Beaufort SC – Exhale on the Water

Just a sweet old song

Oyster Bay Yacht Club, Fernandina Beach, Florida

We stopped at our final Florida Council Club – located at the northern tip of Oyster Bay Harbor, in north east Florida – Oyster Bay (OB) Yacht Club. True to their name, we confirmed OB serves Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc.

But no, Gail, we did not get to enjoy one of our favorite white wines since the yacht club was closed to visitors and members – reserved for a wedding. A big thanks to OB club members from M/V BadLad, Kemper and Anne Harr, who gave us a personal tour of the community. Congrats on your new Sabre!

At some point, the wedding party came to us! This photo is for Phil, our favorite wedding crasher.

Georgia on my mind

We said goodbye to Florida, for the summer, followed by a sweet hello to Georgia. This is for Mark C, a perfect fit for his smooth voice. Go ahead, sing along.

Ray Charles – Georgia on my mind.

Jekyll Island, GA

Some of our boater friends (DB) prefer to blast past GA. Not us. We enjoy the slow journey of the ICW, preferring to stop along the way. Just look at that smooth water! Full disclosure, this Jekyll Island photo was taken shortly after a formidable thunder and lighting storm.

Boater’s Tip: Zachry’s Riverhouse is found just above the marina, tucked between the trees. The food is good, and the beer is cold.

Zachry’s taxidermied critters are often dressed for the season. Not entirely sure what they are celebrating this time …

Driftwood Beach, Jekyll Island

At the end of the island we discovered ghost crabs. This little character was roughly 3 inches in total.

The ghost crab has phantom-like moves. Their pale coloration, which matches the sand, makes them difficult to spot, and they can quickly disappear into their burrows at the slightest disturbance, capable of moving at speeds up to 10 mph – that’s faster than Exhale at her best speed!

Thanks to Samantha (boss lady at Jekyll) we took the courtesy car to Driftwood Beach, aka the boneyard. Notice the massive trees compared to Capt. Rick, who is slowly walking by!

The beach’s apocalyptic landscape made it a unique filming location for the long running (2010-2022) TV show “The Walking Dead”, and it was the backdrop for a plethora of movies, like “The Tomorrow War” 2021 with Chris Pratt, “X-Men:First Class” 2011, “Red One” (2024), and more.

Here’s a shimmering moon photo for Dave Lubs from my new iPhone.

Brunswick, Golden Isles, GA

The marina was very quiet. Just a short run from Jekyll to Brunswick, time for a fun boat name. Embracing Diversity with our critter lovers, this is for Ynot!!

Boater’s Tip, when you check in tell the dockmaster the number of passengers on board to get a $5 coupon per person for the adorable Coastal Coffee shoppe, where they serve a delicious chicken salad croissant sandwich.

Kilkenny, GA

This is for Tracy Harris, and Lola, who have a love hate relationship with this stop. A few sections of the dock have recently been repaired, but it’s still a wobbly walk from our boat to the shore.

A little history: Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Kilkenny plantation dates back to 1733; once known for summer fishing vacations, the property changed hands many times. The main house is still standing! Overlooking the river, she’s located directly above the marina.

The magnificent structure was neglected for decades, until Henry Ford acquired it in 1930 – properly restoring it as a private home. Click here if you want to learn more. No worry, speed readers – it’s okay to skip the Wikipedia history lesson and just enjoy the photos.

Isle of Hope, Savannah, GA

Traveling north to Savannah, the sky is befitting at the Isle of Hope. Sit back, relax, enjoy the beauty of Georgia.

Boaters Tip: This family run marina provides two courtesy cars – making it easy to explore and provision. Enjoy the food at several nearby restaurants, or drive to the magic of Savannah!

These whimsical critters can be found at at the Driftaway Cafe

Here’s a garden sloth for Alisha,

and some googly eyes for my birthday boy, Zach Silverstein.

Hello Beaufort, SC!

Beaufort (with a view) is a preferred stop! Boaters – tie up securely with sturdy lines, the marina gets a little rough. Kudos to Capt Rick and Tom Matovich who rescued a certain boat that tried to escape.

Within easy walking distance from the Safe Harbor marina is a quaint town. With a lovely array of boutiques, there are numerous retail options on Bay Street – and on the various side streets – including a great spot for a relaxing pedicure :-) Nail Bar on Bay. Walk ins accepted, or book on line.

Old Bull Tavern, Beaufort, SC

And, Beaufort is home to Capt Rick’s all-time favorite restaurant along the ICW. Located at 205 West St, Old Bull Tavern is a must!

