The River of the Fox

revised July 31, 2023.

Baie des’ Ha! Ha! Saguenay

Originally called in French the “Grande Anse”, then the “Grande Baie” the resplendent small port made us feel like we just stepped onto a movie set.

Holland America cruise lines started the lovely development back in 2009, assembling an attractive port terminal, information center and tour bus depot.

Within close walking distance is a state-of-the-art pavilion. Perfect for line dancing to country music (in French), the spectator area consists of built-in stair-stepped seating. Two very busy local restaurants (not shown) overlook the energized gathering space.

Now that was fun!

Just one block from the port terminal (within sight) you find photo worthy residential areas. BUT walk one more block and you might feel like you just stepped beyond the lens of the movie camera. Forget finding an ATM, or any form of shopping. Art galleries, boutiques and eateries are notably absent, eliminating the prospects for entrepreneurs.

The shortage of amenities was perplexing – given the expensive looking structures found at the port – until we learned the cruisers are offered one of two options: 1) behold the countryside by bus, or 2) view the fjords on a zodiac boat.

The dancers we saw earlier, they began their festivities well AFTER the cruise ship departed. Concluding the port name Bay of Ha! Ha! is ironic, especially since “HA” is the acronym for Holland America, probably not a coincidence.

Tadoussac

Capt. Rick says this is one of his favorite new spots in Quebec Province, thus far.  Yes, we went there twice, both before and after Saguenay.

Funny signs:  Don’t walk on the wall.

For John:  Last Pub for 240 km, that reminds us of Arkansas!

Le Gibard, a notably pink structure, has an eclectic feel, and it serves a delicious pizza.

Bear pic for Bert and EJ

Ste-Anne-des-Monts

When you name your town after a Saint, it is appropriate to have the most prominent building be a breathtaking cathedral with the same name.

Thanks, Paul for arranging the private marina!

Tonto’s Reward and Exhale, Ste Anne

Drapeau Blanc, Ma Statue de la Liberte, 2008

A phallic collection of driftwood or just the makings of a gigantic bon fire? You decide.

Sunrise departure at 5:33 am

Although I am NOT a morning person, I do love a gorgeous sunrise. For Dave Lubs.

Riviere du Renard

Again, assisted by Paul, we stayed at a well-protected marina as the wind continued to gain in strength. Reminiscent of Homer, AK, we were surrounded by commercial fishing boats.

A Gargantuan Travel Lift

Several years ago, we told the story of our search for a boat yard with a travel lift large enough to hoist Exhale, to repair a busted prop; Capt. Rick says fully loaded she weighs roughly 60,000 pounds (30 tons). Followers of Tonto’s Reward also know about her roundabout route mid-June to Sodus Point, NY; a marina that could lift her beefy mass – weighing in between 44 and 53 tons, depending on her load of fuel, water, and ships stores (including the liquor cabinet).

The travel lift at Marinard is designed to pick up hefty fishing boats, weighing up to 300 tons (imagine 10 Exhales)!

Heave Ho, Bessy! Breaking a Record

With a capacity of 1,120-tons, Bessy broke the record in 2019, reigning as the strongest hoist in the world. Wondering where she is located? Her name is a solid clue. Heather and mOrk know, the BSE Maritime Solutions-Cairns Slipway shipyard is in Cairns, Australia. 

Stock Photo, Bessy

An International Competition

Okay followers (especially Commodore Greg and Commodore Gary), do you know the size and location of the world’s largest mobile lift that dethroned Madame Bessy in 2021?  It’s okay if you scroll to the end of this post if you are overly curious. 

Frontibus, a microbrasserie

Riviere du Renard has one restaurant close to the marina.  Fortunately, it is very good! Dominated by images of a red fox, we surmised the translation of Frontibus would be fur-related, but both iTranslate and David B’s Google translator reported the English translation is simply “Frontibus.”

Thinking the apps were flawed, we queried the friendly wait staff, who happily explained Frontibus was a meaningless word (correction provided by David B: the name frontibus is taken from a French drinking song, conjured up by a folk singer, the lyrics include “au frontibus, au nasibus, au mentibus, au ventribus and au sexibus”).

That reminds me of a vanity plate that is tough to decipher, if you are thinking about creating a special plate, here’s a fun link: https://licenseplategame.com/generator/ 

For example, BTERCUP = Buttercup, and 2N2RWRD = Tonto Reward

The server at Frontibus did shed some light on the significance of the ever-present fox images. This red-hatted fox is for Tony.

Still Reading? Riviere du Renard means River of the Fox, Voila! For Ray, we found a delicious French micro beer, Rousse [translation red, of course]!

