Yellow as Lemons

Alligator River, North Carolina

While Tonto’s Reward was leapfrogging ahead of us to Burr in Annapolis, we meandered to Alligator River with NP43 owners, Lisa and Greg Palmer.

Lisa from Beach Breeze

NP43, Beach Breeze

Be sure to walk into the marina office/gas station; order the fried chicken early, before the cook goes home!

Coinjock, North Carolina

For the first time, ever, we secured a section of the wall at Coinjock.  The prime rib was exactly as expected – delicious. Because it was Mother’s Day the crowd was overwhelming.

Boaters Tip:  Reservations require a party of 6 or more, so make new friends with the boats tied up on the wall and enjoy.  We recommend the prime rib, just ask for a smaller cut! We will spare you the photo of the consumed cow meat.

Tidewater Marina, Portsmouth, VA

Boaters Tip:  Believe the reviews on DockWa.  The staff at Tidewater Marina is great!  BUT, when you read “the marina is under construction”, it’s more than just a small inconvenience.  If you have a critter you can expect a LONG detour, visualize an obstacle course through a construction zone on floating docks that rock and roll, for fun – add a little pouring rain. Buttercup was not impressed.

For now, Waterside Marina – across the water in Norfolk, VA – is much better.

Portsmouth, VA

When you walk about the historic district of Portsmouth you will find stunning examples of buildings from the 1800’s, rich in character and color. Zoom in to see the Narwhal carving over the grand porch, to the left side of the magnificent entry steps!

Before the civil war, Portsmouth had dreams of becoming one of the largest deep-water ports. So, what happened? 

Are you ready, Commodore Greg

In June of 1855, the Benjamin Franklin – a stunning 183-foot steamship from the West Indies – left St. Thomas enroute to New York. The Franklin unexpectedly detoured toward Portsmouth for repairs when she became so leaky that the passengers (not crew) were desperately working the bilge pumps to keep her afloat. Its boilers were sputtering, and a sailing mast needed reinforcement. The condition of the ship was shocking to the affluent passengers, since she was only 4 years old. Tragically, the shipbuilders cut LOTS of corners in her design and craftsmanship.

Two days after the ship arrived, a body washed up at the fort. Reportedly, “His hands were as yellow as lemons.”

Yellow Fever quickly rampaged Portsmouth and Norfolk, ultimately killing nearly one-third of the population. To read the full article, “The Fever,” Originally Published July 10-23, 2005, click here:  https://www.portsmouthva.gov/513/The-Fever

Thanks to science and effective vaccines, Yellow Fever is now uncommon in the US. However, for International Travelers, it is still a concern. So, how does one get Yellow Fever? It is transmitted to people through the bite of infected mosquitoes, who got it from infected primates (human or animal) and then transmit the virus to other warm-blooded humans or animals.  

Visualize an infected needle that is re-used, over and over again. Each time the mosquito pokes you and sucks out your blood, it left the virus behind.  No wonder Capt. Rick HATES needles!

Here are a few questions you might have pondered about mosquitoes.

NON-READERS, it’s okay if you skip ahead to the next set of photos:

Do all mosquitos suck blood? No, the male is a strict vegetarian. On the other hand, females are like vampires, biting their victim repeatedly.

What is the life span of a mosquito? On average, females live 42-56 days, while males generally live for about 10 days. However, with a steady supply of blood, a female mosquito can live up to 5 months. Found dead on Exhale, without any report of bites, this mosquito was probably a harmless male.

How fast do they multiply? Once full of enough blood (either human or another warm-blooded animal), the mosquito will rest for two to three days before laying her eggs, generally about 100 at a time! Roughly 14 days later, the cycle repeats.

Where do mosquitoes thrive? Just a small amount of water; dog bowls, fountains, tires, barrels, vases and any other container storing water makes for a great “nursery.”  Eggs are very hardy; they stick to the walls of a container like glue and can survive drying out for up to 8 monthseven over the winter.