Boater’s Tip, plan ahead (at least one week), Click here – and make your reservations on line, request either the Middle Room or the Pizza Oven Room, and definitely order an Old Fashioned!

We were thrilled to see Ashley Moore again, our fav – thanks for remembering us – you look amazing! Can’t believe your little one is approaching 5. Congrats.

On the topic of amazing, introducing McDreamy eyes Derek (for all of you Grey’s Anatomy fans), co-owner and host extraordinaire; thanks for the amazing strawberry corn cake!

Who else has been there: definitely Jeff and Dr. Patty North, Trevor, Tim and Tracy Harris, and Gail and David Bernstein; any others?

We left the dock today at 06:15, as the sun was gently rising. Unexpected bonus for the early start time – on the VHF radio we heard a distinguished, familiar voice – shout out to Lorrie and Rodger Swink on Reality, ships passing at first light!

Next Stop: Charleston, SC

Happy Memorial Day everyone. A sad thank you to all those military men and women who we have lost. Here’s a little photo of my father, who served during WWII.

Celebrating Milestones:

Anniversaries – May 25, Gail & David; May 26, Jeff & Dr. Patty North; May 27, Carly & Brandon

Birthdays – May 25, Zach Silverstein; May 28, Scott Ginsburg; Brennyn; May 29 Doug Belknap; and May 31, Pamela Ledward.

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Filling in the Gaps

As noted in our last post, before our side trip to Austin, Exhale covered a LOT of lovely water that we have not reported on yet – starting after South Port (NC, thanks David) then pausing at the Isle of Hope, GA.

So grab a cup of coffee or a nice beverage and let’s fill in the gaps. In time, not teeth, although given our location either is possible.

Capt Rick is bundled up for the ride.

Capt Rick and Buttercup, blankets provided by Tonto’s Reward

Little River, South Carolina

There’s something special about a pink house!

It reminds me of “Mr. Pine’s Purple House” by Leonard Kessler. Here we go: “Mr. Pine lived on Vine Street in a little white house. “A white house is fine,” said Mr. Pine, “but there are FIFTY white houses all in a line on Vine Street. How can I tell which house is mine?” Come to think of it, this book might be banned in Florida, since the theme is embracing diversity. So add it to your library! Click Here! A Florida retiree (ironic), Leonardo Pine (Kessler) passed away at the age of 101 in 2022.

Wacca Wache, South Carolina

You are right Tumbleweed, it’s fun to say! It’s like a blend of wack-a-mole and Weeki Wachee Springs in Florida. Boater’s Tip: Fuel up! The price of fuel is low due to a friendly rivalry between Wacca Wache marina and the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club.

This marina has the best shade trees!

Boater’s Tip – the water is a little skinny, but the dock hands are experienced, just go slow.

Georgetown, South Carolina

Georgetown is a walkable town with plenty of small shops and eateries. At dinner I spotted this sign. The mantra is perfect! Life is full of noisy distractions, but if you focus – inhale, then exhale deeply – you can enjoy what is happening in the moment. Be present! (Thanks, MO)

Charleston, South Carolina

The structures in downtown Charleston are stunning.

We introduced the lovely Hotel Bennett heading north.

During a walk about, in front of the hotel Gail and I discovered a line-up of vintage cars. Craig Adford can probably name all of them.

The lead driver from Whip Dash said they were there to pick up a party of 21 southern belles. https://www.whipdash.com/ An elegant way to tour Charleston!

Gail and I wondered if the ladies got to choose the car to ride in, or, if it was going to be the luck of the draw. Do you have a favorite? Perhaps Rolls Royce or Bentley? Gail said “no thanks” to riding in the Mustang. The Chevy Bel Air is for my cousin, John.

Beaufort (sounds like view), South Carolina

With a little extra time to unwind, Gail and I visited our favorite nail salon – Nail Bar on Bay (843) 379-3456. Open 7 days a week, walk ins are welcomed.

Welcome back to Old Bull Tavern! Consistently amazing, our favorite server, Ashley, remembered Rick’s drink and menu choice!

Total YUM!

Consistently the BEST Old Fashioned, ever!

Boater’s Tip: Request a table in the pizza room – it’s a perfect place to watch the magic happen!

Hilton Head, South Carolina

It was splendid to reunite with our sweet friends Jeff and Patty North, M/V Lady North, NP49 euro style.

Clockwise from the top: Capt. Rick, Mary S, Dr. Patty North, David and Gail Bernstein, and Jeff North.