Buttercup

Buttercup was more than happy to hold still for an extra day while the wind dies down.

The world’s largest Marine Travel Lift

Here we go. In 2021, the record was broken with the launch of a 1,500-ton mobile lift – now the largest of its kind in the world. The $6.5 million mega-yacht lift can accommodate power and sail vessels measuring up to 250 feet in length. Dimensions of the mammoth lift? 85 feet tall, 73 feet wide and 105 feet long! That’s substantial enough to pick up superyachts, commercial vessels and naval craft. 

Manufactured in northern Italy, where is this custom-built hoist now, Commodores? Drum roll please … Derecktor Shipyard, Port of Ft. Pierce, Florida.

Here she is: 

Stock Photo

Its recent lift of M/Y Coral Ocean, a 240-foot (73m) Lürssen weighing in at almost 1,300 tons, makes it the largest yacht hauled using strap lift technology, anywhere in the world. That is until a bigger one is built, let the universal competition continue!

IN PASSING

ADVISORY: The following tribute includes personal commentary from this blogger that may be controversial and/or inappropriate for children.

Saddened by the news of Sinead O’Connor, both my daughter and I were big fans.

Sinead O’Connor, SNL stock photo October 1992

In 2017, Alisha and her cousin Suzanne (both born in AK) battled cancer (correction: Suzanne was diagnosed with Hodgkin lymphoma, Alisha was diagnosed with a rare form of aggressive breast cancer), causing them to shave their heads.

Suzanne Hildebrand, Nov 2017

My daughter, Alisha, remains proud of her resemblance to Sinead, which she embraced with great strength as Mija fought, and won, her battle with Cancer. 

Alisha Silverstein, December 2017

In honor of O’Connor here’s an excerpt from The Independent (click to read the full October 2022 article, published after Sinead released her 2021 memoir).

Her green eyes gleaming with determination, Sinéad O’Connor stares into the cameras at the Saturday Night Live studio . . .  and holds a photograph in front of her face. The picture is of a Brazilian street child shot dead by police death squads. It’s 3 October 1992 and O’Connor is rehearsing her cover of Bob Marley’s “War” for her performance on SNL that night. The child’s photo is a calculated distraction. For her real appearance, she’ll proffer another image entirely. And the response will be very different.

“I sing ‘War’ a cappella. No one suspects a thing,” O’Connor recalled in her 2021 memoir, Rememberings. “But at the end, I don’t hold up the child’s picture. I hold up John Paul II’s photo and then rip it into pieces. I yell, “Fight the real enemy!’” Her words hung in the air as she blew out the candles set on a table to one side. Darkness descended, in more ways than one.

In this blogger’s opinion, Sinead was a fearless, outspoken woman. I saw that 1992 SNL episode when it first aired. There was total silence as she walked off the stage. It was jaw-dropping.

This week I read about the story behind that defining moment. Sinead’s mother died in a car accident in 1985, when she was 18. Tragically, for most of her life Sinead was badly abused, physically and emotionally, by her alcoholic mother.

The photo of the Pope came from the wall of Marie O’Connor’s home in Dublin, one of the only things Sinead kept from her childhood home. Sinead hid the photo until the last moment of her a capella performance. Tightly focused on the cameraman (who had been told to zoom in during the rehearsal), Sinead dramatically tore up the Pope’s image; it was a VERY personal demonstration.

In my opinion, Sinead was a change maker, a Haas (right, Mija!). She demanded awareness of the evil inflicted upon the innocent, by ministers sheltered within the Catholic Church. Nearly 10 years later, the Pope formally apologized to the world: On 20 November 2001, from a laptop in the Vatican, Pope John Paul II sent his first e-mail apologizing for “sexual abuse committed by Roman Catholic clergy.”

Rest in Peace Sinead, gone too soon.

Celebrating Milestones – July 31, Ann Freedman; August 3, Andrea and Carly, August 4, Weston Wayne Sumpter Straley turns 10!; and August 6, Morgan Wasmuth turns 6!

Next Up – Gaspe

Quebec City, Magnifique

If you like Montreal, you will LOVE Quebec City.  Heather, you are right, this city is magnificent!

We recommend the 2+ hour historic walking tour of Old Quebec. Starting in the Upper Town district, the guided walk is gentle, mostly downhill. Alas, for us, getting to the starting point was grueling since we started at sea level and somebody in the group with bionic hips opted, we should all take the Escalier Casse-Cou (known as the “breakneck” 398-steps), with no leisurely time to enjoy the view.  Thanks, Claude and JoAnn for making the trek!

Stock Photo

With even more stair-climbing and general touring throughout the day, Capt. Rick noted we well exceeded the recommended 10,000 steps for the day.

