By now, I really expected to see at least one live moose, but nope.
Moose head with feathered friend
On Monday the weather lifted just enough to leave Fisherman’s Harbour. We made a long, long run to Halifax – traveling a total of 92 nautical miles, over 12 SLOW hours.
Red sky morning 5:42 am
As the waves grew higher and the wind got stronger little Buttercup buried her head.
Do you know why ostriches bury their head in the sand? Unlike a frightened puppy who just wants the rolling nightmare to stop, the ostrich is not actually submerging her head out of fear. Myth buster: an ostrich lays her eggs in the sand, like a turtle. Fun fact – on a regular basis the mama ostrich sticks her beak into the sand to rotate the egg(s), perhaps she has an internal “egg timer” that reminds her to warm up the other side. The head burying thing was just a bad wrap.
Arriving in Halifax around 6pm, within easy walking distance we found a delicious meal of Chinese and Szechuan – Great Wall, 1649 Bedford Row, Halifax, NS. Capt Rick said it was one of the best meals so far!
Still on the lookout for a live moose, the local hockey team is called the Mooseheads, this week, in a preseason home game they were royally trounced by the Charlottetown Islanders. 6 to 1. We like Charlottetown, PEI.
Halifax Mooseheads
Holding still for longer than usual, David B rented a car so we could do some touristy stuff.
Cobequid Bay – the Bay of Fundy
Gail B spent some time researching the Tidal Bore at the Bay of Fundy. Reported to be a 17 m change (that’s nearly 56′) we were expecting a dramatic rush of water. In reality, it’s a gradual change without any “waves” to speak of.
Bay of Fundy, dry flatlands, photo by Capt. Rick
Waiting for Godot
This gentlemen amused himself as he said it was “boring” waiting for the tidal bore.
To me it was more like Waiting for Godot. If you can’t recall the play, and you have way too much time on your hands, here’s a link to the wiki page:
and then there was water …
Peggy’s Cove
More touristy stuff included a drive to the picturesque Peggy’s Cove. Boater’s Tip: if you see a tourist bus don’t eat there, drive away from the light house along the freshwater lake, and enjoy a local restaurant.
Peggy’s Cove
The Press Block – Historic Rehab and Renovation. Mixed Use
Halifax is a bustling city, with an appreciation for historic renovations. This set of pics is for Ryan Mendoza, notice how two exterior walls shown in this photo were carefully preserved. The Press Block will soon be a mixed-use development, with retail on the ground floor. The top floors will be high-end apartments, with spectacular views.
Following up on the comical responses from our Commodores, what is a Bluenose? More than a person from Nova Scotia, Wiktionary definitions include a variety of potato grown in Nova Scotia, naval slang: a person who has crossed the Arctic Circle; and an Australian definition: an Antarctic butterfish! Blue nose was also a fishing and racing schooner, built in 1921 in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia.
Special Guests on Board:
Hello to Jim and Susan Merritt – so happy to boat with you in Canada, again!
Next up: We are headed to Lunenburg. So far, Nova Scotia continues to exceed all expectations!
See you VERY soon Caryl and Sideways.
Celebrating a Legend – A deep bow of respect for the passing of Bob Barker, age 99. The beloved host of “The Price is Right” from 1972 to 2007. Alisha and I went to a live show in her teens. Standing in line from the crack of dawn, it was worth the early rise, Mija.
The 1972 hit by Carly Simon, “You’re So Vain”, is one of my favorites, especially this part of the third verse, “you flew your Leerjet up to Nova Scotia, to see the total eclipse of the sun”. A fan of Simon’s music from a young age, exploring Nova Scotia was very high on my bucket list.
For my niece, Carly. Click this link to see and hear your namesake, Carly Simon performing live! Can’t wait to see you in NYC!
Commodore’s Quiz
Hey Commodores Greg and Gary, what are people who live in Nova Scotia called?
St. Peter’s, NS
The marina is run by very friendly volunteers from the Lion’s Club. As we tied up in the well-maintained marina, we found yet another adorable Rosborough from Florida. Hello to Melissa and Mike Read.
We did have a starry night – but without a camera with a high f/stop, it’s impossible to photograph. With a fun app, introduced by Chris, you can get a sense of how strong the stars were.