They both looked fabulous. Recently retired, we can see they enjoy life on the water!

Savannah, Georgia; Isle of Hope Marina

Tonto’s Reward and Exhale settled in for a well-deserved break while the humans and one very spoiled puppy went Off to the Races! (see the last post)

Tonto’s Reward, David and Gail Bernstein

Richmond Hill, Georgia; Kilkenny Marina

After we returned from the Formula One races we headed to one of our favorite stops, Kilkenny Marina. It turns out Richmond Hill and our home base in Fort Myers have a very special connection – Henry Ford!

In 1916 Henry and Clara Ford purchased a winter home in Fort Myers, next to Thomas Edison.

Roughly 20 years later Clara determined Fort Myers was “too crowded”. Really? Let’s research that: Wikipedia reports the population was 3,678 in 1920, bursting to an insufferable 9,082 by 1930, okay … Apparently, Clara wanted a more private location, to escape the hustle and bustle. The world’s first billionaire solved that problem for his pretty wife: Ford acquired 85,000 acres in the low country, covering 120 square miles, then he immediately commenced building a new community.

By 1937, Clara was enjoying a 7,000 square foot mansion overlooking the Ogeechee River. Maybe she just wanted a bigger house, with a pool and a massive lawn, who knows.

Known as the Uncommon Friends, Henry Ford, John Burroughs, Harvey Firestone, and Thomas Edison were reported to take fishing trips together on the Ogeechee River.

Now, for a small fortune, you can rent the historic venue for a destination wedding or special event.

Jekyll Island, Georgia

We love this little pub, the staff is super friendly!

and the mascots dress up with the season!

Seeing Double

Welcome to the North Pacific family, Greg and Ellen. Joining us at Jekyll was the newly launched M/V Bertha, another 49 euro style, she’s an Exhale doppelgänger. In the words of Oscar Wilde, “Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery”.

Enjoy your beautiful new home on the water!

Fernandina Beach, Florida

Crossing the invisible state line, we are BACK in Florida. Tom and Faye, M/V Treble in Paradise, you should be here!

Hey David B, did we go on another Bird Walk?

Celebrating Milestones.

October 29, Jo Callaway; October 30, Lana Savona; November 1, Sandy Houlder; November 3, Gail Bernstein; November 5, Cindy Ginsburg

Happy Halloween!

Coming Up: St. Augustine, Florida, Conch House Marina (October 29)

A Battle or a Land Grab?

First, let’s get caught up.

Kilkenny Creek

Golden Ours and Exhale traveled together to a rustic gem. The Kilkenny Marina is one of our favorite spots in Georgia. A few hours (by water) south of Savannah, it’s a quiet little haven, surrounded by magnificent trees. Thanks, Golden Ours, for joining us.

Triple Vision

And then there were three. Hello Chapter Four! NP45, Holly and Dave Lubs are celebrating a full year on the water. We waved hello as we passed by the Isle of Hope in Georgia, another great stop from prior journeys.

Exhale NP49 follows Golden Hours NP45, hello to Chapter Four NP45.

Chapter Four, NP45; owners Dave and Holly Lubs

Hilton Head – Finally reunited with Tonto’s Reward

It was sooo great to finally reconnect with David and Gail. Golden Ours, Exhale, and Tonto’s Reward docked next to each other at Hilton Head. Resort Shopping by the women meant all three men got something new – lucky boys.

Beaufort, South Carolina

This city with a view is pronounced “Biewfurt”. It is absolutely one of our very favorite stops along the east coast of the US, with unique small shops, wonderful restaurants, and a walking trail along the coast that is spectacular. The historic homes are beyond comparison.

Rick’s favorite meal is the lamb shank at Old Bull Tavern in historic downtown Beaufort. Reservations are a must, so plan ahead and don’t miss out!

Tracy Harris, Golden Ours; Mary S, Exhale; and Gail Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward

The Good Life: David Bernstein, Tonto’s Reward; Capt. Rick, and Tim Harris, Golden Ours

Yes, Craig Adford, that’s an old fashioned in Rick’s hands.

Port Royal, South Carolina

Now for the promised history lesson.

The Battle of Port Royal was the largest naval engagement ever fought in American waters.

On November 7, 1861, a Union naval squadron under the command of Flag Officer Samuel F. Dupont sailed into Port Royal Sound and captured Hilton Head Island on the west and Ft. Beauregard on the east side of the sound.

A deeper dive into history makes me wonder why it was called a “battle”- since the sheer numbers would imply it was more of an aggressive invasion, a seizure, or a scandalous land grab of the waterfront property.