Samuel de Champlain

The Founder of Quebec City, our tour guide referred to the historic statute as “the man who wasn’t the man”. 

Apparently, the likeness of Champlain, depicted consistently around the globe, was just an artistic representation; similar to the renderings of a certain religious dude, who was also never photographed.

Now for a few Places of note

Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac

Hotel Fairmont, known to have hosted meetings of FDR and Churchill during the WWII Quebec Conferences in 1943 and 1944. Although built to look like a castle, it has always been a hotel.

Majestic exterior
Magnificent inside

Inside the fairy tale hotel we found a boutique, with a VERY sweet dress – destined to a special person with a birthday in August …

Chapelle des Ursulines – Quebec City Monastery

Located in the heart of the Old City, the Monastery was founded in 1639; it is the oldest institution of learning for women in North America.

The chapel was originally finished in 1722, revitalized in 1902.

The iron gate – separating the main church from the chapel – serves to separate the cloistered nuns from the populace.  Originally, heavy drapes kept the nuns from view, reformed over time to allow them to be seen, but still separated.

Although the school continues to thrive, in September of 2018, after 379 years, the last remaining Ursuline Nuns left the monastery.  With less than 50 remaining in Quebec, it was reported that the oldest nun was 102, while the average age was 88!

Murals!

Street Art in action.

Music in the Street for Mom

Fun parking spot

Cap-a-l’Aigle – Cape Eagle

Mother Nature – a beautiful garden

Mother Nature

For John

Notre-Dame-des-Sept-Douleurs

Another photogenic lighthouse.

Baie de Tadoussac – Whale Watching

Take the time to do a little research to find the whale tour that fits your style.  Croisieres AML offers several.  For example, riding on a Zodiac in foul weather gear (provided) offers an experience that is up close and personal, but plan to get cold and wet. An enclosed pontoon boat also gets close to the marine life – with some protection from the elements; while a 3-hour tour on a multi-level cruiser offers covered viewing decks with a beverage/snack center, BUT you won’t get an up-close photo, unless you have a mega zoom lens. 

The scenery was spectacular.

Photo by Rick

Yes, we saw whales, but we have no proof.  So, here’s a lovely replica of a white Beluga, with fireweed, from the Marine Mammal Interpretation Centre.

A special hello to Ray and Caryl – from Salty Paws

A magnificent sunset for Dave and Holly Lubs

Repeating last week’s Boater’s Tip:  When a little bit of poorly spoken French is not enough, just ask a friendly Canadian to interpret, especially when the taxi dispatcher has no idea where you are …  But I will let Tonto’s Reward tell that story in Gail’s next blog entry. Stay Tuned!

For those of you who read Tonto’s Blog, you already know about the unexpected encounter at the Black Pepper! 

For the rest of you, especially Trevor, here’s the gist. As we were finishing our exquisite meal in Trois Rivieres at the Poivre Noir (Black Pepper), Gail B., David B., Rick and I were approached by a dapper gentleman who introduced himself as “the former Prime Minister, Jean Chretien”. He said he was curious, where was David from? When David said “Florida, but my accent is from Kentucky” the friendly chap smiled as he explained he was the PM while both President Clinton and President Bush were in office {the 20th Prime Minister served from Nov 1993 – Dec 2003}.

David Bernstein and Jean Chretien

When his lady friend returned to the PMs table [I believe it was Senator Diane Bellemare], the former PM introduced David as “an American from Tennessee who is visiting on his boat”, close enough. 

Circling back to our boater’s tip.

Unable to convey our pickup location to the French speaking taxi dispatcher, I saw the PM approaching us – where his chauffeur was patiently awaiting. Boldly approaching him one last time I requested his help. Handing him David’s cell phone, after an animated chat in French he secured us a taxi! Voila.

Before parting, as he climbed into a non-descript black minivan, the former PM’s quipped – “You can see, unlike my friend Bill Clinton, who had 6 bodyguards while visiting me in Canada, I am my own bodyguard.”  A rather tall [1.83 m] and imposing figure, at age 89 the Right Honorable Jean Chretien was a notable, friendly Canadian.

P.S. It was easy to confirm the identity of the remarkable stranger, and even easier to prove he is still a close friend to Bill Clinton. 

P.P.S. Perhaps the accents from Kentucky, Tennessee, and Arkansas sound similar, to some. Just Kidding, – for our K. T. and A. originals David B, Dale, Ann, Donna W, Doug B and my cousin John G.

Celebrating Milestones

July 28, birthday Diana Giraldo, feliz cumpleanos,

July 31, Ann Freedman

for Dave and Holly

Next Up:  Bay d’ Ha Ha, or something like that – Saguenay