Baddeck, Cape Breton Island, NS
This quaint town is peaceful and sweet in the summer. Winter population is less than 1,000. Baddeck is also the summer home of the Grosvenor family, descendants of Alexander Graham Bell.
Perfect time for a dinghy ride
Traveling by water you get a close-up view of the lighthouse.
Inside the Yellow Rectangle with a Nat Geo Legend
Tied up at the Baddeck city dock, we received a warm welcome from several members of Sandy Grosvenor’s family. Say hello to Graham Grosvenor and his legendary father, Gilbert “Gil” Grosvenor.
Graham and Gil Grosvenor on board Exhale
Thank you, Gil and Graham, we are eating your lobsters tonight!!
Born in 1931, at 92, Gil Grosvenor is spunky and witty. Gil is the great-grandson of Alexander Graham Bell.
Alexander and Mabel Bell made Baddeck their summer home beginning in 1885. Mabel, who was 10 years younger than Alexander, had a fabulous sense of humor, as noted in one of her letters found in the Alexander Graham Bell museum:
“… it was impossible to see your stars last night. I am sorry because I wanted to see them because you were so anxious that I should, and because now we shall have to sit up again, and Oh dear it is so hard to care two pence for anything in heaven above or the earth beneath at four o’clock in the morning. “
Stock Photo: Alexander Graham Bell Museum
The stories of Grosvenor and National Geographic
The National Geographic magazine dates back to 1888. That’s 135 years! Without a doubt, the exquisite photojournalism inspires humans, young and old, to explore our earth.
For me, the extraordinary stories found in National Geographic sparked awareness of, and appreciation for, our fragile world. Growing up in a rural Alaskan setting, I was an avid reader. My love of traveling was directly influenced by the glossy photos and in-depth stories. Passing on the tradition a few years ago, our teenage grandson Leo is now enjoying the remarkable magazine.
Alexander Graham Bell was one of the original founders of the National Geographic Society. The first full-time editor of the National Geographic magazine was Bell’s son-in law, Gil’s grandfather, Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor (1899–1954), followed by Gil’s father – Melville Bell Grosvenor (1957–67). Our visitor, Gilbert Melville Grosvenor, was the third-generation editor (1970–80), later taking over as president of the National Geographic Society (1980–96).
Our friend Sandy is the great-great-granddaughter of Alexander Graham Bell (her father was Gil Grosvenor’s brother).
About a year ago Gil authored a book that you should definitely order (that is unless someone special already bought it for you, Sideways, just saying).
Click here to order this book on Amazon! A Man of the World: My Life at National Geographic. This description is from the Amazon website, “filled with pirates, royalty, treasures, frostbite, shipwrecks, impenetrable jungles, hidden tombs and ancient temples.”
Gil told us he wanted to title the book “Inside the Yellow Rectangle.”
Changing with the times, National Geographic has fully embraced the use of social media platforms. Currently, its Instagram Page has 282 million followers, reportedly the most of any account not belonging to a celebrity. As more and more online followers elected to “Experience the world through the eyes of National Geographic photographers” in 2022 circulation of the printed magazine dropped to roughly 1.8 million. By comparison, readership was around 12 million in the late 1980s.
Now owned by Disney, I was saddened to read in the Washington Post, “as of June 2023 the magazine laid off all of its staff writers, shifting to an entirely freelance-based writing model. Beginning in 2024 it would no longer offer newsstand purchases.” Perhaps a more positive perspective, the shift away from “news that is fit to print” is good for the trees.
More Grosvenor Family members!
Gail Bernstein and Sara Grosvenor
Thank you to Sara, who went out of her way to say hello!
Finally, a BIG thank you to Sandy, the queen of crab cakes, for sending us to Baddeck. Say hello to Ironbear and Grogu, continuing the Grosvenor family tradition, they are world travelers, currently in the Netherlands!
Today, Sandy is busy as an International Judge at The Hague, and the World Sailing World Championships. That’s not a typo by the way. Here’s the schedule.
Pawel Tarnowski iQFOil medal series
St. Peter’s, NS again
We circled back to St. Peter’s for one night. Paul and Donna, this time we got to dine at the Bras d’Or Inn, where we finally learned the meaning of Bras d’Or.