Visualize this:

The naval maneuver from Union forces, including Du Pont’s squadron, consisted of seventeen warships, and thirty-three transports, carrying approximately 12,000 soldiers.

In defense, the only Confederate naval presence in the area comprised of a converted river steamer, and three tugs, each armed with two or three guns. Yep, you read that right.

On land, Fort Beauregard was armed with twenty cannon and roughly 640 Confederate soldiers. Across the sound, Fort Walker was armed with twenty-three guns (with limited range), and roughly 1,600 men – mostly plantation farmers with no training.

Thankfully, the battle lasted only 5 hours before the woefully outnumbered Confederate soldiers threw in the towel. Horribly overpowered and outnumbered, it is surprising that the casualties were not greater; the Union squadron casualties counted eight dead and twenty-three wounded. Confederate losses totaled eleven dead and forty-eight wounded.

Today, Port Royal is home to Marine Corps Recruit Depot, Parris Island. If you have time for a tour, it is well worth the visit.

Milestones: Birthday: May 2, Celeste Amish

Next Up: Charleston

Chasing a Squirrel

Maddie loves to go for a walk, especially if she can chase a squirrel. The only thing she loves more is a proper belly rub, on a certain Fleming of course.

Beaufort, NC

Our stop in Beaufort (pronounced “no” in North Carolina) was a great chance to reconnect with fellow Maine Event boaters from Treble in Paradise, NP45.

Hi Tom and Faye – safe travels on your slow journey back to Florida!

Wrightsville Beach, NC / Harbor Island

Kiss Her Too, iii is another beautiful North Pacific 49, hull number 4. Several months ago we saw this boat from a distance, at Spring Cove Marina on Solomon’s Island. What a surprise to find her tied up just a few boats away.

On board are Tony and Judy Kuester and their two dogs. Can you believe she is a 2015 model?! So gorgeous.

Back at the Marina, Maddies was on a quest for cookies, alas, no luck.

We took on fuel at Wacca Wache, a teeny tiny marina on the Wacca Maw River.

Georgetown – Fresh Shrimp

Thanks Gail for the suggestion to buy fresh shrimp in Georgetown. A short walk from the Marina, this place was amazing; the shrimp dinner we made was absolutely delicious.

Breaking News for our Sports Fans

Did you know the rivalry between the Giants and Dodgers began in the late 19th century when both clubs were based in New York City? The Giants played at the Polo Grounds in the borough of Manhattan and the Dodgers played in the borough of Brooklyn.

Ryan Mendoza, Matthew Valdez, and Javier Angulo

So proud to know these men! Friendly rivals reunited at the ball game. Oh yes, the Dodgers got to celebrate the win!! Tony and Taco were dancing in the streets. Sorry MV, it was an amazing game!!

Georgetown

Back to Georgetown – we left BEFORE dawn, surrounded by calm waters.

Engine Room Inspection

Some tasks on board require an extra set of eyes. Thus, Maddie often supervises Capt. Rick’s engine room duties.

Everything seems to be in order, are you coming up soon?

St. John’s Yacht Harbor, John’s Island

Another early morning departure rewarded by a gorgeous sunrise.

Beaufort, SC

We greatly enjoy Beaufort (pronounced with a “view”). It’s a town with great little shops and award winning restaurants. Scroll back in our blog to read about our stop heading north.

Look Craig and Maureen, we got to eat at Old Bull Tavern, at 5:30 pm! Check out this lamb-a-saurus. That’s a happy Capt. Rick.

The city of Beaufort, SC knows how to enjoy life. These popular swings, found on the promenade of the Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park, have a spectacular view. Their slogan is “Swing, Stroll, and Stay a While.”

Sniffing is almost as good as chasing squirrels.

Hilton Head, SC

Bruce Peck, Beverly Abel, Capt. Rick and Mary S. Dinner at Ela’s

Reunited with Sea Trek, we dined at Ela’s. Enjoying a Lemon Drop Martini, continuing a tradition with Bruce Peck.

Celebrating the Norths

Congrats to fellow NorthPacific owners, Dr. Patricia North (recently retired) and P. Jeffrey North, Esq. It was spectacular finally meeting you! Long Cove Club was lovely.

The Norths recently opted to down-size their land base (congrats on the sale of your house) and up-size their water home. Owners of an NP43, they are now busy customizing a new NP49 euro, scheduled to arrive in 2022.

The challenge of selecting a clever name is in progress, contenders include “Just a Splash”, “Copycat”, or “Patty’s Way”. With two gorgeous German Shepherds on board, I am suggesting they call their next boat “Good Shepherds”.

