern in historic downtown Beaufort. Reservations are a must, so plan ahead and don’t miss out!

Tracy Harris, Golden Ours; Mary S, Exhale; and Gail Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward

The Good Life: David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward; Capt. Rick, and Tim Harris, Golden Ours

Yes, Craig Adford, that’s an old fashioned in Rick’s hands.

Port Royal, South Carolina

Now for the promised history lesson.

The Battle of Port Royal was the largest naval engagement ever fought in American waters.

On November 7, 1861, a Union naval squadron under the command of Flag Officer Samuel F. Dupont sailed into Port Royal Sound and captured Hilton Head Island on the west and Ft. Beauregard on the east side of the sound.

A deeper dive into history makes me wonder why it was called a “battle”- since the sheer numbers would imply it was more of an aggressive invasion, a seizure, or a scandalous land grab of the waterfront property.

Visualize this:

The naval maneuver from Union forces, including Du Pont’s squadron, consisted of seventeen warships, and thirty-three transports, carrying approximately 12,000 soldiers.

In defense, the only Confederate naval presence in the area comprised of a converted river steamer, and three tugs, each armed with two or three guns. Yep, you read that right.

On land, Fort Beauregard was armed with twenty cannon and roughly 640 Confederate soldiers. Across the sound, Fort Walker was armed with twenty-three guns (with limited range), and roughly 1,600 men – mostly plantation farmers with no training.

Thankfully, the battle lasted only 5 hours before the woefully outnumbered Confederate soldiers threw in the towel. Horribly overpowered and outnumbered, it is surprising that the casualties were not greater; the Union squadron casualties counted eight dead and twenty-three wounded. Confederate losses totaled eleven dead and forty-eight wounded.

Today, Port Royal is home to Marine Corps Recruit Depot, Parris Island. If you have time for a tour, it is well worth the visit.

Milestones: Birthday: May 2, Celeste Amish

Next Up: Charleston

Forgettable Orchid Bay

Capt Rick was confused. “I just don’t remember being at Orchid Bay, are you sure?” he asked, repeatedly. “Ooh yes, we were here”, responded David G., the proof was in the photo.

Capt Rick and Maddie Sue, 2019, Orchid Bay

GREAT GUANA KEY

Orchid Bay, Great Guana Key is home to two infamous bars, Nippers and Grabbers. Although both are very colorful, there are notable differences.

We wrote kindly about Nippers in 2019. But after the hurricane, we felt Nippers put lipstick on a pig – let’s just say it was a wimpy effort – with wobbly tables, warped floors, and a sloppy paint job.

The staff at Nippers seemed tired, like the building, and the blaring loud music did not help. The rum drink was a disappointment. We didn’t even try to order food.

In stark contrast, Grabbers was immaculate. To be fair, the site was completely destroyed by the hurricane. Not a single tree was left standing.

With a clean slate, they chose to build back better. Now, from the docks to the picnic benches – everything looked strong, built to last.

Another major difference, the staff at Grabbers were friendly and attentive. The logo says it all!

Grabbers new logo

We went to Grabbers twice to enjoy the mix of reggae and peaceful island vibe. The food was great. BONUS: Floating rings, reminiscent of a certain Miami Vice experience in Antigua – but this time no drinks were spilled!

Grabbers was restored to maximize its natural beauty.

Cleverly, loyal patrons supported the rebuild of Grabbers At Sunset by adopting (sponsoring) Palm Trees! The campaign worked – the restaurant is now surrounded by beautiful trees. Additional donations are encouraged.

https://grabbersatsunset.com/adopt-a-palm-tree/

MEMORABLE MEALS

Back to Rick’s memory issues – perhaps it was just too much rum in the Bahama sun. No worries, the meals on our boat(s) remain unforgettable!

Chef Rick and Chef Gail prepare a tri-tip dinner on Tonto’s Reward

FRESH CONCH

We had NO idea how exhilarating it would be to catch our own conch! Thanks to Rick’s persistence – and a handful of YouTube Videos – Rick, David, Gail and Mary found, collected (Mary dove for the first one, then David caught the rest), cleaned, prepared, and consumed 7 fresh conch.

If you follow the Tonto’s Reward blog you will see some action shots from our photo journalist Gail :-)

Chef Gail and Chef Rick prepared Conch Salad

It was a feast!

Milestones and Celebrations: June 23, Michael Gillespie (worth repeating).

Next up: Anchoring Out in the Cays