No Commodore, it’s not a lady’s garment, the translation is arms of gold. And the food was fantastic.
Fishermans Harbour, Guysborough County
Today we are weathered in at Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s a well-protected little cove.
Craig Adford, what do you do when you can’t travel on the waters? Fish, of course!
London. Age 8! Great fisher woman
A fish for Craig
Dinner on board Tonto’s Reward – A question for #8
While Gail B was making another wonderful dinner, she noticed the spice you introduced, #8,Slap Ya Mama, is labeled kosher. Intrigued by the kosher-ness, here is Gail’s question for #8, “if you sprinkle a kosher spice on your food, does it make the food kosher?”
For the tribe, what do you think?
Wondering where we are? Here’s the exact coordinates!
Trivia answer for the Commodores
People who live in Nova Scotia are called “Nova Scotians”. It’s good to have an easy quiz once in a while. There are over 900,000 of them; over 400,000 of whom live in Halifax.
Celebrating Milestones
Happy Birthday Alisha, from Buttercup!
Anniversary: August 19, Danielle and Sandra; August 20, Ann and Howard celebrating 45 years;
More Birthdays: August 21, Tom Turke; August 23, Matt Jackson.
Up Next: When the weather clears, we are headed to Halifax. Meanwhile, Nova Scotia has exceeded all expectations! Jim and Susan, we can’t wait to see you!
Old Farmer’s Almanac (that’s the Greatest of All Time (G.O.A.T.) resource) reported the full Sturgeon Moon would reach its peak on Tuesday, August 1, 2023, followed by a full Blue Moon on Wednesday, August 30, 2023—the closest supermoon of the year.
Moonlight over Gaspe fishing fleet.
Why is it called a sturgeon moon? The almanac chimed in again, “Giant sturgeon of the Great Lakes and Lake Champlain were most readily caught during this part of summer.”
Sturgeon – the Dinosaur of the Great Lakes
Referred to as living fossils, these prehistoric-looking fish have been traced back 136 million years.
Credit: Tennessee Aquarium.
Sturgeon means “the stirrer,” the fish stirs up the mud and silt on river and lake bottoms. Pointed snout and whisker-like tactile organs near the mouth. Today, there are about 29 species worldwide, including the lake sturgeon found in the Great Lakes.
Stock Photo, Werk and Snells tag and release record sturgeon
Weird trivia: Spawning Cycles – female sturgeon start reproducing around 20 years of age, but they only produce eggs every 4 years. However, the ladies have been known to live up to 150 years! As a comparison, most Pacific salmon live 4 or 5 years, on average – and they only lay one batch of eggs, dying a few weeks after spawning, hence the AK Humpy’s t-shirt “Spawn ‘til you Die.”
I’ll do the math for you. 150 years minus 20 = maximum 130 reproductive years (you are right, at some point the mammoth mama fish will demand a rest, but it’s just a math exercise). Divide 130 by 4 you get up to 32.5 egg laying events. And we thought the Montreal Catholics were prolific! No wonder the sturgeon has lived so long, perhaps that is the ultimate Revenge of the Cradle.
Sturgeon have also been compared to zombies, because they’re never quite dead. They keep returning. At this point, I feel compelled to share the song stuck in my head. Thanks, Madonna and Weird Al, here’s a link to the 1985 hit, “Like a Surgeon”
Gaspe – Story Rocks
Slow cruising offers the chance to absorb and analyze your scenery. For me, the rock cliffs can be like cloud formations.
Do you see multiple faces in the rocks?
Historic Gaspe
Within a short walk from the marina we found an array of cozy restaurants – the smile on our server’s face was indicative of the warm and friendly reception we found in this adorable town. This cool t-shirt is for Tony.
Where there is wind, there are sailing schools! Sailing, take me away …
A unique set up, the marina has a miniature artist enclave located on the board walk. Meet Conrad Legere, local artist.
Inspired by the fishing boats in the harbor, this little treasure is now on board Exhale.
Sunset over Caraquet
Sunset fishing
Possibly my favorite photo, local fishermen evoked a moment of serenity and happiness.
Bay du Vin Island, anchored out.
The serenity of anchoring out.