That also reminds me of the 2006 movie “The Good Shepherd” starring Matt Damon and Robert De Nero, with scenes filmed at Yale (for Ryan). Worth watching again.

We look forward to cruising with them in Florida and in the Keys this winter. Thanks for the amazing wine.

For Mija and Ynot

We leave you with a rhetorical question (that’s for Jeff). Did you know that the IATSE strike was averted? Hooray!! With a strike off the table, Taco is extremely relieved Alisha and Tony will not have to cut back on his rations.

Milestones:

Birthdays – Bushranger, Mark Rutherford – the month of celebrating continues! October 14: Linda Matlock; October 15: John Buckendahl, Jr.; October 22, Kelly Thorn-Hiebert

Next Stop: Kilkenny, GA

Creative Exceptions

Kilkenny is timeless, by design. Situated in Richmond Hill, Georgia it was a good reminder to slow down, and not be so stressed.

Marker 107, Kilkenny Creek, GA – May 8, 2021

Thankful for the trees

Spanish Moss, Richmond Hill, GA – May 8, 2021

Kilkenny Creek Marina

The narrow floating docks are wobbly and plagued with intermittent gaps (Maddie refused to walk), but the folks working at the Marina were wonderful.

Thunderbolt, GA

Thunderbolt Marina was a short drive from Savannah. Look at these beauties.

Exhale and Treble in Paradise, Thunderbolt Marina – May 9 & May 10

Hello Savannah, GA. You could spend a full week in Savannah, and barely scratch the surface!

Savannah, GA, Riverwalk District – May 9, 2021

American Prohibition Museum – Did you know the 18th Amendment did not make it illegal to drink alcohol during Prohibition? Instead, it made it illegal to buy or sell; a devastating blow to vendors. Yet, the creative, flexible entrepreneur prevailed. In 1919 a small drugstore, with 20 stores in Chicago, capitalized on a CREATIVE legal EXCEPTION – “prescription” whiskey. In a brilliant partnership with the federal warehouses, more than 8 million gallons of “seized” whiskey was repackaged, and sold by pharmacists nationwide. The drugstore’s name? Walgreens.

The story resembles the early months of the COVID-19 pandemic. In 2020 as bars were forced to shut down – dramatically impacting the spirit distillers – we saw retooling of nationally recognized factories who could rapidly produce – and cleverly brand – hand sanitizers. Most notable was Anheuser-Busch, who brilliantly used alcohol that was already in the distillery.

Nice Try … Then there was Yuengling Ice Cream, made in Pottsville. Can you imagine buying Ice cream from a Beer Manufacturer? It is no surprise, the product failed.

Harbour Town Pier, Hilton Head, SC

Hilton Head is renowned for its golf courses. For me, the most phenomenal, and truly memorable experience was dinner at the Links at Sea Pines.

Beaufort, SC

Hello again to Beverly Abel & Bruce Peck (B & B) from Sea Trek, and sister-in-law Marie. Thanks to Beverly, we offer a way to distinguish Beaufort SC from Beaufort NC. Spelled the same, but pronounced differently. Starting in the south, say “Bew or Biew – fert” which sounds like view or beautiful. This view is officially preserved.

In the north, remember No Bo, or Bo knows diddley. No is also the abbreviation for north. In the north they say bow (like bow and arrow), or Bo-fert. If you want more explanation, check here :-)

While in Beaufort, take a long walk. The historic homes are breathtaking. This one is for my AK family, a very blue house – familiar fantastic color.

Historic Beaufort has lots of restaurants to chose from. My favorite was Lost Local – taco extraordinaire, and unexpected Hockney Magic – for Alisha!

Lost Local

Special Tribute to Aunt Dianne Gill. Born in Hollywood, CA. Mother of 7 (two of my cousins, Frank and Kathryn, born in AK), 20 grandkids, and 29 great grandkids. An incredible legacy from an exceptional woman who was 92 years young. Thanks for your unconditional love.

Milestone: Before we go, Congrats to Danielle and Sandra who closed on their first home, in Cleveland, OH. So very happy for them! Thanks Jamie and David, Uncle Scott and Aunt Cindy for making the move go so smoothly.

Next Stop: Steamboat Landing anchorage, roughly 30 miles south of Charleston Harbor.

Special Shout Out. DougAndDanaAndABoat, looking foward to your NPY4906 reveal. Thinking of a classic Audie Murphy (Jim Harvey) movie …