Stinky Feet attract mosquitoes – that’s also why they often bite your ankles! We have read that mosquitoes hate the smell of lavender, citronella, clove, peppermint, basil, cedarwood, eucalyptus, peppermint, lemongrass and rosemary. 

Boater’s beware: The mosquito’s favorite mode of transit is by boat.  The bigger, the better, preferably with lots of smelly bilge water! Another great reason to regularly check and clean that bilge.

That’s enough about mosquitoes.

Submarine Sighting!

Shortly after we departed Portsmouth we were surprised to see the AIS reporting a submarine, we kept a respectable distance.

Special Message for Beach Breeze: “one ping”

Spring Cove, Maryland

One of our favorite respites, Spring Cove is a great spot for Thai Food.  We have tried two local favorites: one tiny spot is within walking distance of the marina; the second is a short drive over the bridge, to a more spacious location.  Don’t be discouraged by the sad little strip mall near West Marine– the service is delightful, and the meals are delicious. Both Sawatdee Thai Restaurants are the same owner!

Crispy Pork and Thai Noodles
Drunken Noodle with Beef, Capt. Rick’s favorite

Spring Cove is also the home of Zimmerman Marine.  It was nice to see you, Steve!

Annapolis Mooring Field, Maryland

We re-connected with Tonto’s reward in Annapolis, where Buttercup had her very first doggy restaurant experience at the Federal House.   She was very happy with the Sweet Potato Fries; the server disclosed it’s the same fries they serve humans, minus the salt, plus the doggy bowl.  She also whispered “the price is only $3 for the pupsters!”  Generously, Buttercup shared.

A shout out to Tim and June, Subject to Change.  It’s still a fun place to hang out, although we miss Maddie and Maggie.

Buttercup patiently waiting for her fries.

Annapolis Reunion – Iron Bear!!

The best part of Annapolis is connecting with Sandy! Gail and David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward, and Exhale were private guests for her “soft opening” .  Sandy’s new kitchen is FANCY.

Top of the line appliances talk to you! 

Her crab cakes are yum-i-licious as always.  Sandy said “Hello” to Ray and Caryl.

Sandy – we hope you and Iron Bear will join us in Baddeck, Nova Scotia where Alexander Graham Bell adventures await!

Milestones:

May 25 Anniversary: Gail and David Bernstein, 49 years!

Birthday:  mijo, Zach Silverstein, celebrating 42

Next up:  Anchoring out, followed by Delaware City, followed by South Jersey

Unexpected Winners and Losers

Ryan Davidson, PassageMaker; Mary and Rick, M/V Exhale; and
Trevor Brice, President, North Pacific Yachts

2021 People’s Choice Award – Winner, Winner!

North Pacific Yachts won the Passagemaker Ocean Navigator Trophy!  The attendees at the show vote over the course of 4 days, then the winner is announced at the end of the show. Surprised and honored, it was a great way to wrap up the festival.  North Pacific Yachts also won the award back in 2018 with the original Exhale. Thanks to the wonderful team at PassageMaker! Congrats to Exhale and Congrats to Trevor Brice!

Ocean Navigator Trophy:
TrawlerFest 2021 and TrawlerFest 2018

Leaving Baltimore, we slowed as we traversed under the Francis Scott Key bridge. A Star Spangled Banner moment.

Francis Scott Key Bridge, Baltimore, MD.

Solomon’s Island, MD

It was a short visit, back to Spring Cove Marina, departing at sunrise.

Back Creek, 7:25 am

Deltaville, VA – Regatta Point / Doziers

Another short stop in Deltaville, then we were on the road again, early. 

Deltaville, 7:32 am

The journey back to Florida is now the main focus as we begin a series of long days on the water. Thank goodness we have a Sea Keeper.

Warship

The early morning rise meant we encountered a Warship. We also saw a submarine, but did not get a blog-worthy photo.

A Winning Plan

As reported earlier, we prefer the Dismal Swamp route, but the Corp of Engineers had reported numerous massive logs floating down the canal. For the first time, we navigated towards Coinjock Marina – enticed by many well respected reports of award winning prime rib. Capt Rick loves prime rib, preferably an end cut – so we pressed on for 11 hours on the water, salivating at the thought of a delicious meal.