Exhale at anchor
Followed by a 5:38 am wake up call. Oh how I hate early morning departures.
Wake Up bugle call at 0538 hours.
Notice that red sky – it should have been a warning to all. The seas got choppy, with another puke fest for the pupster and first mate. Thankfully there was only one irreparable tragedy.
Shediac
Train station art, zoom in, Mija, it’s a statue painting the exquisite mural!
Summerside
We were shoe-horned into a cozy side tie, thanks to the navigating skills of both Capt. Rick and Capt. Gail (yes, she docks Tonto!), there was room to spare.
It reminded me of Mija’s ability to parallel park in hilly SF in a certain red Honda civic, under manual power!
Charlottetown, PEI – Mussel Mania
Sweet Molly Malone … crying Cockles and Mussels, alive alive ‘o!, singer, Sinead O’Connor. Alisha, this YouTube Irish Ballad will give you sweet shivers!!
Thank you for listening.
Charlottetown, PEI
Our self-appointed ambassadors, Paul and Donna, met us in Charlottetown.
Really fresh mussels are best served with toasted bread and a gentle sauce. And best eaten with good friends so you can share the yummy-ness. While in PEI, we ordered them every chance we got.
Donna Oates and Gail Bernstein enjoying FRESH mussels.
Charlottetown Yacht Club
Boater’s Tip: The reviews on Active Captain are outdated. We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at CYC. Reid, the new dockmaster, has a friendly crew that takes GREAT care of you and your boat. The restaurant above the marina office is fabulous! Overall great service and delicious food.
Charlottetown Wednesday night sailing Regatta
Kensington
The rain and wind kept us in Charlottetown longer than expected – giving us the opportunity to visit a VERY special place – thanks, David B for securing a rental car.
Repurposed rain boots, for Ashley
Anne of Green Gables Museum, Kensington, PEI
Did you read “Anne of Avalon”, or “Anne of Green Gables” by Lucy Maud Montgomery? Did you see the movie (there were several)? Catch the musical “Anne & Gilbert” on stage in Canada, Europe or Japan? Or did you watch the Netflix series “Anne with an E”?
If not, here are the cliff notes: Published in 1908 (YEP – that’s 115 years ago) by a Canadian author from PEI, it’s the endearing story of a precocious red-haired 11-year-old orphan sent to a farm in PEI – to the disappointment of two aging siblings who intended to adopt a boy to tend to the strenuous chores.
Built in 1872 – a home where the author and her Aunt Annie and Uncle John once lived – the tiny museum is a freaking cash cow, with a steady stream of visitors, and wedding events.
This organ is still in use!
The heart-warming story has been translated into 36 languages and sold more than 50 million copies. Now that’s a strong marketing team!
Translations Russian, Polish, Slovakian, Japanese, Korean, Hungarian, and Hebrew.
Kensington Station, PEI
This is for all the folks familiar with the northern CA community with the same name.
Victoria – lighthouse!
The island drive took us to Victoria, another lovely little town.
Have you noticed the influence of the crown on the town names in Canada?
In PEI you find Alberton, Charlottetown, Kensington, Kingston, Montague, Wellington, Victoria, York – just to name a few. English named places in Nova Scotia include Liverpool, Manchester, Oxford, Windsor, Halifax and many, many more! Here’s a fun list from Wikipedia.
Thank you Ambassadors, Paul and Donna
A special thanks to these amazing new friends from Ottawa, who made our French speaking experience so smooth, they also introduced us to some yummy wines along the way. We can’t wait for you to get your new Palm Beach! Meanwhile, you have an open invitation to stay on Exhale, if that’s acceptable.
Donna Oates and Paul Belisle
Hey Tumbleweed – we know what you mean about time slipping away! This post covers two weeks of travel!!
A personal note to the duck people, good to know it’s all in a row. Impressive that the ultra-boring sea town of Crisfield found a way to attract a few visitors.
Celebrating Milestones: Birthdays: August 10, David Hendry; August 11, grand-nephew Romeo turned 10! Anniversary: August 12, 2023, Mike and Sue Gillespie
Next Up – Celebrating Carly Simon in Nova Scotia! Although the total eclipse happened earlier in the year, we ARE living the dream.
Exhale on the Water 