Coinjock Marina, VA – Loser, Loser!

A good plan, gone VERY wrong.  Did you know they have Overflow Parking at Coinjock? There is the east side dock, next to the restaurant, and the west side dock, across the waterway!

There is no polite way to describe how upset we were when the dockmaster directed us to tie up on the west side, AND, there was no staff available to run the boat launch to shuttle us to the infamous restaurant on the east wall.  WHAT???

As we approached the marina we could see long stretches of open space – it seemed there was plenty of room for more boats on the east wall. 

Coinjock Marina East Dock

Perplexed, we radioed back and asked, again, to be placed on the east wall, emphasizing we wanted to dine at the restaurant. Nope, said the Dockmaster, there were more boats on the way, and Exhale was going west.  So much for first come, first served.

It turned out, restaurant access would soon be the least of our complaints, since the entire westside dock should have been condemned, long ago.  Seriously.  NOONE should be allowed, never mind directed, to dock there.

You be the judge for yourself – here are a series of photos to document our stop.

Dangerous Docks on the westside.

There was a swimming pool, adjacent to our tie-up. With Halloween approaching I wondered if this location was ever used in a horror film.

Pool Entry Way
No Glass. No Bottles – Where is the “UNSAFE – NO ENTRY” sign?!

It was shocking that there were no signs warning you to stay off the docks, or stay away from the pool. The dock lights were broken. And there was no water –  on the dock or in the pool. There were LOTS of mosquitoes. We are talking the equivalent of Everglades mosquitoes – all you SFYC members, you know what I mean!

A swimming pool for mosquitoes

A winning moment

To be fair, there was an unexpected “winning” moment. Introducing Lance, the owner of a travel trailer on the westside – adjacent to the dock wall. One of the kitchen staff, it was his day off.

The kindness of strangers.

Lance TRIED to help us secure the lines to the pilings, apologizing that he had zero experience with this dock wall. As he said, “I have NEVER seen a boat here before.” Read that back slowly, NEVER – SEEN – A -BOAT – HERE – BEFORE … He has been living here all summer …

Lance

When Lance heard we wanted prime rib, he generously offered to go across the waterway to the restaurant in his tiny skiff, to retrieve dinner for us. Thanks, Lance.

CoinJock – look at that lovely dock wall!

Eager to continue our journey, we passed by the Restaurant at 6:48 am, frowning. That’s right, the marina is a BIG LOSER in our books.

Belhaven, NC

After 10 hours on the water, we returned to River Forest Marina in Belhaven, where Henry greeted us warmly.  Unfortunately, he also reminded us of our north bound incident – when Jim Merritt (Gypsy) dove into the water to free up a 35-foot stern line that got sucked into the thrusters. Just scroll back in our blog if you want to read the embarrassing story. 

BIG Winner, Winner! 2021 BEST Restaurant

We have been to Belhaven multiple times before, and never managed to dine at Spoon River. Let me just go on record now, this restaurant wins, hands down, the BEST Restaurant on this trip!

Spoon River Decoy Duck

Introducing the Owners, Mark and Teresa.  Mark is a farmer, and he knows fresh ingredients. Teresa is just beautiful, inside and out.

Eclectic mix of wine and bubbly
Decor for Mija. The “wine list” is open for perusal.
The view from our table, a Full House!

The service was impeccable and the food scrumptious. My tuna was exceptional. Rick’s yummy beef tips were fork-a-licious. We highly recommend the stop. Reservations are encouraged. Just text a message, and Teresa will reply :-). Click Here for the website. Oh yes, we will be back.

Sirloin Beef Tips with Mark’s winter garden veggies.

Milestones: Columbus Day – Tuesday, October 12 (celebrated Monday); Birthday – October 14, Bushranger, Mark Rutherford

Next Stop:  Beaufort, NC

Treble in Paradise – see you VERY Soon.